Golf IV R32 :: Front End Pulse Vibration
Oct 21, 2010
Here is the scoop.
85,000 miles
koni coilovers
stock sway bar and bushings
oz ultraleggaras
18x8.5
Nitto invos
The other day i felt a pulse like a "wur wur wur wur" sound similar to when you throw a weight on a wheel or if the wheel is warped.
Wheels are fine. no nails no bubbles
Tires have plenty of life on them and my alignment is awesome.
The car doesn't pull, drift, nothing...
I pulled of the wheel and notice the driver side tie rod was bad.. I replaced it. Passenger side was mint. Test drove it and the car still has the pulse feel that increases in speed as I increase speed.
Here is the funny part.. there is no vibration in the steering wheel at all nor does it pull when i step on the brakes. I checked the sway bar links they are fine. Here are my thoughts.
Strut bushings?
Lower front control arm bushings?
Maybe the suspension is almost wheel hopping? After the tie rod change, I did notice it was more to the right side.. It's not effecting performance it's just annoying..
One other thing i recently took out the eip dog bone and replaced it with the stock unit that I rebuilt with new autohaus bushings I did it right so I don't think its that. Car also has steel skid plate OEM and the autotech upper strut tower brace.
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I usually get this sound when the engine is completely cold. I get a weird pulsating sound that's very loud, after the engine warms up a bit. It goes away completely.
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I have an 04 Jetta that I recently had the trans replaced and ever since I picked it up there is a vibration in the front end. I took the car back and they said it was my DP hitting the cross member. They suspected mounts. I ordered and installed all 3 new mounts but the noise is still there and the trans mount looks crooked where the mount bolts to the trans bracket.
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As the title says. Last night my MKIV started this jump in the steering. No load or decelerating, the wheel does a pulse or jump, fairly violent. I drove ten miles with no problem, then a couple jumps, then fine. Pulled tires and inspected, checked bearings, tie rods, ball joints. nothing obvious. Could it be something in the power steering?
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I own a 2004.5 PG GLI. The vibration starts at 55mph and gets worse from there. 75mph and you can hardly hold onto the steering wheel.
Some history, I bought the car in feb of 2013. When I got the car it drove fine. It was super low so I raised it a bit. The trans had the input shaft bearing issue so I got a reman trans, while I was there I put a new clutch and flywheel in. Since then the car has never driven right, feels like the tires are really out of balance.
Recently I took the car to the place I got the trans from and they told me the motor mounts were not aligned right, the subframe was bent, the bushings in the control arms were not in correctly, and some other small stuff. Ok, no biggie...? I fixed all this and still have this vibration that I never had before. The tech also told me the alignment was way out cause the car pulls hard left when you give it a good amount of gas. I had the car aligned the day before..
At this point I had replaced:
Ball joints
Wheel bearings
Clutch, flywheel
Trans
Left axle
Strut bushing - usrt race
Now I am onto replacing the subframe and junk. Long story short here is my current list of repairs.
Trans
Clutch,flywheel
Both axles
3 different kinds of wheel bearings-*** are currently in.
Ball joints
Inner and outer tie rods
R32 Control arm bushings
Front rotors and pads
Caliper slid pin rubbers
Subframe and bushings
Coilovers- put konis on, took fks off
Pretty much I have replaced the whole front end. All repairs are done by the book, correct tq specs and replacing hardware when needed.
You're thinking tires cause I have yet to talk about them. I have two sets of wheels and tires. My aftermarkets are 18x8.5 and then I have the factory bbs. I feel the vibration with both sets, the aftermarket are slightly worse but the greater rotating weight with wheel and tire comb I believe is why they are worse. I have had the wheels balanced twice and the car aligned twice. I had the car at a very well known shop in md that works with vw yesterday and they where clueless on the issue. Said maybe wheels and tires but that did not add up cause they balanced out fine.
Nothing I have replaced has made the vibration better or worse. Can you install the flywheel 180 out? It was lined up and went in fine.. Clutch install went beautiful, trans install was normal. Whys the car still pull hard left after being aligned?
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I'm hoping to see if there is another solution here. I just hit 100k on my .:R and it has developed a vibration that increase with speed front right. I have done a few things already including the following: swapped out winter wheels for summer, had summer wheels re-balanced (both are hub centric). Both lower control arm bushings on L&R side (both were original), new ball joint front right (it was wiped), new hub assembly/wheel bearing front right, re-torqued all the sub frame bolts to spec, inspected tie rod end - appears OK, inspected strut mount - appears OK, strut and coil appear OK, neither CV boot is not torn. replacing the wheel bearing made it quieter but the vibration is still there. It feels like the worst possible unbalanced wheel and the vibration is exaggerated under a load. I'd try a CV next but I'm having a hard time sourcing a front right CV.
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I started to notice a slight vibration coming from my front end on the drivers side last week and now is pretty loud. It increases with acceleration, fades slightly when turning left, and goes away almost entirely when turning right. Tie rods seem fine. The inner and outer cv boots are torn but have been that way for some time.
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After 11 VWs, I finally have one that I would love to drive over a cliff. My 2015 Golf TSI Sport is a miserable car for me. I have had it back to the dealer four times for the infamous "shimmy" and shift problem with the automatic transmission. It has the standard automatic. The transmission has no idea which gear to use, it shifts like a bowling ball in a barrel.
Clunks upshifting and downshifting. The other problem is the shimmy/wobble. I have it in spades. The car always feels like it is hitting small strips in the road with a constant vibration in the front. The dealer cannot find the problem even though VW is trying to figure it out. (I have a feeling this isn't the first time). It is the worst driving car I have ever owned. Would much rather drive my 04 GTI with 100,000 miles and worn tires.
