Golf IV R32 :: Front Swaybar Hitting Axle After Lowering
Mar 27, 2010
I just installed some Neuspeed sport springs with Koni sport shocks on my .:R and it appears like my swaybar is knocking against my front axle on the driver side.
Now, I read somewhere that is not supposed to be possible, but I can see the marks on the axle. Also, the swaybar link looks like it is twisted quite a bit with the new struts. And, when I look at them with the car on the ground, the distance between the swaybar and the axle looks to be at least 2 inches.
Do I need to center the swaybar? Maybe my control arm bushings are worn out really bad? The camber on the front of my car is -1.4 on both sides.
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Since i bagged my car and i didn't bought the swaybar end links to fix it it to my air struts, when i got it installed the swaybar got removed.
Now as my swaybar is off i might upgrade, my question is, Is an h&r front swaybar much better than an OEM one, and if yes should i pick a 26 or 28 mm o e (what's the difference, pipe size?)
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I lowered the car on H&R sport Springs with Koni Yellows. On the front right, the sway bar is rubbing the axle under heavy compression (pot hole, sharp dip, bridge joints, etc) and is rubbing the lower control arm (opposite direction) on the driver's side... I got an alignment when I lowered it and it was "within specs"...
I put on adjustable sway bar end links and lengthened the passenger side 1/4" and shortened the drivers side 3/8". left side is slightly better but right side seems almost worse... all rubbing was minimal (barely through the paint on the cast iron parts and nearly no marks on the axle... both strut bearings are new. is it possible that it could be the alignment? Just seems odd to me that the sway bar end links need to be varied lengths to clear....
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I am replacing the mid and rear (suitcase) mufflers on my daughter's 2001 2.0L Jetta wagon. She is not interested in anything that would be louder than stock. What I am seeing is that the rear axle needs to be dropped to remove / install the rear muffler. Can this be correct? I know I can continue to cut off parts of the old muffler but that does me no good when it comes to install the new unit.
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I'm working on a couple of repairs and have encountered a few questions:
1. Are the bolts supposed to come out of the top of the end link? Mine don't so I don't know if that's the way it is or mine are so far gone that they are frozen in the sleeve. My poly bushing kit does not have any new bolts so I'm hesitant to lay into it with a 10 ton press and ruin the bolts (I don't know how much they are from Ford to buy or if I can even buy them).
2. HPO rail plug. I'm removing my HPX as I'm tired of it leaking (hopefully when my HPOP comes back as a T500 I won't need it anyway). I've seen 33 ft-lbs and 96 ft-lbs. As I go towards the 96 ft-lbs it feels like I'm going to strip the threads out so I backed off and they are at 33 ft-lbs now (I don't need that headache and my wife would go through the roof). I got the ones from Riffraff as I misplaced the ones I took off 8 years ago (go figure). The HPO line connections to the head (or pump for the matter) are 19 ft-lbs. I use Loc-Tite on those but both have an o-ring (which provides most of the seal) so I'm not to keen on gronking the rail plug.
3. I'm also replacing both HPOP gaskets. I know that the HPOP and reservoir mounting bolts are 18 ft-lbs (from Ziggy. in the tech sticky) but is there a spec for the cover bolts too? I know the gasket provides the seal but I'd like to make sure that the force is distributed evenly across the gasket (Sous isn't the only OCD person around).
Hopefully this fixes most to all my oil leaks (still have to tackle the oil cooler). The valley is covered (as well as the front of the reservoir) and there is a lot of weepage on the paper towel test. There are years of buildup everywhere and will take a few tries and several cases of Simple Green to see the metal again.
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My H&R rear sway makes some pretty consistently loud popping sounds when it flexes when it's cold out... like, SCARY cold... below 20 F. I assume it's just the bushings getting all hard and grippy, but it's still disturbing, distracting, embarrassing. Should I worry? And can I do anything about it?
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I installed 2 new axles and replaced the upper motor mounts in my car. Now when I turn to the right the left front tire is running against the coilover and making my car vibrate. I put a 5mm spacer to give it some clearance but it didn't make much of a difference. What could be wrong?
