Golf IV R32 :: Driver Side Axle Keeps Sliding Out From Its Position In The Differential
Sep 1, 2010
The setup is:
MK IV .:R32 with 99,000 miles
Stage 2 clutch with 16.5 lbs. single mass flywheel
The clutch, flywheel & throw-out bearing all have about 20,000 miles on them
For some strange reason it looks like my driver's side axle keeps sliding out from it's position in the differential. This 1st happened after I did a dyno run about 6,000 miles ago. I lost half of my transmission fluid cause the axle shaft back out about a half inch. I guess the spindle stopped the shaft from backing out all the way. It appears to have happen again. What holds this axle in position? What keeps the axle from backing off like this?
My shop said the bearing/seal looked new and in good condition. Besides, it's a $15 part. We believed that the axle just snapped into position but after 4 nights at the drag strip it appears to be leaking again.
CV joints look good. Axle looks good. Transmission and differential all look good. Dog gone axle just keeps sliding out. Did the dyno runs damage something?
ALSO, on night two I did 4 strong passes back to back. Some with wheel slip and others hooked up solid. That night I developed THE HAMSTER WHEEL. Thought it was just a heat shield but I hear a noise that can only be explained by HAMSTER WHEEL. It only seems to happen when driving slow and on then off the clutch. Is it the dust shield? Is my rear main seal damaged? Or is it my timing chains on the way out. It only sounds funny at slow speeds with clutch movement. Too hard to trouble shoot alone.
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I slid, probably going about 20-25mph. Driver side tire hit the curb. Rim looks scraped, tire appears to be fine, steering wheel is a little loose feeling.
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A couple of weeks ago our 2007 Odyssey started having door issues - driver's side sliding door would get about 85% closed (approx 6 inches from closed) then beep and reverse back open. Wife took it to the dealership and they said the rollers were dead and it would be $400 to repair them. Suggested we wait till it got bad. A week later on the cape, it got bad -- doors were getting really stuck, even in manual.
I replaced the roller assy on the door (the rollers were GONE!) and it now operates manually just fine now. I'm left with the following issues:- Door still won't close during automatic operation. Gets 80% closed then beeps and reverses closed.- Door doesn't open automatically during operation from the key FOB or the driver's control panel on the console. (I hear an actuator running when I press the buttons, just no obvious release). The door auto-opens fine from all other modes (inside lever, outside handle).
I've tried multiple "door reset" routines to no avail -- not sure if I have the correct "routine" for my '07 EX, or if something else is in play.
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About 3 days ago there was a complete power loss to the Driver Side Window and Sliding Door. Checked both fuse panels and everything looked good. Is there a relay that controls the entire driver side? There's no whining or noise at all when you push the buttons. Just complete loss of power. If you press the button for the passenger window on the driver door, everything works. So its not that the driver side door as a whole has problems.
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My driver side axle went out. Just wondering what are our choices out there for the o2m 6spd tranny. My cousin and I ordered a set from some axle store but I doubt they are giving us the right part. ECS had them for about $300, thinking about raxles too..
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I've only had the Ex for a few months so I'm still learning... After a trip to Orlando this weekend, I noticed a very faint odor of differential fluid from the driver's side front and rear wheels.
Nothing on the passenger's side. I've inspected the pinions and axles and found no wet areas at all, so I'm a little perplexed. The wheels and axle housings were pretty cool considering a 5 hour round trip.
I was also wondering if what I am smelling is due to the axle vent hoses?
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Just to clarify, I've got a UK spec B5 wagon, manual, 1.8T (AEB, I believe) and it's a 2000. Last night when I was driving home, either my CV joint or axle on the driver (right) side blew out. Needless to say, I'm going to replace my axles or just the outer joints, but I've been shopping around and I'll find parts that will fit an A4 with a 5 speed and AEB but not a Passat, or parts that fit strictly AUG or ATW engine codes. How would I go about finding which axle will actually fit my car?
Here's a video so you can hear the noise : [URL] .....
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My mechanic told me that something was wrong with the driver's side front axle of my 1990 Mazda 323, which has been a dream car for 21 years. He got a new axle to put in but could not get the old one out. Now it is at another mechanic's, and he also can't remove the old axle. He says there is a pin on the end and it is stuck inside the transmission (a 5-speed manual transmission). He has broken the axle trying to remove it, and now it cannot be driven.
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As I had the wheel off to change my tie rod end on my 2003 Camry, I noticed this gunk surrounding the driver side cv axle. I have changed the axle within the last year and there appears to be no grease on the rubber boot itself.
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I noticed pool of oil yesterday morning, felt engine oil has leaked. Did oil change as it was due, the mechanic said the leak doesn't seem big enough, still overnight there was again lot of oil leaked, I kept a pan below to capture it. Checked it at auto shop near me and they said it is transmission fluid leak and probably due to driver side axle seal leak. I am going to take it again tomorrow to fix. How much do you think it will cost to fix if this is right diagnosis? This is 2005 4 cyl Ford escape with 150k on it. As per them if it is axle leak it will probably more of labor (2 hrs) than seal price.
