Golf IV R32 :: Everything Seems Fine But Car Won't Start
Nov 9, 2009
My R32 won't start . I drove it today to the shops, no problem. Got back into the car, turned the key, starter motor works fine, engine tries to catch light (it like chug chug chugs) and then stops. Tried over and over, used a bit of throttle too, but it won't catch light/idle etc.
I've a feeling the engine isn't getting fuel, as it seems to want to start, but it won't catch light. After many many attempts, it now just cranks over, there is no trying to catch light (no more chug chug chug)
It got towed to the local VW shop, and they plugged in the diagnostics, and it did not show any faults.. I checked all the fuses in the dash board, none of them seemed out. No warning lights on the dash either. They are gonna put a fuel pressure gauge on it tomorrow, and see if the fuel pump is out.
I was thinking it was a Coil pack, but I know from my past 1.8T experience, when they fail it's slightly different... in that the engine will start and idle, but with a serious misfire. My case is different - the engine won't start, but the starter motor turns fine.
(the battery is fully charged - I charged it last night before my trip out today!)
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2002 Jetta GLS 1.8T (engine stock except diverter valve) 171k miles
It's done this a couple times now. Both while raining out/high humidity. Prior to this, I could hear the pump "growling". Sounded like maybe starting to go. You could hear it prime when opening the door or turning the key forward but would stay sounding like that even when the car was started. Without the radio, you can hear the pump running.
1st time- The car will crank without issue but never start. I let it sit a few minutes, turned key, heard it prime,tried again, started right up like there wasn't an issue and I couldn't hear the pump this time while the car was running.
2nd time-The car will crank without issue but never start. I let it sit for an hour, opened door (couldn't hear prime), checked fuse 28 (good). Figured wth, let's try anyways. Turned key, couldn't hear prime, started right up. WTF. cold idle normal (1000-1200rpm), light revs to 3000 ish normal. Turned off car, let sit for a minute. Turned key, heard prime, car started without issue and I couldn't hear the pump again while the car was running.
My dad is thinking to replace the pump right away. Is there anything else to try? The relay is working... at least sorta. With the somewhat intermittent issue, where to start? Either way, relay or pump, I will be replacing fuel filter.
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My 03 GTI 1.8 is having start issues. It cranks up fine, but it sputters to a start. It doesn't idle high and fall down to the 850 mark like normal, it just lugs itself into low idle. I have to then throttle it until it stops sputtering and I have a smooth rev. Then after that, the car runs fine. I can stop it and start it up again fine when it's warmed up. I have checked multiple things already.
-The Ignition coils are in excellent condition
-Spark plugs are normal, but not exactly perfect
-Fuel pump works fine
-Battery was tested and is clean and good
-Throttle Body is clean (at least to the eye, Im cleaning it next)
-Oil was changed when I changed the sensor along with filter.
I should mention I changed the crankshaft position sensor a month ago. The block at least from under the car is filthy, but I don't know if that affects anything.
I had a check engine light, so I got its codes read (I'm out rn, but when I get home I can show you) and decided to just take it to a shop. When I took it, the light went away, decided to start as normal, and the shop just charged a huge fee for the diagnostic and nothing was fixed. I really need to know what to do with this, I daily it every day and its starting to bother me a lot now.
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I just bought a 2002 Jetta 2.0L with automatic trans and about 98000 miles on the odometer.It drove fine on a short test drive. It drove fine on a 45 min drive home after which I parked it for a short while (about an 60-90 mins.) Then I tried to restart it . It cranked fine but would not start. After 3 or 4 attempts I let it rest for a min and then it started. And the CEL came on.
This was a few days ago. Today I finally got a chance to scan it with these results:
VCDS Version: Release 15.7.3 Running on Windows 7 x86
[URL] .....
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AVH.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 06A 906 032 FR
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/2V G 4070
Software Coding: 00003
[Code] ....
