So today I was standing still in traffic and the ESP and ABS lights came up all of the sudden.. I got these codes.. What could it be?
The third code is the same as the second one....
If I get in my car to hard or even when I'm in the car and rock back and forth while standing still it sounds like the springs squeak, kind of like a spring bed when getting it on. I don't hear it when I'm driving though.
View 8 RepliesI can't get the trunk to open while the car is locked from a normal standing position. I used to be able to, but now I have to rub up against my car to open it. gotta hump the back of my gti to open trunk... its been 3 months. is the key already dead?
View 6 RepliesCrank position sensor was replaced a few months ago. After that noticed that it would not accelerate properly from a standing start. No jerking or anything, but way back it used to be able to spin the front tires a bit, but now not getting that needed acceleration. After hitting 15 or 20 mph, then it's back to normal and road and highway speeds are nice with power.
The reason the crank position sensor was replace was on account of intermittent no starts. That's gone away, but now this acceleration problem. Could it be a leaking air from the outside into the intercooler? Would a VAGCOMM show what's going on? Golf TDI 2005...
I hate trying to describe noises. When idling at lights I hear AC noise. Not the air coming through the vent. It's something else. Is that normal? Previous cars were silent when new, wheezing didn't happen until older.
View 12 RepliesMy 2000 Ford Ranger over heats when I stop at traffic lights. I took it to Tire Kingdom and hey suggested a new thermostat and a radiator flush. I did both and it continues. What is the issue?
View 6 RepliesMy 2007 with 73k has started to idle rough at traffic lights. Not horrible, but a noticeable vibration. Rpm's are around 500. If I put it in neutral, rmps go up to about 800 and idle gets better. What could cause a rough idle like this?
View 14 RepliesWhen backing out of the garage, it started with a slipping or tires feeling like they were grabbing the concrete. Then came hesitation and/or jumping at traffic lights. This seemed to improve but then a whoop, whoop helicopter noise which seemed to get louder during acceleration. The repair shop has diagnosed it "internal transmission problem". Is this common? Any estimate on cost to repair?
The transmission did seem to make a noise and possibly slip when going over speed bumps. This appeared to be addressed under warranty. Current mileage is about 130k.
Dodge Grand Caravan 2000 3.0L
First, sometimes the engine began shuts off. When the drive up to the traffic lights. When sharply throw gas pedal. When the engine speed is less than 2000. If you release the gas pedal, you will see that the tachometer needle drops below 500 rpm and the engine stalls. This happened happened two or three days all right. And sometimes a day, 3-4 times shuts off. Then ringing under the hood.
Was the flywheel. I remove the transmission and replace the flywheel. More repair parking brake pedal. So it turns analyzed under the panel. I have a new problem. After repair. I driving my Dodge week. And once. After an overnight stay the machine, on morning the engine not start. I checked the spark. The spark is. I removed the fuel hose. and there is no pressure. Just a little bit of fuel.
I decided that this is the fuel pump. I took off his tank, bought a new fuel pump. The pump has not changed. Today I decided to apply voltage to the old pump, it still stands in the tank. It works. Buzzing. Then I decided to check the voltage on the connector. I turned on the ignition. The instrument appears briefly on 12 volts. They are only momentary. Now I think there should always be 12 volts? Fuel tank removed. All hoses are disconnected. Not really the problem in the fuel pump? How to troubleshoot? Where can I get the wiring diagram?
My high mileage 2002 SC430 seems to shake very slightly when I the car is idling at traffic lights (both when it is warm and when it is cold). The shaking is very very slight but it is noticeable. The shaking does not occur if the air conditioning is running or when the car is moving. The check engine light is not on.
The previous owner did mention that the alternator may need to be replaced eventually, but I don't know if this could be related.
Had a tune-up and a mechanic also looked at the accelerator pedalfor some reason, but no report regarding the fuel injection or regulatory components which I suppose should have signaled an issue when the computer diagnostic was run if I am to understand the mechanic's position.
View 2 RepliesOn my way to pick up my mother in law yesterday I noticed a strange whirring sound whilst at the traffic lights, thought that was a strange new sound anyway I guessed something was wrong so on arrival I noticed an oil like mark on the left hand side of the car on the wet drive. So it looks like I may have a corroded power steering line. Got the car booked in with the chap who does my vehicle repairs for me is this a difficult job on the V10?
