Golf IV R32 :: Cold Start - Regular Idle?
Jan 28, 2010
just got my R32 a year and 3 months ago and love it. I came across my first issue though a couple months ago, when i start my car on cold starts before it would of course go to the cold start mode at over 1,000 rpm's before going back down after 30 seconds and depending on the weather i'd let it warm up anywhere from 5-15 minutes.
Well a couple months ago my car wouldn't do its normal cold start routine, i'd turn it and it made its loud pitch as if it was going to do the cold start and it just immediately went down to regular idle skipping the warm up, it did this for a week before i got it checked out. I went to a shop by me and he said that it might be a thermostat sensor so i replaced it and nothing. So he then pulled my throttle body off cleaned it did the whole calibration thing or whatever its called that you have to do when unplugging them and it went back to normal!!! Well after a month (two weeks ago) its doing it again. Then he told me it might be that the throttle body has some condensation frozen and isn't allowing the throttle to open like it needs too.
I live in a suburb 20 minutes north of chicago and i don't drive the car if it snows, i keep it in my garage. I have a CAI installed on the car that i put on back in March of 09 and a flapper that i just permanently opened with an IV clamp. So i don't have any big modification on the car...yet
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I recently got my Mk7 1.8T manual brand new and have been wondering about the long cold start idle. It usually takes around a minute or two before the revs drop below 1000. Coming from a '04 Mercedes and '11 TDI Jetta, I can say those cars the idles dropped much faster. Is this normal with the golf?
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So I got a check engine light... did a scan and it said something about, "Cold Start Idle-Control System" and then it also has misfires on all of the cylinders and that it is running too lean.
I automatically went to check the intake, took it apart and the rubber coupler that connects the MAF sensor to the stage 2 pipe has a rip in it.
Now I'm freaking out thinking that maybe water... dust... dirt... has gotten into the engine.
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I picked up my latest R back in April - 3 owner, 33K mile car - as far as I know no tune. The previous owner owned the car for the previous 9 years and kept it stock.
The issue: If the car sits for more than one day (I work form home so this happens a lot) upon initial start up it will start and idle at 800 RPM and then drop a little from there once warmed up. Now if the car sits for less than a day, it will cold start as it should - high idle then a gradual drop.
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I've had my 2010 GTI for 8 months now and have really only had one issue with it. When I start the car, it shakes before I start moving. Like, the steering wheel, body, pedals, gearshift, etc... It's not a violent shake, but definitely something I've never noticed in any other car I've owned including my MkV GTI. It doesn't seem like a normal feeling for a brand new car. I took it back to my original dealer at 4,000 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with it and they didn't feel any vibrations.
Well lately it's been vibrating more intensely and more often (at almost 8,000 miles) It now does the same thing while stopped in traffic or at lights. It's really annoying to me. I took it a couple days ago to a new dealer (I moved) and just talked to them on the phone. They also said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal.
I forget exactly what they said it was because I was walking to the gym, but basically it was some cooling pump/fan that kicks on to cool the engine down and that's what is causing the vibration. But, they said it's normal and all VWs do it. I'm not quite sure why a fan needs to cool a perfectly cold engine in the morning though.
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Picked up a GTI Autobahn yesterday. Was pretty hyped that my sales rep was able to get me the last car in my configuration in all of California. It had to be driven 150 miles to my dealer though so there were more miles on the odometer than I would have liked but I got such a good deal that I let it be. Drove home and all was fine. Went out later that night and while driving home it all started.
Car was just cruising at regular freeway speeds (65 - 70) and suddenly all the gauges go out and error lights galore. Strange part is the car is still working otherwise at this point. We were able to exit and park it safely. Here's a video of exactly what we were seeing: [URL] ....
After parking and shutting off the car we try to start it back up. It turns over fine but a second later it kills itself - much like it would if you shut the car off manually. Warning lights galore again and eventually an error about the braking system shows on the display. Here's a video on this part: [URL] ....
Gas tank is full. Car was not being driven hard whatsoever. And even if it was it shouldn't do this right?
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I have an 07 F150 with the 4.6L engine and i was wondering if theres any need to clean my injectors at 30,000km the truck seems to vibrate at idle but not very noticeable seems like a regular v8 rumble but two ppl have pointed it out recently and have riden in my truck a bunch, should i be puttin some injector cleaner in my fuel?
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Check out how loud my cold start idle is. Still can't figure out why you can't hear the turbo on start up though. Even revving at idle you can't hear it that much. I've seen plenty of gti's with more exhaust restriction then i have and you can hear it clearly. [URL] .....
