Golf IV R32 :: Cranks But Won't Start After Cluster Swap
Sep 30, 2015
I haven't been able to start the car since I did a cluster swap a few days ago. Both my keys fobs are adapted so it's not the immobilizer. I'm not even sure if this has anything to do with the cluster swap, but it seems like too big a coincidence for my car not to start all of a sudden. I've done a cluster swap before on my TDI and didn't have any issues.
Fuel pump primes when I open the door, I have spark, and I've done a throttle body alignment but it won't start.
Measuring Block 022 under instruments shows that everything should be fine as far as the cluster swap
With the new cluster adapted, VCDS is supposed to show the car's VIN and immobilizer ID under the first extra field in the instruments address. The immobilizer ID shows up correctly, but three characters in the middle of the VIN show up as ZXX for some reason:
It does show the full VIN and immobilizer ID under Engine> measuring block 081 though.
I even put the original cluster back in the car and it still doesn't start.
The car has a UM tune and was running great before this happened.
VCDS shows no fault codes.
View 20 Replies
Advertisement
The cluster works fine in the car. MFA works. The immobiler does activate but my ecu has an immobilizer defeat so it doesn't kill the car. I'm not having any of the usual issues with cluster swaps. I'll get the immobilizer issue recoded later. My issue is with the fuel level indicator. I have half a tank of fuel and it is reading full. I've researched and found out the r32 has 2 fuel sending units and this may be where the problem is. If so is it a matter of re-adapting the cluster or is it slightly more complicated than that?
View 3 Replies
Finally finshed the installing the new motor. Motor cranks but wont start. I have spark on all cylinders. Pressure in fuel rail but not sure how much. I don't hear any "clicking" coming from the fuel injectors. i measured the resistance on the injectors and its good. I just went out and got a new battery for it. I am not sure where to go from here.
View 14 Replies
So I noticed this is a common problem in several scenarios. Some are electric failures and key failures and computer failures....And other times they happen when you switch the cluster.
I had a blacked out cluster with a couple broken gauges and after spending an hour swapping the cluster I get a crank but no start. I tried switching the 301 and 304 fuses (fuel pump and PCM) as that was mentioned somewhere online but it did nothing. Any quick fixes or do I need to tow it to a dealership?
2001 Supercrew with 4.6L and 4x4
View 14 Replies
I found a instrument gauge cluster out of a 2005 XLT that I would like to put into my 2005 XL. It has the tach that I miss. The mileage is less. Will I have any problems switching them - i.e.,: lights not working, etc? Will the onboard computer correct the mileage?
View 4 Replies
About a month ago I went to start my car and it started up and died and now it won't start at all. All it does is crank and crank and crank. My vagcom say j271 relay open circuit . so I replaced the 428 relay and it still doesn't start. I'm also not getting any epc or cel light with the key in the on position which is strange to me. But if I swap the 428 relay with the 100 relay right next to it I get all the dash lights like I'm suppose to but as soon as I try to start it the two lights go out and won't come back on until I pull the relay out and put it back in. I hate obd2 so much sometimes.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2008 r32 that was always 100% reliable until now. One owner, no wrecks, 90k miles, all services done by the dealer and the car is in perfect condition-except it won't start. I noticed symptoms a few weeks ago - a little longer cranking time to catch and then it slowly got worse. More tires at cranking until it would catch and run. Had it to the local dealer- 3 Rivers VW, they checked it out and said there were no codes -they said after talking to VW tech to disconnect the battery to "reset" the system.
It worked for two days and then it completely died- I think their "repair" ($200 in diagnostic time) was a waste. Two days later complete zero-cranks but won't start- flat bedded to dealer again this time they have the car for ten days! First they replace the ignition switch (said it was worn/loose) , then the battery ground strap in the trunk- said it showed to much resistance (4.5 ohms), they then called and said it still wasn't starting right-need to keep it for another day. Last they replaced a relay - part number 1KO-951-253. They declared it fixed! Car started for ONE day now nothing again. Searched - crank sensor, fuse, coil packs, etc- but no solid leads.
View 19 Replies
Car cranks over. Its getting fuel (you can smell it). Sometimes it tries to start but then putters out. Cam Position sensor? I haven't had a chance to pull codes. Ill hook it up to a vag com in the morning when i get back to work (car is parked there for now).
View 24 Replies
I've got a Mk4 Golf 2.0L with 136k on the clock. Hasn't really given me any problems in the past year of ownership till now. I recently picked her up from the shop for a rear axle beam replacement. When I picked her up she drove fine. I headed to class for the day and she sat in a parking lot for 6 hours or so. I hop in and try to fire her up and nothing. Had to have her towed back to my apartments. I've checked fuses, spark plugs were recently replaced but I am getting no spark. When I crank it I do hear the fuel pump and I can smell gas when I crank it. The rpms go up just a bit, 100-200 range. Going to check out the crankshaft sensor later on. maybe it could be the coil pack as well? I don't know a huge amount about these cars, only some info. And I sadly have no access to a scanner to check for codes.
