Golf IV R32 :: Exhaust Leak Melted The Wires On O2 Sensor
Jul 23, 2012
So i have an exhaust leak that melted the wires on o2 sensor bank 1 sensor one. This put o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2 into lean mode and i found this out last week. Made the appointment. Was gonna run some test and replace the o2s if needed. But this morning i go to leave for work and my coolant light comes on 50 feet up the road. I pull over look at my coolant. There was about an inch of coolant left in the tank. Roll back down the street turn the car off and leave it. Im thinking i blew my head gasket running lean. When i get back from work the coolants in the same spot so i jack the car up to see if i can find the coolant leak and i dont see anything. Drop the car back down and the coolant levels back to normal so im alittle lost on whats going on here.
Also after work before coolant level returned to normal i reved it up it blew a little white smoke then black. Nothing really dark. It was quite faint. And also the coolant in the tank would bubble from the back under rev when it was low. Nothing at idle. When coolant level returned. I didn't see any smoke at all and i was unable to check coolant.
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I have an 88 ranger 2.9 manual trans. The clutch safety switch wires melted (red with light blue) 2 come off the ignition, I traced the one to the clutch switch and replaced. My problem is my book says the other goes to " electronic shift control module", I can't find this module and I can't seem to chase wire as it gets lost in wire loom.
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So I got my new GTI yesterday. There were 3 problems with this car that are going to be easy fixes but don't breathe an air of confidence in the assembly of this car. I don't have pics of everything due to Christmas madness but here are the three things I've found wrong with the car so far.
1) right daytime running headlight doesn't work.
2) there is no mirror light drivers side. Only a hole.
3) there are exposed wires on the front collision sensor.
Like I said these are simple fixes but disappointing on a brand new car.
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I have a code that just started popping up on my 2000 Yukon XL2500 with 93K. I know I have a spot on the side of the Muffler that was rotted out and patched by the previous owner. My question is would an exhaust leak that far back in the system throw off the O2 Sensor?
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Yesterday morning, when starting my 2010 Prius, the red BRAKE light stayed on, and also the yellow Traction Control light and yellow ABS light. The brakes seemed less than usual. Dealer says the left rear caliper froze up, causing the ABS sensor to melt, causing the system to go into fail-safe mode (no regenerative braking).
I have done no hard braking, the car is currently getting over 50 mpg, and has only 57,368 miles on it. I checked the brake fluid level, it looks fine. Also shut down and restarted several times, no change, lights still on.
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I have a 2000 ford f 150 4x4. I just had to replace the engine in it because something got in my engine and beat it up and bent a valve. I replace the engine with one out of a 99 f 150. By the way it's a 5.4 triton. The engine I installed was suppose to have around 77,000 miles on it. I noticed when I got it that the dpfe sensor was melted off of it and so was the hose on one side. I never had that problem with the original engine. I took the dpfe sensor off the destroyed engine and put it on the used one I installed.
Low and behold in less that one day it melted off that one. I have read on here about cats being clogged and or the egr tube. I had no problem with my original engine so it's hard for me to believe the cats or clogged. I did happen to find a metal dpfe sensor off another truck and have installed. I am getting a rough idle now and not sure whats going on. I tried cleaning the egr tube the best I could without taking it off. Also the egr ports on the throttle body are cleaned and open and the egr valve itself is a new one.
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I have an 01 Ford ranger with a 3.0 six cylinder. The passenger side exhaust manifold got so hot it melted the housing around the a/c evaporator. The local dealer said both converters need changing for a mere $2400. Took it to a local muffler shop where did a test and said they were ok. But it still doesn't want to run and the muffler guy unhooked the exhaust from the manifold and it still wouldn't run so he said. And to me out looks like 5 converters not just two.
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So I got a 98 GMC sierra and the ect sensor that is on it only had one wire running to it. Obviously the previous owner tried to make something work. I bought a new ect sensor and pigtail to rewire it but can't find the ground wire anywhere. Looking for a wiring diagram?
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I'm just curious, I have milltek catback and lately, i feel like I can hear a very small exhaust leak somewhere under the car. I could be way wrong because I get super paranoid once I hear an odd noise, so anyway would a small leak light up the CEL?
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I did some searching and found someone with the same dsg rattle chatter noise I am getting from my R (check link below)
My R has 102,000 miles, runs excellent but the dsg makes a noise mostly when I am in gear stopped with my foot on the brake. While I was under the car checking out the chatter noise I noticed a faint exhaust leak somewhere in the headers near the flex pipe. I want to fix it and I plan to put on a cat back exhaust very soon but I really don't want to spend the money on a set of headers.
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Have to do a replacement and if so.. is removed the intake the only way to get at those stubs on the ex manifolds.
I thought it was the flex-pipe.. but after listening to the sound and getting an engine code for b1 s1 the leak has to be before the o2 senor for it to pop a code..
It sounds like a standard header leak from backing out bolts or a faulty gasket leak..
