Golf IV R32 :: Erratic Shudder Occurs At Different Speeds
Nov 30, 2009
Well for a couple of months now I've had a really erratic shudder that occurred at different speeds and at different RPMs... I checked motor mounts, wheel balance, CV Joints, flywheel, etc. and when I took it to my mechanic, he discovered a sliced exhaust hanger in the middle of the exhaust system and nothing else.
Well after replacing this rubber hanger this vibration miraculously stopped occurring. I realized now that the movement of the exhaust which was created over certain roads with undulation caused it to flex harmonically and interrupt the workings of my Koni FSDs.
I really began to think the struts were the culprit but in the end realized the frequency from the loose exhaust was too much for the Frequency Sensing Dampers to counteract as the movements and inertia were opposite the motion of the car itself. She's now smooth as silk at highway speeds once again and only a slight vibration from the race strut bushings which were recently upgraded from stock can be felt through the steering wheel.
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I recently switched from stock rotors to a pair of SP slotted rotors. The pads are stock. I thoroughly followed the bedding process and had no problems until now. For the past 2 weeks I noticed brake shudder when stopping from highway speeds. My first reaction was that it was a warped rotor. Since it was a fairly new pair.
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Picked up a used 10 prius iv with 31k and have put 1200 miles so far. One troubling thing I have noticed is this weird shudder/vibration that occurs between 30-40mph when the throttle is at the half way point (area between the light green and dark green bar) Vibration similar to that of driving over the rumble strip on the highway but not nearly as harsh and the noise would be similar to when you have one rear window open in the car and it creates the pulsating wind noise.
It doesn't do it all the time and mashing the throttle seems to alleviate the problem. It doesn't happen so much when cruising around town but it happens every time I get near the top of the incline in our office park and the car continues to lose speed until such time as I get back on the gas but it continues to do it until I turn into the parking lot. Occasionally it does it when coasting down a hill with the throttle right near the point of crossing from light green to dark green on the screen.
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The truck is a new to me 99 f250 7.3. The problem occurred before doing the brakes, and after. The front brakes had new pads and calipers(rotors appeared to be in good condition) while the rears got New rotors, calipers, pads. The persisting problem is a really bad brake shudder that seems to be getting worse. It only occurs below about 5-10mph when braking. on this trip back to school there is a hill with a stop sign at the bottom where i should have rolled forward when i let my foot off the brake. This didn't happen.
It almost seemed as if the tires(meaty 35in dick cepek crushers) where rubbing and catching on something. but we checked and it didn't seems as if they were, though they do come somewhat close to the bumper. Im not even sure if its brakes or what it is, a friend of mine said possibly the hubs, but what can i do to pinpoint it? I wanna try loading down the front with something to simulate the drop when braking and see if the tires do indeed hit as when going to a rolling stop with only a little braking it doesn't do it. Any other things to check?
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My Ford F250 XLT (HD) 2 wheel drive has recently developed a shimmy; a shaking of the steering wheel that usually occurs at medium speeds, and seems worse when going around a curve. But since it doesn't seem safe to drive, I dropped by a local shop for a diagnosis. Their thought was that I had a caliper sticking, since it pulled to the left when they test drove it and applied the brakes, and maybe rotors since the vibration indicated warped rotors. Since I hadn't mentioned shaking during braking, I paid the diagnostic and moved on.
Upon leaving, the shaking started up again going around the first curve, at about 35-40 mph. Shortly after that I took it to a dry, flat, unbusy stretch of road, and applied the brakes at about 60 mph, and brought it to a stop in it's lane with my hands off the wheel; no pull either way. Now I have it up on stands, and have visually and physically checked the parts I know and recognize, i.e., ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings, etc. I don't know how to inspect gear box, or steering shaft issues, but steering wheel play is minimal.
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I own a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE with a 6-speed manual transmission. The car has just under 113,000 miles on it. I've religiously maintained the vehicle per the owner's manual and overall it is in excellent condition. In particular, we change the oil on a regular basis per the maintenance schedule. However, on several occasions we have started to hear rattling coming from the engine. The rattling occurs at all engine speeds and in all gears and it doesn't matter whether the car has just been started or if the engine has been running for a while.
