Golf IV R32 :: EPC Light Came On When Going About 70-80 MPH On Freeway - Temporary Stall
Nov 17, 2012
I have a 04 R32 approaching 140,000 mi. The EPC came on on two separate occasions on the freeway going about 70-80 MPH, the vehicle lost power for a split second with the EPC light on. After that split second, the vehicle regain power and act normal again. I've been having minor problem with different thing and not sure if it's all related. I am high idling at 1,100 RPM in traffic and hard to start the vehicle from time to time (I noticed especially when the gas tank is approaching the red zone). Recently, the mechanic cleaned the throttle body real good and minimized the high idle problem.
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As I got to work today, I took the off-ramp particularly enthusiastically. At the very end of the ramp, I got a huge red warning on my MFI saying 'Fuel Pressure Low, Engine off'. Error message was on for maybe 2 seconds. I checked my tach, no dip below 2k, throttle response was normal. Car has run fine after that.
My hypothesis of this happening: I was low on fuel. Indicated range was 40 miles. When I took that corner hard, gas must have sloshed around in the tank in a way that the fuel pump didnt 'find' any gas for a couple seconds - causing the error. As the fuel settled in the tank, got back to normal.
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2002 Jetta 1.8t, auto tranny, 90K miles. Recently took it in and had all coilpacks replaced under VW's recall.
Sometimes when it's been sitting out in cool air for a long time (in Texas summers, this is nights-only), about 3 miles in it suddenly starts misfiring- BAD. Check Engine light comes on. Lasts about 30 sec, then goes away and doesn't come back for the rest of the drive. WTF?? I can't make it happen on queue.
I heard about the all-too-common grounding problem on the engine harness. I did find a significant resistance between the ring terminal on the head and the battery (-). I tied the 3 ground posts under the battery together with 12ga wire and crimped terminals, and ran another 12 ga wire up to the engine block ground right under the ring terminal that grounds the coils, which should have shorted past any weak spot on the harness. PROBLEM STILL OCCURS!
Scans showed:
17766 Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit
16682 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
16684 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
17658 Low Fuel light (only ~3 miles after lighting the Low Fuel warning, I don't think the fuel pump's running dry just yet here)
Seems to focus on Coil 2. But last time I did this I got these errors for Coil 3 and swapped it for a new replacement I had in the trunk in case one went out unexpected. Well now it just says Cylinder 2. Just did it again tonight after clearing codes and got these same Cylinder 2 errors again.
Actually I started to wonder... I've been running the tank close to the "low fuel" light to check my actual mpg usage (no display for it in my MK IV), but fill back up a few miles after it lights. I can think of a couple of spots on the late-night drive back that I see this, one's after a hill which might cause a fuel pump to run dry temporarily, but another's a light downhill then up a light offramp. I don't think the tank's been low every time this happened but I'm not sure. Well, a couple of times it's been mostly level in the parking lot anyhow and misfired a bit right off the bat when starting, so probably not.
Wouldn't there be some sort of "low fuel pressure" code if fuel starvation was actually the issue going on? Hmm, I went looking and I'm not sure there is one for a MkIV, there's errors for fuel trim but I don't think you get those in short-term. This is kinda scary how it just goes out while driving, and I can't do much to reproduce it or test out fixes.
So looking further, other people report what may be intermittent fuel pump issues when the tank goes low. But could that result in "Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit"? I mean the coils will still electrically read as firing. Of course if the system gets all glitch-y, the software may be making a mistake somewhere and report this wrongly.
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I live in NM. It's been excessively hot here this summer, 95+ daily for the past 2 months.
Yesterday while I was driving I noticed a weird feel in the accelerator pedal. Almost like a mini-misfire. It was intermittent. Maybe did it 6 or so times in a 10 minute time span. My wife couldn't feel it in the passenger seat but I definitely felt it through the pedal. There was no MIL light during or after the incident.
We get home, she gets out on the passenger side and there was a strong fuel smell (tank, filler, and filter are on that side). By the time I got the car up in the air and the rear passenger tire off and fender liner out the smell had dissipated (probably evaporated due to the high temperature). There were no noticeable leaks. No dripping. Before I had it in the air I definitely smelled fuel underneath the car around the rear passenger side. I opened the hood and didn't smell or see anything in the engine bay.
