My cel is once again starring me in the face ... P0018 is the code I got followed by "engine coolant - high input". Where I can buy a book/chart that explains these codes. I'm assuming it is some sort of sensor gone bad but not sure exactly.
View 1 RepliesI went to my local Autozone today to have a code read and get the freeze frame data. I got a code P0118, Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input. I called the dealer but they are out of stock on the sensor. Would it be a problem to use an after market sensor? I'm just concerned about the quality and accuracy of the sensor.
View 5 RepliesEngine light is one for about a month and finally got an ODB II.
Today it reads the error code [b]P0118 which is [b]Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
The coolant sensor reads 45 C when the key is on "on" position at about 2:30 pm this afternoon and I start the engine about 2 mins the temp jumps to 68 C, are these some logical number?
Does it mean the bad temperature sensor and I need to replace it?
So my mom recently bought a 2003 Elantra (75K miles, auto trans) and within a few days the CEL came on. She took it in to PepBoys and had them hook it to their scanner to get the codes out of it. The only code that came up was P0113 Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor high input. I've done a little research on the net but there is a lot of random info for this code out there. Is the IAT a separate sensor or is it combined in with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor(if this car even has a MAF) or combined in with the MAP sensor? I've read on the net that it could be any of these 3, I think it's combined into the MAP.
I've also read that this code could be caused by a bad IAT, bad O2 sensor, an exhaust leak, bad wiring/ground(I checked the wiring/grounds visually and everything seems ok) or many other things. If it's as simple as replacing one of the sensors I can do that myself, I just don't want to go randomly buying things and either it be the wrong part or have it be the right part but not fix the problem. The car runs great, even with the CEL on. Yesterday when she stopped by my house I disconnected the battery for a couple minutes and reconnected it, started the car & no CEL. She drove the car for about 125-150 miles before the light came back on.
I have a problem with my sonata NF 2006 the check engine light turn on like 2 days ago and give me the p2128 code say Accelerator pedal Position Circuit - High Input something like that i cheek all the cable off the throttle body to the ecu and i don't see any cable broken how I can check the accelerator pedal sensor? I see in one page a texting the sensor whit a multi miter but was for santa fe and the cable don't have the same colors . I need the accelerator pedal cable diagram and i don't have it ....
View 2 RepliesCheck engine light is on, this is the code that came up when checked at OReillys, "P0113 Intake Air temperature sensor 1 Circuit high input". Earlier took it to repair shop, he did not give the code, some sensor needs to be changed (don't know if he came up with same code). He had erased the code but it came back on within minutes. Wanted to check if there is any cheaper way to fix this. This is a windstar van.
View 15 RepliesI'm getting a weird code on my engine it's p1298 which is electric load detector circuit high input and I'm also getting 3 misfire codes but the car runs great what can I do to fix these.
View 10 RepliesSo i got the UM tune done to my car then went and got my TT cams installed. After giving me car the 50 miles to adjust for the cams i get a CEL P0103 Mass or volume air flow circuit high input. Checked the connections around the maf and im noting seeing any broken vac lines or anything out of the ordinary.
Cleaned the maf and cleared the code but the CEL popped back up, got a new maf just because I like spending money on things i dont need and the CEL is still there, low speed or high speed it will pop on.
Is there anything I am missing that could be causing this problem or something i can try other then take to the place that did my cams?
2004 r32
123k miles on it
UM NA tune
carbonio CAI
TT cams
Test pipe and neuspeed cat back exhaust
2007 with 3.3L at 30k miles (bought new and with regular oil changes) starting throwing p0018's intermittently. No noticeable difference in way the car drives: idle seems fairly normal (only once recently felt the idle briefly stumble at a red light), fuel consumption regular, no power problems. There has been a engine tapping sound at low speeds only heard until the engine warms up after a couple of miles (I'm in Florida, temp is regular in the 70-80's), and the sound is not evident during the start-up, only while accelerating slowly.
On occasion, with hard acceleration, the "ESC 0ff" light comes on, not affected by the ESC off switch, and stays off after one key turn.
