Golf IV R32 :: Dash Lights Intermittently Going Out
Oct 15, 2012
I have been having a problem with my dash lights intermittently going out. They are out for good now. My interior lights, license plate lights, climate control and glove box lights are out as well. The fog lights work only if my high beams are on.
I have replaced all 5 and 10 fuses. I am wondering if I have a relay out, I don't really know anything about them except their location. I'm putting a friends light switch in tomorrow to see if that's it. I have a euro switch.
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I recently just got an R32, from a local guy in town. I love the car, and have driven it sparingly as I am still waiting on the title from the bank. As for now I'm doing the usual used car shake down.
I am having problems getting the gauge cluster lights to come on with the head lights. Sometimes when I move it over a bump or two it turns on. Sometimes the trick is to open and close the doors a few times it shakes the car into turning on the dash lights.
I know I have an electrical short somewhere, and I am not sure where to begin diagnosing this problem. Is it the switch? A bad connection to the gauge cluster? A bad wire? I've already pulled the switch and cleaned all the contacts. What else should I do?
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I just started getting 3 dash lights that come and go intermittently? ( I'm getting a (!), ABS and VSC lights in amber). I first had these three come on while I was traveling home one evening (traveling a little too fast /approx 84mph). This 2007 Prius has 276,000 miles on her. The lights will come on, them go out once I stop for a short period of time, or slow-down and travel at 40-50 mph.
I've checked the 12V battery and its seem to meet at the recommended voltages. I did have a recall on the inverter water pump around 150K. With that said, the pump does have circulation when I remove the cap? Over the 6+ years that I've owned this car, I've only changed the oil (synthetic), replaced tires, changed a water pump/alternator belt and a second set of replacement front brake pads. This has been the BEST car (maintenance and economy-wise) that I've ever owned! She's still consistently getting 48.2mpg. I've ordered the OBD pigtail and diagnostic software....
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I have a 2002 Hyundai elantra GT. Since I've got the car last year I've had this intermittent problem with the dash lights coming on every once in a while not really a lot at all. It never bothered me before because they would come on for maybe two minutes then turn off and didn't cause any problems whatsoever.? I think because they were coming on during the day. I never realized it happening at night time. In the last month the lights came on at night time and blew out all my headlights. I replaced them three times already. I read that maybe the alternator is overcharging. I haven't checked anything yet.. I'm very mechanically inclined. Just not with electrical...
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My dash lights have a weird glitch when the headlights are on. I can hear a click and the dash lights will go out and immediately back on almost like a blink.
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer. For about the last year some of the dash lights have been turning on and off randomly and intermittently. The three lights are the check engine, the airbag and less frequently, the check gauge light. It seems like there's some connection between the lights because often when one comes on so does another and often one will turn off, but immediately another will turn on. My mechanic (not a Ford dealer) tried to fix the check engine light by diagnosing and fixing the indicated codes, but a day later the light came back on. It stayed on for a week, then one morning it stayed off, but the airbag light came on. Is there some electronic (or other) component that links these three lights and could be causing this situation?
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My headlights and dash illumination lights will intermittently flicker when I use the turn indicator to signal a right hand turn. Is it possible that there is a short in the turn indicator/high-low beam headlight control switch that is causing this?
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The entire dash goes dark (all meters, gauges) somewhat randomly while driving around. The headlights and taillights all stay on when this happens.
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I've seen This Problem discussed about GMC models but not Toyota Avalon. Why does my '97 Avalon ABS & Track Off dash warning lights Continually flash on occasion? Also, on occasion while making a turn, my car just shuts off! So far, it's started right up without stranding me.
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My car sat for 2 days this week and was completely dead when I got back. I had the alternator and battery tested and they were both fine. I put everything back and ran a vag-com and it still shows running voltage at 9.7 volts. ABS and traction control lights are on intermittently. It seems to be having trouble starting which leads me to believe it's a bad starter but I don't know how that would drain my battery. The car also has a sunroof drain leak which got water on the monsoon amp. I've tried with and without the amp connected. No difference.
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This is about the third time this has happened to me now--at random times, on startup of the car, I get the TPM light and ESC light on in the dash. It usually takes up to a few minutes for them to disappear, but they have gone away each time. This is my first car with this sort of technology, so I'm not sure if this sort of thing is an expected electrical blip, or if it's something to be concerned about.
