After replacing a tail light, my rear hatch quit opening, power windows quit rolling down, interior lights quit working, and also my key will not lock or unlock the doors. My first thought is a blown fuse. How did you solve it?
View 5 RepliesMy insurance is pay to replace my window shield on my 04 Phaeton V8. I am going to use VW glass. Will I have a problem with the installation because it's not the same as the factory? I am nervous.
My rear tail lights need to be replaced. I am thinking of using the European tail lights to get the Amber rear blinkers and to get the foglight. On OEMPL.us website, it indicated that I will lose the cats-eye side reflector. What is that and where?
My car has the original battery and it hasn't given me issue. Even a few weeks back when most of the country was really frozen and the car was parked outside, it started fine.
Last week after a work day in the parking lot, she was dead-dead. No dome light, no cluster, no lock LED. After 5 minutes tethered to a friend's battery via jumpers, it quickly showed interior electricity but the starter strained. 5 minutes more and the car started like nothing happened. Last weekend after a movie, the car was dead-dead again. I opened the door to see if I could hear the starter to determine how dead it was and the dome/cluster lights came back and it started fast.
The car sat for 36 hours or so and started fine, even after pretty substantial temp drops. Got around town for the past 2 days, no issue.
Today the car was dead again. Jumped it off my Mk2 and went on my way. It started fine and got me to Advanced Auto where their battery tester read 400 CCA and their info showed spec was 430 CCA. They didn't want to sell me a battery yet and suggested an overnight trickle charge and to monitor the issue.
If it was just a dead battery requiring a jump, I'd replace it. But the other oddities + the seemingly good test #'s makes me wonder what else I'm seeing.
I replaced both front hubs on my 1999 Jimmy back in April because of a bad bearing. About 5 months later the ABS light came on. I had the code pulled and it was left front speed sensor. I could get the light to go off by messing with the wires that come out of the hub but the light would come back on again after a short drive. Took the hub back and got a new one but the ABS light was still on. Had it scanned again and it said right speed sensor curcuit open. I can get the light to go out if I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left but it comes back on when I go back to the right. The truck needs a front alignment bad. Could the alignment problem be causing the ABS light or is my right hub also bad? Or do I have an electrical problem.
View 1 RepliesWhile changing out a light bulb in a door panel I had to use pliers ( bulb was broken ) I knew I would blow a fuse but it has taken out the dash board, power windows and even the radio I have checked the CB 601 and that's fine any ideas what to look for next ?
View 8 RepliesI am having problems with ALL my driver door electronics, except the fuel door. my passenger side works fine, sunroof works fine. Ive removed the door panel to look for obvious problems, like broken wires.. Fuses are good, looking for a good place to start. Power winder/locks.
Little update, i reset my battery and they worked, waited like twenty minutes, nothing works again.. why would i have to reset the battery every time for the windows to work?
Passenger tail light bulb went out who knows when, but was alerted about it today. Every other time this has happened, in multiple vehicles, the turn signal blinks rapidly to let you know the bulb is out. Mine blinked normally.
In the past year I've had to change my multi function switch and more recently the flasher relay for the blinkers. Just a standard relay from the parts store, not the heavy duty one or anything. It did say it was LED compatible, so I wonder if that is why it didn't pick it up? Why I didn't get the rapid blinking?
I have a 1997 F150. I installed a trailer towing kit round 7 pin. I followed the instruction and replaced three different fuses after installation. The passenger side turn signal will not work. I replaced the bulb. The brake light works and the bulb is on when the lights are on it just will not blink. When the turnsignal is on it clicks very quickly.
View 4 RepliesI am having a “Check Engine” light problem on a stock 06, 4 cylinder Jeep Wrangler with manual transmission. A local highly regarded independent mechanic has had it in his shop 3 or 4 times for more than a day each time. On the first visit he replaced a purge solenoid valve and reset the light. It stayed off for more than 400 miles and then relit. He went over it and checked the wires and connections and reset the light. Again it stayed off for some time and then relit. He has checked the Jeep site.
After the last visit he suggested I drive it and see if it would reset itself as it had been doing in the past. It did reset itself twice but it only stayed off for 10 miles the first time and 2 the second. The code indicates an electrical problem and he is now planning to drop the fuel tank and check the wires and sensors there. The next step may be an ECM transplant. This is only an emission system problem and the mechanic says it is OK to drive. We do not have emission inspections here. How important is it to fix the problem?
This is for a 2003 GTI, 89,00 miles. Every time I try to use the windshield cleaner the fuse blows for the windshield wipers. I have tried to put in a 25 amp fuse and it worked for a while but still blew. The windshield wiper motor has been replaced.
