Golf IV R32 :: Clutch Slips Nearing The End Of Third And Around 4200 RPMs In 4th At WOT
Dec 17, 2013
So I just received my car back from my shop before this past weekend, and the drive has been quite a blast.
Currently running 7psi on a non-intercooled set-up (GT35R) using Unitronic Software, on a stock clutch. (No worries, intercooling is indefinitely in it's future. Just torn between AA and AWIC. Plus saving for that clutch.)
Unfortunately, the clutch slips nearing the end of third, and around ~4200 rpms in 4th at WOT. But then today, I thought: What if I pull the haldex fuse?
As a result, the car hauls and pulls through all gears and holds 7psi all through redline.
So, Will running without the haldex have adverse *hidden* effects towards the clutch? My theory is that taking the responsibility of the haldex off the clutch is allowing it to hold and not slip.
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I'm getting strange vibration when I hit around 4200rpm in ever gear. Car smooths out at around 5000 rpm. Vibration feels like it's coming from the transmission but it could also be coming from the axels. Original OEM axels were taken off the car by the previous owner. What this problem may be? I don't want to bust open the transmission if I don't need to.
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I have a Hyundai Accent 2005 Hatchback automatic and I have a rising problem.
The car seems to shake violently when I am nearing or at a complete stop.
The shaking gets so bad that the mirrors start to shake.
The shaking stops immediately when I accelerate or at regular speed.
The car seemingly runs fine, accels OK and brakes are good. However, I can still hear some shaking when I am driving.
The engine light is not on, but obviously I feel like this is something I want to get checked out before the matter gets worse. What it can be?
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2001 VR6 owner. I'm looking at a Jetta currently that I suspect has a trans problem. Current Owner was bounced around shops being told it was a timing chain issue causing it to rev around 50-55 mph. Now I know that is definitely not it.
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I have a 2006 VW Golf TDI that I love b/c I can run it on biodiesel.It has about 125,000 miles and I want to get another 100,000 out of it.The problem is that the automatic transmission slips sometimes when I slow down to about 10 mph or slow and then hit the gas again before stopping.I took it to my usual mechanic who checked the transmission fluid and it was full. He then said that there was nothing else really to do; there was no way to fix this other than replacing the whole transmission due to all the computer and electronic gadgetry.That seems crazy to me that there is nothing between adding fluid and replacing the whole transmission.The mechanic said that this is an issue with VWs from around this year.
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PO730 and P0740 codes at the same time auto transmission slips in 4th gear really bad but not all the time...
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My 2001 1.8T Jetta doesn't want to shift into 4th (slips in and out) when the operating temp gets to normal value. It looks like I will need a full overhaul. Of course the overhaul price is worth more than than car is worth. I may be able to get a tranny from an 03 Jetta with a 2.0 in it. I think it bolt on but are there any other issues? According to this site the ratios are similar -not sure what R&P is.
[URL] ....
I will be getting a tranny shop to do the work. Is this something that is doable?
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Here's my problem I have a 02 ranger 3.0 with some problems and I need to bounce it off some one with knowledge.
1. starting and normal running fine / ok .
2. In drive at 2200 rpm t0 2800 rpm the engine is sluggish and at night the head lights dim about 30%
3. Sometimes the battery light will turn on during this problem.
4. The only code is for a air leak fuel / evap system .
5. Above 4200 -4500 rpm the engine staggers or cuts out.
Parts changed coil: / ECM, Fuel pump and filter, plugs & wires several relays and alternator.
Inspection: Checked most ground and common grounds, looked for damaged, cut worn an burnt wires or worn harness plug / connectors .
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I've checked things out with my OBD2 reader and it's not reporting any codes, no trouble indicator lights, etc., but it's definitely not responding the way it should. I just had it in for a tune-up recently, thinking it was an engine problem, but I don't think that fixed it.
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Last week I took my baby to AWE Tuning, and had a chip and a diverter valve installed, when i left it felt like a different car it was great! now when im driving its not right, ok ill be in gear and as soon as i get on it and hit like 3thousand rpm it feels like the clutch is engaged and the rpms shoot up fast and the car isnt moving like it should. is it my clutch?
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Yesterday I was driving my car on the highway, and stepped on it in, and the rpm's fluttered, felt like something was slipping. What this could be?? Could this be my clutch slipping?
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(1) The RPMs are jumping occasionally at higher gears (not every time). How long do you think I could go before the clutch dies completely? I'm not a "racer", and I just use my car for daily driving.
(2) Do mechanics replace clutches based on symptoms alone, or can they actually visually inspect the clutch and determine that it needs to be replaced?
(3) When replacing a clutch, what parts need to be replaced besides the actual clutch itself? Also, I've read about flywheels needing to be resurfaced, but is that necessary?
(4) What manufacturer makes good clutches? As mentioned, I'm not a hard driver or anything. Just need something that is good quality and affordable.
(5) Is the best way to save money (I'm a graduate student) to buy an aftermarket clutch and have the clutch installed by a local mechanic?
(6) At what mileages do clutches typically need to be replaced? I know it depends on how you drive. Let's say you're a casual driver and simply use your car to get to work, school, etc.
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I have a 1993 protege that was previously not having any issues. I recently had a mobile mechanic replace my axle after it broke. Since then I have had issues with the rpm's increasing but the speed staying the same or decreasing. This happens mostly uphill and especially when the vehicle is cold. Is there another reason this can occur besides a bad clutch?
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I have a 2003 6.0 and I got a scan gauge recently to monitor the fan speed rpm's.
When the engine is running at 2500 rpms the fan speed is only at around 350-400 rpm's.
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Can a bad iat 2 sensor, egr valve or icp sensor cause the fan not to function properly?
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Replaced clutch master cylinder last week. Now when I accelerate it revs the RPM's and finally catches after about 5-10 seconds. Is this related to the previous repair? They are saying needing new clutch. What to do?
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Me and my buddy that has a 2012 GLI where playing with our cars and i noticed that he is at 4,000rpms in second gear @40mph, while my car (2010GTI) was at 4600rpms....Both of us have 6 speed manuals.. What could cause this other than gearing? I don't think the gearing is different since to my knowledge both cars and trannys are the same...or am i wrong?
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