Golf IV R32 :: Coolant Temp Gauge Go Up When RPM Low And Goes Down When In Higher Range
Sep 12, 2011
Lately my engine/coolant temp gauge has been screwing with me. It is either been almost at 190* or dead 90-100*
It seems to go up when in the lower RPM range (idle-2000) and goes down when in the higher range (4000-redline I suppose).
I stayed at or above 4000rpm on my way home from work for 3-4 minutes and it was almost at 90*...went to 5000 for 2 minutes, same thing. I shifted to 6th and it rushes to 190*.
So is my sensor bad or what?
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My CEL is on for P0116 Engine Coolant temp circuit, range or performance problem. I replaced the CTS, thermostat, and did a complete coolant flush/replacement last November. Car worked well over the winter no issues. Last week when the CEL came on it gave me P0301 and P0440 as well. I did a reset and the lights stayed off for the week. Then P0116 came back. Is it possible that the CTS is bad again? I measured the resistance on the CTS and hot it is about 300 ohms and cold is 2.45k ohms.
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Coolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
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At idle temperature is above middle. Upper radiator hose, which is connected to the thermostat is hot. Lower radiator hose that feeds back to the engine is cold. Radiator fan will not stop running if the temp guage is at middle to needle above middle. When running the temperature reading is normal at 30 mi/hr (middle to just below middle). Temperature will also go down if at high rpm idle, about 2,500 RPM.
New thermostat replaced last week. Water pump replaced less than one year ago. Upper radiator and lower radiator hoses are pressurized when running and off.
I suspect the thermostat was installed incorrectly. Pressurized hoses mean excess air in the cooling circuit/system. If so, does it mean I have to bleed out the air? How do you bleed out the air on a cooling circuit of a car, I thought the reservoir tank already does that naturally? I think the normal range for the temp guage should be 1/3 of the whole range of the guage, right?
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I have a 77 F100 2wd 302/c4. I recently replaced the rear plate to my gauge cluster after it crumbled to pieces. I swapped all the gauges to the new plate minus the fuel gauge since it decided it couldn't live if livin was without the old plate. I have a gauge cluster out of my 75 and decided to swap in my fuel gauge from that one. I put the cluster in the truck and fire it up for 10 mins or so and everything is working great except the temp gauge isn't moving. I figure it romeo and Juliet with the fuel gauge so I just swap all gauges from the 75 into the 77 cluster except the speedo. Same result.
So I figure its the sending unit now and maybe both gauges were fine to begin with. I put in a new sending unit and now the gauges works but the needle sits on the P in the word TEMP on the gauge which makes me uncomfortable. That's about 1/4 inch or so from being past the end of the gauge. I don't believe the truck is running that hot. The gauge was more or less straight vertical before the swap sitting right at the end of the E on TEMP. Did I get a bad sending unit? Is it a bad ground on the gauge? Was I supposed to take off the teflon tape that came on the threads of the sending unit? I'm gonna try removing that first and see if it lowers the needle.
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I was sitting in my car on lunch break. I noticed the temp gauge was higher than normal. Then I noticed a little steam coming out from under the hood. When I checked, there was antifreeze leaking out from where the tube connects to the overflow tank. It didn't look like there was a hole in the tube, it was squirting out right where the tube connects to the tank. I turned it off, and had to go back to work. I'm not mechanically inclined. When I got off work, I put a bottle or Bars stop leak in and filled it back up with antifreeze. Started it up, didn't seem to be leaking. Drove it home. Any time I am idling or cruising, the temp gauge will go up to the 3/4 mark , when accelerating it will drop to between 1/4 and 1/2, which is where it normally was.
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My temp gauge (which very seldom deviated form its position) is showing above normal temps. Yeah its over 90 here but this is unusual for my car to run hotter. I put in a new thermostat about 3 years ago. I've also been adding water/anti-freeze because there was a small leak (that I finally found in the hose) that I corrected. Could it be that my mixture isn't a 50/50 mix or is it my thermostat again? They say they don't last long anymore???