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So I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. The driver side cv axle seal started leaking a few months ago and I finally got around to repairing it. Everything went relatively smooth until I got to replacing the seal...
The problem is, it will NOT fit over the cv axle. It just won't. When the seal is installed, not matter how much force I put on the axle it will not go in. Also, I even pulled the seal back out and tried to put it onto the axle out of the car and there is no way it is going on. This is the third seal (done the rounds to through the big name parts stores) and no go.
Now, some quick car back story, I generally do all of my own repairs, but over the winter in the midst of a family tragedy I had a friend (professional mechanic with a shop) do a bunch of work to the car. He replaced the boot and joint that goes into the transmission (he did not replace the entire cv axle assembly for some reason). What I am beginning to think is that he replaced it with the wrong part.
Now, what I am wondering, is this even possible? Is it possible that it could fit and work perfectly yet be wrong? This also appears to be what broke the original seal. The inner portion of the seal was totally blown out in a circle, but perfectly, like it was crushed or cut out, and I am wondering if this happened due to having extreme force applied to it (possibly when he reinstalled it?)
That, or is it just extremely difficult / next to impossible to get these seals on? Even with both parts out of the car, stretching and pushing down on the seal (oiled it up as well to see if that would work) with all my might yields no results.
The leak was not there for the first month or so that I got the car back and then showed up. I have put about 5k miles on the car since I got it back. With Monday quickly approaching, I am wondering if I should just blow the crap out of my budget and pick up a new cv axle? I could at least have them pull one and let me see if the seal fits, I suppose.
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The middle sliding seat has jammed and I cannot get it back into the regular sitting position. I don't see any obvious obstructions, but there are a couple of springs not attached, and I may be missing a connecting rod.
Any pictures of how a "normal" mechanism should look like?
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I have a 2003 Escape Limited 4WD with approx 163K on the clock. It developed a tranny leak from the front driver's side axle. The seal is new and in good shape as I just replaced the axle and seal a few weeks ago. (I checked the shaft size and surface finish of the axle and it is in spec.)
I just removed the axle tonight and discovered that the problem seems to be the bushing just inboard of the seal in the tranny. The axle has movement up and down when inserted. (Not good!) This is allowing the fluid to leak from the seal.
Here are my questions. Is this a simple DIY fix using a slide hammer type of puller (or similar), or is it time to take it to a tranny shop. I can not seem to find a replacement part listed anywhere.
Also, with this much mileage, should I have the tranny reworked as a precaution if this repair requires dis-assembly or should I just address the leak and think about dumping it? I would prefer to keep it as my kids are now driving age and this is primarily their vehicle. (It has been a great little truck!)
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The driver's headrest on my 07 V10 will not lock in the down position. The buttons on the side of the headrest only release from up to down. After a day of driving it works itself up and is annoying. My dealer looked at all of the 07 Touaregs on the lot and they all were the same. My 04 V8 never had the problem of working itself up.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo that has me stumped as to why it leaks. The driver side axle seal leaks fluid only after a drive. I have replaced the axle twice and seal 6 times and it still leaks. I am stumped on this one. Unless I got a bad axle twice that the diameter of the sealing surface is too small but didn't seem like it as the seal hugs the shaft.
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My driver's side air vent is stuck in the open position. I can coax it down with a piece of wire, and it will then (sort of) engage with the motor and move up automatically when activated (again with a bit of coaxing), but then gets stuck again... Not sure if it's the motor or gears/teeth on the vent itself...? Looking for instructions for removing the motor? Apparently it's straight-forward...?
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The drivers side Hub seems to be stuck in Locked Position. I lifted the Wheel and when I turn it the Front Drive shaft turns and you can feel a fair amount of resistance.
I lifted the Passenger side and it spins free. I then started it and put it in 4WD and the passenger side engaged and i could not free spin the wheel. I then lifted the drivers side again and it would not spin. Turned off 4WD and it spun again but moved the shaft.
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My MK4 Jetta started leaking coolant recently and I'm not sure where it would be coming from. I already checked the reservoir to see if it was leaking out of there but I could not find any leakage. I've found some coolant on the right side driveshaft near the differential, there is also some on the diff. I'm wondering if this could of happened because it has been sitting on a jack stand not being driven for about 2 months. Is it possible that within that time 1 or more of the coolant hoses could have cracked or anything. And while I'm on the subject of why it's on a jack stand, it also has gone through wheel bearings twice within the last 6 months to a year. Is this normal?
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I have a 73 F100 with a 9" rear end. I need to replace the drivers side axle shaft as the bearing retainer is starting to slide off and I'm not willing to take a chance a new bearing and retainer will do it again. They are 31 spline axles and have the ball bearings not the tapered rollers.
What year trucks can I find a replacement axle shaft? Any other thing I should be aware of in finding a replacement?
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I have a 2003 Explorer EB that on deceleration of all speeds, the drivers side rear axle is popping or clicking. Could this be a CV joint? It does not happen on acceleration.
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I have a 2010 LX and the third row seat on the driver side got stuck in folded position. Warranty on these parts is over.
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