I'm new to MK4's and I'm at a bit of a loss as to where to start. It looks to me like there's a problem with both the fuel pump relay and the crank sensor. But what to make of all the short to ground codes. Could they be caused by a bad fuel pump relay?
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The car cranks absolutely 100%, in no way is this the battery, it just will not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't shutting off, I only had a quarter tank in the car, I figured as hot as it was today I was getting some vapor lock with the fuel. Went and got some gas, still wouldn't start, then the dash started yelling at me telling me I have no oil pressure, shut off the car.........car you are not running calm down. So then there's that along with the car not starting. I took the fuel hose off to make sure I was getting fuel, I was, so I took the key back out, but the car would not give up, the fuel pump kept going and the dash was blinking violently. When I put the hose back on and got compression it finally stopped, that can't be how the cars work can it? The fuel pump doesn't shut off if there's no compression? Checked all fuses and the fuel pump relay, every was fine, the fuel pump even still ran with the relay out. What could be going on, I can't seem to find one damn thing even related to the fuel pump not shutting off.
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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Replaced battery. It seems to crank fine and I can definitely hear the pump kick in for a couple seconds at first, but just will not start. It sat for several days in cold weather. Based on what I have read here I am thinking it is the fuel pressure, and that I need to get the tool to check that. There is about 1/4 tank fuel now, it seems that once before when it sat for several days around 1/4 tank it started and ran rough, then ran fine after I filled the tank. Could it be as simple as filling the tank?
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First time ever, my Passat has stranded me. Won't start. 120K. Cranks fine. Fuel pump fuse is OK. Almost new plugs. New fuel filter. No codes. Almost a full tank of gas. No smell of fuel in engine compartment. Disconnect MAF, no difference. This started over a week ago. The car would not start on the first try. Always on the second try. Once started the car ran fine, did not stall or hesitate. Then, just once, it almost did not start; I think it was the fourth try it finally started. After that I replaced the fuel filter, just in case. It's been fine for several days. Now this morning, no go
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vehicle overheated stopped made a quick fix on the radiator and refilled with antifreeze started everything seemed ok drove car home still everything was fine next day will not start. turn key to on position lights on dash and headlights good, turn the key to start position all goes dead. fuses are the good battery is good connections to starter are good engine not seized up. I get no code on my odbII. I have replaced radiator and hoses, checked all fuses in all four fuse box and side compartments.
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I currently have a 1997 jeep grand cherokee that I seems to die on me. I will charge the battery to 100 percent and its actually a good battery. The vehicle will run fine and then out of nowhere it wont start. I throw the battery jump box on it and it starts. I was thinking that something has been obviously drawing power from the battery. What it could be?
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Had the Excursion out today. Made a stop coming back and used the remote start. I entered the truck and by mistake pressed the brake pedal which shuts off the engine. When I tried to start the truck with the key...it cranks fine but does not start. It'll try to run, sputter...but will not run.
I cannot hear the pump running when the key is turned. It was towed home and it in the driveway. I assume it's the fuel pump....but wondered if the remote start/alarm could be killing the power to the pump? The cut-off switch in the passenger footwell is pressed in. Where do I start:?
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My daughter's 1998 Saturn S-series will not start. It will turn over fine but will not fire until I shoot some starter fluid down the intake. Then it fires up and runs fine. It consistently will not crank unless I shoot the starter fluid to it. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when I turn the switch on. The Saturn dealer says it may be the ECM but I have my doubts. The ECM will cost my $800 from Saturn.
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I got a 05 Passat I am working on. The car was being drove and my customer when to eat lunch. Came out side and didn't start. Got it to my house threw it on the scanner and it brought up 2 cam sensor codes. Replaced them and still nothing. What to try next. The car cranks over fine and it does have fuel pressure and also has spark.
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My 1992 buick regal 3.8l initially cranked fine but did not start. I went to crank again and starter turned very slowly and finally just clicked got new battery and still same slow finally jumped it and got it to somehow start took it to shop they went to replace starter and told me that a weight had fallen off my flywheel/flexplate and lodged in starter so i agreed to let them replace flywheel starter 2 days later still in shop does this sound reasonable?
