Golf IV R32 :: Exhaust Flap No Communication Code Comes On
Aug 17, 2011
So I swapped an R motor into my 20th anniversary GTi. It idles fine as soon as I rev it and the idle comes back down it starts breaking up and I get a code for exhaust flap no communication. Of course, there is no communication since I don't have one. Is there a way to code this out or to trick the ECU to make it think its there? As soon as i clear the code the car runs fine, even if I just turn the car off and back on, it runs fine.
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I would like to know what code is responsible for the exhaust flap. Seems like it is permanently open. The solenoid in the left rear wheel well works; but valve is fully open during idle and driving.
As much as I love my car sounding like a beast, my house and my passengers are losing sleep and experiencing hearing-loss.
We tried looking for any leads, but came back empty handed from the dealership. I've also reached out to the tuning company, and confirmed that the software itself does not affect the valve controls.
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I got the known p2015 code about a month ago and the CEL is on. Here is my situation though...I went and had my car tuned for an APR stage 1+ tune with stock hardware, everything was fine. I then upgraded to a catless 3 inch downpipe (ebay on that links up to the stock downpipe) and a short ram intake and decided to go to the 2+ to delete the engine code for not having a cat.
While I was there, the guy tuning my car said on top of the code for not having a cat, there was a code for my intake manifold saying that one of the motors for a flap wasn't working correctly. I left there expecting to see a code but it never came back on. After4-5 months, I had to pass emissions. Obviously you cant pass with the 2+(found that out the hard way) so I had to have it returned to a regular stage 1 with the stock downpipe. Still no sign of a code for the intake manifold.
I passed emissions and then put my downpipe back on, however, I decided to buy the 200 cell cat from 42DD to weld into my downpipe to save me from having to constantly get my car tuned just to pass emissions. After welding in the cat, I still had a CEL. I went to advance auto and it said I had a code p2015 Intake Manifold Runner Sen Sw Ckit Rng/Perf B1.
I went and got my car tuned to the stage 2 for the hi flow cat and the light is still on. My question is, do I need to replace the whole intake manifold or is there a possibility that I could replace just a sensor? I have a 2012. If just replacing the intake manifold will solve this issue, I'll probably just buy [URL] .... and replace it myself (assumable that's what I need ).
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I have a 2003 toyota solara se v6 I got the engine light on the other day and I noticed the gas cap was not good so I bought a new gas cap from the deal and put it on then my engine light went off. But now after 3,3 days of putting the new gas gap it's back on again what I noticed now is I'm missing the fuel filler neck flap (little metal round thing ) it's where you put the gas nozel to fill the tank and also it's showing the code PO446.
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Now that I have VCDS, I see a problem I never knew I had ... An error on the Air Con. I am not aware of any issue, it appears to do what I ask it. I cleared the error and it appears to appear again on a scan.
On reading the self study guide this looks like it might be an obstructed flap for the recirculation. I will have a close look next weekend.
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 3D0-907-040.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 3D0 907 040 J
Component and/or Version: Climatronic D1 2031
Software Coding: 0000001
Work Shop Code: WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 254B0F7DE8FA196
1 Fault Found:
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
014 - Defective
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This is a 2008 Prius with no check engine light or other operational issues. The car runs fine. When doing a health check with a Techstream scanner (new toy), it shows the code U0073 along with U0123, 124, 126, and 293. Need to further diagnose what may be wrong?
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Against my better judgement I picked up the ex wifes 2001 Prius after the "mechanic" she took it to ran the HV battery dead. I picked up two Gen II batteries and built me a good battery. Then I cleaned all the corrosion off the harness and terminals and put the HV battery back in. The engine spins but dies. There are no engine codes but under the HV ECU cattegory I get a {P3106 communication malfunction, engine > HV}. I had a spare HV ECU and swapped it and get the same code. Spare engine ECU and the same code also. Not sure where to go from here. How to check voltages at the ECM ?
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Bought my 2010 Prius with some issues, most of which are now fixed.
The remaining issue is the mentioned A/C error code: B1498 A/C Communication malfunction (A/C inverter local)
What part this is, and the OEM part number? Where is it located in the car?
Previous owner claimed it was some error with the A/C Control unit.