View 2 Replies
It happened about 6 months ago, when I was getting ready to leave work then all of a sudden, the R wouldn't start. Flipped the key on and off in the ignition a few time and it started. had a weird idle, bouncing all around at about 1000rpm. Driving it home, the car wouldn't hold an idle and i had to play with gas the whole way home. Once home i could not get her to start again. Checked for spark, had spark but change all 6 plugs and coils anyways cause the service was due.
I scanned the car with a scanner just to check the codes and all i got was a pending crankshaft sensor code. Replaced the sensor cause it wasn't too expensive and i didn't want it to be an issue. I have also notice at the time that the fuel pump wouldn't initially prime when opening the driver door. Got a new job, and didn't have the time to mess with the R, but now I am trying to get her running again.
With the fuel pump not priming I immediately went to think of fuel, and replaced the fuel pump relay with a brand new dealer one. I haven't retested for air/fuel/spark since I just started to re-work on it. But last time I did have spark as when I sprayed some starter fluid, she chugged a little. Also now, when i disconnect and reconnect the battery i hear the initial prime, but when the key is turned to the on position, I don't notice a secondary charge.
I checked the fuel line before the rail and there is some type of pressure(I don't have the tool to check precise pressure). I also scan the car now with just a code reader and I come up with nothing current or pending. I am in the process of trying to borrow a vagcom to read further into the car.
View 6 Replies
Any way, working on an '04 R32 (as you could assume) that has a crank with no start condition. All fuses have been checked and have been verified as functional. Have replaced both J271 and J363 relays (labelled '428' and '100' on top in engine compartment in relay location next to brake fluid reservoir. Battery was also recently replaced as was the crankshaft position sensor.
Background: Vehicle was towed to dealership where it was diagnosed (somehow) initially by their tech that there was power all the way up until injectors and then nothing happens. This didn't make sense at the time, but the work was authorized to remove the intake manifold and fix the wiring underneath. A short time later (3 hours) and returned to the dealership to check on progress as we happened to be in the area and the S/A spoke with the tech and came back and said that he didn't think it was the wiring after all. Instead, at this point, he thought that it was the crankshaft position sensor. So after they decided they wanted to do several more hours of dio without contacting in advance (thinking that the repair was already authorized) they were no further ahead. I insisted on having the car towed out of there after they couldn't tell me for certain what it was. I can throw parts at a vehicle all day long as well.
The vehicle was towed out of there and the crankshaft position sensor was replaced. After the fact, a friend with Ross Tech verified that it was getting a signal (and more than likely replaced unnecessarily). Additionally, he also verified that injectors were also getting power and everything else was alright. The Auto Scan (posted below) showed that there was a Power Supply Relay for ECU fault (Fault Code: 17925) and that the two fuses - J271 and J363 were more than likely at fault. Both fuses were located under the hood but I also found a secondary location under the driver's side dash that had another basic power fuse labelled '100'.
Additionally, I don't believe it is the fuel pump that is at fault. I pulled the sender hose off of the fuel rail and inserted it into a juice container and it sprayed enough fuel to have started the engine. Currently, I am at a loss and very frustrated with this whole ordeal. The vehicle had been driven to work and sat all day, not exhibiting so much as an ounce of anything wrong. End of day, leaving work, the car would just crank and crank. Would it make sense to pull the plugs and let them dry out because of the excessive cranks? Maybe they're just fouled? Sometimes we get too caught up in codes and parts that it's easy enough to overlook basics. I don't really know, I guess. Below is the full Auto Scan from Ross Tech. The one I believe is contributing to the no-start is in bold. Just a side note, the dealership told me that NO CODES were present. This conflicts with what I have here...
Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75 76
VIN: WVWKG61J74D132718 Mileage: 164180km/102016miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 022-906-032-BJS.lbl
Part No SW: 022 906 032 EG HW: 14. 4.0 3
Component: MOTRONIC ME7.1.1G 5626
Coding: 0000132
[Code] ....
View 22 Replies
So I bought a project golf vr6, but the head and some of the components were off, I have all the parts but I just cannot figure out why it is not wanting to start, it cranks over but does not start...
View 1 Replies
I am having a problem starting my VW Golf 2.0 since yesterday. When i turn on the ignition the car cranks up but does not start. I did a computer odb check and it gave me out some error codes.
here are a few things that i noticed sometime back:
While driving once or twice suddenly the car wasn't accelerating when i pressed the accelerator. This happened to me twice but then it was OK. Didn't have an issue again.
Sometimes the car gear doesn't shift gear i have to shutdown the car and start it again, then it shifts gear properly. I feel like the car is consuming a bit extra fuel. How I can fix this and what the issue is?
