Golf IV R32 :: Engine Sputter Through A Couple Gears After A Cold Start
Mar 11, 2010
I bought an R about a month ago now with a Stage II VF Supercharger kit on it. The guy I bought it from told me that it would sputter through a couple gears after a cold start b/c of what he thought was the air sensor adjusting to the temperature.
Well it's been getting warmer over the last couple days (high 50s) and it's still doing it. After I rev it up and get through a couple gears it's fine...it's great actually. There's no CEL or any other warnings on.
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On my 7.3 super cab, I changed the fuel filter last Friday and now on cold start the service engine soon light comes on for a couple minutes (approximately) on a cold start. No other issues. Tried scanning with my scan gauge 2 and no codes. (of coarse I think that thing is a joke for scanning). Not sure if this means anything, but last week before I changed the filter I thought I smelled diesel fuel on a couple different occasions. If I actually did it may not even be related.
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I was driving my Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4 wheel drive single cab when it sputtered a couple of times I came to a stop light and the car stopped I tried starting it to no avail. I also noticed I did not hear the fuel pump run as normal when truck is in accessory position . When my buddy showed up I had him try and start the truck as I banged on the gas tank and it would run when I stopped so did the truck...
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Cold start issues that my 2006 2.0T Passat is having. A few weeks ago, during a stretch of cold weather (10-20F), my Passat would sputter when I tried starting it up. It would either start and immediately shut off, would attempt to turn over, and generally on the 3rd attempt would turn over and run fine. I was only having this issue in the morning, and it would start fine when I would leave work (9 hour shifts).
I got my battery tested, and it proved to be failing. Replaced it. A few days later cylinder 4 started to misfire. I replaced all spark plugs and coil packs (85k on the car). During this service discovered that my oil had gotten some moisture in it and have off-white residue, flushed oil, replaced with new filter. A few days go by and I get code P2181 (cooling system performance). I cleared this out earlier today and it hasn't come back (50 miles later).
Are things just starting to go at the same time, or might there be another underlying issue? I have plans to flush the tranny and do the timing belt/coolant/water pump in the next month.
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Normally when cold the car would start and rest at about 1,200 maybe 1,300 for a couple minutes then go down to its normal idle point, recently when starting it when cold, it sounds and looks like it wants to do that but just goes straight to its normal idle point, its only started this a couple does ago and has me a little worried now. could there be anything wrong ?
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I have a 2005 volvo s40 ion a cold day when i start car and take off it bogs, there is no pep it seems like its struggling, after a couple minutes of driving she is back to normal. I replaced spark plugs - no difference...
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Summary of Events:
Lower radiator hose decided to disconnect itself.
Stopped and had car towed home.
Connected hose and filled coolant system.
Car is hesitant to start and takes a couple seconds of cranking.
Misfires in cylinder 3, and a few in cylinder 5, no other codes.
New OEM plugs, no change.
Swapped coil packs around, no change.
Idle is rough but at speed, everything is smooth.
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So, my check engine light has been on for months. I knew that I needed a new oxygen sensor (block 1-pre-cat), so I replaced it today after the car began to sputter and misfire. Well, I thought that would fix the problem, but it hasn't. Some of the hesitation is gone, but the sputtering is still very bad. I'm going to replace the spark plugs tomorrow and see if that works. I was also told to clean out the catalytic converter, but I don't know how to take it off. It wouldn't hurt to just bang out all the debris. Any DIY on taking off a catalytic converter for a 2000 VW Golf GTI 1.8T?
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I've been driving my daughter's Nissan for the past week, trying to figure out what's going on.
Car has about 124K miles. Automatic transmission. Two things happening, neither with total consistency:
(1) Sometimes, primarily from a cold start, car will not shift gears. You'll go past the speed and RPMs where you would have expected the gear to shift, but engine whines on. When you let off the gas, it then shifts. Same from 2nd to 3rd. While in this mode, would not seem to stay in 4th - would briefly shift in (for about a second) , then return to 3rd.
(2) Other item - more frequently, primarily from a warm start, but also from a cold start - car shifts gears at proper time, but there is a distinctive "jolt" as it shifts from 1st to 2nd; not really noticeable in higher gears and the "jolt" can vary in intensity. Almost feels like a broken motor mount, but don't think that's it.
Doesn't happen with scenario (1) described above. Also, while in this mode, I noticed, while highway driving, that if I was at the bottom of a long hill, going 60 and floored it, there would be no power surge. It was not downshifting into 3rd like it should. I would have a long and slow acceleration , with the tachometer holding steady at about 2700 RPMs, not climbing as you would expect.
But, if I was going about 50, then you would get normal hill climb acceleration.My mechanic - whom I've dealt with for a long time and trust - had wanted me to drive it awhile and see what was happening before bringing it in. When describing these symptoms to him, his reaction was "Hmmm - doesn't sound good" but without the quick diagnosis I'm accustomed to from him.
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So I have a 2005 GTI 1.8t and I just recently had a new fuel filter/fuel pump installed.. Now ever morning when I go to start it it starts really hard.. once it's starts it runs fine it just takes me a couple cranks to get it started....
