I have these two items removed and before I hit the road with the car I would like to get these damn sensors outta my cluster. What ohm resistors I need for each item? I lost my meter and would really like to not buy another.
View 15 RepliesSo my windshield washer fluid sensor popped on a couple of months ago, checked fluid (was full), I concluded that it was a failed sensor. I ordered a new one from ECS, put in last wknd, and finally: the low-level warning light disappeared. A few days later, I was adding some fluid into the reservoir (it was a new bottle and had no funnel) and I spilled a few drops. The spilled amount seemed to drop near the sensor plug, but didn't think it was a big deal. Went into work, came out later to head home, and you guessed it: the low-level light came back on (with a FULL reservoir).
I removed the plug yesterday, blew it out, but it didn't change a thing. Anyway, is it possible the sensor shorted because somehow some of the fluid go into the connection? If I hookup the vagcom, will I be able to tell if there is an issue (I know it didn't before when the first sensor failed). Is there even a fuse for the fluid sensor?
2002 ford sport trac.I have been having an ongoing issue that started with the engine cranking but would not turn over until an hour passed. After replacing multiple parts (cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition pack) I am now down to poor fuel economy as the last of the issues (roughly 12 in the city and 15 highway). I was told the issue may be the engine coolant temperature sensor going bad so I decided to replace it. I found this was very difficult due to it being a plug and locking pin design and in a very tight spot in the engine.
I tried to purchase a replacement and the parts store kept trying to insist on selling me a part with threading. I finally found someone that figured out the issue and found the part for the 2001 sport trac had the same plug style with clip that did fit but was shaped a little different on the sensor end which I assume was due to being aftermarket. I noticed that there were two plugs side by side and the one easiest to access was on the left and I was told the one on the right was the sensor that gave the temperature reading to the gauge.
After installing the engine coolant temperature sensor I found the temperature gauge on the dash now will not respond and is sitting below the cold end of the gauge completely off. Is it possible this is because the part was for a 2001? Is the sensor on the left (passenger side) the engine coolant sensor?I would hate to put the old sensor back in just to test if that's the issue due how difficult it was to put that locking pin back on. What to check that could resolve the gauge issue before pulling this sensor back out?
Where the Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the R32? Need to replace it. I searched but luck so far.
View 23 RepliesI just bought a 2002 v10 crew cab, everything great form the first 3 months, but then my coolant sensor stopped working, changed it, and the same thing! Only works a couple of times, and the truck started to rough idle a little, and now I have black smoke coming out of the exhaust!
View 3 RepliesSo my check engine light came on in my 04 jetta sw, and when I had the car read, it gave me a code that tracked down to be a bad coolant temp sensor. I bought the replacement part from my local VW dealership, installed it and the check engine light went away. Now about 2 weeks late it came back on, and I am getting a reading of "Coolant temp sensor high voltage". So it goes from needing replaced, then the replacement is running high voltage?
View 3 RepliesThrew a coolant temp sensor code yesterday morning:
16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62): Signal too high
p0118 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent - MIL ON
Does throwing that code once mean I need to replace the CTS immediately or am I safe to clear the code and see if it returns? No code today after a 40 minute drive.
I just replaced my CTS, and I noticed that there is a small section of exposed harness wiring between the end of the loom and the CTS connector. I can't tell if it came loose when I swapped the sensor, or if it was this way for awhile, but all of the other harness connections around this area are completely covered and the loom end doesn't seem to clip into the connector or anything. If I were to try and seal it, I would need to use tape.
How hot does this area get? It seems like there shouldn't be exposed wiring here.
Picture taken with the new sensor: [URL] ...
I drive a 2001 Jetta with the 2.8 v6 with ~125k miles
So for a while my car was giving me a false read on my temperature so I replaced the sensor. I actually followed instructions from a thread on this site. [URL] ....
Now when I go to drive my car, it runs sluggish and misfires if I really give it some gas. CEL is on(however does not return a code when hooked to a computer), and flashes when gassed hard.
I've checked to make sure spark plug wires were reconnected correctly and securely. No leaking has occurred from the temp sensor. shift rod drive unit is reconnected correctly.
My temperature has been randomly dropping, them back to middle, and recently my engine was overheating because I'm guessing the fans didn't turn on, because I'm also guessing, the engine didn't know it was overheating?
Anywho, during my replacement, I made sure to get rid of the pressure, and the car was cold. I tightened the cap again, but when I took the sensor out, all the coolant spewed out.
Now if I understand this correctly, do I have a leak? I figured the leak I had was coming from the temp sensor as it is.
Here's some pictures for those who'd like to see ....
I recently got the solid check engine light for my 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GLS. I used a bluetooth OBDII dongle and Torque Pro to pull the code P0118. This seems to coincide with my symptoms:
Car idle at start in park stays around 1100RPM then in reverse it drops to 1000RPM then back into park and it stays around 900RPM and keeps that at idle.
