Add a few codes come up today ... P2187 & P218. Bank 1 & 2 running lean at idle
Haven't been able to find a definite answer..
Replace purge valve?? (P/N?)
MAF??
Fuel filter??
I keep getting engine codes and 265 miles per tank.
So a couple days ago i replaced the fuel level sensors in my 07 gls 2.7 liter santa fe and all was well for 2 days. I had finally driven it enough that the codes cleared from active status and the car turned off the cel. However, during the same ignition cycle the engine started missing a bit and the cel came back on and started flashing at me. Codes found now are p2187 lean bank one and p2189 lean bank two, plus p0302 misfire detected cyl 2. I've tried the carb cleaner trick looking for a vacuum leak.. but no luck. Air intake boot is good vacuum lines look good etc. What might be going on? Did i get debris in the tank and glog an injector with it? Fuel pump itself appears to be operational. No bogging down or loss of power under heavy acceleration.
View 1 RepliesI am getting a CEL and the error code is p2187 engine too lean at idle. I have been reading around to try and find the issue, some seem to say PCV could be the issue. I have also read a test would be try and remove the oil cap while car is idling. I did this test and the oil cap was difficult to remove and the idle got really rough once removed.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 model 2.7 v6 with 80000 Km, and I would like to share my experience with several issues:
- Random misfire: brought the car to Hyundai, very bad response. I bought online the wiring of the spark plugs (according to them that was the reason of the misfire) and they installed it, did not improve. The car was still showing error code after clearing, and the fuel consumption at an average of 23L/100km.
- I then decided to change all the 6 spark plugs, no difference. The workshop told me the coils were in perfect condition. Still having a message like this: "ignition error on 2 or more spark plugs".
- I did a complete cleaning with contact spray of the MAF sensor.
- I bought online a couple of ignition coils, being original Hyundai ones, and changed them. When installing them i realized the existing ones were not original Hyundai and had a small marking, making me think they were recycled or chinese stuff.
- Having done that, the OBDII shown two more error codes: P341: error on camshaft position sensor, P2189: fuel idle (too much air, maybe caused by the first one). Changed both camshaft position sensors and then big change in the behaviour, more response, throttle, better gear switching.
- I so concluded that the 4 remaining coils have to be changed and ordered another time 4 of them online. OBDII showing now only one error code: random misfire. The engine going much better than all i got before.
- I have decided to take advantage of this order and also ordered a new TPS (seeing here that it was a common problem) and a Crankshaft position sensor (in order to prevent any other issue).
- I also changed previously 2 downstream o2 sensors that were giving an error related to emission. Emission here are not strictly controled so it is not a big issue.
My question is, what in all that sensors can more likely make my car burn 23L/100km??? Asian cities are quite similar to american cities, lots of highways. This consumption compared to what you describe is way over the normal one isn't it? I was assuming the ignition problem was the responsible, am i right?
My wifes 2007 Santa Fe Limited 3.3 has had a check engine light going on a year now. Car has about 122k on it now. Scanned codes about 6 months ago and had a fuel system lean code. Did some reading and ended up replacing the purge valve. The CEL stayed off til the end of the drive cycle and came right back. I have noticed when you fill the car up there is a real strong smell of gas but the car always starts right up. It now has a P0171 Fuel system too lean (b1) and P2187 Fuel system too lean at idle. Where to start. Don't have much background with hyundai. Also the ESC off light comes on randomly and goes off. Doesn't happen real frequently though.
View 4 RepliesI just has a gen 2 haldex and wireless controller installed. 10 minutes of driving around getting on it in sport mode, I feel a thunk from the back and when slowing down a few odd shudders. Drove it cautiously a bit more and felt fine, then harder and harder. Felt better, no understeer, seemed ok.
Got home and scanned with Vagcom, got the errors below, cleared DTC and scanned again, same errors.
Address 22: AWD Labels: None
Part No: HW0 5Ha lde x
Component: Tuning
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 5AB1BED4953067CEBA7-800F
2 Faults Found:
16347 - Control Module - EEPROM Error
014 - Defective
02248 - Valve for Controlling Clutch Operating Angle (N373)
014 - Defective
I'm reaching out to see if any other MQB platform owners who had DCC/Magride are experiencing suspension errors after upgrading to coilovers while employing a delete kit. Some of us S3 owners have been running into this issue after such an upgrade and using this kit by KW. I can throw a suspension error on demand in my S3 by taking a turn/curve at 40mph+ (highway on/off ramps work perfectly for this). A bumpy road or hard braking can also cause an error to be thrown.
Aside from the error being annoying sounding and looking it also re-enabled traction control. You cannot turn traction control back off until you've power cycled the car. This is a pretty annoying side effect that could also be pretty dangerous under the right circumstances. KW seems to think their kit is operating correctly and that the height sensors are out of range due to lowering the car. Currently there's no way to adjust where the height sensors sit so in my personal opinion this seems like a massive oversight on KWs part and their product is not working correctly.
I was having an issue with my car not going into boost so I plugged my code reader in and it had 2 codes 1 was p1200 n249 malfunction and the other was diverter valve malfunction so I did the quick easy one and got a new factory diverter valve but it still doesn't go into boost and still reads p1200 n249 what do I need to replace or should I do the n249 bypass it's a bone stock jetta 5 speed.
View 5 RepliesI have an intermittent check engine light that's popping up due to a P2187 code. The CEL will come and go, and if I clear the code it it'll be back within the next week or so. The car is a stock 2011 GTI with DSG. What I need to be looking at to get this sorted out?
