Golf IV R32 :: EPC Light Came On Occasionally?
Jan 4, 2012
Driving home from the mountains the other day my EPC light came on for about 1/10 of a second and then went away. Anything I should be worried about or is it no big deal?
View 3 RepliesDriving home from the mountains the other day my EPC light came on for about 1/10 of a second and then went away. Anything I should be worried about or is it no big deal?
View 3 Replies 04 Jetta GLI 1.8T... Just picked this girl up last week and I love it. Super smooth ride and shifts cleaner than any car I've driven and owned.
Originally wanted a TDI, but I couldn't resist this deal that fell in up my lap. Occasionally the EPC light comes on and goes away. Working on diagnosing it in the mean time...
2002 1.8t Jetta Wagon with the automatic transmission. They've had it for about a week now and we've been trying to iron a few problems out. Mostly cosmetic until the last couple days.
The coil pack harness is trash. I bypassed a couple of the extreme cracked wires in attempt to keep it going until the new one comes in hopefully at the end of this week. We put new plugs in but only afterward did we find out that NGK or VW is the way to go. We put autolite iridiums in.
New fuel filter, however, the line connecting the tank to the filter will not click into place completely. We are able to start/drive the car without the line popping off from the pressure, but you just have to tug on it with your hand to get it off, no need to depress the clip.
The car seems to run better cold. Once it is warmed up and you've been driving around town for 10-15 minutes is when the shuddering starts. It ONLY dies when in Drive or Reverse while at a complete stop. The idle drops down to 400 rpm or so, you can't rev the motor/drive. Sometimes it will come back up to normal and you can go, sometimes it will go back and forth but you can't get any power to the wheels. Sometimes it will drop the RPMs and shudder at 400 for a couple seconds then just die. It always starts right up without hesitation. In park/neutral the idle is still slightly erratic, occasionally bumping up to around 1300 rpms for a second or two then back to around 900 or so.
When we bought the car, we test drove it and it was fine. Of course that is how it works out. They drove the car for about a week. In that time, it shuddered and died once, and would occasionally shudder at a stop light but there was no issue driving it or loss of power when accelerating.
What I'm wondering is if we should go ahead and order the R8 coil pack and spark plug kit from HSTuning. I'm hoping that the harness fixes the issue, but if it could be cheap spark plugs or a coil pack going out, I'd like to get it all done at once. My main concern is the possibility that it could be the transmission. The symptoms feel like loss of power, not slipping, but still, I'm worried that maybe it could be the issue.
The past few weeks the dashboard warning light for my alternator/battery will occasionally light up while driving down the road. Whenever it does, my plug in voltage meter shows a healthy 14.x reading. It usually goes out after a few seconds, but will stay lit up for as much as thirty seconds. So other than voltage being too high or too low, what else will cause the dash trouble light to illuminate?
View 14 RepliesMy parking brake light goes on occasionally. It is the electric park brake. If I engage the brake I can hear the brake engage. Is this a sensor issue or do I just need new rear pads?
View 4 RepliesOver the last few weeks the clutch in my 6mt will occasionally stick in. Doesn't happen often, maybe once or twice during my commute to work. So, when i let my foot off the clutch, the pedal will either come back slowly or stop about half way out. there has been 2 occasions now where I've had to get behind it with my foot to pull it all the way out. Does it just need to be bled?
I have about 20k miles on the car now.
Occasionally I have to turn over my MK6 twice to start. Happens when car is warm or cold. why? I have APR stage one, but hard starting happened before and after install. Have kessy, not sure if that contributes to the problem....
View 5 RepliesI have a 97 Grand Prix GT with a 3800 engine. The "low coolant" light comes on occasionally, I checked the coolant in the radiator and reservoir, both are fine. I replaced the radiator cap. There are no signs of engine overheating. Could it be the thermostat? Also where is the sensor located?
View 3 RepliesI have been hearing/feeling an occasional noise from my front end. Not a low-freq "thud" more like something sticky. Usually at very slow speeds, when turning the wheel, going over uneven pavement, or pulling away from stop. It sounds and feels to me like a steering rack issue, but maybe CV joints? 40k miles, 6-spd manual no mods.
View 3 RepliesSo I have the warranty on my car still and I've brought my R into the dealership to have it checked out. They want to do more "diagnostic" work on it since they're not sure what's wrong with it.