View 6 RepliesI recently had 2 coils replaces and 4 spark plugs (CODES SHOWING ACCORDING TO GOODYEAR) replaced because the engine light was ON. Now My car intermittently shuts off without warning, but will restart about 1 or 2 minutes later showing CHECK GAS CAP on dashboard. Went back to Goodyear thinking maybe faulty parts. They ask if any lights are on like the check engine light, they tell me if not they don't know, come back if it continues. I thought maybe it's my battery.
The guys at Battery Bills connected a devise to the battery that shows green if it's charged, YELLOW if it needs to be driven more(or issue) RED(not enough power PROBLEM) and I when back to them yesterday and they rechecked...Battery is fully charged. They said the alternator is good also, I'm not too sure they checked.Later after work I fuel up a the Chevron instead of Costco thinking maybe the gas??? My car starts then dies, the battery signal device is showing red.
I get a jump, the second the cables are connected to my battery the device shows green, my car starts right up. Pull out to the traffic light, car shuts off, but restarts. I was told to drive my car at least 30 minutes away from home and back about once a week, to keep battery charged because I live less than 10 minutes away from wherever I drive to....so I DRIVE about 5 minutes in my car starts to stutter(hesitate) twice, but smooths out and I also notice the RPM gauge is showing 0???? NO ERROR LIGHTS or CHECK ENGINE ARE SHOWING ON THE DASHBOARD so I continue home at a lost. My car is a 2010 Accent with 57,100 miles....
Okay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
My 4 cylinder Tacoma vibrates a lot when it is idling, especially sitting in "drive" at traffic lights. My regular mechanic has tried various things to remedy it but none has really worked. He suggested the valves may need to be adjusted. Is this plausible? Or is he off-base? And is it really expensive?
View 4 RepliesA few months ago I bought a used 2007 Mercedes C280. Overall, I've been very happy with the car. The first month or so was heavy on longer highway driving, and it seemed to be getting decent gas mileage. The last couple of months have been mostly short range city driving, and the mileage seems significantly less. I wonder about the idle speed, on the assumption that it may be wasting a lot of gas sitting at stop lights and in traffic. The tachometer reading isn't always consistent at idle, but fairly often it's up close to 9,000 rpm. What should I be seeing, and does this need attention?
View 6 RepliesSo i replaced everything, Crack pipe, thermostat, greentop CTS, water pump... still getting 1 or 1.5 bars past the vertical in traffic after about 10 minutes...
The fans work... atleast they are both on when i shut off the car...
A couple weeks ago, I noticed the a/c air warming up while I was in traffic. Later the car started overheating while the a/c was on in traffic, but cooled back to normal as the a/c was switched to econ. As of a few days ago my a/c air is not cold at all anymore, in traffic or moving. And now today, my car overheated in traffic without the a/c on, but returned to normal after I waited out the freeway blockage and drove home when the traffic speed was higher.
I've been reading threads on here for about three hours now and going out to run tests. It appears that neither fan runs on low or high speed. I want to check the fuses, but the fusecard is like reading hieroglyphics. It appears that slot 25 (with a picture of a fan) might be the right one, and after checking it appears intact. Questions:
- Is there a fan fuse? Is it #25? Are there more than one?
- If the fuses aren't the issue, is there something else to rule out before removing the fans for inspection and cleaning or replacement? (controller module, thermostat, relays, etc.?)
So recently my car has been starting to over heat. not to the extreme but the temp needle is going past the middle. only happens when stuck in traffic but as soon as I start going it goes back down.
As far as iv noticed only thing getting me puzzled is my fans are not running when running and starting to overheat. they run when I shut the car off though. The radiator is less then a year old. fresh oil change and the coolant is fine
My 2002 Jetta VR6 is overheating. The car only overheats when the car is not mobile. If I get stuck in straffic or just let it idle it will over heat. What could it be?
View 3 RepliesI was slightly overheating in traffic, watching the gauge creep up a little. So i bought a new fan, swapped it in this morning, and still no Big Fan.
Fuses on top of the battery are all good. Does this mean my FCM is gone?