If I start the car then immediately reverse out of my driveway then the car has a very rough idle but if I wait around 5 seconds in park idle then reverse out of my driveway it is smooth.
My car dash thermometer stays pretty close to the bottom low then after about 4-5 minutes it shoots up to 190F and stays. Gas mileage is also very poor.
I looked up a tutorial which shows the parts needed and how to replace the sensor : [URL] .....
I removed the engine cover and believe I found the coolant temp sensor in the spot the tutorial shows. My question is if there is anything I should be aware of before attempting to replace this sensor that this tutorial doesn't cover? I took a screenshot of what I believe is the coolant temp sensor.
My windshield washer warning light is stuck on. I think there is a good reason for it. My washer tank has been converted to a stand alone fuel cell filled with C16. Just looking for any ways to have the tank function properly. I assume the sensor, or float (if there is a float) went bad. Heard of people covering them in lacquer or something to repel moisture.
View 6 Replies So far i haven't been able to find a lot of solid info on this rain sensor. Here's what i know:
My sensor indeed works, if i remove it and move my fingers the wipers will speed up/slow down accordingly. It looks like the window has been replaced and a very "shotty" job was done replacing the sensor/rearview mirror.
There was extra adhesive around the sensor, i removed that and cleaned it up, also cleaned up the gel over the sensor. Reinstalled everything, still cannot get it to work.
If i have just the sensor on the windshield, it semi-works, but when i put the mirror back on, it doesnt work at all.
I know the sensor is good, i get the fastest wiper settings. Relay #192 is good.
My best guess:The sensor is going bad, or the gel isn't making a good enough contact with the windshield allowing it to "detect" the rain hitting it. You can tell the gel isn't in the best of shape and I am pretty sure that's the culprit.
Where to locate a rain sensor? or the Gel, or if any gel can be used, I am going to try and find something i can "substitute" in place of the gel thats on it.
On Sunday I'm driving to the store my LOW COOLANT light goes on. So I buy some coolant. I get home let the car cool off and check my radiator, it is full. My coolant recovery tank is also at the proper level.
Been three days already checked levels again and I'm not losing any coolant.
What the car is NOT doing:
1. Not losing fluid
2. Not running hot
I'm thinking coolant level sensor?
This morning when I started up my car the coolant light flashed red, an audible warning chime sounded and the MFI read that I need to check the manual. Because the light was flashing, the manual says there is an engine coolant system malfunction and I need to take it to the dealer. The car was completely cold at the start, so I turned it off, then back on and there was no warning. I drove to work and the temperature gauge read right where it should be the whole way. This afternoon, when I started it up to go home the same thing happened. By the way, the car has only 4800 miles on it.
View 23 RepliesNoticed my coolant was going down. also realized my driver side radiator fan was not working. I ordered the part, im on that. But (1) should or can I still drive my car to work? Also would my driver side fan cause some of the radiator fluid to evaporate.?
View 24 RepliesI recently bought an 2005, 3ltr diesel Phaeton (though packed with options) in Germany. I drove it home and was, and am, in awe of the motoring experience.
As a fan of cars I am lucky to own a Opel Speedster (VX 220 in the UK) and a Buick Riviera Boattail from 1972. But the Phaeton beats all of them together!
But......my newly acquired Phaeton failed the technical control over here in Belgium due to the headlight washers (squishers?) not working (coming out of the bumper). Not even with the manual override through the control screen.
Dealer have checked every fuse, replaced on of the batteries which was not functioning properly (and was causing numerous 'power' errors). The car has been with them for two weeks now and I am getting desperate to drive my car.
I just bought a 1995 S10 4x4 for my son and the windshield washer pump is not working. It doesn't make a sound and I have measured that no voltage is going to the hot side of the harness going to the pump. The ground tested fine. It was also having wipers issues where they stopped at random places when turned off and the timing was screwy. I removed and resoldered the wiper pulse board and cleaned up the contacts. Wipers are good, but still no squirter.
View 2 RepliesMy car was involved in accident 12 december 2014, still not got car back now garage. Windscreen washer not working no power to pump and they have changed the pump. I was supposed to get it back 4 times and its still not fixed.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2014 Passat Wolfsburg Edition, 1.8 TSI + DSG. When I pull the stalk towards me, the Washer does not work, although the wipers swing after the normal delay. I hear no 'whirring' noise.
I first noticed the issue when I was driving through some wintry weather- the washers had been working, then stopped. I assumed it was out of Washer fluid, so I filled it up, but it's still not working. Weather has been above freezing for a couple days now. I've checked all the fuses and none appear blown.
Which fuse controls the washer, so I can double-check it? How to get at the pump?
The front windshield washer is not working. I can hear the pump running but no fluid comes out. The rear washer works fine.
View 2 Replies