Golf IV R32 :: Cylinder 3 Misfire / 100,000 Mile Service
Feb 2, 2010
Whats going on in VW land. I have a little problem. Last week I got gas and as soon as I left the gas station the engine light came on. I ran diagnostics, which show cylinder 3 misfire. Looking for the easy way out I replaced the spark plugs (cylinder 3 plug was trashed), this did not fix the problem and my baby is still running like crap. What it may be or the next step I have to take?
I am approaching the 100,000 mile mark and in the service portion of our manual it doesn't say anything about changing belts. It only says they run diagnostic and check the car out.
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So I just brought my 2015 golf TDI in for its 20,000 standard service and then starting about 2 days later, every time I start the engine there is this rapid (and loud) ticking sound which goes on for 20 seconds or so before stopping. It almost sounds like it is coming from the passenger side speaker or under the passenger side dash. It sounds electronic in nature rather than mechanical but I'm not really sure.
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Anytime it rains my car has difficulty starting yet once it starts it runs rough for a while until it warms up and then runs fine. During one of these episodes the service engine soon light came on so I took it to a auto parts store that allows me to use a computer to read the codes. It indicated that there was a cyclinder misfire. I had the fuel filter replaced last summer and I also just recently cleaned the EGR valve however it has been 4 years since I had a tune-up. Why does this happen and What should I replace first? Spark plugs? Wires? Cap and rotor? Clogged fuel injector? Bad O2 sensor(s)?
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Having a strong odor/smell in there car after service at the dealer? I have a strong smell as if someone sprayed an aerosol can in the car or a marker was left without the lid on it. It has been 2 days since the service and the smell is still there. I called the dealer and they said they would take a look at it, but they didn't know what it would be. I though it might be the adblue since they did refill it, but I don't think that stuff has this strong of a smell and the filler is in the trunk area.
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Just had my 20,000 mile service yesterday on my Prius Plug In and got 10-15mpg loss in gas mileage today. It seems like ECO mode isn't even working anymore because MPG just drops to 15 MPG when you accelerate pass the half way point.
I'll take it back to dealership tomorrow? It should have only been a oil change and oil filter change. Reading some old threads makes me thing they put in the wrong oil?? It says 0W20 on service contract but not sure if correct.
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My 2008 Honda Element is approaching 100k miles and from what I read on the Element forums it's imperative that I have the valves adjusted.
I called several Honda dealers and they said, they're to be adjusted only if noisy.A local mechanic said he adjusts them only if the engine is skipping.
From what I read with Honda, if they are noisy (relatively speaking) then thats good; "A noisy lifter is a happy lifter". A tight (quiet lifter) can result in a burnt valve.
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Getting misfires on cylinder 1 and 5 in my 2001 Jetta GLX. Replaced coil pack. Installed a different/used cam position sensor.
Swapped injector 1 and 5 with 2 and 6. Cleaned MAF and throttle body and did adaptation. Checked resistance of plug wires and swapped plug positions.
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I had my car tuned over the weekend with apr stage 1. As soon as I went to start the car to leave I started getting a misfire on cylinder 4. We have tried swapping coils around and re-flashing the ecu with no luck.
Details on the car : 2010 GTI 6spd 21,000 miles
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I have a 2012 CC TSI. Driving normally this morning cylinder 1 had a constant misfire that I cannot diagnose. I have swapped plugs and coils and still cylinder 1 is dead. Then I compression tested. Got around 150 PSI and it holds. And I got the same pressure on the other cylinders. So my question is: What else haven't I checked? What could be causing this constant misfire?
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Alright Ive had a misfire on cylinder 1 for far too long. I've replaced all ignition coils and plugs with oem parts. Also replaced fuel pump and filter with oem. As well as 2 injectors. Before I would misfire under load, now I misfire at idle..wiring looks good and not cracked from what I can see. Only codes I reciece are random multiple misfire, misfire cylinder 1. And diverter valve mis function because of my BOV. So what do I do now vortex?
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New to the VW world but I am not out of my element for I am a Porsche guy. So I feel right at home. Last night I picked up a 2001 wolfy Jetta with a 1.8t on the cheap with a misfire on cylinder 4.
I have verified I have no spark on 4. I have confirmed the issue is not the spark plug, coil pack by swap and see method. My coil pack and plug work fine on another cylinder. I reset my cels and here are the new ones that pop up:
a 121 - gas pedal position sensor- doubt this would give me a no spark
a 304- Misfire on 4, (duh, like I needed to hear that)
a 030- bank one 02 -Doubt this would also give me a no spark condition)
In my testing:
I have good system voltage on the coil pack
I have good ground ohms
My signal wire is not shorted high or low
When I take V and ohm readings on the coil pack connection, either with the ign on or off they are all in line with the other sensors. So I don't think I have a wire issue.
The PO had the ECU replaced at a local dealer. I looked at the old ECU and it appears it had got wet at one point.
Im wondering if the same thing hasn't happened to the new one. however after they replaced the ECU they gave him the car back still broken. So it never ran even with the new ECU.
