Golf IV R32 :: Dash Red Led Screen Dims And Can Barely See The Digits?
Mar 3, 2012
Have the dimming red readout problem? I start the car and it's normal and then after driving for a while the led screen drops out and you barely see the digits?
Also, the digital speedo in the same screen does not read accurately, it doesn't keep up with the real speed changes and it just shows a speed and then gets stuck.
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Sometimes when I get in the car the infotainment screen dims itself after a few minutes so that the information is barely visible. It usually comes back to life after about ten minutes. The manual mentions dimming the screen but doesn't elaborate. Is there a dimming switch for that screen?
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Our 2007 Camry dashboard lights up like as it should (regardless of lighting conditions) then after starting the engine or turning the key to the ON position, it dims to total darkness in about 3 seconds. I need this fixed tonight otherwise my wife will take my Tundra to work.
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When I turn on the headlights of my 2010 the dash backlight dims considerably. It becomes difficult to see/read when the sun hits it just right...especially wearing polarized sunglasses. I have the dimmer switch set all the way high. Is there a way to increase the backlighting or have it not dim as much with the headlights on?
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I have this problem of my in dash cluster flickers and dims at the same time? Also the green lights on indicator flickers and disappears? Took it to the Dealer and put in a new multi function switch, but still does the same thing?
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The small screen in the middle between the speedometer and the RPM has not been functioning ever since in bought my Automatic 1.8T.
Now, to set some things straight, my transmission works fine. The small screen lights up in blue when the lights are lit, but the actual gears are not shown both with light or without light.
I checked my Fuses and all seem well. What could be the issue?
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I went to get in car today, and the driver screen, needles, and dash lighting was flicking or pulsing.. like a wave rolling through the lcd. its got 1k miles on it, jsw tdi.
i did open the trunk, without unlocking from fob, just trunk button, then it auto locked again when i shut it. have never done that before, so maybe this causes it? i let it sit awhile, and all back to normal.
on a side note, got my 20% tint on all around today and looking good need a drop then wheels.
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I'm a new member learning to use my Prius. I like to use the EV mode in parking lots or to back up from my garage or driveway and avoid running the engine just to warm it up because it warms up quicker and efficiently while driving with engine on (gently of course).
I had a few times when EV was cancelled due to "too high speed" and engine started while I was creeping at very slow speeds (<10 MPH). Today it happened twice. First when I was slowly driving in a flat parking lot of DOR where I got my new Prius plates and later it happened when I was slowly exiting from a parking garage DOWNHILL while braking and regenerating. The battery was almost full all the times it happened (so far it stays almost full all times). The driving distances were very short, like couple of hundreds of feet the most.
I can understand why that would happen while driving uphill (I had that too), but flat or downhill at 10 MPH or less?
I don't think the speed sensor is bad, because I also had EV canceled a few times exactly at 25 MPH and that is normal.
Other than that the EV is great. My house is at the lowest point of the subdivision and if I watch my speed carefully (<25 MPH, incidentally a speed limit) I can go entire mile back home in EV and charge the battery to full state in the process by regenerative braking. By doing my average MPH jumped from 50 to 52 and I just started doing it.
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Went to a meeting one evening last week with my 2010 Prius, everything working well. After the meeting we drove away and noticed that most of the dash display was "dark". Driving home and feeling a little gloom as I wondered what it might cost to fix the display problem.
I noticed the poster announcing the meeting we attended was laying on the dash and was pushed up to the display screen. I pulled the poster back an inch and the display came back on !! Pushed it forward and when it got within 1/2 inch of the display, it would blank out ??
It appears the dash display is some sort of bottom projection system to the display screen. Pushing anything up to the display screen blocks that bottom projection and blanks the screen.
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I have prius 2009 44k.... This is the second time in 3..4 months that when i press brake and push start button.. All lights in the car turn on as usual and warning light stays on as well (no normal) ... screen on dash does NOT turn on (touch screen) ..and of curse car is not ready...just lights on (dash ones)...so i have to push power 2 more time to shut it off and start over.. then car performs normally... What could it be??