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Have problem with Golf IV 1998 1.6 74KW.
Ignition is troublesome, takes few seconds to start. RPM stays still at 800 idle but when pressing down gas pedal it takes few seconds to accelerate to 2000+. While driving engine starts to sputter under 1500-2000, happens after every gear shift. 2000+ does not sputter much but car still feels very weak.
Everything works fine at the morning or several hours after last ride. Problem starts when car hasn't run in 15min - ~1hour, problem seems to go away only in several hours.
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2000 GTI GLS 2.0L ... I understand I need to replace the Ignition Coil Pack on my car. I have looked on ECS Tuning to find the coil pack, but from all the pictures I see of other people coil packs they look nothing like what mine do. So I'm wondering if they are different for my specific car? So the issue that I have is my engine sputters sometimes, but more so when is wet outside. Its only cylinder 2 misfiring currently, and I replaced my Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump already in the past 4 or 5 months. Also a local shop had done some work recently and I know they had replaced the spark plugs. So I'm just wondering what coil packs I need for my car, and how I would go about replacing them. From what I saw online with other 2.0L (They weren't GTIs tho) was that the coild pack was behind the SIA pump or something like that, and they are a small black box. It looks to me that my coil packs are inline above the spark plugs and cylinders?
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I've had 2 Elantra 2012 models 1 a gls the second a limited. As far as transmission issues both Elantra's from a cold start after allowing RPM's to idle down before taking off they both have started shifting hard going from 1st to second gear 1st car was around 8-9 k miles now 2nd started at 3 k miles. Since owning 2 cars same make same year same transmission and many times to dealer 1st car ended with Transmission replaced 2nd has now started doing the same thing they reset adaptive and next day did it again its now back at dealer waiting for them to diagnose again.
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I have an '02 Tracker and I've noticed if I have several accessories running, that my engine will start to sputter and come to the verge of stalling when I come to a stop. It happens if I have the heat/air and radio or charging my phone on together. What is the cause and/or remedy for this? I've changed the alternator a few yrs. back, but it still continued.
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My 2002 Windstar SEL has been giving me a fit and I`m not getting any codes as to why. Here`s the 2 main issues. Clicking when i go to start up in a.m. if it`s below 50 degrees. ( Battery has been checked and all is o.k. or so I was informed). As long as it`s warm it starts fine every time. Also,it seems like the least bit of wet on the underside will cause it to spit and sputter and the check engine light will start blinking until it sits and dries for a while. (A very shallow puddle less than 6 inches deep at low speed or even the automatic car wash that sprays the undercarriage).
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I have a 04.5 gli 1.8t. When I start the car in the am and give it some gas to go it sputters for a couple seconds and then goes just fine and I have no more issues with it. Where to start looking? No trouble codes thrown either...
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I just purchased a 2012 CC-R 2.0T Manual. One issue I'm having is during a cold start, the engine makes a very loud noise that doesn't resemble a higher rpm that usually comes with a warm up stage. It sounds like something is grinding, followed by a vacuum/sucking noise. It lasts about 20sec and then idles normally. It only happens during cold start.
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I've noticed something very strange today with my Lexus. It was -8, in Toronto, and I had to start my car quickly and drive it. The engine was still cold, but I had to leave early. The odd thing which happened, is that after driving slowly and coming to a stop, for a stop sign, the car wouldn't go, though it was on drive. The car was still cold. It seemed, that the tranny wouldn't switch gears.
I brought the car to a total stop, and put it to a parking position, then drove again for a couple of feet, and the tranny wouldn't go again. I waited for the car to warm up a little bit, and the care drove normally after. Is it normal like that? Do we have to wait for the car to warm up? Or there's something wrong with my Tranny.
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2009 Hyundai Accent w/~90k miles
The other day my car failed, showing all the signs of a bad alternator (battery light on, lights dimming/flickering, etc.).Had a mechanic look at it and it was definitely the alternator - the bracket had even broken - as well as the battery.After replacing, though, it still has a problem with charging the battery, at least on initial start.Basically, when you start the car, the battery light comes on immediately. Hit the accelerator or drive 15-20 feet and the battery light goes out and the alternator starts charging again.
The mechanic thinks it is a wiring problem and said that would cost 800+ to fix. He suggested I just live with it. Does his diagnosis seem correct? Are there other things I should look at and/or test?
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Okay so my 2003 Jetta GLI normally starts without a problem. But it seems like whenever it gets cold (below about 40) it doesn't even try to start. I turn the key and nothing happens, the engine doesn't crank. All the lights turn on like normal and they're not dim so I don't think it's the battery. It'll still start if I roll-start it, but there isn't any sort of hill for a few miles. Normally once it warms up later in the day it'll start up.
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This might just be car engine in general regardless of make or model, but upon a cold start, my GTI engine whines or buzzes for approximately 1 second before it stops. I had a 2009 Toyota Corolla that also did this, but I had it fixed with a TSB due to the oil not reaching the VVT-I gears or something in time. It's not the same noise in my GTI, but I was wondering about same sound almost every time upon a cold start?
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