Golf IV R32 :: Exhaust Gurgle A Bit Then EPC Light Comes On And Car Died?
Jul 17, 2009
This is the 3rd time this has happened to me in the past week. As I am cruising I start to hear my exhaust gurgle a bit then the EPC light comes on and the tach starts bouncing around although the revs of the motor don't seem to match it. Then the car dies on me. If I give the car like 5 minutes I can start it up again otherwise it just cranks and cranks and will not fire. But today it did it again after I was able to start the car. I did some research but no one really had the same issue I have. One person said the EPC comes on if a sensor is bad/going bad. I was thinking it could be the engine speed sensor since the tach was bouncing around, but not sure. I don't have a VAG but can probably get a local to scan the car for me.
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Turned the car off and I could hear what sounds like a bubbling or gurgle of some sort coming through the center console vents, no dash board lights or anything leaking, after being off for 15 min it stopped, I will notify my dealer, what this may be ?
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Exhaust systems/setups that make the MOST popping and gurgle sounds DURING shifts and deceleration. I know decel popping happens when there is less air in the combustion chamber and any unburnt fuel in there will burn at a much slower rate, slow enough that some of it is still burning as the exhaust valve opens causing the pop. So, with that said...which system out of the box would most closely fit the bill without getting too technical?
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I recently purchased a 01 1.8t GTi with a blown timing belt. I got the car rebuilt, did all maintenance work like brakes , hub/bearings, bushings, oil and all the good stuff that goes into getting the car back up and running. I've finally started driving it and I'm having a weird issue.
Yesterday , I stopped at a red light and the car randomly died on me. Pushed it off the road and checked things out but I couldn't see if there was anything wrong but about 10 minutes later , I was able to restart the car and drive home. Now today , on my way home from work the car starts back firing and I lost all power and rolled to the side of the road where he car would just continue to crank. I was able to get it restarted but it cut out again a couple seconds after. I don't have my code scanner but I know I do have one lean code for something. Maybe cause I have a leak between turbo and dp. I don't have access to vagcom unfortunately..
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The other night I was coming home from work in my 1999.5 MKIV 2.0 Golf (Only about a 2 mile drive), once I got to a stop light my car just turned off. No loud bang, no sputter then die, just off (Like I turned the key). After trying to start the car with just a click, pushed it into a nearby parking lot with a friend steering. Once in the park lot we tried bump starting the car (it's a manual) with nothing the car sounding like it wanted to go but never did. The next night I pushed it back to my house, pulled the starter and the battery, and had both of them tested. The starter extended and spun up fine and the battery was in excellent shape.
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I've got my "P1121" fix (replaced coolant control valve) recently and after about a week or so of driving (about 500 miles) I started to hear a gurgling sound at start up and sometimes when I turn the car off. I also noticed that pretty good amount of coolant (front side) was lost over the that same period of time (it wasn't losing coolant before for good 2k+ miles). I instantly filled the coolant and started the car. No gurgling then. But the gurgling came back after about 3 hours when I started it again. Car is not giving me any codes though.
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I have found the source of the problem....although it was not like this before....when the windows are fully closed and up....the noise happens ...when they are down...the noise is totally gone...what is up ?
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I've noticed a gurgle type noise coming from within the dash board (it seems) while my T is idling at a traffic light. When I accelerate from a stop, it seems to go away. I'm thinking it's coolant running through the heater box. I have a V-8.....
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So my 1991 Toyota Camry won't start.
Symptoms: I get a single click and sometimes a very strange electric stutter/gurgle (think I should call in just the try it on air...). Dash lights come on, dome light too. Windshield wipers work, but slowly as do the automatic seat belts that come back and choke you when your not ready for them (also slower than they should be). No radio, no driver or rear power windows, but the passenger side works as does the sun roof. The battery looks pretty new and the connections are spotless and firm.
Priors: Had the battery run down once before about a month ago... Jumped it and all was well for a while. We don't drive it much, not even daily. Also has temporarily failed to start maybe 5 times in the past 8 months. In those instances I get the rapid clicking and the power in the car seems normal. After a couple of tries it starts right up. Not sure how old the starter is, but I doubt it's recent.
I've checked the boards and found some stuff (power drain, solenoid, starter, clutch switch or something), but the power windows thing is pretty weird....