I called VW customer care and they informed me this recall of the fuel tank ventilation valve was performed back in 2009 but the symptoms explained in the recall are exactly what I experienced. I verified the recall was done using my VIN number search on NHTSA's Safer Car site.
I can imagine that although the recall was done 7 years ago, it's still possible for this ventilation valve to fail. Especially because the recall states high ambient temps are a factor.
I have a legit VCDS but have not scanned it yet. Wife is off today so I took her car. I plan to go home, scan the car, and try to reproduce the issue before taking the fender liner out again. I have the means to do my own work but if I have to do something like drop the fuel tank I'll probably take it in.
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So I was driving on the freeway and i hit a somewhat small bump in the road. I noticed that my ESP light flashed then turned off. This is normal correct?
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I have a 2013 Golf TDI with 2070 miles on it. For around 2-3 weeks, I've noticed that it intermittently will idle rough, shakes, etc, as if it is about to stall out, but stays running and drives normal. I figured it was a typical Diesel thing and wasn't too worried about it. However, today, this happened, and I got an engine light. Yikes! I made an appointment for it but need to wait till after the 4th for it to be looked at. What's up here? Is it a regen cycle? Timing issues? Am I doomed with my Golf TDI?
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I have a 2005 Chevy Colorado with blown front shocks. I have Walker Evans shocks for an Arctic Fox utv that are the same size as my current shocks. I'm wondering if I can use those temporarily for daily driving until I can afford replacement shocks. Are utv shocks interchangeable with regular shocks if you have the proper springs?
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For the past few weeks I have had a bizarre issue with my 2010 Sonata GLS. If you unlock all doors (press the FOB unlock button twice), get in, close the door and then turn the key and attempt to start the car, all power is lost to the the interior and with no lights, radio etc. The car is literally dead and won't start. If I open the drivers side door and then close it again, all power comes back and I can start the car. All radio stored stations are lost, the clock is reset and usually the trip odometer is reset too. Other times, if I just press the FOB unlock once to unlock just the drivers side door, the issue does not apparently seem to happen. What the issue may be?
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I am driving to work as i do almost everyday but somethin weird happened when i got there... usually i turn my car off when I go into work as everyone does but i guess my car decided it still wanted to run today. I took my key out of the ignition but my car kept running. Luckily I filled up yesterday. I tried pushing the key in and taking it back out a couple times but it just stayed on. With my key out an the car running my MFD would say the steering column lock message but the steering wasn't locked an with the key in the message went away and steering was still free.
So I called my flight to let him know whats going on, since I was already in the parking lot he and a few others come to look and laugh and blame it on the fact its german or blame it on the features they want but dont have. [IMG] [URL] ..... but i the end it had something to do with the remote wire going to my amp?? I am not sure how but my flight chief thought to unplug it and my car just shut off. I am still wondering how a remote wire to my amp could keep my car running without the key. I've had the stereo system in over a year and its never done this..
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I have a 1989 BMW 635csi. Usually runs great. Driving down the freeway yesterday, the car started to run rough and the yellow ABS light came on. I slowed, the car ran smoothly, but then the ABS light would come on. By accelerating or decelerating, the light would go off. But in stop & go traffic, the engine ran very roughly and I smelled unburnt or poorly burnt exhaust. Took it to the BMW place today. Runs great. They cannot duplicate the problem.
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I have had this vibration on the freeway and at different RPMs in different gears and i can figure out the vibrations... its mainly coming from my gas pedal... clutch and brake pedal are usually fine and the steering wheel is alright i guess.
I replaced my dog-bone mount because it was F'd up and got my wheels balanced so those two are eliminated. i know my tires have some camber wear but i feel like it wouldn't be intermittent if that were the case. I am stumped and I hate playing the game where i just replace everything hoping to fix the problem...
Car has 104k miles
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So over the past couple months when driving on the highway I would notice that sometimes my car would lose all power and slowly coast to a stop, but then the power comes back on and I'm off after a few seconds. It happened again today and I notice when I do hit the gas when it decides not to accelerate my boost gauge shows that there is vacuum building up in the engine. It just doesn't make sense to me. Would my car be getting thrown into a limp mode? Or is it something to do with fueling?