The Issue: When coming to a stop, the RPMS will occasionally surge up to 1500ish RPMS, before slowly dropping down to the idle 800ish.
CEL has come on twice in the past month after a day or so of this happening (first time, CEL went away on it's own after 3-4 days, 2nd time, I had the code cleared at the dealership).
Code: P0507 - Idle Air Control RPM Higher Than Expected
I'm thinking it's the PCV valve failing, or in the process of it. The dealership says they think it's an air leak somewhere in the intake system...which would make sense to me if it was a static, constant problem, but it's not. Therefore, through deductive reasoning, I believe it to be a moving part or a valve or some sort that is failing to operate properly.
The car is 100% stock. I have to take it back into the dealership in a couple of days, and I would like to suggest they check the PCV valve if that is the general consensus on here rather than waste more time.
2004 TB EXT. Replaced pads on all 4, installed new hardware kits front & rear, the anti-rattle clips even had the deluxe black coating on the back (mounting) surface to reduce noise. Occasionally squeaks under light braking at low speeds, such as approaching a stop. About 1 out of 4 stops it does this. Semi-Metallic pads. Irritating noise. Never had this happen before, put same brand & style of pads on my truck, no noise.
View 6 RepliesI have a new-to-me (2 weeks) 2004 Prius, and my wife has noticed a weird behavior on start up which I have not been able to reproduce.
Occasionally when she starts up the car the brake light comes on as if the parking brake were set. The ready light will not be on. No other warning or error lights come on. If she turns off the car, and then turns it on again the light will be off and not return. Tapping or setting and releasing the parking brake has no effect.
She swears it has nothing to do with her pushing the parking brake or not pushing the pedal brake. This seems to have started after I set the parking brake one afternoon, but that could also be coincidental.
I have a 2001 Honda Accord V6. The check engine light is on and occasionally the TCS light comes on for a few mins. then goes off. I've been to Autozone and used the diagnostic meter, it indicates a clogged or malfunctioning EGR Valve. I replaced the EGR Valve and reset the Check Engine light. The check engine light came back on. Is there some kind on engine cleaner I can use to clean out the the EGR Valve port?
View 1 RepliesI've searched the other "screaming" problems but they don't seem to fit, they're either when starting and/or cold, or when flooring it.
My car screams occasionally after I start it. Get in, crank car, let go of key, good beat of pause, and then SCREAM! It's fairly loud. Doesn't do it every time, does it whether hot or cold. Once or twice it screamed again after I had backed up and stopped (no it's not the brakes, they do squeal but it's a different sound).
While I'm in the engine troubleshooting the AC system, I figured I may as well get into a few other issues I've noticed.
I have a stock 1.8T and my turbo feels like it's surging occasionally. A few months ago my diverter valve started making the "blow off sound" when I shifted (manual transmission).
Is it possible for a faulty diverter valve to dump the boost overboard and cause the turbo, and engine hp, to surge? It almost feels like I let my foot off the gas for a second or two (i.e., engine power is very peaky).
A second thing that comes to mind is a clogged fuel filter. I know VW does not recommend ever changing it so it's never been done. Is this a possibility as well?
Air filter is clean, by the way. There's a K&N washable one in the stock air box and I can see daylight through it so it's not too dirty.
The cruise worked perfect before I lowered the car and now it works occasionally.. It was on most of the 10 hour drive to this part of Florida and around town it's worked but has started to act up a bit again now.. Sometimes the cruise light will flash and then won't work but other times it's fine any input? The car is an otherwise stock AWP at 107k miles..
View 2 RepliesMy car is stored outside rather than in a garage in winter. I do notice bogging or "gargled" acceleration maybe 4/10 on occasional days and sometimes the engine light will come once this happens and then other times it doesn't come on when it occurs. Engine light usually comes on rarely but when it does, it's when the bogging is really bad.
Question is what would be the most cost effective way to solve or find out what the issue is? And/ or, what would you think the underlying issue would be for starters? Also, does my year car have a MAF sensor? BTW the cabin filter and air filter were just changed a few months ago but unsure if this would include the shop cleaning the MAF if I do in fact have one.
So I just noticed now that my car is popping slightly at idle occasionally...It doesn't do it all the time and the idle is kinda lumpy but always holds at 800-900. Sometimes it drops a bit lower.
