Golf IV R32 :: Engine Shakes / Shudders A Lot
Jan 13, 2014
R32 with 97,000 on it. UM tune. Engine shakes/shudders a lot, no CEL. Its hard to get into gear. I bought DLI motor mounts hoping that the problem is just broken motor mounts.
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For over a year, the truck took 5-6 seconds of cranking to start, but always started. This morning it started, but shakes, coughs, and vibrates like hell. It revs up but still sounds like its hitting only on a few. replaced ciols many times over the years, but this sounds different.
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My engine (2011 gti mt ~2000mi) occasionally shudders when coming to a complete stop, just for the last second or two when I've thrown it in neutral. Is this something I should be concerned about, and to what extent.
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Car was warming up and I went to "check" the oil. As soon as I pulled the dipstick out a little all I heard was a sucking type sound and then the engine started to shake and make sounds like it was bogging down. Almost like it wasnt getting enough air. As soon as the dip stick went back into the motor, things became normal again. I tried one more time in order to see whats up as this is the first time something like this has happened. Same exact thing. Engine started to shake and make gagging noises until i put the dipstick back in.
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I drive a 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8T 6speed which in South Africa is called 1.8T-R. The car shakes at idle and after driving for a while it cuts off power, when restarting it takes some time cranking before starting. After starting the EPC light comes on and the rev goes up to almost 2000rpm. It runs on an AUQ Engine.
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I have a issue with my golf 1.9tdi when i start the engine it shakes really bad and feels very rough when sitting in the cab steering wheel vibrates really Bad and engine looks like its going to fly out of the car but when i apply throttle the vibrations go only happens when idling.
What it could be i have done a Diesel Purge, changed the fuel filter, cleaner the EGR Valve, changed the coolant temp sensor, checked the injector loom for continuity and resistance everything was fine, checked resistance on injectors readings was all the same, flywheel seems fine when running (no movement) and no change when i dip the clutch, engine mounts i changed the right hand side one all the rest are fine and not penetrated.
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I drive a 2005 Jetta IV 1.8T R-line. The engine shakes/vibrates at Idle and when I drive.
Also when if I drive at high speeds when I stopped the engine just switches off when idling.
What could be the cause?
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I have a 2013 Golf TDI with 2070 miles on it. For around 2-3 weeks, I've noticed that it intermittently will idle rough, shakes, etc, as if it is about to stall out, but stays running and drives normal. I figured it was a typical Diesel thing and wasn't too worried about it. However, today, this happened, and I got an engine light. Yikes! I made an appointment for it but need to wait till after the 4th for it to be looked at. What's up here? Is it a regen cycle? Timing issues? Am I doomed with my Golf TDI?
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Having some issues with my 2003 Alero 4 cylinder. Upon start the entire engine shudders and the check engine light flashes. I have to turn it off and turn it on and it will stop most of the time. I've taken it in and the mechanics can't get it to reproduce the same issue for them. Just replaced all four plugs, boots, ignition coil.
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My car has 120.000 miles and regular maintenence done on schedule. Yesterday, after a 1000 mile / 4 day trip, after a break at a service station, the engine srudded violently (for being a prius, it felt like a diesel) while cranking up durin acceleration.
The check Engine light came on.
Using Can-view, I noted these DTC codes: P0101 C3100 P0000
And cleared the memory.
The check Engine switched off.
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So I finally reached what I considered my break in period at 800 miles and now when I give the car full throttle, it shudders like it's going to stall. I can go as fast as I want at any RPMs but when I give it full throttle it nearly goes into a stall til I let off.
I do have APR STG1 and it is in the correct setting (93 OCT) I tried putting it to stock & running it like that on my drive home & still no go, check engine light is still on.
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So my cars idle has been revving slightly from 9 to 10. siting idle sometimes it will do the same but from 10-11. when it does it shudders the car slightly.
So I stop by a local auto parts and get the check engine scanned.....it comes back as Idle control too high.
So What is that? The guy working there who seems to have some knowledge of turbos said it was either some control piece or a vacuum leak.
