19711 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1; Heating Circuit: Regulation at Upper Limit
P3255 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
Code only comes when car is cold ,when erase it doesn't come back until i shut it off and let it cool than after a restart it come s back .
I just got this car it a 2002 jetta glx vr6 12v 5 spleed. It has a miss new plugs wires gas and used coil pack. It misses especially when cold check engine light on says cam sensor changed it and still same thing if I clear the code it comes right back.
View 1 RepliesI am having a problem with my MKIV, @ 182k. I think problem first arose a couple months ago when reverse began not engaging on cold starts, so I would have to sit there 5-10 minutes waiting for car to 'warm up' enough for reverse to engage. This led me to taking it to a local tranny shop who I asked to change fluid only, which they did. Problem persisted however, but forward driving was noticeably much smoother. If that matters. I gave up on it, since I knew it was only reverse messing up, and started parking in reverse overnight etc.
Simultaneously I had a code for P0420/P0411 (the SAI incorrect flow crap which causes catalyst inefficiency) so I went ahead and swapped out the cracked SAI plastic hose leading to stock airbox, after doing so I reset the CEL and ran the car. And it ran like crap, I think it was in limp mode (i had never experienced this in my Jetta) from what Ive read, but not sure. So, I pulled to the side, and restarted car, let it sit, same problem. Finally, after 3-4 cycles it threw a CEL, which ironically FIXED the problem. It ran fine from then on. Made it home, hooked up scanner and CEL code was P0732, which I read elsewhere is a 'Gear 2 - Incorrect Ratio' meaning 2nd gear is messed up somehow.
So, overnight I reset CEL and today in the morning I let it idle for 10 minutes before taking off, immediately same issue, where car will not accelerate/ change gears it seems. Went back straight home, waited for CEL to display, and VOILA, runs fine again. Same code P0732. Running fine as of writing this. Problem only arose after taking a swing at SAI code and reset of CEL's. Once CEL lights up its fine.
Keeps coming on when car is cold.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Pri with 194,000 miles on it that has been dead reliable & owes me nothing really, now developing a serious problem. Only when it is below about 10 deg F I will get total failure of the power braking system on or shortly after startup Has happened on 3 days this winter. ABS light, Brake warning, continuous high pitched beep (very annoying warning the driver of immanent death!
When this happens I get almost no movement on the brake pedal. It's rock hard & acts pretty much like loosing power brakes on any car (ie. you will eventually stop, but not a safe condition). There is no transition to this condition. It's either "everything normal" or total failure. Brake fluid reads half way between min & max and looks clean, no sign of moisture, but has never been flushed.
The last time it happened I was leaving work, couldn't swap cars... so I drove straight to the dealer (white knuckled). Dealer calls the next day saying it's the Brake Actuator needing replacement. I told them I wasn't spending that & to look again for a cheaper problem like Fluid, 12v battery, Relay...
No dice. They confirm it's the actuator.
The code they read is C1256. They "checked resistance at actuator pins & found high resistance at pins 1&2." I'm thinking about just topping up the fluid a bit more, or getting the fluid flushed & changed, or changing the 12v battery (I need to check voltage on next cold morning), or just not driving it at those temps & hoping it doesn't get worse.
2000 Intrigue 144,000 miles.
When you first start it up, the vehicle won't move in any gear. After a while of idling, it may start to drive, but the engine RPMs are way too high for the corresponding speed that you're driving. 4000 RPMs to hold 45 MPH.
Could this be the input piston? I've heard those wear and then don't seal well, bleeding off fluid pressure. Torque converter?
Also, the one diagnostic code is P0742 - TCC stuck on. I realize that this could be unrelated to the vehicle not moving when cold.
2001 V6 Passat with 125k miles throwing a P0430 code.
Having trouble on cold starts, takes about 10 minutes to finally get it to turn over. When it does the idle is extremely rough. For the first 1/4 mile the car bucks, stutters, and misfires. After that it runs fine and starts fine when already warm. I am noticing slightly decreased gas mileage but nothing major.
Valve cover gaskets were replaced 2 months ago, but were leaking oil for at least a year before I could afford to have them replaced. I am still noticing some oil leakage, however not as much as before. I have had both O2 sensors replaced twice in the past 5 years. Timing belt was replaced at 98k. What might be causing the starting issues?
