Golf IV R32 :: Engine Light Came On
Aug 7, 2013
So, the engine light is on again and after some pretty intensive TLC with a trusted mechanic. She's also not pulling like she used to. I'm thinking turbo, but need to get back into working in the garage again -- I was a bit of a hack to start anyway!
What engine specific and overall maintenance todos should I put on the to-learn-and-schedule for-some-coming-weekend list. I would like to rebuild an engine one day, but have only witnessed two in person as the bystander and have a lot to learn.
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I was driving down the highway and hit a "dip" that wasn't marked, and shortly after the engine lite came on. I have a skid plate and the oil level and temp is good.
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I have a new 2015 VW Golf TSI Auto, it only has about 1200kms on it. This morning my girlfriend was driving it to the train station and the "EPC" and engine light both came on, she said it was very sluggish after that. I went to pickup the car and it drove normally without any lights on to the dealer - they told me to just monitor it and if it comes back on then I should schedule an appointment. I am just worried because this car is brand new.
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So i was driving to school today and my check engine light went on.. I still don't know whats wrong i' m going to go check after school. But for few days i heard this rattling sound coming from my engine..
Could that set off my engine light?
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Car has had a hard time starting battery is charged but still needed extra power to get the car started this morning as I am driving car shut off at every stop now it has a rough idle with both the check and esp light on any have this problem before.
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So recently bought vagcom to do a bunch of changes. Have a cel and the code is intake manifold flap position sensor. I have looked around and lots of ppl saying they took car in and vw fixed no issues blah blah blah. Well I have an issue. Cuz my car is not covered under warranty any more. And so I called local vw dealer and they told me I need to replace my throttle body? I thought I had to change my intake manifold and flapper motor.
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This whole time I thought it was a bad or dirty MAF and it's not as I replaced it 3 times. Car hessitetes and throws a ESP light on so now I think it's problem with abs or brakes.
I have engine code:
-16486 P0102 Air mass meter G70 signal too low
I do have a VF MAF harness extension cause used to be S/C maybe that's why the signal is low, then 2 abs codes:
-01314045 Engine control module (ECM) check DTC memory there isn't much info on this but I heard a lot of people replace their ABS control module cause VW says most have short in them but in ECS tuning they don't have one for R32 like R32 doesn't have it. Does R32 have it.
-00495 ESP - sensor unit, voltage supply
I tried clearing all the codes but comes right back followed by a hesitation.
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I've got a '13 CW Loaded 4DR. Its got just under 40K miles. Tune wise its the STG2+ from I.E., been tuned for maybe 10K miles. I was fueling up and I always tighten the cap correctly as Oregon has Fuel Transfer Technicians, AKA People who don't care whether your fuel cap is on right or not. So soon after the fuel cap light came on, pulled over and tightened it again. Light went away. Next fuel fill up, same thing. Third fuel up, same fuel cap light and then CEL came on.
Ive got VAGcom and checked for codes and got the small leak detected twice and then the large leak detected code. So I was thinking it was just a cap. I swapped gas caps with my brothers MK4 R32 to maybe get lucky and the code returns. Thats impossible for it to fall too, so I dug deeper. I checked the N80 valve as I remember those being an issue on 1.8t and old Flows, So i pinched off the line to it and performed the test again, and bam, no more code for large leak.
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My check engine light just came on. the engine seems to be running fine. I used my memo scanner and these codes came up. I am not sure what they mean. What exactly needs to be fixed? 2010 MK6 GTI
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Coming and going away on the next to 2nd engine start. Usually coming on after a hot run, or a hot day. Stays off for a month, then comes back. Runs fine, no symptoms, no other noticeable abnormalities.
Besides Ross Tech, VCDS, are there other softwares or devices that work for diagnostic and maintenance purposes? I have no interest in re-programming factory functions, just maintenance.
2008 R32
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Just popped on at exactly 97,600k, What could be some of the potential snafu's? Or is it just more preventative as it needs proper service. Will be taking it to Dealer, but just curious as to what it could be.
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I was just at work tonight and went out and started my car for it to warm up (it is -20) and go back inside for about 15 mins, I come out and as I am walking back to my car. I notice tons of exhaust is blowing out from the bank puffing like a steam engine and idling insanely rough with the RPM gauge at about 900 RPM with a EPC code. I immediately shut off the car. Cautiously turn the car back on. Car is idling normally, EPC code is gone, rev it a bit. Everything seems fine.