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I have a 2004 GLI that I just completed the slave cylinder on, after i got everything back together my driver side axle is now rubbing really bad on the sway bar where it connects to the endlinks. What could be wrong?
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I was wonder for those of you that have lowered tigs, mainly coilovers, if you have expereince any creaking sounds in the front. I used my OEM sway bar/bushings/end links and I think that could be the issue. For those with coilover have you changed to shortened end links / aftermarket sway bar? My sound is not a constant issue. Mainly first thing in the morning, or if the Tig has been sitting for several hours, backing out of my driveway and pulling off at low speeds. Once I get to normal driving speeds, over 20 mph the sound goes away and doesn't come back unless it's been setting a while or I am backing out sharply and move forward at low speeds. Once back up over 20 mph it's going and I have no sound even at low speeds.
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I put HR lowering springs and I'm getting a bad squeak when the car goes over a speed bump . It's coming from the rubber on the end of the front springs ? Do they make a poly urethane upper mount?
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Car is at the dealership now and they said that the sensor is being stretched out from being too low. I'm only dropped on a h&r sport cup kit, nothing drastic.
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I want to buy some 18' OZ Ultraleggeras but they have a ET45 instead of the recomended 50. Will I have any rubbing issues, especially if I lower it?
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I was thinking of replacing my existing springs with a set of OEM European springs from oempl.us. Once it's lowered, do the headlights aiming need to be adjusted? If so, how do I do that?
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My wife has a 2004 jetta gls 1.8t we just got some stock 18" bbs gli wheels . she wants to lower it some. Not really wanting to spend the money for coil overs... she will never adjust them and shes not racing it... just want it to look better. How much to lower it...
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I haven't lowered my GTI yet but would like to at some point in the semi near future (house comes first), but I want to keep my suspension geometry right when I do it. I like the mostly flush look, but I like to drive my car and don't want to compromise any handling of the car. Unfortunately with lowering the car, the front control arm angles get a bit out of whack and will adversely affect the handling of the car. Is there anything that can be done or any products out there on the market that will bring the front control arms back to a flat or slightly angled down position once lowered?
I know that on the MKIV platform a lot of people would go with a drop spindle, but I haven't found any good aftermarket or reasonable OEM solutions from other cars without having to replace a lot of parts. I seem to remember something about the TTRS knuckle/spindle fitting on the GTI, but it requires quite a bit of part swap and adds up in complexity and cost pretty quickly.
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Yesterday, I installed H&R Sport Springs and then Last night, I notice my HID headlight is dimmed downward to the ground. Do I have to use VAGCOM to make the adjustment?
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Looking to get a set of VWracing springs but wondering if there is a way to pull the front struts without having to pull the axles out?
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So I installed the DG springs today, and it should've been a simple install. Well once all was said and done I took it for a test drive. Every time I go over a bump I hear a loud clunking noise, like somethings loose. What it could be? I'm pretty sure I tightened everything.
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Alright cliff notes are lowered my 2012 GTI on Eibach Pro Kit springs and Koni Yellows (adjustable) as a DIY driveway job and at first were OK, but 2 weeks later are clunking to the point where it sounds like its going to fall on the ground. Any road imperfection makes it clunk (from the front only).
-Clunks all the time, slow, fast, turns, straight, large or small bumps. Doesn't clunk with dips...
-Gets better when its hot outside (>70 degrees),
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I installed H&R lowering springs this weekend and now the suspension is making quite a bit of noise. I've double and triple checked the installation, and this isn't my first rodeo, so I don't think anything is improperly installed.
I'm hearing popping/banging over large bumps. I do believe that the noise is most noticeable when my tires drop off into a pothole and the suspension is unloaded. I think the noise is caused by the suspension being uncompressed and then the coils of the springs either hitting themselves or hitting the top hat.
Experienced excessive noise with the H&R springs? I think my next course of action is to get some spring isolators and see if that stops the noise.
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2006 with 110K. I did a search for rattles. My question is do these struts have bushings or shims that wear out over time. Going down the road car is nice and quiet. Hit some bumps and it sounds like it is coming apart.
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