Golf IV R32 :: Coolant Gauge Suddenly Goes Straight To Cold And Stays There
Dec 10, 2009
so on last saturday while i was driving my coolant gauge went from "operating temp" and dropped to cold. I was at cold for a few seconds and then bounced between cold and "operating temp" a few times before.
Now this morning driving to work the car warmed up fine to "operating temp". I was driving to work and all the sudden the gauge just goes straight to cold and stays there. I tried messing with the heater control buttons, turned on the a/c, defrost, heat, blower on high, blower on low... everything. Needle never moved from cold. I had heat at every temp desired, a/c got cold when i turned it on. I don't have a cel or any error codes showing...
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I have a '99 1.8T Passat. The coolant temperature gauge normally reaches operating temperature of 190 degrees within about 5 minutes and stays there. For some reason, after reaching 190, it sometimes drops by 20-30 degrees and is running cooler than normal. Once time it dropped down, then came back up again, while driving a steady 65 mph. The coolant level is full and nothing else has changed.
I guess there are a few possibilities: a thermostat stuck open too far, a failing temperature sensor, bad gauge, or loose connection at the sensor. The car has 145K miles and the thermostat and water pump were replaced at about 100K miles. What is going on? If it runs a little too cool, is that a big deal? How would I diagnose it? Where is the temperature sensor?
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I have a 2001 ford ranger xlt 2.3L and the temperature gauge has been staying a cold. And my heat doesnt heat well. I'm guessing I need to replace the thermostat. Before I do that could it be anything else?
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Got a Vr6 a couple weeks ago and recently the gauge has been acting strange. Few days ago the gauge went from normal to showing completely empty and did that for a couple days (gauge would just display normal and occasionally just drop straight to empty and sit there until restart) but yesterday it started just sitting on full. Even when restarted just goes to full. I assume its the sender unit ....
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I have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
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This morning I started my car and all was well, all gauges working. Drove 2 miles and stopped to get gas. Put some gas in my car and started it back up. My gas gauge never went up. Stayed slammed down to the E. All my other gauges were working normally except the gas. My gas light was not on saying I was on E, and I don't have a CEL.
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My 04 Explorer 4WD sways left and ten to the right over and over when driving 60-70 mph and steering slightly to the left. Feels like something might be loose. It veers to the left then suddenly back to the right until I drive straight. Seems better at slower speeds and driving straight ahead.
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Four days into it the low tire pressure indicator lights up. Hit the reset, checked the tires, deflated some air and filled back up, etc and the indicator is still on. Even my local shop couldn't fix it. So yesterday I'm driving home and the fuel gauge suddenly stops registering, the needle drops below the red empty line. This morning I start it up and the fuel gauge is working, for about a minute, then it drops again. Same situation after stopping to get a cup of coffee. I'm taking it to a dealer today. Think the problem could be a defective speedo gauge cluster?
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The A/C does not blow cold. The Compressor clutch does kick on and stay on The passenger side fan kicks on only (I think the driver side is toast but i need to test it to confirm) The system has 45psi on the low side
I did not check the high side as I don't have a gauge for it but will get one if I need to test that. So my thoughts are that my expansion valve is toast which is what expands the hot liquid and turns it to cool liquid so the A/C gets cold. I think this because it seems all of the other components work.
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The coolant gauge jumps from 0 to 190, comes down to 0, stays at 1/4 the way down... jumps to 190, sometimes stays at 190, sometimes stays at 0. All this while driving. I was thinking it could be the temperature sensor since it's not a green top? I also read there are other parts like the sender that could be the problem. I have been trying to find similar problems and was unlucky.
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Lately my engine/coolant temp gauge has been screwing with me. It is either been almost at 190* or dead 90-100*
It seems to go up when in the lower RPM range (idle-2000) and goes down when in the higher range (4000-redline I suppose).
I stayed at or above 4000rpm on my way home from work for 3-4 minutes and it was almost at 90*...went to 5000 for 2 minutes, same thing. I shifted to 6th and it rushes to 190*.
So is my sensor bad or what?
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I have a MKV R32 / 2008 Model / 45,000km /
Over the past few weeks, since the temp has been blazing here in Okinawa, I've noticed it takes up to 10 minutes for the AC to actually kick in.
I don't think it 'just needs time to circulate freon' because at right around the 10 minute mark it suddenly blasts cold air. It's pretty darn annoying.
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The needle has always stuck dead on 190f when it gets up to temp. About a week ago I took the center grill of to paint, I put it back on and the check engine light came on ... code p2433 secondary air pump problem. I figured I had just disturbed something etc. Now the coolant gauge is going up to around 240f during normal driving, the fan stays on for about a minute when I turn off the ignition.
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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Recently my car had a stroke.... the fuel gauge (analog) stays on zero (digital-miles remaining in tank) says ---- even though i just put gas in, the ac isnt working the outside temp reads -- celsius when it should say something and fahrenheit, driver side switches only puts down driver side window, i can't move the side mirrors the controls are unresponsive. the radio won't turn off on its own when i turn the car off or start on its own when i turn the car on. the car is driving fine no change in how it responds. the only thing wrong is 95% of all the electronics.
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The a/c in my 05 Saturn Vue suddenly began fluctuating from cold to barely cold. In May I replaced the compressor, condenser, and accumulator. It blew cold until 2 weeks ago when it started blowing cold when it felt like it... ... I really don't want to spend more $ or time with my mechanic... Should I just give it a Freon charge?
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not sure if this is normal or not. usually ONLY comes when I turn my car on for the first time of the day. (cold start obviously, keep in mind its cold where i live at this time of year), there is a weird whistling like sound. goes away when the rpm gauge hits 10/ after 1 minute of the engine running. at odd times it will come on again after leaving the car off for a few hours, after work for example. I was told it because I'm using the wrong coolant??
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My fuel guage stopped working, it just stays on empty, no sign of moving when the ignition is turned on and off. What the voltages should be or have a good system for problem solving this to locate where the problem is.
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My 07 Santa Fe fuel gauge doesn't seem to be working. what can the problem be??
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I have a 95 Chevy astrology van that I've owned for about a year. On occasion (about once a month) when I start it, the battery gauge stays in the red and all the lights are dim. After driving a bit I can stop the van and restart it, and the battery gauge normally shoots up to normal, and lights are all bright again. Don't have any problems outside of that, until now. For the last 4 day, my battery gauge has refused to pop out of the red, and lights are always dim. I can drive for a couple hundred miles and nothing changes. Last night, as I left work, it ran like it has been with low battery and then just died. There is no clicking, no "whirring" sound the starter normally makes, the battery just died. I'm on a very small budget and can't afford a shop, or both battery and alternator. What are your thoughts on this problem and where should I invest my money? As a side note, battery cables and posts are cleaned off, and are bolted securely. Nothing loose and no corrosion.
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After about a 5 mile drive my '05 6 cyl Santa Fe always smells hot. The temp gauge needle always stays mid point. Coolant is good and is changed regularly. No oil in coolant or coolant in oil. No cracks in recovery bottle or hoses. All hoses tight, has been pressure tested and is ok. No heater core leak, no visible leaks anywhere in the engine compartment or under the car and no green patches on the radiator. After about a week of driving the recovery bottle level is down about 3/4" but the radiator is full to the neck. Where the coolant is going and how to locate the source?
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