1 Where is the ECU?
2 What tells the ECU to fire the coil packs at the right time?
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Bad coil pack after 8k. Was getting a misfire on cyl 1 under heavy throttle so I swapped the coil with cyl 4 and the misfire is on cyl 4 now.
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My 2010 gti has a p30030 misfire cylinder 3 only on cold starts. Swapped plugs and coil packs, still only on 3. Took a look inside every cylinder and found that there was some oil in the cylinder only cylinder 3. So much blow by that it kind of collected in the cylinder? Carbon cleaning needed?
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PO302 CODE . Lets hope that it's only cylinder 2 coil or spark plug !
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So I've been having some problems with my 2003 Volkswagen Golf lately (2.0 L gasoline engine, 98k miles). It started with an engine coolant thermostat code. This was repaired by replacing the thermostat and housing. Shortly after this fix I began to get a misfire, especially on rainy and humid days. Checking other forums I discovered that this was probably the result of a bad ignition coil.
The coil, spark plug wires and plugs were all replaced, but I am still getting a misfire. The idle is very rough so I've heard that it could be a bad fuel injector or faulty ground (though with the new components the other three cylinders sound cherry). The next step would be to purchase a "noid" test light and determine if the electronics to the injector are bad. I've also read that it could be a vacuum problem. There is a smell of unburned fuel when the engine is running.
How was it repaired? I'm quite good with the mechanical parts but lack the diagnostic tools, vacuum testers, multimeter and other such devices for performing complete screenings of the vehicle. Also, I can't drive it out to the local auto parts store to read the new error codes anymore. Finally I've got a "Chilton's" for the car but if there is a better manual available (better pictures, more descriptive instructions).
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Had car flashed a little under a month ago to stage one. Car has 33k on it. Only other mods are the stage one Carbino. Weather has been extremely cold (5-15 degrees). Noticed a few days ago in 4th gear at WOT car was sputtering, acting almost as if the clutch was slipping. Last night, thinking it was the clutch, tried a 4th gear pull up a hill from 2000 RPM, car damn near stalls.
Today, heading home car goes into limp mode and barely got it in the driveway. Very rough idle pulling both the EPC and CEL codes P0300, P0301, and P130A. Below is the file from VCDS. After some searching it appears this may be coil pack related, it's too cold to start switching them around at the moment, but I wanted some keener eyes to see the info I pulled. I am considering replacing the packs with the R8's and getting new NGK plugs just to see what happens.
Address 01: Engine (CCT) Labels: 06J-906-026-CCT.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 115 AM HW: 1K0 907 115 AA
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0030
Revision: AAH07--- Serial number:
Coding: 0403010A18070160
[Code] ......
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2000 Jetta GL 2.0 AEG. I am receiving the P0304 which I have identified as Cylinder misfire #4. I read on some previous posts that I cannot be the distributor because if it was I would be receiving misfires on two cylinders. The spark plugs are OEM NGK and have been replaced recently.
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I am a new vr6 owner. I just purchased mine not to long ago. It seems to have developed a pretty mean misfire on Cylinder #4. It is also showing a low compression level of 90 on cylinder #4. all my other cylinders show somewhere between 105-110. I replaced my wires and my coilpack. It did not improve anything, infact, my car seems to run worse now. I am baffled as to what can be causing my misfire.
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Alright so my car is popping up 4 codes.
P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
Vehicle: 1999.5 VW Jetta MK4 2.0L GLS (AEG)
The P0411 code I have had for a while now and I been lacking to fix it. I pretty sure I can get this fixed but it doesn't cause problems so I haven't paid to much attention to it. Anyways, the other day I noticed a puddle of coolant under my car so after checking it out, the water pump was leaking so I bought a new one and replaced the old one. However, during the replacement process I had to remove the timing belt and I accidentally turned the top pulley about 1 notch and didn't notice at the time. After putting everything back on, I turned my car on and the engine sound a bit weak so I ran for about 10 minutes around a couple blocks.
I instantly noticed that the car had no power and it took me a long time to speed up. When I got back, I plugged in my scanner and I only had the same P0411 code and nothing else. After carefully reviewing the camera I had recording during the water pump replacement, I notice I had turned the top pulley a bit so I went ahead and removed the timing belt, readjusted it, and it worked! I was excited that the car was working fine again. Soon after, I headed out to take a drive and noticed after 60MPH the car didn't have much power. The car still accelerates after 60MPH, but extremely slow. As soon as I arrived back home, I plugged in my scanner and that is where I seen the 4 codes. Now my question is what could have caused this? Could I have damaged something when I ran my car with the incorrect timing?
Things I have done so far:
-I checked to see if I left anything unplugged.
-I checked for any vacuum leaks
-I checked my oxygen sensors so see if I was running rich/lean
Things I will do after work today:
-Check the spark plugs
-Check spark plug cable for damage
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I recently changed my spark plugs + coil packs in my 01 1.8T because it read a couple cylinder misfire codes. Drove it for a few days out of curiosity plugged the code reader in again and it's still reading misfire codes. What could the issue be still?
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