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Immediately after I fill my 2006 Hyundai Accent with gas, the engine shudders, then dies. The only way to keep it running is to press down the accelerator and rev the engine up for a few minutes, then slowly back off. My mechanic said I need an new fuel pump, so he replaced it, but it didn't solve anything. I still have the same problem every time I fill up. What's causing this and did I just pay for an unnecessary fuel pump?
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I've noticed lately that my Mk4 Jetta isn't accelerating the way it used to. It's an '03 5-speed 2.0L, and while the engine idles more or less normally as far as I can tell, when the car is in gear and I press the accelerator, it shudders and "slips", like an an automatic with a bad transmission.
I've checked things out with my OBD2 reader and it's not reporting any codes, no trouble indicator lights, etc., but it's definitely not responding the way it should. I just had it in for a tune-up recently, thinking it was an engine problem, but I don't think that fixed it.
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My Expedition started to shudder on a drive when I got it up to 55 MPH. I drove for about 15 minutes and parked well I drove it again and it started to do the same thing. Now the Service Engine Light came on. What the cause could be. (2000 Ford Expedition EB Ed. 5.4l Triton).
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After the car has been sitting for a while (say about 8 hours or so) I will turn the car on and I will always wait about 30 seconds or so before moving off just to let the oil start moving around. If I go to take off the engine shudders and sounds like its about to stall and the engine revs drop to almost around 300-400 revs then suddenly come back up.
Now I drive a manual car and I know there will be people there that will say I obviously cant use the clutch very well. This happens from anywhere from a flat to a decent incline in rain or sunshine, night and day, and all different external temperatures.
But that isn't all, the kicker is if I give the throttle a quick jab to bring the revs to around 1200-1500 revs, go to take off and the car is fine. ONLY happens once after sitting around for a while, basically after the engine has a good time to cool off to completely cold. Little side note, this has been getting more frequent over the last 3 months.
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My car shudders (headlights flicker, dash lights flicker, and car feels like it's choking/almost stalling) when I sit at an idle. Today it got super bad and the abs light flickered on and off when ever it would "shudder".
Live in so-cal where we just had heavy rain the last 2 days so I'm thinking it may be a wet ground somewhere but I'm not an electrician so I wouldn't know for sure.
Car info: 2.0 golf
Nothing done to it except straight pipe and intake...
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My '96 Honda Accord has about 174,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago I checked my oil and the oil was black and way above the full level. I had also been adding 8-9 ounces of coolant previous to checking the level.
My coolant temp gauge has never gone beyond normal range. Two mechanics said I had a blown head gasket. I decided to change the oil and filter and only put in 4 quarts of oil. The level is only up about 1/4 inch level and the rest of the dipstick is completely clear. My friends also checked and it is so clean, like there is no oil in the car, but I have no signs of oil leaking. My oil pressure gauge shows normal pressure.
I continue to add 2-3 ounces of coolant each week. Early in the morning the engine shudders a minute or two before calming to a normal idle. I only drive around town a little, 75 miles a week. Can I continue running the car in this condition? If so, for how long? There is nothing else wrong with the car. Is it worth repairing?
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I have a Toyota Tundra that shudders under acceleration. Its an A/T two wheel drive. Engine rpm remains constant, vehicle shudders.
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Car Details: 2004 Olds Alero GL, 250K miles, well maintained.
Our car recently started shuddering/vibrating at speeds over 45mph. Once the shudder begins, it continues for the remainder of the drive. It doesn't feel like it's in the wheels or the steering column, and there are no warning lights on the dash. It seems to be more intense when braking, as if something were fighting the inertia of the vehicle. There's no difference in the sensation when driving around corners.
After a few minutes of driving, there seems to be a burning rubber smell that is concentrated near the windshield in front of the driver's seat. I suspect that something is damaging a hose with heat or friction. I'll be taking it in to a mechanic.
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Saturday I stuck the ex in a snow drift, rocked it back and forth in low range about six or seven times, once i got it out the engine shudders in overdrive. If i lock out OD it still shudders under load, It starts at around 40 mph, if I push it up to 60 and let off the throttle it stops and is smooth until I start to climb a hill. It never did this before It is a 2001 V10 with 143,000 miles, where to start looking ....
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