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My 2002 Tahoe cranks over fine (new battery), but, will not start. I have checked the fuel pump relay and have control power to energize the relay, but. no switched power from ECM to change relay state. Jumped rely 30/87 and pump runs. No DTC's. Gauge on instrument panel reads no fuel. Scanner shows 56% level. Tried to use my Snapon MT2500 to switch relay state and received error message "generic device control limit exceeded" ECM?
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My 2008 Sonata finally let me down after 4-1/2 years of flawless service. Turned the key, it cranks fine, but won't start. I think it's the fuel pump. It has 63,000 miles now so the bumper-to-bimper warranty is over. Is the fuel pump (if that's it) covered by the 100,000 mile drive train warranty? I checked fuses and they are all fine. I don't know if there is a fuel cutoff switch. It might just be the pump relay...but I want to have it towed, and the choice is dealer or my regular mechanic.
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I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee that has about 165K miles on it. I bought it used in 2004 and a week later, I started experiencing the following problems:
Originally, the Jeep would start and would run fine but nothing on the dashboard would work - gauges, mileage, lights, nothing. AC and power winds also wouldn't work. After several days, everything would start working fine again. This occurred three or four times during the winter. I got it checked out and the shop said that the body control module was shorting out, and that when it was wet was when it was having problems.
In 2005, the Jeep started having an issue with not starting. It would crank but not turn over. I discovered that if I disconnected the battery for a minute and then reconnected it, the Jeep would start up just fine. I've been doing this ever since.
I had the BCM replaced in 2006 and I didn't have any problems with the Jeep starting or with the gauges for about 9 months. Then everything started happening again. Now I have to disconnect the battery about once a month to get the Jeep to start.
I figure there must be something else other than just the BCM being bad since this is the second BCM I've been through. I think there must be something else causing the BCM to go bad, but I don't know what.
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'99 Yukon. Starter spins engine fine but engine won't start. Spray a quick shot of starter fluid or drip some gas on the air filter and it starts fine. After sitting idle for a half hour or so the situation returns. Car will run highway speeds (70-80mph) fine and will handle stop and go in town. Local mechanic wants to replace the fuel pump, which was replaced a couple of years (30,000 miles) ago. This seems an expensive first step with no diagnostics done.
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92 tercel will not start. Replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap. Turns over ok.
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My 2004 Buick Century is parked outside, it starts up fine and runs fine every morning and anytime it sits for a period over an hour in any kind of weather including minus 25 degrees. Sometimes when I shut it off for say 15 minutes or half hour and then go to start it again it will crank over fine but not start up. I can try several times, same thing.. But then if I leave it alone for maybe another half hour and try it again it starts and runs fine. also no warning lights etc. It's like something needs to reset itself. What is causing this ?
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A friend is stumped by a problem with his truck, so I thought I might get some insight here. I haven't actually seen the truck, all that follows is from what he described, I'm just the messenger here.
The truck had been running fine on a used engine installed about six months ago. Then he ran it out of gas, it hasn't run properly since. It cranks fine, but won't start. He says it WILL start when spraying starter fluid into the throttle body, but only while the starting fluid is supplied. He also says he disconnected the fuel line somewhere near the engine, cranked the engine, and got good fuel supply (but no fuel pressure gauge reading). He's done some logical things: new fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. No luck. Figuring that he'd sucked something ugly into the injectors, he decided to replace those with no change (yes, I cautioned him about throwing expensive parts at it with no clear reason).
He reasons that he must be getting spark based on the engine running with starter fluid, and there must be fuel based on his test with the open fuel line, so he thinks it's an electronic problem, presumably the signal to the injectors. This is out of my league...and my friend is a carpenter, not a mechanic. If he could get a scanner would this kind of problem register a code?
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