View 2 RepliesMy beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
View 1 RepliesMy 2008 chevy aveo has electrical problems, I think, sense I purchased it. First off the clock goes on and off randomly and doesn't keep time. Then the engine light is on one day then off the next. Sometimes on hot days sometimes on cold days. took it to Autozone and they have said two different times said there is a something wrong in the fuel sensor ??? took it to the Chevy dealer 3 time, Once they keep it for 3 days and said they couldn't get the engine light to come on.. ei. nothings wrong. the second time they said it was the sparkplugs and they charged me to replace them. 10 minutes after I got the car back the light came back on. The third time, again they said they can't find anything wrong.So the light as been going on one day and off others..I just ignored it...Yesterday, I was in 5th gear and I lost all power. engine still running but now power when I press on the gas. I managed to pull over, turn off the car and it acted fine. It happened again on the way home from work. Now the light is off and it seems fine.
View 8 Replieswe just bought a 2002 Excursion and it has a few issues. First off the door, the ajar light will not go out, however, the dome lights are not on constant, they come on briefly while the key is removed and do work with the roller switch. Also the radio doesn't shut off with the key removed until the timer relay kills all power. I have ohmed the door switches to ground all the way back to the VSM/GEM module. The door lock/unlock switches do nothing for any of the doors, the actuators don't even try to move. The auto headlights also do not function.
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 Super Cab 4x4, 4.0, XLT. The radio has terrible static and the back lighting of the climate control goes off and comes on at different intervals. Are the two issues related?
View 1 RepliesThe tail lights do not turn off- the head lights do not turn on. every fuse was pulled and still the tail lights stayed on. Headlight switch was swapped out with a new one to eliminate it with no different result. No modifications known to have been made to the electrical system. This thing did spend a lot of time in NY state, so corrosion is likely. But this does not explain how/why the tail lights would stay on even if the headlight switch was off... IMO this would have to be an ignition switch issue.
View 9 RepliesMy 2006 F150 was purchased by me in early 2009 with about 28,000 miles on it. It's an XLT crew cab 4X4 with the 5.4. Stock except for a leveling kit and an aftermarket head unit. It currently has about 59,000 miles and has been babied since I purchased it. About 3 years ago I started noting some issues:
A. Oil pressure dummy gauge is all over the place. Some times it will show no oil pressure. Other times it is all the way to the highest mark. Other times the needle has gone 180 degrees past where normal is and is actualy pointing straight down towards the floor.
B. Recently my alternator dummy gauge has started doing the same thing as my oil pressure gauge.
C. The backlight behind my odometer works intermittently, but mostly not at all.
D. My dome light will flicker when first turned on. It doesn't matter which door is opened or if the override switch it turned on. It takes several seconds to come on and will flicker like there is a poor connection somewhere, but stays on once its on.
E. Blower fan will occasionally stop blowing. Once the climate control switch is turned to off, then back to on it resumes working. This doesn't happen often, but does occasionally.
Fortunately, the truck has not left me stranded and I want to keep it that way. We are getting ready to sale my wife's Toyota and this will become her daily driver. I want to take care of any issues before she starts driving it. Are these all separate issues or is there one common issue which could be causing them all?
I took my car into the dealer and got the mech unit replaced. I drove it home in the rain and when I parked it I noticed bad condensation in the driver side tail light.I have never noticed this before and do not no if it was there when I bought it. Anyways, I did some research about the issue and I found that it is a common problem. I have read that it is normal because it is vented and others say take it to the dealer and get it fixed?
View 23 RepliesI installed LED R tail lights from ECS and now when I put the car in reverse with the lights on the right inner tail light goes out. It's not the light because I already swapped it for another one and it did the same thing. I do have a RVC and the trigger wire is hooked up to this light but the stock lights work fine and I still have the issue when I unhook the RVC.
View 12 RepliesPicked up the r32 last July and the car has been running great. No problems and still a blast to drive. My right tail light, however, will not work when I put my lights on. The signal works, brakes work, the flashing lights when I lock the car are fine, but my right signal tail light stays out. Thought it just might be the bulb at first, switched it but it didn't make a difference.
Went to the dealer for an oil change and mentioned the problem saying maybe I shorted a fuse or something and I can just replace it. He told me it was a little deeper than than that and need to check it out first.
I just notice some condensation in one of my tailights.
There's been some snow and ice lately and I'm wondering if that's what caused it.
Is there anyway I can get rid of it? Is it from the water getting through the gaskets/seals?
Any link to a non-led tail light removal diy? I tried searching, didn't get any results. Any write up or diy on it?
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