Golf IV R32 :: Electrical Malfunction - Battery Seems To Be Dead Sometimes
Jan 27, 2010
My car has the original battery and it hasn't given me issue. Even a few weeks back when most of the country was really frozen and the car was parked outside, it started fine.
Last week after a work day in the parking lot, she was dead-dead. No dome light, no cluster, no lock LED. After 5 minutes tethered to a friend's battery via jumpers, it quickly showed interior electricity but the starter strained. 5 minutes more and the car started like nothing happened. Last weekend after a movie, the car was dead-dead again. I opened the door to see if I could hear the starter to determine how dead it was and the dome/cluster lights came back and it started fast.
The car sat for 36 hours or so and started fine, even after pretty substantial temp drops. Got around town for the past 2 days, no issue.
Today the car was dead again. Jumped it off my Mk2 and went on my way. It started fine and got me to Advanced Auto where their battery tester read 400 CCA and their info showed spec was 430 CCA. They didn't want to sell me a battery yet and suggested an overnight trickle charge and to monitor the issue.
If it was just a dead battery requiring a jump, I'd replace it. But the other oddities + the seemingly good test #'s makes me wonder what else I'm seeing.
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Last week i took my '04 V10 in for tires/brakes/rotors with a local service shop. The next day they called saying one of the service attendants must have left the keys in the car overnight, because the battery isn't working right.Here is what happens (all within about 15 seconds)
1. Put key in ignition, engine starts normally
2. Multiple error lights immediately start flashing (engine, glow plug,tire pressure, etc, etc...
3. The MFI screen goes black (like the Tony Soprano finale)
4. the center console flashes "safe ..........." for a split second then goes blank as well.
5. the a/c does not run at all during this
6. the engine RPMs will not increase despite pressing on the accelerator.
7. the engine suddenly stops.
8. everything is then dead on the car.
This all takes place over about 10-15 seconds. This entire process can be reproduced by taking the key out and starting over. They are shipping the car out to a dealer for further evaluation, their computer gave them some sort of "battery learning error", but they were unable to reset it. I haven't heard of a dead battery behaving like this. The Touareg never ceases to amaze
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I am having problems with ALL my driver door electronics, except the fuel door. my passenger side works fine, sunroof works fine. Ive removed the door panel to look for obvious problems, like broken wires.. Fuses are good, looking for a good place to start. Power winder/locks.
Little update, i reset my battery and they worked, waited like twenty minutes, nothing works again.. why would i have to reset the battery every time for the windows to work?
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Against my better judgement I picked up the ex wifes 2001 Prius after the "mechanic" she took it to ran the HV battery dead. I picked up two Gen II batteries and built me a good battery. Then I cleaned all the corrosion off the harness and terminals and put the HV battery back in. The engine spins but dies. There are no engine codes but under the HV ECU cattegory I get a {P3106 communication malfunction, engine > HV}. I had a spare HV ECU and swapped it and get the same code. Spare engine ECU and the same code also. Not sure where to go from here. How to check voltages at the ECM ?
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I have a 2006 GS 300 AWD with 47,000 miles. I am currently on my fourth battery in 13 months. Between 12/2008 and 12/2009 I have had to have three batteries replaced. The dealer says there is nothing wrong with my car. Is there anything I can do. The last time the battery died on 12/5/2009 the car could not be jump started and had to be towed. The dealer said there was no parasitic electrical short and I have just had three dead batteries in one year. I have heard there have been electrical defects in Toyota products and it is not just the gas pedal.
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Earlier this year had dead battery after sitting for a week. 5 year old battery so bought new one battery still goes dead randomly (overnight), instead of playing radio for a few minutes after key off, dash displays "system off to conserve power" ran it thru local repair place (ex ford dealer) nothing found. Voltage 14v at 1800 rpm, lights on". STILL goes dead randomly...
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I recently bought a 1969 chevy c10 pickup. I have been having problems with the electrical system, the battery consistently going dead despite a new battery and alternator installed by the previous owner. Is there a step-by-step for diagnosis of this problem?
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I have a 02 f350 v10 with a starting problem. Sometimes it will crank but really slowly almost like the battery is dead, but its not! bench tested the battery and actually just bought another new one. And with the same result. I tested the relay that's on the firewall in between the starter and the battery and it checked out, i also bought a new relay and i want to put it in except I haven't figured out which wire goes to the coil and which one goes to the ignition. the battery and starter poles are marked and easy to follow ..
Also last month I changed the starter but I'm starting to get desperate and i think I'm going to take it off and have it bench tested as well. I'm just really at a loss in which direction to go. The truck on the outside really looks good but living in the northeast the frame and probably most of the outside grounds are toast and I've been renewing or just placing them as I come across them. Before i forget i tried jumping the starter directly from the battery with cables and got the same result. it would crank but too slow to actually turn over.. Sometimes my radio and ignition lights will sometimes come on without the key in the ignition..
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I own a 1997 ford f150 V6 engine and I have problems with the electrics. I turn the key on and the engine starts up runs great but I then look at the gauges and not one moves at all the. No fuel when i have just filled up,no tep,no oil,no battery all read nil. I went a drive and the speedo reads 0 it does not move but the truck drives great. Could it be a fuse, does a fuse control the gauges, which one it could be. I have lifted the hood and under the hood on the drivers side there is a box with small and larger fuses.There is one that is very small and the colour is white that's blown. Would you no what that fuse is for.