Can a leaking Y Pipe throw a P0299? Dealership says that is my problem. My MAP at idle is 14.4 EBP is 17 - 18. At 60mph MAP is 20 EBP is 26-28. Boost is 10-20 .. Truck drives great no apparent issue. P0299 only code and appears when cold first start of day. If I clear it it goes away for the rest of the day and only comes back occasionally. Twice in 5 days only at cold start. 2005 F350, 100% stock, Ford filters all. Scan guage 2 for readings....
View 10 RepliesOK, long story short. I had P2284 code on my scan gauge after replacing the oil cooler. I contributed it to air in the oil system. Sure enough, a few days of hard driving and the code went away.
Now a week later, I fired up my truck on a cold start yesterday morning. It's not that cold here(low 40's in the morning), but the oil started off at about 50F. Correspondingly, ICP at is higher, at around 1000(it's like this every morning until oil warms up). I usually let it warm up a tad before driving but yesterday I didn't, and hit the gas pedal a little hard once and the truck started acting like it does when you get this code.
Sure enough, check scan gauge and the code is there. I drive home(about 15 minutes). A half hour later I start the truck up, check codes, and it's back to normal. Of course, oil temps were higher and ICP in the normal range between 580-590.
So is this normal? Since it doesn't trigger a CEL I assume it's more of a system parameters code? Only other thing I can think of, if this isn't normal, is a mucked up IPR screen from when I installed my BPD oil cooler.
2003, not deleted, everything was stock except for he put a Bully Dog on it with can tunes. Died on him was replaced ICP started up ran horrible was throwing different injector codes, IPR was at 84% at idle, plus had a lot of pressure on degas bottle.
Just finished studding, deleting, oil cooler, ICP, and injectors. She started up fairly easy, only to have the IPR still at 84%, ICP bouncing between 670s to 790s this just after start up from the work. Truck still runs horrible and still throwing #5 injector code also using AE and injector 5 wont Buzz. So, would be safe to say Injector harness and IPR sensor?
I have a 2000 Ranger 2.5l, 4 cyl. Not long after the truck was purchased, there was a recall for the EGR valve, we took it in had that replaced, no issues. Well 2 years ago we had the P0401 code pop up, we replaced the DPFE and it seemed to fix things. Well a couple of weeks ago the code popped up again, we erased it and it came back a week or 2 later, along with the truck shuddering when the engine is cold. My husband said once the engine warms up the shuddering goes away. To make it more complicated it doesn't always shudder like that, seems to be intermittent. What could cause this problem? Does it sound like the DPFE again? Or something else we are missing?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 Passat 1.8T. When I start it up in the morning I hear a loud obnoxious noise like a vacuum leak from the engine compartment. It lasts for about 1.5 minutes then runs normally. After about a minute it starts up again and only last for about 7 seconds...ish. When I drive it afterwards, less that a half block or so, the CEL light goes on after 1 beep. Also, at that time I get a messages from the instrument panel that says "Emissions Workshop 1". I've read that it could be a simple damaged vacuum hose to the secondary air pump. Definitely a huge price difference to repair.
This morning is was colder outside than usual and the dash kept beeping and flashing the "Emissions Workshop 1" code intermittently.
Here is my situation. A month or so ago when it got cold out consistently I got a rough idle after start up.. CEL. Code read P0355, cylinder 5 misfire. Removed plug to check it. All was good, I put everything back together (anti seize, dielectric greased) So I replaced coil. It went away. This week got very cold and Code P0355 and flashing CEL. Drove for a mile or so and it went away. So I'm thinking vacuum leak, Intake gasket, egr valve or warped intake manifold?
View 11 Replies2012 F250 Superduty Lariat, 6.7 L.... While driving the cold air filter came loose and threw a CEL, code 2074. Corrected that issue, but CEL came back. Codes of 2074 and 2074pd. Cleaned both MAP and MAF and codes came back. Replaced both MAP and MAF and codes came back after about 20 miles. What are the next steps?
View 1 RepliesSince it has gotten cool outside my truck is back to not having any power or acceleration when cold. About 10 miles and it is fine. Also I got a code 2286 injection pressure high. Are these related? I cleared the code and it has not returned. The truck is completely stock.