Also when starting it up in the morning, or when the engine is cold it doesnt rev up to 1500rpms it just starts and immediately drops to 800-900??
When I press on the gas and keep the pedal at one spot, say 2000rpms, it slowly drops down to 1500??
Occasionally, on hot days, I go out to the car for lunch and it doesn't want to start. Crank it for like 5 seconds, let it sit, then crank it again and it will "sputter" and kick in. No CELs, no errors that I can find with VCDS.
My door switch is not the problem (the MFD shows the open door, and I am hearing the fuel pump prime).
I do seem to notice it more if my gas tank is less than half full, possibly needs to be lower than that (around a quarter).
Once it's running, it runs fine. I put in new plugs about 5k ago. Car has just over 50,000 miles on it.
It seems like lack of fuel delivery, but I'm not sure why. When the pump primes, could it just pushing vapor up the lines rather than actual fuel? (How would this even happen?) How often is the fuel filter supposed to be replaced?
One other thing to note - once or twice when it was VERY cold (sub zero F), the gas gauge got wonky like something was wrong with my sending unit. It read zero when it had read 1/2 earlier in the day. Haven't had any other issues with it that I can remember. Are the sending unit and pump one piece on this car, perhaps mine just needs to be replaced? (Don't have the Bentley handy right now to check.)
1991 Celica ST 4A-FE automatic, 238,000 miles, son's car, has been running great, until he says his oil light occasionally flickers on him. Car is in Wisconsin, driven maybe 2 miles one way to work every day, hasn't been on the highway is a couple months. Has synthetic 5W-30 oil with about 2,000 miles since last change.
Brought the car into the garage. Sure enough, after engine warmed up and idle got below 1,000 RPM, oil pressure warning lamp would come on. Engine sounded normal at idle and fast idle. Tough to put a mechanical pressure gauge on this engine (after to remove the alternator and A/C compressor and bracket, per the service manual, to access the oil pressure switch). I drove it on the highway, put about 40 miles on it, ran great, until I exited the highway. Anything below 1200 RPM, oil pressure warning light would come on.
Came home, removed the oil filter with intent to change it (to make sure it wasn't plugged). Smelled of gas. Oh-Oh. Drained the oil (oil level was at full mark, unusual for this vehicle, normally would be 1/2-quart low after 2,000 miles - 2 months of winter driving). Oil came out with consistency of water. Smelled of gas, and could see water droplets as I switch the drained oil from a collection pan into a jug. Thought was many short trips caused oil to never get hot enough to burn off unburned fuel blow-up or accumulated moisture, so oil was diluted, much too low viscosity.
Changed oil & filter with synthetic 5W-30 & Purolator PureOne oil filter. Took it back on the highway for 40 miles again. Highway drive was fine. Upon exiting, oil pressure warning light came on at 1,600 RPM or below. Oh-Oh. Had another 40 miles on the highway to get home. Highway drive was good again. Upon existing, oil pressure warning light came on again at 1,800 RPM or lower. Oh-Oh.
Worrying that the oil pump for pressure by-pass valve or of bearing spin-out or extreme wear (although engine sounded fine all the time), decided to order an OEM oil pressure switch. Had to take some of the bolt-ons off to access the oil pressure switch, but not all the service manual said had to come off. Took the old oil pressure switch out - looked just fine. Installed the new one, put everything back together. Checked to make sure the oil pressure warning light still came on with key in the ON position (it did), so I knew the wiring connections were good. Startup was fine (cold engine). Took it on the highway for 40 miles, after exiting highway, no more oil pressure warning light. Even tested the situation with the automatic in drive, brake applied, lights on high-beam, heater fan on high, rear window defroster on (got the engine down to 600 RPM), still not oil pressure warning light. Turned engine off, then turned ignition key to ON, oil pressure warning light comes on like it should.
I was putting in a subwoofer earlier today, and after I put everything back together, I turned the ignition to ON just to test out the system, and all the electronics worked fine.
However, when I went to crank the engine, nothing would happen, not even a click or crank. I tried jump starting the car, and it would crank and crank and crank, but wouldn't go on. All the electronics still worked fine, but the EPC light, CEL, and battery light would be solid. While cranking, the battery light would occasionally flicker.