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Ok so here here goes I have a 1999 f250 super duty with 5.4 triton it seems to be over heating but the gage stays in the normal operating temperature range. I just changed the water pump. Could it be the thermostat and Would it hurt to remove the thermostat until I can get one...
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Well, I'm still driving the same old 1998 Honda Civic DX two-door coupe, and I've got a problem with overheating. The temperature gauge needle doesn't get quite to the red, but it's popping up higher than usual, and I'm concerned to see it getting anywhere near the red. It usually spikes when I get off the highway and stop at a light, but it also does it occasionally in a drive thru, and recently, I discovered that when I give it a little gas in neutral, it brings the temperature gauge needle down to normal.
Here is the history of recent repairs and troubleshooting:
-About 3-4 years ago, I had a leaky radiator replaced, so the one that is in there isn't very old.
-Last year I had a mechanic replace the thermostat, the radiator fan, and the radiator cap when I started having this problem.
-A few months ago, I had the timing belt serviced (the entire kit, not just the belt), but since the water pump looked fine and the car has so much mileage (275,000 miles), I opted not to replace the water pump. (I regret that now. I usually replace the water pump with every other timing belt, but I've learned my lesson.)-I've been to several shops to get a diagnosis, but they have a hard time getting it to overheat at all, so they can't diagnose it.
One guy suggested the water pump might be worn out (inside, without leaking outside). Another guy suggested that "if it was the water pump, you would know it's the water pump." Each mechanic has done a pressure test on the cooling system and a flow test on the radiator, and they all say they are fine. One mechanic theorized that I might have a very small head gasket leak, but nobody else thinks that is the case and there is no sign of coolant and oil mixing. Besides, the temperature gauge has never been in the red.
-One mechanic who tried to diagnose the problem recommended replacing the plugs, plug wires, rotor, and distributor cap. After doing that, it is running better than it was, but that didn't resolve the overheating problem. He also retarded the spark timing, but it is self-adjusting, so it re-advances itself after a couple days of driving. I can hear what sounds like minor knocking, but it's always made that noise since it was new.
-Everyone who has tried to diagnose the problem says the thermostat is opening and closing as it should, and the radiator fan comes on and shuts off when it should.
I'm done getting second and third opinions, and I'm ready to start throwing parts at it. Do you think I should start with the water pump? What are your thoughts? Don't tell me to replace the car. I just bought a new motorcycle.
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I just had my 1998 Passat 1.8T with 97000 miles checked since the engine light came on. It started this afternoon and the car ran just fine. I took it to an Advance Auto and after they plugged in the OBD tool it came back with the code PO 116. Engine Coolant temp CKT Range/Performance.
The fellow decided to clear the code and then the car would not start. I waited for about 15 minutes and the car started with some hesitation and the light was out. When I got home I let the car sit for a few seconds and it started perfectly like nothing ever happened.
Does that mean that the temperature coolant sensor is bad??? I have a Hanes manual and apparently is not too difficult to do. Would I have to partially drain the radiator?
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Coolant temperature gauge bounce up and down.
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I got my car back finally and on the way down the belt way i started sliding around a big turn and I get home to see my temp gauge way up and all the coolant went all over my engine .
I took it to a shop the did pressure test and that was fine, But the also found jell around the thermostat. The other thing they said is that it had air bubbles in it too. They said exhaust bubbles. But when they ran it it didn't heat up any more. They said its the early stages of blown head gasket ..
I took it to the dealer right away and they are telling me they cant find any thing wrong. Both places asked if i put stop leak in there but I never added anything to my car. So I am lost and don't know what to do.
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Got a '98 rodeo 3.2 with 160k. A couple weeks ago when stopping at red lights I noticed the temp gauge creeping up to the hot when stopped. This happened about 4 years ago and I was just low on coolant. I kind of figured that was the problem this time and added coolant. Then I started noticing coolant on the ground dripping from the skid plate a little toward the passenger side. The vehicle is parked on the street in front of my house so the vehicle may lean slightly to the passenger side. This rodeo is only driven during the week and then sits for 2-3 days on the weekend.