Brought to Hyundai dealer who, same day, requested doing an oil/filter change (Firestone had done a change 900 miles/3 months prior) claiming that a wrong oil filter could cause blocked oil galleys. They did the change (and also, no charge, repaired a valve cover leak) and 6 days later called to tell me the car was fine. No mention of the car having been low on oil or evidence of sludging. Also, no mention of whether or not the filter that was replaced was the incorrect filter for the vehicle. (I called Firestone and they claim they regular work with Hyundai to ensure proper filters are used). No mention of why they kept the car for an additional 5 days after the oil change before calling either (except for repairing the valve cover leak with a rocker cover gasket), and although their invoice indicated that they drove the car 5 miles, it was evident from the invoice that the mile in/miles out were the same. I did notice that there was about 2-3 gallons of fuel consumption though when I picked the car up.
6 miles from the dealer after pickup (2 key turns) CEL returns, with same code. I have now driven the car about 100 miles in the last 20 days with the CEl going off and on 4 times now, and each time the same code. I have never had the CEL come on (or go off) while driving, only at start-up. (Longest trip has been 10 miles, top speed 50mph, so a lot of key turns). The longest the CEL has stayed off was for a 30 mile span. The tapping sound mentioned above continues too.
I'm hesitating returning to the dealer. The 10 yr warranty might be a problem for a variety of reasons, and I realise finding the fix for this code could get expensive. But I do want to know what the dealer found out doing their GDS (and via eyes on inspection) and nothing was mentioned on the invoice besides the gasket leak. I'm especially concerned about the timing chain and tensioner.
Is it acceptable to make an appointment with the service manager to find out what they ruled out (and then take that information to a regular mechanic)? Given the problem is regularly intermittent over the last 100 miles, is it still possible that something might be seriously wrong with the engine and damage might be done to the engine by driving it? When I first brought the car to the dealer, they said they couldn't do anything with it because the CEL had gone out. Fortunately, within a mile from the dealer the CEL returned and they took it in. Presently, the light is out again.
My 2002 v6 is throwing a cel that reads p0018. What the code description is? the general ob2 scanner mentions a coolant sensor issue but I did some research and i saw where it is a timing sensor for the newer hyundais.
View 4 RepliesFew weeks ago I threw a CEL for an engine coolant temp. It went away and came back now as a P3081, I don't recall that being the code before. But from what I understand It is a simple sensor that I can replace myself. Car is running fine and not overheating.. it did however overheat the last time It threw a CEL but that was also stop and go traffic with AC on.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2003 Santa Fe, V4, 2.4L.
So the other day, my CEL and I got it scanned: p0320, or "Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction."
It was accompanied with two symptoms:
1. The car will sometimes sputter on startup, and the tachometer will be zeroed out. I have to turn the car off and turn it back on, and it will start normally, albeit with a bit of a misfire on idle.
2. The car will sometimes die while at a stop. Just like the first symptom, if I turn the car off and turn it back on, it will work normally.
I looked on here, and it seemed like everyone solved a p0320 by replacing the Ignition Failure Sensor. So that's exactly what I did. But nothing changed; I still have the symptoms, and the CEL came back on and is still reading p0320.
What should be my next step? Could it be faulty wires that give power to the Ignition Failure Sensor?
I cleaned my k&n air filter on my 02 passat 1.8 turbo let it dry oiled it very lightly, and 50 miles later I get a check engine light on, pulled the code 16486 and it says Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Low Input. Cleared the code put a frame in until I can get it filter. Why that would throw me that code, k&n oil gumming up my sensor??
View 2 RepliesI have been driving my car with a known P0016 and P0018 codes for quite a while. I know, I know.... Car was not worth sinking a lot of money into so we decided to run it till it died. It has run great for about a year but now it finally has problems. Day before it ran great. First thing in the morning it tried to start and then stalled. It will try and start and putt, putt two or three times and die. I think it has jumped timing. Before I trash it I would like to make sure that is the problem. My question is, can I check for a jumped timing chain at home without doing a major disassembly? I don't have access to a VAGCOM. If that is what happened I will get rid of it and move on but I would like to verify that is really what happened. There is no valve clatter so I don't think it jumped enough to damage the heads.