View 4 RepliesSo my car has been running a little rough for a while(about 6-8 months now) and the CEL has been going off sporadically. The clutch went out last week and has been replaced fixing a large part of the issue, however the car still feels kind of rough in the 3k rpm range and up. I feel a strong vibration when I step on the throttle and the car hesitates to build power. On cold starts the car also has a rough idle where the rpms are hovering above 1k for a few minutes.
I recently took the car over to AU Tuning where they gave me a free diagnostic(Pacific German was charging me $100 just for a diagnostic!?). They told me the throttle body might need a cleaning but I was better off replacing the whole unit. They also discovered my air intake hose torn near the diverter valve and a 5 bar Fuel Pressure Regulator that was pressed in for added pressure.
Given that I just replaced the clutch, funds are tight and I don't have the money to replace everything right away
I should mention VAG-Com reported the following codes:
P1137 Fuel Trim: Bank 1 - System too Rich,
P1297 Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1171 Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator(G188) Implausible Signal
I recently bought this golf and well gotta say very happy with it, W reg so 2000 model and it the 1.9 TDI SE variant, 29,000 miles and only one owner from new. But like many before me I have a air con issue.
So here's what I have looked at. Done the climatronic test with two error codes
04B6 Standing Time Signal
0318 Air Conditioner Pressure Switch
The blower works inside etc, but only blows warm air. I can hear the engine rev's change when I push the Econ button. So car is pretty mint but 15 years old, where should I start looking.
Any LED I can throw in the footwells / license plate area that won't throw a code? I'm using the ones from superbrightleds.
They worked everywhere except the license plate and the footwells. Everytime I get in my car I have to see (check license plate lights!) and a bulb out icon.
I'm having some problems with my 05 1.8T GTI. I've had a check engine light for about 3 months and finally got a diagnostic tool (VAG V-checker). Right now I have one code 17748.P1340 Camshaft position sensor-G40/engine speed sensor -G28: incorrect allocation.
I researched a little bit and talked with some of the guys at the local VW dealership. From what I learned this could be related to (obviously) faulty camshaft position sensor and/or faulty engine speed sensor. So I've replaced both of these sensors and even cleaned the Mass Airflow sensor.
I cleared the code and after driving about 5 minutes the code came back. Also I recently had a P0300 and P0304 cylinder 4 misfire default code. So I've changed all of the ignition coils too since I heard they were recalled a while back.
I recently found these codes. My car is APR 1+. The car seems to run fine so I'm not sure what is going on. I changed the plugs at ~60K miles and now have 72K miles.
Address 01: Engine (CRZ) Labels: 06F-907-115-CDL.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 907 115 M HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: 5BH20--- Serial number:
Coding: 0403010A180F0160
[Code] ....
Ok, It doesn't start, it tries to but doesn't get there, its not the battery the alternator, the starter or the battery terminals which goes to my second question...for error codes do I just pop them in google to see what they mean or is there a better site??....reason why I'm removing the lip its because its being towed to the mechanic, its at my job's parking lot right now, first time ever my VW leaves me stranded but I guess it happens:
Error codes I got:
p0261
p0267
p0270
p0264
p0445
p0037
p2257
p0010
p0414
p0141B
I have a 2009 Sonata 3.3, 80,000 miles. After getting fuel I stopped about 2-3 miles away, when driving after a restart threw a CEL. Went to autozone and they gave these codes (P2189 and P0153) and were telling me possibly O2 sensor or Vacuum leak. Engine seems to run fine. Not sure if related but while fueling, gas pump was sputtering and I thought oh no. Wonder if I got bad gas and if it could throw these codes? I have since threw a bottle of Techron in and drove about 5-7 miles. I have had major work done with Timing covers twice. So it is possible a line may have came off but that was a few thousand miles ago. I pulled the cover and looked for any visible hoses off, did not see any. Don't want to spray with carb cleaner since it is dark out. I am still under the 100,000 warranty, so not sure if this would even be covered or not or whether I am doing irreparable damage. I saw other posts mentioning PVC issues?
View 6 RepliesI'm getting codes P0441, P0446, P0456, P0420 and P0430.
My fuel consumption in town is around 12 mpg, so a bit higher than what others report. The cats were removed because they were in bad condition. I suspect excess fuel was sent to the cats. That would also explain the bad mpg ?
P0302
P0301
P1545
P1300 X2
I have no clue what is wrong but I have an exhaust leak and when I am accelerating I can hear the loud shhh sound like the turbo is leaking but I still have power like normal.
So I have my CEL light on error codes are P0036 & P0141.... how do I fix it??
View 1 RepliesWe just bought an 1998 JGC Laredo and it ran fine for the first week, then started stalling. Our mechanic originally thought it was the CPS (Crank Position Sensor) and replaced it, and we thought that solved the problem since it ran better. They made a comment at the time that the previous owner had been "chasing this problem for a while since most of the ignition parts had been replaced (computer, CPS, coil, etc)
In a few days though, it started stalling and we took it back to them. Note, no error codes, and the check engine light never came on. After scratching their heads for a while, the finally did a "wiggle test" on the wiring and found that one of the plugs on the computer was loose, and the plug itself needs to be replaced. I can easily make the car stall by just pushing down on the plug a little.
I temporarily have it working much better by using wire ties and securing the plug down to the computer, but at some point I will need to replace it. Make sure if you replace it, you get one from a Jeep with the same S/N on your computer. Jeep was very bad about making changes to the computers and systems and you could easily get an incompatible one.
I'm getting codes C1241, C1259,C1310, P1241. All of them have to do with the skid control ecu. Should I replace the ecu?
View 5 Replies