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Recently relocated from Southern California to Central Indiana. Brought with me a 1992 Lexus LS400 in excellent condition and low milage. Problem is; when temps go down to single digits, doors freeze shut and it's a big problem opening. Question... is there something I can apply to the doors or seals to prevent this problem. I believe this is the first freezing temps this vehicle has been exposed to.
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The odometer only displays partial pieces of the digital numbers. Can this be fixed? If so, how would you go about it?
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So I'm doing a 24hour test drive on a 2014 Prius Two that may be replacing my 2007 Prius Touring (aka Package 5) that has a failing hybrid battery and so far I'm happy. I miss having a backup camera and premium audio but at $17000 I don't want to pay any more. Right now I just have a simple question... how do I show the energy monitor on the dash (top screen)? I even downloaded the manual but when I press the Display button on the steering wheel the only thing I can get to is "SETTINGS 3.11.16". I went into settings but didn't find anything that stood out... so I'm lost already...
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I noticed a glare on the metal surface at the top of the dash in front of the Nav Screen. I have fabricated a cover out of "vinyl" from the fabric shop. I stuck it down with a few double backed tape patches.
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I've had this car for a couple of years now and I think this week is the first time I didn't 'fill up' when I got gas. So now the trip computer is all confused on miles to empty vs the almost half tank I have on the fuel gauge. I've tried resetting the trip & holding the button to reset when miles to empty is displayed. I'm a little nervous with the miles to empty in the single digits now.
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When the temperatures drop to the single digits and below, my car won't start. It won't even turn over! I turn the key and there's nothing. So, I sit in the car and then turn the key again. I wait. Then turn the key again. Within about 5-10 minutes, the car starts and its good to go! I've had a new battery installed. And even with the new battery, it does the same thing. At the shop, they check the battery and say it's fine.
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I got a 2002 GTI 1.8t , with about 109,xxx miles. Ran into a few problems, I took the hose off the fuel rail and turnt the key on. & noticed the fuel pressure was noticeable low & another problem i got is the car doesnt start most of the time. it takes about 3 or 4 cranks before it eventually tuns over. sometimes i noticed if i turn the key on and leave it for a minute or so itll start up. finally want to fix this POS. so I decided to run the codes & heres what i got
P0230
Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
CONFIRMED
P0341
Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Proformance B1
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The issue: Check engine light on. Codes pulled, and he's getting O2 sensor codes (aftermarket exhaust has caused that since he bought the car) and 17705 Pressure Drop Between Turbo and Throttle Valve. The car barely accelerates, and you can hear the turbo spooling, and the engine has small surges. I had VCDS going and went for a drive and noticed his N75 Valve duty cycle was stuck at 5.1% no matter what throttle position he was in. So we're going to the wreckers this afternoon and will pull an N75 valve? The DV is stock and appears to be in good condition, but if changing the N75 doesn't work then that's the next spot I'll look.
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This problem just started the other day. I park in a very slightly inclined garage and now when I get into my car in the morning, the brake pedal is so stiff the brakes barely engage and the car will actually roll until the engine turns over. All other braking behavior is completely normal while driving and it only occurs if the car has been sitting overnight. Doesn't seem to happen if it just sits for a few hours.
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I've noticed that if I have the dimmer wheel dialed up to maximum brightness before the detente that puts the mfd back to regular daytime brightness (hope this makes sense), in about the next minute and a half after I turn the headlights on, the mfd dims to roughly half the original brightness.
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Super excited still just picked up a 13 cpo fsport awd, obsidian and cabernet. Playing with the set up and seeing some of the posts on here a couple questions I had.
#1. There's a DIY thread for changing the puddle light. I couldn't find in the settings how to turn those lights on. When I lock the doors or unlock, they don't turn on.
#2. In the phone settings, there's an option to show contact pictures for the caller ID. I tried a couple calls, but the picture doesn't show on the dash screen, but does on my phone.
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