At this point I only have about 400 miles on my GTI, and have had it for a little over a month. I'm going back to the dealer later this week to pick up plates, and am thinking of having them check this, as well as a couple other small things.
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3 days ago I got dash lights, but no cranking. I hooked up my trickle charger that day and tried to fire her up today. The fuel pump primed when I opened the door and the windows moved quickly. Three days earlier they sounded sluggish.
I got her to start, but she wouldn't rev up right. Idle was tough to hold. Tapping the gas would sometimes increase revs and sometimes make it bog down. It went high idle (1-1.5k) on its own for a few seconds. Then went back to stumbling.
Finally the CEL tripped and she croaked. I'm remodeling the garage right now so I got back to that work without further troubleshooting. In the spring she ran like a champ.
I've never seen a car with a battery that was strong enough to start it run this bad. I guess it still could be the battery though. Not enough volt or amps to keep the ECU happy? The batt is older. 4-5 years iirc.
I have the older serial VAG-COM, but no old laptop to connect it to anymore. Been meaning to upgrade at Ross-tech, but haven't gotten around to it.
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I just recently my dash lights went out. As well as the left orange light up front and my left running tail light (brake light comes on still). Where did you start to trouble shoot this?
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I took my euro switch from my R and put it in my GLI and than put my GLI OEM switch in my R. After doing this now my gauges, radio and window lights are not working in both cars. I checked the fuses they are good and I even bought two new euro switches and still having the same problem.
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The switch for my lights have been giving me some issues recently. When I switch it on its turns on all my exterior lights but my dash lights don't come on. If I play with it for a little switching back and forth it will eventually work but it's really annoying.
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My R ran just fine two days ago. I went out to start it this morning and I get all crank. No turn over not even a pop. Now, it is 3 degrees outside right now. I've started my car many times in the cold with no issue. Weird thing is all of the lights on the gauge cluster all flash at the same time. I have a code for a secondary o2 but that obviously is not the case. And yes the fuel pump did prime when I opened the door.
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Car won't start this morning. Put the key in, turn it, and all the dash lights come on but the MPD flickers in sync a rapid clicking noise and I get an "Airbag Error" on the display. Lights, fans, etc work. This has to be tied to the fact that I totally blanked after going out to close my windows and left the keys in the ignition for approximately five hours. The key was in the ACC position, so I assume that led to battery drain on a battery approximately three years old. I've got a trickle charger on it now.
Just figured I'd check here verify that these batteries are not too temperamental/delicate for use with a trickle charger. Also to see if the general opinion is that running the car will recharge the battery or if I should just head out and replace it since three years seems to be the life of these batteries based on what I've read.
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On my dash the prnds lights flash constantly. The car shifts fine and the paddle shifters work too.
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I stored my car with a friend for a few months and of course he let it sit too long. He had to do a running start and now the dash lights are a penalty. I'm still out of town, but I am getting on a airplane right now to come home and be with my R again. He said the car was cutting of at stop lights, I'm sure he drove it cold.
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Noticed this afternoon that as it got dark outside, all dash and door lights aren't working.
The gauge cluster lights, VERY dimly, but delays by appx 2 seconds before coming on? Only switch light that still works right is the Red ring on the Headlight switch.
Again this is all lights, except lights in headliner work fine, gauge cluster lights very dimly with a delay?
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My .:R will not start/ stay running. I just put my turbo back on. It ran great when I pulled the turbo off to get it rebuilt. When I first started the .:R, it fired right up and ran okay. About a minute later it shut off like I turned off the key. I went to restart and all I got was cracking but no start. I checked everything over and tried again. It started but shut off about 30 seconds later. After that I couldn't get it to start just cracking. I gave up for a few hour to gather my thoughts. I went back and no start again.
So I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and tried again. It started but shut right off after a minute and wouldn't restart. So I disconnected the battery and tried again. It started again, so I revved the motor to about 3500 rpm and let it sit there and about a minute it shut off like I turned off the key. NOTE: All the dash light stayed on like the key is on but the engine acts like the key was turned off. The ECS light stays on the when the engine is running or not.
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