View 7 Replies05 6.0 72,XXX miles. Will not start when cold (below 40ish) outside and engine is cold. Throws a P1378 code and no others (per the BullyDog Gauge Tuner that came with the truck). Checked the FICM with the voltmeter test on a morning it wouldn't start. Never dropped below 48 volts through the whole test. I can clear the code, try and start the truck and it comes back as soon as I try to crank it again. Warm days=no problems at all.
Oh yeah...I did go through the harness from the FICM to the injectors a while back and found a couple spots that were rubbing on various bolts. Peeled the insulation back and taped up the bad spots to keep from grounding something out so I don't think it's a harness issue. Also found a ground wire off on the back side of the FICM and reconnected that on the nearest valve cover bolt.
I have a 2005 Sport trac, just recently, I started my truck and my check engine light was on and my trip counter and odometer went blank, not off, just dashes going across the panel. I recall noticing that my rpms were a little high. I turned off the truck and restarted and after a few minutes it came back to normal. Check engine light went off and my miles were displayed again.
A few days later, it happened again, except this time the rpms were normal, just the dashes and check engine light. I happened to have an obd II with me and I immediately scanned it for any codes. NONE. Few minutes later, back to normal. Scanned again, NOTHING. Its been happening more frequently now, every time i turn on the truck when its been sitting for a while. Like I said, it takes about 3 minutes or so and it goes away. Nothing unusual happens during this time. Motor sounds fine and runs smooth.
A friend who is a mechanic told me that it could be a ground cable for the COIL? that could be loose or damaged? He said its more than likely a ground because it happens when its cold and takes time to warm up and goes away. That if it was a hot it would happen all the time. I have searched online for something similar and have found similar problems but no exact match. I just changed the motor about a week ago. I had problems with the timing chain and broken oil pump.
Due to the amount of damage, cost and time to repair and amount of miles on the truck (180K) I decided id be better off putting in a new(used) motor with 67K miles in half the time for labor. I dont think this makes a difference though, because the first incident happened about a week before the truck broke down and the second about two days before. So Im guessing that the change of motor has nothing to do with it.
I keep getting my SES light coming on in the morning when my engine is cold. I'm getting code p0603 and p1316. I was told the first one is just from using my tuner. The second code is the injector driver module, just trying to figure out what is causing it to throw the SES light only when cold.
View 6 RepliesThis morning when attempting a cold start of my 05 6.0, it would not start was noticeably harder cranking. I had no CEL. I checked my scan Guage and the volts were 13.4 and fcm main power was 48.4. I checked and I had a p0405 code. What could be going on? I read that it can be a stuck or bad EGR valve? Could it be battery related?
View 9 RepliesI have had some slight rough running with a cold engine and stumble <2000rpm. Finally it tripped a CEL which was read as a misfire code.
The mechanic swapped the coil and plug(recent) and no change. He did a compression test and air blew out the exhaust. So.......the car needs a valve job which entails motor removal and fixing the head and reinstall. He rough estimates this at $2000 and rate is $65/hr.
He mentioned looking at pistons and may be a bit more if rough.
This car well maintained (170,000 miles 2005 Legacy turbo wagon with manual)...
My '05 Excursion recently started having rough idle and some loping when started cold. It seems to run good and idles pretty good when it warms up. I'm also getting a P0488 code (EGR Throttle Control Circuit A Range/Performance). I do have a BPD EGR and I don't recall if that would throw a code alone? I'm taking a trip next week and want to get it straightened out. Does it sound like an EGR valve issue?
I also thought about a battery issue, I know that can cause weird problems. I have Duralast batteries and they always seem to fail at about 2-3 years. I took it in and they say it tested good but I'm not always sure with them. Long story, but when cranking for longer than normal, the cranking power would drop quite a bit. Checked battery and had some corrosion. Cleaned and upon further inspection, the positive post is a bit eroded at the base and sunken in. The voltage was about 12.35 after sitting all night, a couple of the cells were reading lower than the others (about 50%, other 75%) when checked specific gravity. I tested voltage after batteries had been in the truck overnight, then unhooked from truck when testing.
I also thought about a glow plug/harness issue. The truck cranks for awhile before starting, 5-6 seconds sometimes, but not all the time. It starts up pretty quickly when warm. That's been going on for some time. Anyway, I will try to get a video of the rough start after cools down.