View 2 Replies
Ok, so I ran my car battery COMPLETELY dead the other day. After replacing the battery and checking to ensure that it had sufficient power, i tried starting it. It cranks over very solid, but will not start. I sent it to the dealer, and their diagnostic tools receive question marks back from all the modules. This has led us to the conclusion that my ECU (ECM) needs to be reset, or has malfunctioned in some way. There is an aftermarket flash on the ECU, but I do not know by which company as it was flashed when I bought the car. How can I do a hard reset on the ECU?
View 9 Replies
My 03 GTI 1.8 is having start issues. It cranks up fine, but it sputters to a start. It doesn't idle high and fall down to the 850 mark like normal, it just lugs itself into low idle. I have to then throttle it until it stops sputtering and I have a smooth rev. Then after that, the car runs fine. I can stop it and start it up again fine when it's warmed up. I have checked multiple things already.
-The Ignition coils are in excellent condition
-Spark plugs are normal, but not exactly perfect
-Fuel pump works fine
-Battery was tested and is clean and good
-Throttle Body is clean (at least to the eye, Im cleaning it next)
-Oil was changed when I changed the sensor along with filter.
I should mention I changed the crankshaft position sensor a month ago. The block at least from under the car is filthy, but I don't know if that affects anything.
I had a check engine light, so I got its codes read (I'm out rn, but when I get home I can show you) and decided to just take it to a shop. When I took it, the light went away, decided to start as normal, and the shop just charged a huge fee for the diagnostic and nothing was fixed. I really need to know what to do with this, I daily it every day and its starting to bother me a lot now.
View 16 Replies
So to make a long story short, I've gone boost In my mliv r32 and the car ran no problem...I have installed an hpa cvp short runner IM...at first it was leaking from the injectors so I replaced my O rings and the fuel pump fuse as it looked fried...the car won't start...just cranks and cranks and cranks....wont turn over...
View 7 Replies
Recently my 01 Jetta 1.8T has started to not start like it should. Say every 4th or 5th start it cranks and cranks, I see the tach eventually flick a couple of times and then it finally fires up. It's also stalled while I'm driving, say when I stop at a light but will usually start up again ok.
After the not so good start I get the impression the car is kind of surging while driving - like a fuel supply issue although maybe the fuel pump has nothing to do with supply after starting?
So anyway my thought is perhaps fuel pump issue? I decided to try and search for my issue or fuel pump issues but it talks about things that happen when you open the drivers door which in my case isn't working properly (i.e., I believe it is a DLM as my windows sometimes all go down and I don't get any chime or door light when the door opens).
So just wondering if based on what I'm experiencing if fuel pump sounds likely and perhaps what further tests I should run. My battery is new and the engine does crank pretty good if that eliminate it. I guess I should be thinking fuel filter perhaps also.
View 6 Replies
Lately my car takes 2-3 cranks before it starts and I'm thinking it could be my fuel pump. There were a few times recently it took like 8 cranks to start. How to test fuel flow to see if it has issue? Also, could a old battery cause this issue?
View 18 Replies
The car cranks absolutely 100%, in no way is this the battery, it just will not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't shutting off, I only had a quarter tank in the car, I figured as hot as it was today I was getting some vapor lock with the fuel. Went and got some gas, still wouldn't start, then the dash started yelling at me telling me I have no oil pressure, shut off the car.........car you are not running calm down. So then there's that along with the car not starting. I took the fuel hose off to make sure I was getting fuel, I was, so I took the key back out, but the car would not give up, the fuel pump kept going and the dash was blinking violently. When I put the hose back on and got compression it finally stopped, that can't be how the cars work can it? The fuel pump doesn't shut off if there's no compression? Checked all fuses and the fuel pump relay, every was fine, the fuel pump even still ran with the relay out. What could be going on, I can't seem to find one damn thing even related to the fuel pump not shutting off.
View 24 Replies
Was driving normal and my 2004 r32 died. It felt just like it ran out of gas. Fuel pump was not making any noise. I replaced fuel pump relay and now i can here the fuel pump making noise. Pulled the fuel pump line off and fuel is coming out the line. So now i checked for spark and have none. I have 12 volts at the coils. I ohmed out the crank sensor and have .777 k ohms. I also checked codes with generic snap-on scanner and found no codes.
View 2 Replies
My 01 Jetta 2.0 started having issues a few days ago. The engine would crank, but wouldn't start. Wait a few minutes and it would start right up. I go to start it the next day and it would crank, but not start at all. I pulled the P0322 code and replaced the crankshaft sensor along with a new fuel pump, and spark plugs just to be safe.
Next, I checked for fuel and spark, which I have both. The car still won't start and seems to lose a charge on the battery pretty quick. At this point, there are no codes showing up. Could the engine be flooded from trying to start it so much?
View 3 Replies