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I have an 04 V6, yesterday it was perfectly fine...last night we had torrential down pours, high winds and standing water... not sure if any of that matters, but this morning I went to take the kids to school and my "BRAKE" light, the ABS light, and the exhaust lights were all on. Took it to a local shop and had them check for codes. They said it was U0121... lost communication with ABS module. What should I do? I drove it a couple of miles back to the house and again earlier this evening to see if anything felt different, but all seems the same.
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What would make the OBD II not read the code that is set on my truck. It says "Communication Error..." Fuse 41 grants power to the Diagnostics port and the cigarette lighter. The cigarette lighter is working. Any other reasons I can look at?
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My baby won't run throwing PO1668 IDM PCM Communication Problem. It threw the CPS code first I changed the CPS and it now has the other codes. I'm stuck how do I test the idm all the fuses are good and the relay is good I believe I switched with another one... 341,000 miles I love this truck .....
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I dyno'd my car a couple of weeks ago and we found that the torque curve was a trough instead of a bump compared to stock - down about 10. HP was down maybe 5 (I don't have the printout in front of me). Magically, at 4100 rpm, it crossed over the stock curve and then was + 10-15 HP above stock, as you would expect from tune, intake, and exhaust. So it seemed that the power port vacuum valve was not activating. We did not have time to diagnose, so I went home and T-d in a vacuum gauge under the actuator.
From the info. I have been able to find, the flap in the manifold closes at 900 so that just the long runner torque pipes are open to the valves. And then it opens to the tuned closed port at 4100 rpm. On a cold start, there is a brief period when vacuum appears on the gauge, then it goes away and does not come back regardless of the engine revs. So, given the low torque curve below 4100, I am wondering if for some reason the internal flap is stuck in the open position.
What else I should be looking at? For instance, at idle, the flap should be open. Does this mean that the little white plastic lever is pulled down, or pushed up? If the valve is active, there should be vacuum under the actuator, right? Any way to tell if the solenoid is getting a signal from the ECU to activate it?
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Took the emission test at two different facilities last week, both test failed with an error saying "OBD Communication Failure".
This is a 7 years old car, with 63K km, nothing has been changed on this car, it still has the original wiper blades .
I went to a VW dealership today (Toronto) and this is what they did:
- Performed ODIS diagnostics, results were ok, no DTC,s in the system
- Performed a drive clean, aborted due to communication error
- Performed technical diagnostics cap discharge system, ok.
- Tested ECM ok
- Performed basic wiring test, ok.
- Next step was to remove the cluster and perform 1598 pin out diagnostic - This is where I quit.
I assume at this point I need to go through drive cycle procedure since all codes have been cleared at VW, if it's possible that there is an issue only when generic scan tools (Clean Drive OBD test systems) are used, issues with Drive Clean system software, or there is something else?
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I have a Mk4 GTI with the 24v vr6. Car wont start, just cranking for days. This all happened a week ago. I was at work, went on lunch at 12 and drove home to eat, come back at 1 and park it. 4 o clock I get off, try to start my car and nothing. Just cranking no turn over. Ive had no prior problems with this car, other than some misfires from 2 different coils, which I've replays 2 of them.
Car has absolutely no spark. Here's the parts I've regretted throwing at it because of this
-Coolant temp sensor
-Spark plugs
-Crankshaft sensor
-Fuel pump relay
I thought for sure it would of been the crankshaft sensor but I put it in and got nothing. I've checked all my fuses and they are all good. Finally got my code read with a vagcom last night and got these 2 codes
01177 no communication to ecu
01314 no communication to ecu
I also get no CEL when turning the key on "ON" which tells me ecu.
So I've kind of narrowed it down to 3 things, but it wouldn't surprise me if it was something else though. I think it's either the ECU, relay 428 for ecu, or wiring on the ecu. I swapped in a working BDF ecu and got nothing. I figured it would at least start and then cut off because of the immobiliser, but maybe im wrong. I know when my key imobiliser died it started and then cut off, maybe with a different ecu that's not married to the car is different and wont start, I am not sure. how this works.
So after the ecu swap didnt work I started reading wires. Going off the diagram here [URL] .....