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Background: During the last couple of weeks, this happened at least twice: I had to turn the engine for a good 3-4 seconds before it started, and after it did, the EPC light came on. The car drove normally (short lunch drive) and later started with no problem and no EPC light.
This morning, during some stop and go driving, it felt like the engine cutoff for a split second and the EPC light came on. The car then drove fine but the light obviously stayed on. Then on the freeway at 70mph, the engine cutoff, the RPM needle dropped to zero, but within a second or two it came back to life. The "STOP driving" sign blinked just once or twice during this time and disappeared." I can't say for sure, but I am almost sure the engine came back on its own before I cranked it. After that, it felt like it was about to go anytime, but that could have been psychological. Got to work, turned off the engine, turned it on again, and no EPC light!
I found his tidbit on the web claiming it could be the MAF. I also have had the secondary air pump code for the last few months. Could that also be triggered by a faulty MAF? Obviously, I am taking the car to the dealer tomorrow morning. I hope it will be easy to diagnose and fix. Otherwise, it might be time to dump the car?
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On my way to work this morning I was accelerating onto the freeway when my CEL started flashing then eventually went off, and my EPC light was left on. Definitely idling rough, feels like a misfire. When I got to work turned the car off and back on, still rough and the cell flashed again then stayed solid, EPC light also on.
Based on what little research I've done so far it looks and sounds like a misfire. I have my scanner to double check, but it is at home. Can I baby it home 10-15 miles on the freeway? It seems to drive "ok" above about 2.5k, rougher below that. 2012 GTI APR stage 1 about 43k on the clock.
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CAR: 2013 VW GTI
MILES: 645 (I HAVEN'T EVEN BROKEN IT IN YET AND I STILL DRIVE IT UNDER 3)
STORY: As I was driving on the freeway, I tried to press down on the clutch to change gears (from forth to fifth), but my clutch wouldn't move at all; it was like stepping on a rock. So my clutch wasn't engaging and I couldn't do anything, but I managed to pulled off the freeway and I parked my car in the first neighborhood that I saw. By the time I had parked my car, my clutch was smoking profusely. I called VW Road Side and had my car towed to the dealership. They call me the next day to tell me that my clutch was completely burnt out, but there's no signs of harsh driving. They stated that it might be a defect (loose screw, bearing, etc).
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It was raining out pretty good last night. I just got my car unitronic tuned, idk if this has anything to do with it, but just to add some info.
I was driving home, about an hour drive last night, and my car would cut the power for a second, then come back, then cut out again. Then my battery light came on and the car. I pulled over and let my car sit for a minute then finished the drive home...
It cut in and out another time or two before I got home.
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I have had my gen3 Prius for two and a half years and have covered 65,000 miles.
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My tpms light came on tonight after 15 minutes of freeway driving. I checked the pressure in all 4 tires, and they were all right about 36 lbs. The door jamb tire info says 33 lbs cold, so this seems about right to me. why the tpms light might have come on? Is the spare tire hooked up to the tpms system? My Passat is only 1 month old, so I'm surprised the light came on.
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Been really busy lately and havent worked on car. Any way it's been about two months after lowering on hpa shs coils. Rides great but I have had the two following observations.
1. When I'm on the freeway at above 65 a big increase in vibration mostly in the steering wheel. I also rotated tires front to back as they are directional at the same time.
2. When I first set off there is a clunking/adjusting sound from the front right side. It seems to be connected with the rotation of the tire. Goes away as I drive down the block.
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I just recently got a 2004 r32 and it came with almost brand new rotors/pads, at most 500 miles on them. I just realized the other day that when driving freeway speeds, about 70-80 and braking down to 40-50 the entire cabin shakes.
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My 2005 GTI has been decelerating while I'm driving on a certain section of the freeway. It's a steady incline for about 1/2 a mile, the altitude changes (my ears tend to pop). The car starts to decelerate, I take my foot off the pedal for a couple of seconds and then press the accelerator and it's usually fine.
However, a couple of weeks ago it totally stalled out on the freeway, it restarted fine. I took it into the shop the next day, my mechanic is not 100% sure what the problem is, he replaced the crankshaft sensor. Turns out it's not the source of the problem, I am still decelerating on the freeway. I had a tune-up and new battery installed a month ago, so I don't know what the problem is.
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