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My 2013 has developed a door vibration in both the passenger front and rear doors. Happens when I either hit a bump or the door is closed. Ironically, had the same thing in my 2009 GTI.
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Background: I brought my R in for service last week because the AC stopped working. I ended up needing the compressor and the fans replaced. I picked my car up and drove it home with no problems. The next day I drove it I started to hear a rather loud buzzing noise that sounded like something was rattling loose from the front passenger side of the car behind the dashboard. It was loud enough to hear over the stereo while driving on the freeway.
Thinking something was wrong with the newly installed fans I brought the car back to the dealership and now they're telling me the fuel pump needs to be replaced. From what I understand, the fuel pump is in the back of the car under the rear seats and attached to the gas tank. I explained to them that I'm a bit confused because the sound is clearly coming from the front of the car but the mechanic there insists what I'm hearing is the fuel pump. Am I crazy or does what they're saying sound reasonable?
I tried looking at a couple YouTube videos that had sound of a VR6 fuel pump gone bad but the sound was nothing like what I was hearing.
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Ive got a 2002 f250 Sd 4x4 with 93000. Im getting severe vibration from the front drivers side at highway speed. I thought it might be a warped rotor but i cant feel it in the brake pedal, when I put the brakes on. How can you tell when the hub bearing assembly is going bad? The truck doesnt pull to that side either. I can hear it, and feel it more when i'm going around highway corners. When im driving through town, I can hear a "clunk,clunk,clunk" noise coming from that side also.
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I have a 02 venture with the 3.4L. No injector pulse when no start. Security system seems to be working properly. Just changed the crank sensor behind balancer and still does the same thing. No trouble codes present. Just not sure what to check next.
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I have great success doing pulse and glide in city. I once drove 32 miles non highway at 90mpg in a single trip using this technique. But it seem that it is impossible to do so on the highway, speed goes down too fast during glide. I found that too many pulses on highway actually decrease mpg. How to greatly improve mpg in highway driving?
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Was called today to look at a car that wont start its a 92 Chevy lumina euro with the 3.1 v6 automatic 4 door. The car has a new crank sensor recently installed ran well for a while and now has no injector pulse. Checked for spark its good. sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it fired for a second acted like it wanted to run and then died. Checked for fuel at Schroeder valve it has fuel there I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but it sprayed pretty good. I'm not real good with electrical but thought maybe the ICM under the coil packs could be bad I have one off a running engine on my shelf but wanted to see what other people had to say first.
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While pulse and glide, is it better in Eco mode or normal mode with Prius c?
Eco mode will take more time to pulse, it may lower mpg?
Nexus 7 ?
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Just pulled a code on my 94 Chevy Caprice and it was code 36 (high resolution pulse failure) What this mean?
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As I understand it pulse and glide should work at pretty much any speed. I'm trying to adopt pulse and glide but I drive on mostly 55 MPH hilly roads. If I'm in HV mode and have some EV range I find I can only get ICE shutoff below 42+/- MPH. However if I switch to EV mode as I back off the pedal the ICE will shut down at speeds up to 62+/-MPH. Switching from EV to HV while gliding at speeds above 43 MPH causes the ICE to resume turning. So I've tried accelerating to my desired pulse speed in HV coordinating releasing the pedal with selecting EV mode to begin the glide then beginning the next pulse by simultaneously pressing the pedal and mode button. Alternatively I can stay in EV mode for the glide then floor the pedal to restart ICE but that risks getting an undesired higher less efficient ICE power level and doesn't allow lower power pulses to allow glides to begin on downgrades.
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I have a f53 motorhome and 4 out of the 8 injectors pulse. The front 2 and the back 2 don't pulse. The middle 2 on both sides work perfect. Why would they not pulse and only give out positive on the two wires to the injector on the one that don't work. The ones that work they pulse.
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I will hook up the power lock/unlock for Camry 2002 no transponder. This is for my remoter starter. Everything is hook up and working. I want to hook up the passenger power lock/unlock with 1st pulse. Looking for Wiring Diagram for it or the location.
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My friend like to get his 1990 740GL back on the road. It starts and dies. Narrowed it down to injector pulse. Noid light is bright the first couple pulses then gets weaker and weaker while cranking to almost nothing. Tried a new radio suppression relay.
Tested the voltage to the positive side of the injector plug and it is full voltage with no drop from battery voltage. I tested the negative side of the injector plug for resistance to pin 19 on the ECU and it was perfect no resistance. I thought that was a pretty good sign the ECU was bad. Replaced it. Jetronic and same exact number. Same exact symptoms. I checked the grounds on the valve cover to firewall and the ground on the intake from the harness.
What else could it be?The ECU I replaced is in the passengers kick panel. Is there another computer for the injectors?
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When I first bought the car I was resetting the trip/mpg every day and getting a daily reading. Then I started to realize that wasn't accurate as a per tank reading. So now I judge my weekly trip/mpg. Currently I am getting 57-59 mpg on the MFD(I do not have a scangauge yet) - so i guess that would equal 54-57 actual.
My commute is 43 miles one way. half of it is mixed city driving a mile of low speed out of my neighborhood to a 55 mph with two 2 mile 35 mph zones and then the second half is interstate.
I have been working on keeping the SOC high for the 55 mph so that i can most of the time slip in and out of high speed "stealth" mode. Usually with the MFD around 69-75? and not drop speed too quickly. maybe a mph per 2 miles depending on the grade.
I try the pulse and glide in the 35 mph zones. coast in, then glide as far as I can and pulse back up. I have been playing with a couple ways,
OPTION 1: use in electric only-takes longer and kills SOC.
OPTION 2: Pulse hard into el+ICE and its crap mpg for a small amount of time. Pulse gently into ICE and decent mpg for a little longer amount of time.
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