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Bought an R32 yesterday. used of course.. was doing fine feels like a brand new clutch. got it from a ford dealership, and the check engine light just turned on. I will go back for the 14 day policy but i was wondering if it could be my clutch.
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The past two days when I went to warm up my car, when I got back in it to leave I noticed the engine coolant light flashing. I checked the book and it just says if its flashing to contact the dealer. I have already done so for my next maintenance anyway. It has been around 10 degrees out both times when i started it. 2012 GTI with 9300 miles. Also, if you turn the car off, and start it back up, it does not come back on..
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Four days after buying my 2010 gti, the check engine light appeared for the first time. I believe thats VW's way of saying, 'Welcome back to the family.
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So the day before my 20,000 mile service was scheduled my check engine light came on. I took the car into the dealer and told them the light was on. When I got the call that the car was done they said that the EGR valve was bad and they ordered me another one. They said that they cleared the code and that the part would be in this week. Since they cleared the light it has not come back on. My question is did I lose my Revo stage one tune in my TDI? The dealer never said anything so I didn't want to ask if they had reset my ECU.
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I have a 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8 5Speed. With issues.
The problem that I first had (and have always had since): While driving under 30mph but at random times, my ASR / ESP light and engine light will come on and my car will lurch and lose power (I can't go above 20mp at that point this is the limp mode that traction control puts you in I think). I have to pull over and restart my car. And then the ASR / ESP light is gone and the engine light stays on for a day or so. After restarting my car everything seems to function fine.
My car would also chug a bit if I didn't let it warm up in the morning it acted as though it would die. After sitting for a minute it would be fine.
My mechanic initially thought there might be an air flow issue. He found a hose that was cracked at the end but said I didn't really need to replace it. He taped it up and used a clamp to keep in place. I have no (ok little) doubt that it is air tight.
When the problem continued he thought it might be my MAF sensor. He had a used one and replaced mine with it. It seemed to work, I didn't have the problem again for some time. But it eventually came back.
Also, I started to find that when I came to a stop light my car would idle roughly. If I put the car in park it was perfectly fine. Later, I had an even more serious problem. My car needed to warm up for about 10 minutes before it would shift out first. After plenty of internet searches on sites like this, everything pointed to the N92 solenoid. I purchased all 9 solenoids online and had someone replace them. That seems to have fixed my shifting out of first problem.
I still had the ASR / ESP issue though. So I bought a new MAF and replaced that myself (very easy). I was positive that would be then end of my problems. But nope no change.
Recently I also find that if I slow down quickly, sometimes my car just strait up dies. After restarting all is well.
So if this isn't a MAF issue, what are the other likely culprits? Vacuum leak somewhere? How much would you expect to pay to have that diagnosed (I think they have machines that can test everything and locate points of failure)? Air-flow meter? Transmission control unit? I have heard that they are relatively cheap to replace Engine control unit?
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Last night I was cruising at about 55 when the EPC light came on. At first, I didn't feel anything unusual, but shortly after exiting onto a surface street the engine was definitely running on three cylinders. I immediately turned around and drove the four or five miles home (still on three cylinders) and parked it.
My car is a 2011 with 21K miles. I had an APR flash (Stage 1) done about 2 months ago. (I'm not saying that there's necessarily a connection.) What might be going on? I plan to take it to the dealer tomorrow after resetting to stock program (though I understand it can still be detected). Is it okay to drive it? (Assuming that it will start.)
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So for the past few weeks my check engine light has been on. I have a mechanic friend that scanned the computer and says i have a running lean code.... says it could be anything. So i have been driving the car since and now the epc light and drive train lights are coming on... car revs up and down and sounds like is going to die... got the car scanned and says something about the throttle position sensor... before all the lights started coming on i got my fuel pump replaced..... could a faulty fuel pump be the cause? I had my mechanic, clean the throttle body and it ran good for a few days... now the problem is back... I have a 2004 1.8 gti. Do i have to replace the throttle position sensor? Fuel pump again? New throttle body again? I read somewhere on here that a guy replaced some wires near the ECM and the problem went away...
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I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 and my Immobilizer (car & key) dash light came on, along the check engine, battery, and a few lights when tried to start my car to move it. I've been doing my research and know the problem is the communication between an RFID chip in my remote key and the key cylinder. My current remote key is old so I wonder if I need a new key. Now I do have a spare remote key (hardly used) and valet key which I could have overnighted to me.
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When you give it a decent amount of acceleration it starts to hesitate and kind of jump, the engine light flashes it kinda sounds like it want to stall. I'm not to good with the turbo motors. The car is a 2000 golf.
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