Over the last couple weeks I have noticed that it doesn't really leak during the week when it's being driven daily and if it does, it's just a drop or two. Now when it sits for 2-3 days there is a pizza sized leak under the vehicle probably about 18 inches wide. Since the overflow wouldn't hold coolant, I figured that it was cracked or had a leak. I removed the reservoir and didn't find a leak. I seen no evidence of a leak anywhere else, however since it's dripping from the skid plate, I assume that it's leaking on the front side of the engine. What to check. Seems strange that it doesn't really leak when running or hot, only when sitting for a few day.
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I have been battling this for some time. The check engine light comes after a period of time from reset. I have changed the thermostat, temp sensor, coolant flush and added per MFG.
I am down to clutch fan. The temp gauge sits right at 210.
From what I can tell is the check engine light comes on because the engine reaches operating temp to SLOWLY. Im guessing because the clutch fan is spinning to early in the game.
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I have a 2002 supercrew 5.4 triton. My coolant temp gauge is acting up. When it starts up its obviously in the cold range but when the truck begins to get up to temp, the gauge only goes up 1/4 full. What it can be?
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So it is no secret that our fans go out and need to be replaced.
There are suppose to be two temperature thresholds, the first at which the fans turn on at LOW speed, then another higher threshold where the fans turn to HIGH speed.
My fans basically only kick in at the higher temp threshold and into HIGH, the cooling system is skipping over the LOW threshold and fan speed.
Would this be an issue with the fans or the controller?
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My radiator gave way on the highway, and by the time I noticed it the temp had maxed out the gauge and all the coolent was gone. So, I only have 90k on my '94 Camry and I'm debating whether to tackle repairs and perhaps a rebuild if necessary. What's the likelihood that there's damage to the rings, bore, crank, valves, etc due to the overheat? How much repair am I potentially looking at and what can I check without a tear-down? I'd like to get it running again since I just invested in new struts, brake calipers and MS and tires (not to mention that it has been pretty-much worry-free until now), but I want to know whether it's even worth my while.
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We have a 2005 Chevy Tahoe. Been running great. Has 140,000 miles on it 80% open road. Couple of weeks ago was highway driving and noticed the coolant temp gauge went all the way down to nothing, and then back up to normal (middle of the dial) This happened 5-6 times and each time as the temp rose back to normal, the transmission would lurch.
I took it to a mechanic who could not figure out what was wrong, but acknowledged it was running terribly. He said that was what he would try before going to a dealer. I agreed and the car instantly seemed to be running perfectly. Now a couple of weeks later, the coolant temp gauge is dropping again. It is not going all the way to nothing, and the transmission is not lurching. It goes down from half to a quarter and then back again. So something still seems to be wrong. Otherwise all seems to be well.
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Have a 2000 subaru outback 2.5l, automatic, with about 245k, I replaced the thermostat,water pump, the radiator and the car is still overheating. both fans are working. no leaking coolant. Maybe this is related- over heats mostly when driving on the highway. But if a shift the gear to neutral and coast for a minute the shift back to drive the temperature gauge goes down. Whats wrong, running out money fixing the car, but love it driving it in the snow.
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So a couple weeks back I'm on expressway home and I look down and and temp gauge is pegged out overheating I immediately pulled off and shut it down and towed to a buddy of mine's shop he flushed it filled it up w antifreeze and checked for leaks and couldn't find one. I drove it for about a week and got out to for a quick stop , Ex parked on a slight decline and came out to prolly half gallon of coolant on the ground..I limped it to my buddies shop as it was not running hot .. he has checked it out but can't find any leaks, even after having it run 30 or so minutes..
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My 04 .:R temp is going up when I sit at idle for a few minutes. The low and high speed fan are working, I just check to make sure that they were. The temp goes up then the high speed fans kick on. A few minutes the fan kick off then the temp drops. The stat isn't more then a year old.
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