When the rattling has gotten more prominent, we've taken the car to the dealership and also to our local oil change place and on both of those occasions, they've told us that the engine oil was VERY low. Also on both of those occasions, we were well within the recommended range in between oil changes (<3000-3500 miles). We have not noticed leaking oil in our driveway or in our garage. I am wondering about the potential reasons why we could be losing oil, and if we aren't seeing any in our driveway where it's going? I've mentioned this to friends and they've said it's 'burning oil' - but we're not noticing any strange smells or smoke. The car is ~10 years old but it's fun to drive and in great condition.
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98 Honda Accord with 2.3L has 354,000 miles on it and up until recently ran like it was still new. Have developed erratic idle speeds. When it is cold it idles around 1100-1200 rpm. When the radiator fans are on or the A/C compressor is on it runs around 800-900 rpm. These are normal speeds and great. However, when the engine is warm/hot, in PARK, radiator fans are off, and A/C compressor kicks off, the idle speed drops to what appears to be about a rough idling 500 rpm's and the engine can barely stay running. I've attempted to look for the obvious. I own the Honda Shop Service manual if there is a particular component or most likely suspect area I should start at.
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A very odd hum from the rear (2005 f150 4.2) that occurs at all speeds. Low speed it occurs regardless of load on the drive line. At higher speeds it only happens when i have considerable load on the drive line. All bearings in the diff were replaced less than a year ago when the main pinion bearing went and the diff gears were in pretty dam good condition. Wheel bearings are not getting warm to indicate a wheel bearing. And when i let off the throttle it hums for a few seconds and dissipates as the tension on the drive line goes away. I even looked at the carrier bearing assy and it seems to be in good working order. I live pretty dam far from any type of service so i was just curious before i start trying to trouble shoot this any further.
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I've been having problems with hesitation and a flutter at cruising speeds as well as erratic idle. I have a 2000 F-250 SD with 497K Miles. I was having poor starts during florida winter ( had to plug in a couple times) Had no oil coming out of #2 inject and #8 buzz was weak. Flutter was there and was the original reason I started digging. Right now the only code Im throwing with my chip turned off is a P0470. I cleaned the tube and the sensor but its still throwing.
I have recently replaced all Injectors, Glow Plugs, Valve Cover Gaskets & Harnesses, CPS, Fuel Pump, ICP was replaced before new plug no oil showing.
Mods: 6637 Air Cleaner, TS-6 Chip
Truck has mad power now no problem starting. Its really starting to frustrate me Ford dealer wont troubleshoot unless I remove the chip. I feel like it should be something simple because on the throttle it will set you back in your seat cruising at 70+ no flutter ..... but slow down to 50 55 in traffic and let off the throttle when you start to ease back into it 1500 - 1800 "buck buck buck" if I monitor ICP pressure I see a fluctuation in psi of about 200 -300 psi (1400 to 1200 or 1000 to 800) . If I throttle harder it will stop or let off the throttle. I can feel it do it sometimes before the TC locks so I dont think its a TC issue. I even tested with OD off and I can recreate. The magic area appears to be 1500 - 2000 rpm....
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I have a 2009 F150 4x4, XLT crew 6.5' bed, 5.4 engine. The truck has a very strange erratic throttle behavior from a dead stop through low speeds, shifting seems very strange at low speeds too.
Dealer tried re-flashing the computer, but that didn't fix it. They talk about some valve that sounds to me like it's similar to an EGR function, but I cant remember what he called this valve. He explained the issue as exhaust gasses that are to be recirculated and burned, but the valve is opening at the wrong time, or stuck open or something so it feeds the fire so to speak.
Does any of this sound typical or common? Is this something that's hopefully easier to do than a spark plug change on a 5.4?
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I have a 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B. It is a great car, and I am very happy with it. However, it is making this noise and no one can figure out what it is. I have taken it to the dealership three times and the never hear the noise, and they can't find anything wrong.
The noise occurs mostly in parking lots at parking lot speeds. When I got over rough pavement or speed bumps, I get a clunking noise in the front drivers side wheel well. It sounds as if something is broken or loose at the top of the strut, right at the top of the strut tower. I do not hear the noise on smooth roads or at highway speeds. I can get it to happen in certain parking lots, but the dealer would not go to those places.
