Second gear, I am going 40mph and I let off the throttle and start engine breaking. My exhaust burbles and crackle a LOT. Now, I love the sound. But just want to make sure it is normal. I just took my rear seats out, so I am not sure if it is louder / there because of that, or its just a coincidence.
I read a thread a while back where a fellas intake changeover failed and it started doing that really loud as well.
Alright so car is a 13 R, bolt ons, c2 stage 2+. Drove the car yesterday morning all was good. Did an oil change and fixed my cts DV (the top nozzle had popped out, i glued around it as cts had suggested to hold it in place). At first the car was making an odd "weeee ooooo" sound on accel/decel. I went home, rechecked all couplers, vacuum hoses etc. then went for another drive, there is absolutely no boost. Car drives likes its naturally aspirated, no attempt to even go into boost just nothing. Ran vag com, no codes.
View 9 RepliesBought a Jetta GLI 2004.5 in January. 94K miles. No noises accelerating or while coasting (clutch or neutral). However, when I decelerate in 3rd and 4th gear w/ no foot on gas, there is a very apparent whirring sound from the front-end (maybe in the engine bay). But I don't hear it while decelerating in any other gears. What is the cause? I will try and capture sound later when I get home. Just wanted to see if this was a common fault.
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I have a whistle sound mostly upon decel when the engine was cold. I have the APR down pipe installed. Today it's doing it all the time even when warm. I took the car to the dealer and they said it was prolly an exhaust leak. I took the car to my friends shop and we put the car up on the lift and listened from underneath. It sounded like the turbo was echoing in the down pipe. Sometimes when it's cold it can be very loud. So my question is if this is normal with the APR down pipe or with this turbo or is this a sign that I have a turbo failure coming?
Started getting a whirring / rubbing sound during deceleration and took it into dealer for diagnostics. They said driveshaft needs replacement. Fortunately they are covering under warranty but it's got me concerned about longevity.
I've got an APR Stage 1 ECU upgrade but otherwise stock. Not a track car and i'm not moonlighting at the drag strip dropping the clutch at 5000 RPMs to try and make into the 11's so am baffled by the issue.
Manual... I hear this buzzing sound, mostly during deceleration, on 2nd, 3rd or 4th gears between 2300-3000rpms, very annoying on 2nd and 3rd gears, but can still somewhat noticeable on 4th gear. Can also hear it on acceleration, sometimes on 2nd and 3rd gear, silent on 4th gear.
I've turned off soundaktor thru VCDS, but still hearing this sound so I was thinking that the hockey puck is still spinning, albeit not as annoying as when it's 100%. So I tried to disconnect it, still hearing that buzzing sound. I even removed all stuff from my car and it's still buzzing. Really annoying, specially if you just want to hear the sound of the engine braking on deceleration.
Every time after he shifts you can hear a crisp bhrrrt sound. Is that particular sound directly related to the tune the car has or is it something else?
I have an APR tune stage 2 and do not get these bhrrrt sounds after shifts. Or will I get these when I go stage 2+? Is it a DSG thing?
I've seen some UM and GIAC tuned R's sound similar. Leads me to believe it may be related to type of tune you have. Is this correct?
I currently have 42DD TBE with VWR CIA.
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I have had the raspy sound both from stock exhaust and TT exhaust. Is this cat related? heads related? anyway to avoid it?
View 22 Replies2011 stock gti. Was fine yesterday before work, then after work I noticed it sounded a little bit louder, and I hear the exhaust growl when I let off the gas. Car feels a little bit different too. Slight vibration under my feet it seems.
No codes or anything. I also noticed this morning when I pulled into the driveway over the little lip at the front of the driveway the exhaust made a sort of sputtering sound.
This morning on the freeway, I was going to pass someone in 6th gear, put the pedal down start accelerating like normal, then suddenly at a little over 3k RPM the sound of the exhaust gets a lot deeper and it accelerates a little bit harder.
I know that boost starts to really kick in at about 3k RPM, but I have never noticed the exhaust get deeper like that. I did it a few more times and it seemed to stop doing it. I didn't notice the tachometer jumping around or anything so I don't think it is clutch slip.
So, I'm minding my own business pulling out of Starbucks with my gingerbread latte, making a nice and easy right turn when I hear "clunk" ("pop" maybe??). I hear a scraping/whirring sound on deceleration only (once I get past say 30-40 miles per hour). NOT brake related at all, occurs only when I let up on the accelerator. My baby is a 2000 Ford Taurus with 238,000 (yep, you read that right). I'm thinking transmission (and, I really want to be wrong). I've had the transmission flushed every 30,000 miles and serviced at 150,000 per Ford's maintenance schedule. I have taken very good care of my vehicle, but I do put a lot of miles on it every day as I drive 120 miles round trip to work 5 days a week.
View 8 RepliesMy "05" Prius has 164K, I'm the original owner and I have had great success with this car. I know some owners talk about the loud whining humming sound from the A/C unit which I am aware of but this newest sound is different and after 4 hours with a Toyota tech all they can come up with is an A/C compressor going bad. I only hear this sound after I reach 40MPH+ and then decelerate. It then winds down with the speed of the car sometime intermittently. If I accelerate it goes quiet.