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my steering wheel mounted controls for my MFD and paddles have died wondering of its a blown fuse of something more serious it was over 100 degrees for over 40 days this summer
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Searched and found you tube video to get battery out but doesn't work on my fob. Mine slides open and once opened can't find battery, Vw shop if closed, can't lock or unlock doors?
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I am only currently APR stage 1 and my clutch is completely shot. It is currently at the shop getting a stage 2 endurance clutch put into it.
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.What would happen if I had a muffler shop turn my stock exhaust into a true dual exhaust system with 2 magnaflow mufflers on my 6.9L N/A diesel?
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I have a 2004 Prius @ 150k miles that randomly shut down today at idle.
My girlfriend was driving the car at the time and I received a call saying that the car would not start and she was stuck under a bridge. Apparently she was at a red light when the car died and it wouldn't start, so some people pushed the car out of the intersection. When I got there, the car started up fine, but I did notice that the traction battery was just about fully drained.
She mentioned that the car felt like it was in limp mode and that when she braked the whole car shook. After the car died, she tried to start it but it would just click, and it showed the red triangle. I've been driving the car for a few miles on and off the highway and no problems now and the red triangle never reappeared.
Past history of the car is just a P0420 CEL which is either the sensors or probably the cat. I just had the CEL re-read and its now showing in addition P0171 and P0121. I'm not sure when the P0171 and P0121 came up, but I did clean the MAF less than 10k miles ago.
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So I went for an oil change today left the place and about twenty minutes later of highway driving dashboard lights and says 'stop! Oil pressure! Engine off!' I get off the highway turn it off check to make sure everything is tight get back in start it up start driving again. Light and everything comes back on and the car dies. Call up the place they come out and say that if its over full (which it was) it can cause this. The guy empties the oil and refills it leaving it a little low. Car still does the same thing! I have to bring it to their shop In the morning but if I could go in knowing a little something that'd be best. So the question is what did they do to my car?!
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My EX died this morning at a light. Put it in park and fired right back up with no further issues.
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I was recently driving home when I made a left hand turn and the car died. I had the timing belt and water pump replaced 1,800 miles ago. It sounds like a timing issue to me. The last time I had timing issue it wouldn't run. This time it runs. Attached is a video of me starting it with the camera looking at the timing belt. The noise I heard made me shut it off. I did not want to cause more damage.
[URL] .....
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Driving home tonight went to take an exit and was over come with great surprise when my car didn't move haha. The power steering has seem to have gone. I got home and opened the hood, but due to the antarctic temps couldn't use my fingers to open the fluid cap. The little black box with the fluid seems to have a tick ticking every few minutes. Any thoughts as to what it could be. How bad is it to drive it like this till Thursday when I can make an appt..
I plan on bringing it to a mineke on break just to see if they can narrow it down.
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Driving home on the highway today, not boosting, just regular driving. Car was acting fine, then just shut off. Tried starting, and it would crank, but not actually start.
Got it towed home. Scanned. Two codes: 01314, Engine Control Module. And again, 01314, Engine Control Module. Tried clearing codes, and it says "comm. error". Im using the VAG Check scanner from ECStuning, has always worked fine.
Thought it could be fuel pump, but the fuel pump primes when I open the door. I did notice that the throttle body refuses to align when I put the key in the second position, when it always has before. Radio works, all presets work. Unplugged the battery for a half hour, replugged, nothing. I'm leaving it unplugged overnight to see if that does anything.
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I own a 1998 Volvo S70 with a turbo. As I was driving the other day I shifted the car from 4-5 gear. After I had the car in 5 gear, it chugged forward. I pulled to the stop light and the car stalled. It started again and I made it home. I checked the fluids and they were low so I added oil and power steering. It drove fine for the rest of the day until later in the evening when it chugged again after shifting. I then drove it the next day and the car completely died at the stop light. I couldn't restart it. It would turn but wouldn't stay on. There was also a strange smell coming from the engine after trying to start it again. Ive been told possible fuel pump or maybe the catalytic converter because of the smell..
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I was driving my 2000 Subaru Outback on Friday evening and it completely died at a red light. Hazards wouldn't turn on, couldn't move the car into N or P, couldn't get the key out of the ignition. Because we were blocking an intersection, the police went to a nearby shop and had them tow it there. This is a shop I don't trust. What could this be, so I can be informed when these people call me back and tell me I need significant repairs?
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