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I have a 2001 Suburban (chevy) 5.3 liter Vortec engine, auto trans 4 wheel drive, fully loaded. As of late I come out in the morning to find a dead battery. this happened before and I disconnected the fuse for the dvd player that was installed aftermarket. some times I have to hit my dashboard to get the dash lights to work, now they dont work at all. sometimes the ride control compressor runs for no apparent reason when the car is off. I replaced the battery 3 years ago and it seemed to solve the problem until now. I replaced the battery with an optima red top yesterday and now the electrical system is going haywire. the ABS light is flashing and the service ride control light is on, the fuel gauge is bouncing back and forth from full to empty. What should I do. I am a fair mechanic but electrical is not my forte.
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I have a 2009 F 250 5.4L, couple days ago it acted as if the alternator had gone out and killed the battery. I swapped batteries with a coworker to get the truck home and when I hooked the battery back up, the battery and the alternator both tested fine. I've put the voltmeter on periodically and everything seems to be fine and all electronics are working except for the radio. I did a light test on the fuse and it showed a bad fuse so I tested the fuse and it tested fine and I put a new fuse in and tried the light test again and it failed. What the problem could be?
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After replacing a tail light, my rear hatch quit opening, power windows quit rolling down, interior lights quit working, and also my key will not lock or unlock the doors. My first thought is a blown fuse. How did you solve it?
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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This is for a 2003 GTI, 89,00 miles. Every time I try to use the windshield cleaner the fuse blows for the windshield wipers. I have tried to put in a 25 amp fuse and it worked for a while but still blew. The windshield wiper motor has been replaced.
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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So I went to put my R32 back on the road yesterday, it has been garaged since November. Over the winter I had gone out to start her every 2-4 weeks. She would start right up all winter. 2-3 weeks ago I went out to start her and she started right up! Then last night, I went to go start her for her maiden voyage of 2015, and boom dead. What would cause this or if I should be worried?
I would let her run for about 20 minutes when I started her each time this winter, the previous successful start was no different.
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So pretty recently the battery in my MK4 GTI went bad and when I put in a new one everything went back to normal except for my radio. The stereo doesn't turn on at all, no power goes too it period. The security light doesn't blink, the buttons don't light up when I switch on my headlights. It didn't ask for a radio security code or anything. I'm not sure how to troubleshoot or what to do at all and when I asked my local stereo shop to fix it they informed me that it would cost $70 an hour for them to "investigate".
I have the stock premium Monsoon radio, the typical double DIN one. Before I changed the battery I tried jumping it and all it did was heat up the jumper cables, not sure if that blew the fuse in the radio.
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Been the proud owner of a '04 Golf for a few years but it hasn't been without its share of hiccups. I recently had my battery die on me. Got the car looked at and apparently the alternator was the culprit, ie, it wasn't functioning and re-charging the battery. Swapped out the OEM for a rebuilt Bosch 120A (my car is a 2.0GL, so it's supposed to be 90a default, but I looked online and saw that I could use the 120). Even put in a new battery as the old one was past its prime. Now the new alternator (which was not fun to install) isn't working either. I had a different mechanic look at it and they said that while the auto shop gave me the right part number, that apparently VWs are hinky with aftermarket parts and I'd have to take it to a VW dealer for a diagnostic? Makes no sense as I've seen tons of people online who've used aftermarket alternators with no problem.
So now the car essentially is dead in the water. Battery light comes on when the car is started and I'm not tempted to not drive the car anywhere out of fear that the new battery will die in mid-traffic. I've checked the grounds, pulley, etc, everything looks fine and connected proper. What could be going on?
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This is my first VW. My first European car at all. I've been having what I think are battery issues, but they're weird. Every... I'd say 3rd or 4th start, I just get the clickclickclickclickclick thing. Then I jump it and it starts fine. When I don't have to jump it, it's been starting rough. When I jump it is the only time it starts smoothly. To me that screams battery.
The other day, I went to start it and it wouldn't start. But I had nothing to do that day so I went back inside and did whatever. Went out about 5 hours later, and it started just fine.
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Short version is that my battery is not staying charged. I drive the car daily and am not having any serious issues except for having to put a charger on overnight about once a month or so since this past winter. The current battery (Optima red top) has never gone dead and has been more reliable than the original, it just cranks progressively slower each time I start the car until the day comes that I decide to put the charger on again.
All the lights flicker and dim when driving at night, and have been like that for a few years. When it began, I had the charging system checked three separate times. Once at the dealership who told me everything was fine, once at an Advance Auto who said all was well except for there being an above normal load on the battery with the engine/all accessories off , and once at an alternator/electric motor specialist who said all was well except that the alternator was not capable of generating enough to keep the battery charged long term. They said if I ever got stuck in traffic and sat at idle with the ac/stereo on for an extended period that I shouldn't shut it off since I may not have enough power to crank it again . At first I thought they were going to suggest that I have them repair/rebuild/upgrade it somehow, but they really had no interest in doing so.
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I stored my car with a friend for a few months and of course he let it sit too long. He had to do a running start and now the dash lights are a penalty. I'm still out of town, but I am getting on a airplane right now to come home and be with my R again. He said the car was cutting of at stop lights, I'm sure he drove it cold.
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