Recently I started to get another noise out of the same area. When I back down my driveway (slight down hill grade) and I get towards the bottom, I turn the steering wheel clockwise almost all the way so that I back to the right and can pull out to the left. When I get to the bottom at full turn, I hear a loud clunk and I can feel the car shift around a bit. I can repeat this over and over by pulling back in and then backing out again. It only does it when I back up to the right, not to the left. Today, It did it again but I was on a flat surface, which I had not noticed before. I backed to the right, turned the wheels fully to the right, and it clunks. It also clunked two more times when I shifted into first and started to pull forward out of the turn, almost like it was hanging up on something.
The dealer looked at the car three times. The last time they replaced the stabilizer bar links and bushings, but it made no difference. They say everything is tight and looks normal with no leaks. I am thinking it is either a front axle or front strut that is bad, but they can't confirm. The struts are really expensive on this car, so I don't want to replace them on a whim.
Important details: This is a 6 speed manual car. Turbo 2.5L boxer 4. AWD, with 68K miles. Issue was first noticed about August 2011, seems to be getting worse recently.
What this could be. I love this car, as it is a monster in the snow, which will be flying soon, and I really don't want to be driving with something broken.
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For about a year and a half I have had an "undiagnosable" noise that started as an intermittent metallic buzzing and has evolved into a constant whirring/grinding noise. The tempo of the noise increases when accelerating; occurs at all speeds and at idle. People say they know when I am approaching they can hear my car from about two blocks away. My regular 20 year mechanic checked transmission, replaced timing belt (at 65K; now have about 74K); all idler pulleys; checked alternator; He thinks is is the AC drive pulley on the compressor; Hyundai dealership did not know what it is; laymen have suggested is is a power steering pump, reservoir issue. Power steering fluid level is fine. Otherwise, the performance of the car is fine.
Engine is 3.5L V6; 2004, about 74+K
See more at: [URL] ....
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I have a strange noise that occurs at both highway and surface street speeds. On surface streets at low speeds 45 mph and under, if I let off accelerator to coast and lightly step on accelerator I get this quick sharp noise.
Everything I have read regarding a similar noise is under load and being described as a turbo fart. Clearly I am not under any load. I'm lost.
Definitely not a low woooo noise. Also not a hard accel and release and definitely no chuckle and or popping. The sound is high pitched and quick, roughly .5 to 1 second at most. The sound is more like a "zzzrrp" or "zzzoop". I can replicate the sound 50% of the time easily at speeds under 45 mph by briefly coasting (no accelerator) and lightly tapping the accelerator and releasing or holding. Occasionally this sound will occur at full stop when I step off of the brake pedal and before I step on the accelerator. This sound can also occasionally be heard at highway speeds under similar accelerator conditions though it may be more frequent and I just don't notice it.
Would this condition throw a code? Just received "Total Ford Scan Tool Package Enhanced Bundle SP03" scanner from autoengenuity. Hoping to put it through its paces tomorrow.
Additional info: 145k miles. Injectors serviced by a reputable diesel shop here in Vegas approximately 1.5 years ago. Unknown oil leak where oil is collecting in the valley on top of the engine beneath the turbo. HPOP seals were replaced roughly 1 year ago at another reputable diesel shop here in Vegas. Still have an oil leak (turbo related?) Oil is under 500 miles old and acceptable level. Fuel filter is due for a change but that does not seem to affect condition. Air filter 1000 miles. Thinking about upgrading to AIS severe duty kit soon.
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My '04 Santa Fe (135K miles) has been doing this for a little while.
Between 65 - 75 MPH on the highway, under acceleration, I experience what I can only describe as a "shudder".
I don't believe it's a wheel balance issue, because if I'm coasting or maintaining that speed everything is stable.
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Just bought a 1998 5.4l F-150 Lariat. 136,000 miles.
Question about the overdrive button on trans handle. When I push the button, I don't see any light turn on (or off) and I don't feel any change in the gear ratio or increase/decrease in rpm's. I assume since the button in there marked "overdrive" that the vehicle in fact was equipped with it. Could it be a bad button, fuse, or ?
Also, it just started the shudder/hesitation at certain speeds that I see a lot on these threads. Seems like that is a coil issue as the description in many threads is exactly what I am experiencing to incl the rotten egg/fuel odor. However, it started the same day (not same time, later same day) I decided to push the overdrive button while checking out all the things on the truck.
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We have a 2006 F150 w/new engine, new everything but transmission and cat. converter. When driving in warm weather with the AC on and at low speeds or idle the engine will knock and want to cut out but you rev and turn off the AC and it stops. Only with AC on. We replaced fuel filter, fan throttle took to dealer and updated the software which it stopped for 3 days and started again today. Could it have to do with AC compressor or low refrigerant?