I've also tried speeding up to 40MPH and then move into neutral. It will stop the noise. I'm adding a video and I realize there is standard road noise but if you watch my energy monitor you will hear the noise whirring winding when the green arrows point back to the electric motor. Pay close attention to the viseo frames at 13 seconds, 22 seconds and again at 29 seconds. Turn up the volume. Of course inside the cab it is much more pronounced. I'm finding it hard to believe this is an A/C compressor. Sounds more like an electric motor whining/whirring. I'm concerned about driving my car for safety reasons.
I have a 94 ranger 4L. I am looking for a more loud exhaust sound in/outside the truck and at idle. I have had a cherry bomb turbo on it and it was ok but not loud enough for my liking. I just picked up a flowmaster 40 2 days ago and it sounds good but again just not loud enough for my taste and kinda a lot more. I was looking for a louder muffler that is not a glasspack and would like to stay under like 80 or so.
I also thought about getting a high flow cat which i think might make some more sound but was not sure. Im running the stock pipe which is 2" and end in back of the wheel on the right. I look at the Hooker Headers Maximum Flow Muffler which i thought would be louder b/c it's more straight through the muffler so it would put off more sound better. What would u recommend for something more loud ?
I just got a brand new 2008 F150 supercrew FX2 last wed. I love it, it's my first truck ever and I'm excited to drive it. I wanted to change the exhaust to something that has a low rumble and is deep, not too loud or anything.
View 1 RepliesI have a 95 f150, Eddie Bauer, extended cab, 4x4, 302, 285 tires. My question is this... What happens if I remove the second cat. I am trying to get a better sound from the exhaust and have been told the second cat is making that impossible. There is no o2 sensor downstream of the second cat, so I'm thinking the computer will never know its gone. Also how well this affect power. With the bigger tires, it's kinda sluggish off the line.
View 5 RepliesMy wife and I just bought a pre-owned 08 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 60,000 miles that just started to make a whistle sound on initial acceleration and deceleration when the engine is warm and the transmission is in gear and moving. The sound does not happen with a cold engine, when the transmission is in park, or neutral. A local mechanic checked it for vacuum leaks and didn't find any. He thought it may be a dirty throttle body, so I cleaned that out really well, but the whistle didn't go away (it did make the jeep run a lot smoother!). It's difficult to pinpoint the noise since it only happens when the vehicle is actually moving.
View 8 Repliesive read through most of the "clunk" threads none fit what im experiencing. so anyway, i just got the car back from getting the coil packs replaced under recall and im driving on the highway cruising at a steady 70mph. every time i take my foot off the throttle from a steady speed or accelerating i get this clunk and quick vibration in the front end, i can feel it through the steering wheel. thought it was the adapters so checked them, theyre all torqued properly. i can feel the clunk through the steering wheel, and its not the normal clunk when the awd disengages. it only happens at highway speeds when i let off throttle. could it be the dogbone or other engine mounts maybe?
View 5 RepliesLast week i started to notice that my gti clicks on moderate acceleration, and again if I let off and using engine braking. I can only hear it with the windows down, and it seems to be coming from front of the car. My first thought is that the axle bolts might be loose, or I have a failing CV joint. I re-torqued to 70nm, and could not budge for the 90 degrees after that. So, they are tight - possibly too tight?
I've read a bunch of threads on relay clicks, etc., and do not think that's whats going on here. I'll double check tomorrow, and see if it's the 1000 rpm relay click. What this might be, or how to definitively know whether it is / is not the CV's? I'd be fairly surprised if the CV's are dying - I do not drive this car hard or beat on it at all, and generally keep it out of boost around town.
Details on car - '10, MT, about 30k. Koni coils at about 24.5" ftg, APR stg II, B&B TBE, all with about 15k on them.
The other day I decelerated rapidly. I didn't slam on the brakes, but I went from maybe 45mph to 0 in maybe 40 feet or so. When the car stopped, the CEL came on. No apparent issues at the time so I drove it the last few miles home. I checked under the hood with the engine running and heard a whistling noise which I tracked to the plastic pipe connecting the intake manifold to the brake booster. I didn't take a picture of it, but it is the one that has a silver heat wrap on part of it where it passes close to the throttle body. I grabbed a random pic online that kinda shows it.
R32 bay pic by isaacpettit, on Flickr
I believe this pipe feeds air from the intake manifold to charge the brake booster? If this was the case, I thought possible by hitting the brakes harder than usual the back pressure at the check valve was enough to burst the plastic pipe, which may have been heated, stressed already? Then the vacuum leak caused the CEL?
What is the actual purpose of that pipe. The car is well maintained with recent service and just over 30K miles.
It's not entirely repeatable but only happens on tight left turns under deceleration such as a u-turn or turning left into a parking spot. The noise is a continuous whirring like a bit of plastic is rubbing the front passenger tire tread and continues for a moment even as I straighten the wheel out. I'm going to take the wheel off tomorrow to change my brake fluid and will take a closer look then. I'm on stock suspension and wheels.
View 1 RepliesExhaust systems/setups that make the MOST popping and gurgle sounds DURING shifts and deceleration. I know decel popping happens when there is less air in the combustion chamber and any unburnt fuel in there will burn at a much slower rate, slow enough that some of it is still burning as the exhaust valve opens causing the pop. So, with that said...which system out of the box would most closely fit the bill without getting too technical?
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