View 6 RepliesReplaced my Crankshaft position sensor and cleared my codes but I'm still getting a P0016 and P0018 error. Car runs fine at the moment. Can't smog and therefore register it till I figure it out. Next step is replacing the Camshaft position sensor.
View 3 RepliesI just did my 60k km service at dealer. And in the next morning, I found out that they pour too much G12 coolant into the reservoir. It is way more above the maximum line. I have booked another service appointment on next monday, but I am just wondering if the car still safe to drive?
View 2 RepliesI just had my 1998 Passat 1.8T with 97000 miles checked since the engine light came on. It started this afternoon and the car ran just fine. I took it to an Advance Auto and after they plugged in the OBD tool it came back with the code PO 116. Engine Coolant temp CKT Range/Performance.
The fellow decided to clear the code and then the car would not start. I waited for about 15 minutes and the car started with some hesitation and the light was out. When I got home I let the car sit for a few seconds and it started perfectly like nothing ever happened.
Does that mean that the temperature coolant sensor is bad??? I have a Hanes manual and apparently is not too difficult to do. Would I have to partially drain the radiator?
About 3 weeks ago, I purchased a 2001 Accent GL 4dr 5spd from a friend of mine. A few days later, the CEL came on. I went to O'Reilly and got the code pulled, it was for a cam sensor input LOW. I replaced the sensor and was on my way.
Yesterday after starting the car for the first time for a few days (I wasn't driving because it needed a clutch), the light came on. Has it gone bad again or is something causing the signal to be low? Maybe a low output on the alternator or low battery? The interior lights dim slightly when the brake pedal is applied while the car is running.
Yesterday my car threw a CEL for the first time; I am currently APR stage II. Ran the code and came up with P2400. Code cleared, but after 1 cycle it appeared again.
Interestingly, on my way to a cookout today the car started yelling at me about low coolant. I pulled over and checked but didn't see any initial signs of leakage (was raining at the time though...). Continued to my destination and topped off with distilled H2O in lieu of G12 since I didn't have any immediately available. Once I made it back home, checked the reservoir again and saw that the level had dropped (probably ~ 1/2 cup or so). This time, I could see liquid on the belly pan, then on my driveway...
It looks like the P2400 code is indicating an issue in the leak detection pump circuit. Any chance that the coolant leak and P2400 code are related (leak shorted something out...??? I should mention I am not super familiar with the plumbing for the evap system in this car) or am I really this unlucky.
Issues with the car since purchase:
- Replaced clutch (stock would not hold stage 1 torque...)
- Wiring for radiator fan came loose, fans stopped working (took ~3 weeks to resolve due to resulting ECU issues...)
- ECU solder joint (EVAP circuit) damaged during re-flash after flashing to stock for dealer to address radiator fan issue...
- P2400 CEL
- Coolant Leak
My check engine light is on. I got the code pulled at Advance Auto Parts. It is P0107 - MAP Sensor Circuit Low Input. I wanted to test the MAP sensor to see if it is bad. I couldn't find anything online that was Santa Fe or even Hyundai specific as far as testing procedures go. I know you can test the power wire, the ground wire, and the signal wire, from what I could tell from other places I've looked. I got 5ish volts from the power wire and 12ish volts on the ground wire, which is what I understand they should be. I don't have a vacuum pump at the moment, but testing the signal wire with no vacuum I got about 0.02 volts. From what I've read online, it should be around 5 volts, but I wasn't sure if all MAP sensors work the same way. Whether I'm doing this correctly and whether they think the sensor is bad?
View 5 RepliesMy coolant was right below the low mark (it was right above 1k miles ago so it has a slight leak, but haven't checked the bottom core yet, most likely its leaking there?) so overnight it sat and in the morning ive filled it to the high mark and upon starting and warming up the engine the coolant went back to right below low. It doesn't look like its leaking at least not anywhere that fast, is this normal? I gotta check later again while car warmed up etc to check level, but how can the coolant go from being at the high mark to right below the low mark?
Regardless the radiator had previously been repaird by the lexus dealership for leaks, where it should've been replaced. Luckily lexus said they will take a look and replace, but Id rather not go through the dealership.