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All - I've got a 2010 LR D4 (UK Spec) and within the past two weeks it has developed a strong shudder and skipping when I am turning at slow speeds. It is worst when I am backing up and turning the wheel (like when backing out of a parking spot). It feels like the problem is coming from the left rear side of the vehicle, but it is a noticeable, strong shudder and skipping.
I have taken it into my local dealer for service, but they have not yet been able to identify the problem.?
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99 F150, 4x4, 5.4L, 4R70W trans.
I am experiencing a shudder at speeds between 45 and 50 when trying to accelerate mildly - it usually occurs after slowing down from a higher speed.
It is similar to the bucking that occurs when you do not downshift a manual trans.
I am guessing that it is the torque convert clutch staying locked or the tranny staying in OD too long. The shudder will go away if I give the truck enough throttle to downshift or simply push the overdrive off button - which forces it to downshift to drive.
What is the probable cause?
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I have a 2000 Ford Excursion with multiple transmission symptoms, so here goes.
The problem doesn't occur until after the vehicle has been driven approximately 100 miles as far as I can tell. At that point, I'll start to notice smoke coming from underneath the vehicle caused by the transmission leaking fluid onto the exhaust from the front of the transmission. At lower speeds, and while idling, the transmission will shake and shudder. It's not noisy or that extreme, but definitely noticeable.
I've also noticed on occasion there is a loss of power at higher speeds when the vehicle is in 4th or 5th gear. This mostly happens when trying to accelerate to pass on the highway. The transmission sounds like it downshifts, but the hard I push the gas pedal, the less power I have. If I push down far enough, the RPM's begin to drop. I've noticed that after I let the vehicle sit turned off for a couple of hours, it begins to work properly again, but it only lasts until the transmission is hot again.
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I hooked up the boat and went out for a tow. I ended up getting a pretty good vibration and thought maybe it was time for balancing the trailer tires. As it turns out I needed two new tires as they were at the wear bars (cheap crappy bias ply tires) so I ended up buying 4 trailer tire radials and had them balanced.
As it turns out I have what I guess is a shudder at slow speeds and also can feel it at other speeds as well. A way to explain it is that it sort of feels like you are driving over the rumble strips on the side of the road but really small ones.
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I have an '05 F150 5.4L with 110k miles on it. Bought it used about 2-3 years ago and have had on-going ignition system problems. The current problem is a significant shudder/shake/vibration that occurs when driving 50mph+ (easy to reproduce around 65-70) on the freeway, when starting up a minor, but noticeable incline. This is an incline that doesn't require much additional throttle, and this trouble occurs with cruise control on and off. the truck starts shuddering pretty rough during the incline. However, if I release the accelerator (and go up incline with slightly lower speed) or give lots of gas on accelerator the shudder usually stops. The shudder always clears after the incline when returning to flat road and just cruising.
This occurred on a recent trip a few times and I pulled the following codes (in order):
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring): misfire on cylinder 2
I have since purchased and replaced the coil on #2. This did not resolve the problem. I have replaced coil on #6 in the last year...
Because I saw a suggestion somewhere on the net around this problem while searching, that this could be related to OD, I tried disabling OD and enabled OD on an incline today to test after replacing COP on #2 and it seemed to resolve the issue to turn OD off. Not sure if related...?
Other observation: Cab of truck often smells of gas just after starting the truck. Mentioned this to the shop, but they didn't find anything obvious.
Short history of codes and work that has been done:
Sometime in early 2011: Ford service dept did this work.
First failure was coil bad on #7. Tech swapped 7 & 8 to verify the problem followed the coil. Then when the problem DID follow the coil, he replaced #8 with new.
05/2011 MacKenzie Ford changed all plugs
12/2011 - swapped out COP on #7.
02/2012 - P0306 - Now, COP #6 is reported as bad.
November/December 2012
P2104 P Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) - Forced Idle
P2112 P TAC Stuck Close
P2111 TAC Stuck Open
I did throttle body clean - removed it and used TB cleaner. replaced...
Late December 2012 - while driving on freeway at speeds 50+, but easily reproduced around 60 after starting up a slight incline. symptom is heavy shudder/shake. Possibly resolved by turning OD off.
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring) : Misfire on cylinder 2
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