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I have a 99 silverado with the 4.8 w/186k on the clock. I am having an issue with rough idle and hesitation on cold start up. Once the truck warms up the idle and hesitation go away. I have replaced the PCV valve hoping this fixed it, but it did not. I have also cleaned the TB and the MAF.
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I have a 99 lesabre cold start rough idle but smooths out . Warm no start. Trouble codes P0171, P0300, P0336. Had plennum replaced 2 years ago but I'm seeing coolant around the base of the plennum so I'm going to have to do that again but I don't think that has anything to do with the warm no start.
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Unless you manually hold throttle when cold jeep will stall. Once engine is warm all is fine. So what controls the high idle?
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My 2007 TrailBlazer with 84K stumbles for 25 seconds when I start up cold. After 25 seconds I hear a click and then it runs perfect. No engine codes present. Have new plugs, new O2 sensor, new thermostat.
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I got the fuel pump and fuel pump control module replaced. Now I am still getting a cold start delay (5-10 seconds to start) and it has a rough idle sounding like its misfiring. This happened when i picked it up at the dealership after a new fuel pump BUT! keep in mind it has been doing this for a while so i figured it was the fuel pump.
New oem plugs and the coils were replaced when i bought the car because the coils failed during a test drive I need to scan the codes but i will post. Also this only happens during a cold start. if the car is warm and i go into target or something then start it shortly after its fine.
TSB'S I think will fix this. [URL] .....
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I have a 2010 Elantra and noticed after I start it when it's cold the rpm is about 1800rpm but doesn't drop. I never really payed attention on this car but my other cars would drop after a minute or so. Is this normal on the elantra or is something wrong?
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I took care of a vacuum leak on this car but I still have an Idle issue on a cold start it doesn't wont to idle at all once I get it warmed up it idle's in park and Neutral fine as soon as I put into drive it want's to die I can keep it going by letting of the gas and then pushing the gas peddle again and take of quickly. Stopping at red lights I have to hurry and put it into neutral or it will die having the ac on makes it worse.
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I ran out of CNG - truck won't start on reg fuel. Fuse good, relay clicking and I believe I have voltage going to plug connector going to tank. However, I do not have any wiring diagram to know what I'm looking for. The plug is four wire - yellow- 11 volts, red / black stripe 7 volts, black / red stripe and black wire no volts. What checks can I make before dropping the fuel tank and pulling fuel pump? 2003 F150 7700 Bi-fuel ....
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Today is the first day I noticed this problem !! driving regular hit traffic I notice my fans come on so I look down at my cluster and my temp gauge is a quarter pass 190 ?? Happen 3 times with in 10 minutes of each other no air condition or heat fans on ??? Get to my destination stay there for 2 hours then drive home but no temp issues ??? 74000 miles I hit today on the car completely stock ?? Thermostat , housing ??
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2000 Sierra 1500, 5.3L engine. When he starts it in the cold (below 40 degrees) at first hits 1000rpm, then immediately drops to 400-500rpm. The idle is rough and wants to die if he tries to drive it. However after 10-15 minutes and the eng warms up, its fine no problems at all. There is no codes, so the scanner we had didn't tell us anything. He had cleaned the TB and intake system with cleaner, no dice. He also disconnected the IAC while it was idling rough, that didn't change the way it ran at all. We would like to toubleshoot it more before we start throwing parts at it.
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder. The problem we are having is the car has a slight rough idle only at cold start. After she warms up she is smooth as glass. What would cause this?
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I have a 2003 Camry 4cylinder. On first start of the day the engine shakes a little untill it warms up and is driven for about 2 blocks. After that it is smooth. I cleaned what I could of the throttle body on the car, changed spark plugs and PCV. All that worked but cold start shake still there.
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89 4Runner, V6 having trouble on the start up. Seems worse on the cold start after the engine has been left idle overnight or after my shift at work. I just re-cleaned my connection to my positive post and it's nice and tidy lots of spark on the meter guage but when I go to turn it over just a click. Both the box inside the cab by the front quarter and outside I can hear clicking but just a single click no solenoid for the starter tapping away. Every once in a while it will start to pick up but it seems it's got no power and then nothing back to the single click. It's even hard to jump start at this point.
Could this be the start of my starter going? The bushings going? After I get it going and drive around to where I have to and try a restart it seems to pick up just fine.
I am due to have my timing belt and cam seals done soon could this have any effect? I just had my distributer cap and rotor done and new plugs.
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