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Recently bought a MKV R32. Already had a magnaflow cbe, k&n panel filter, and some emissions stuff taken out from under the hood. not sure if it has been flashed, waiting to get a vagcom. think it is pretty stock other than that. My problem is about 2 weeks after I got it, I started to notice an exhaust leak or vacuum leak or both at higher RPMs, like above 3 or 4k it starts. The exhaust has a nice deep rumble in normal driving but when the leak noises start that is all you hear, the exhaust note disappears completely. I have tightened the clamps on the cbe and still does it. Not sure what to look for.
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I feel as though my APR turboback has an exhaust leak.
There is a loud hissing noise that overwhelms the exhaust, turbo and engine noise. What it is. Sounds like a loud hissing when then turbo begins to kick it. Not normal, and it slowly has gotten worse and more noticeable.
I have a feeling its the downpipe, but I can't check it myself. When i give it gas and the hood is open (at a standstill obviously), the engine compartment smells like exhaust fumes.
Could be playing mind games with myself. What do you all think? Any way to surely test and see? I am taking it to dealership on Tuesday to double check.
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I have a leak between the turbo and the exhaust manifold. The golden clamp (c-clamp? v-clamp?) broke, and now there is a gap between the two. The dealership doesnt cover it under powertrain warranty (my car has passed regular warranty) but worst of all they do not sell the clamp on its own.
I posted a link to a picture below, it isn't my turbo.
[URL] .....
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Brief back story, a year ago my timing belt went and had to replace the cylinder head and all associated parts. No problems since then, until now. Recently the check engine has come on, and got the code for an exhaust leak. Can't remember the exact code number, but the leak wasn't causing a lean condition or causing the engine to act weird so I left it until I had to time to find the leak. On the way home today I noticed an exhaust leak that got increasingly worse to the point where at a stop light I'd go to accelerate and it would pull away very sluggishly. Got home, opened the hood and tracked down the exhaust leak to somewhere around the manifold/downpipe/turbo area. I took off my cover and noticed what could be a bolt missing, and upon further inspection a bolt that may be coming loose.
Here's what I'm referring to:
- Missing bolt?
- Loose bolt missing bolt?
- Loose bolt?
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Wasn't there a TSB for this? I've searched Google and Vortex with nothing for the MKVI but I could swear I read something on this.
I am accumulating oil/grim right around the sensor and it's beginning to irritate me. I want to take her to the dealer but would rather know for sure of any possible TSB out there so I have something to reference.
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I'm working on a 2003 Jetta GLI 1.8t (MT and 140,000m if it matters). The CEL has been on for a couple of weeks because of an exhaust leak throwing a catalyst efficiency code. After I make this post I'm going to run down to the advance auto I used to work at & see if I can borrow the scanner to see if there's anything new, but as of right now I don't know. I'll update the thread if I find anything.
The car started yesterday AM perfectly fine. Started again when I left work around noon. No problems with the start, idle, acceleration.. it's all good.
3 hours later I tried to start it to go pick up my kid from school but it just cranked without firing and would not start. I took care of business with the kiddo and then started trying to pin down the problem.
1. Opened the door & listened for the fuel pump to prime.. No sound.
2. Noticed the dome light is on.
3. Checked ALL of the fuses on the side of the dash.. All are fine. Turned key to listen for secondary prime.. no sound.
4. Bought Fuel pump relay & replaced.. no change.
5. Cursed.. a lot
6. Bought fuel pump.. replaced.. no change.
7. Cursed a lot more.. and cried a little too.
8. Noticed the fuel pump was now priming with the key being turned, but still not when I open the door.. Dash indicates the known CEL, but now I notice that the EPC light is on too (this could be from all the fruitless cranking drawing down the battery charge)
9. Figured I'd throw in a new crank angle sensor cuz of the EPC.. no change.
10. Shot starting fluid down the intake.. didn't hit a lick.
I feel like I'm at a dead end.. It's acting like a bad ignition control module, but there's no such thing on a vw 1.8t.
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Finally got the car started after over a year of acquiring parts and labor. Cylinder 5&6 had misfires due to faulty injector harnesses. That issue has resolved. But I am getting a pretty distinct exhaust leak noise coming from the manifold area and i cannot figure out where it is coming from. We smoke tested it and still can't find the leak.
Things we checked:
-Head to manifold (all nuts tight)
-Manifold to turbo (all nuts tight)
-Turbo to downpipe (2 vbands both tight)
-Wastegate (2bolt manifold to adapter tight and vband adapter to wastgate tight)
-(2) O2 sensor plugs on the maniold (tight)
-All turbo hardware (tight)
-manifold and downpipe have no cracks
Picture:
Video:
[URL] .....
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I installed the non-resonated exhaust, but I noticed that some air/water condensation is coming out of the small pipe that join the cat and non resonated part of the exhaust.
I double checked the position of the small part and is very deep inside the other tubes, plus I checked the clamps too.
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So I did the seafoam trick and I came to the conculsion that my exhaust leak is coming from either the manifold or the flex pipe. There was no smoke coming from under the car only a mist of smoking coming up from the back of the engine, probably by the manifold or the flex pipe. I do not see any visible cracking per say. I have attached a picture of the end of the flex pipe and it almost looks like someone may have tried to seal it before? I don't know if that is normal or not as seen in the picture.
2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 ...
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I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
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