I have found the following
a) pins 1/2 for ecu ground are OKAY read 12v
b) pin 21 read 12v
c) pin 3 would go to about .12 while cranking. idk what it is supposed to be
d) pin 23, which is ground to the relay 428, read .01, which is the same reading i got off the ground for the relay spot
e) pin 62 gave me nothing with the car off
So right now my concern is kind of on the relay 428. I don't know what it is supposed to read but that seems kind of off for .12v power while cranking and .01 ground. What should these readings be? should i be reading them while cranking?
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I have a friend who Just picked up a 2001 GTI 1.8T (auto) and it has a Check Engine Light, but will not communicate with the scan tool. It does have an aftermarket radio, and I did unplug it for giggles, but still no comunication. the K line has 8V on it now.
Is there something IM missing here thats a common problem?
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I've done as much research as possible, why my Jetta won't start. Here's what happened. I've had the car for 11 months now, put in a new clutch, timing belt, water pump, cool packs, valve cover gaskets, 3" stainless downpipe, and rear springs when I got the car. My rear 02 sensor wire was hanging down below the car, after the downpipe installation. I didn't think much of it until the car died going down my driveway on a rainy day (Had a CEL for a vacuum leak) but right when it died I threw a scanner at it and I got a "no communication with ECM" message.
Cranks but doesn't start and CEL doesn't come back. I did some research and found out that my o2 sensors are in the same circuit or system. Well I found that 2 wires from the rear o2 sensor had shorted out and caused my car to die. I checked the 100 and 428 relays under the hood and they click like normal and seem to be working fine, pulled apart ecm and all looks well and so I reassembled it. The 409 fuse under the dash had just a tiny bit of soot or something covering a few of the prongs so I took the black plastic cap off of it and everything looks ok. Reassembled and reinstalled. Put a new crankshaft position sensor in it. Still nothing. None of the fuses in the side panel are blown either. I'm scratching my head on this one.
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I'm working on a 2003 Jetta GLI 1.8t (MT and 140,000m if it matters). The CEL has been on for a couple of weeks because of an exhaust leak throwing a catalyst efficiency code. After I make this post I'm going to run down to the advance auto I used to work at & see if I can borrow the scanner to see if there's anything new, but as of right now I don't know. I'll update the thread if I find anything.
The car started yesterday AM perfectly fine. Started again when I left work around noon. No problems with the start, idle, acceleration.. it's all good.
3 hours later I tried to start it to go pick up my kid from school but it just cranked without firing and would not start. I took care of business with the kiddo and then started trying to pin down the problem.
1. Opened the door & listened for the fuel pump to prime.. No sound.
2. Noticed the dome light is on.
3. Checked ALL of the fuses on the side of the dash.. All are fine. Turned key to listen for secondary prime.. no sound.
4. Bought Fuel pump relay & replaced.. no change.
5. Cursed.. a lot
6. Bought fuel pump.. replaced.. no change.
7. Cursed a lot more.. and cried a little too.
8. Noticed the fuel pump was now priming with the key being turned, but still not when I open the door.. Dash indicates the known CEL, but now I notice that the EPC light is on too (this could be from all the fruitless cranking drawing down the battery charge)
9. Figured I'd throw in a new crank angle sensor cuz of the EPC.. no change.
10. Shot starting fluid down the intake.. didn't hit a lick.
I feel like I'm at a dead end.. It's acting like a bad ignition control module, but there's no such thing on a vw 1.8t.
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Replacing the cover over the second row flap things?
My 2nd row bench seats spend most of their life in the down position since the dog views everything behind the front seats as his domain. The flaps (and back of row 2) are looking a little ruff and I would like to replace, but haven't seen anything online.
Where to look?
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I have a VE Calais which has not been driven for 2 months now apart from a dead battery the fuel flap wont open (you just push them and it opens when car is unlocked) have opened it slightly and squiterd wd 40 still wont open.
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My friend has a 2001 passat and the release button for his gas flap(door) doesn't work. He looked through the trunk to see if there is an emergency cable or a possibility to get it open some other way, but no luck. How he could open it if the button doesn't work??
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I just recently had a noise issue fixed in my 2004 V6 which I thought sounded somewhat like the valve problem you described. The noise was predominantly a low RPMs (1500-1800) when under load (ie uphill, not in park).
It turned out to be a flap in the intake plenum which apparently can become loose on the rod it's attached to and cause a vibration. The parts they used were a ROD and a REPAIR KIT.
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