Looks like my clutch is starting to slip a bit at ~50K, after a good bit of HPDE track usage over the last few years, and maybe some poor shifting by me. Anyway, want to replace with a stronger aftermarket unit that can stand up to track events, and am planning to go with a lightweight flywheel as well.
View 4 RepliesSo long story short, my clutch is not disengaging all of the way, but only sometimes.... I have replaced clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, new stainless steel clutch line and new clutch master cylinder all within this month. The same issue has been occurring prior to replacing all of this and also after replacing all of this. I've bled the system (with a power bleeder) more times than you can count on both of your hands so there is no way there is air in the system.
More details : The clutch doesn't slip in any gear. Stop and go traffic in first gear is really the only time I notice it not disengaging. I can't pull it out of 1st gear when it happens so I have to shut the car off to get it out of first gear. When it's stuck in first gear with the clutch pushed in (on a flat surface) and I let off of the brake the car creeps forward. Not at full speed like if I were to release the clutch pedal all the way but its still semi engaged enough to make the car move.
Replacing everything theoretically should have fixed all issues, but it hasn't. The only thing I didnt replace was this piece of the factory clutch line.
Tomorrow I am going to take the stainless steel clutch line and run it straight to the clutch master cylinder bypassing that weird silver box and hope that fixes it. As a side question what does that silver box do anyways?
I have a 2010 gti with stage 2 tune, and mk6 clutch starting to slip? i have 30,000 miles, i am starting to do my research on the clutches. I am also looking in to just replacing the clutch disk, and i am wondering it just the clutch disk will hold up?
View 24 RepliesI have a 2012 GTi. I just got the stage 2 unitronic flash on my car and now my clutch slips bad. I know i will need to replace my clutch. It was starting to slip before the tune and now it just cant handle it. The shop I went to recommended a South Bend Stage 2 Clutch kit (single mass). Its a daily driver and want something that will last and hold up to 325ftlbs of torque. I do think i want to go with the single mass clutch though.
View 13 RepliesToday I parked my golf on the street and it was raining, when I came back to the car after four hours the street had flooded and water was about an inch below the bottom of the door on the driver side, and about an inch (or more) on the passenger side and up to the bottom of the exhaust pipes in the back.
The car started fine, but when I began to drive it the clutch would slip and then bang while engaging. Once I had taken off a few times gently everything smoothed out. Car drives fine and the engine bay was dry when I got home (a 40 minute highway drive). NO water got inside the car at all, so the interior was completely dry, every thing appeared to function perfectly. My question is, assuming just the bottom of the motor, trans, and undercarriage got wet is there anything I should be weary of? Any sensors or electrical things down there? Lights, ac, door locks, everything is working and running fine and dry at this point.
What are the symptoms of the clutch slip.
View 2 RepliesNoticed recently that my clutch is starting to slip. It only seems to happen when I'm cruising in 6th and floor it. When the boost spikes, the revs will shoot up ~750 rpm and then settle back down before the car starts to pull. It is chipped Unitronic Stage 2 with some other bolt-ons.
What I'm wondering is, should I just drive it like this until it really starts to go, or should I replace it now? And what are my options for a new clutch? I don't want to big turbo this car, so the most it could get is a few more bolt-ons. I'd like a stock feeling clutch.
I have an '08 Chevy Cobalt with manual transmission with 55,000 miles on it. The clutch is beginning to slip, and is probably going out. What is the life expectancy of a clutch, I thought this seemed kind of short.
View 6 RepliesI have a 13' GT with an automatic trans and 15,000 miles.
While getting onto the highway yesterday I was in D (not + -) and I was probably in 4th gear and hit the gas pedal maybe 60-70% down and my rpms shot straight to 6-7k but I didn't get any acceleration. I let the rpms drop and it drove fine after. Pretty sure I was smelling burnt clutch too (kind of unfamiliar with that scent, I've never slipped a clutch before).
I should probably take it to the dealer for them to look at it, but am worried it will be a 1-2 week thing and I'm not sure if I'd get a loaner.
I am purchasing a car on eBay which was stated to have the following problem: "the clutch is grabbing very very low it does not slip i think it is just the hydraulics? ". When I asked if I would need to have it serviced in order to drive it 1500 miles back home ( which in my mind meant an oil change), their response was that I would need to have the master cylinder replaced in order to drive it that far...
View 13 RepliesSo I was on the free way in 6th gear and decided to get on it, the rpm's shot up and I barely picked up speed. It's only a slight clutch slip tho only really noticeable in 6th gear so I was wondering what clutch I should go with because I was planning on going BT eventually.
View 3 RepliesAlright so I've had this car for about six months now and the clutch was supposedly replaced by the dealer I got it at. The clutch usually grabs about half way up but sometimes it's higher. I replaced the master cylinder because it blew out, when changing my I take I noticed the slave was starting to leak so I replaced that about three weeks ago. Ever since then, the clutch seems to grab differently and seems to be taking longer to engage.
Now, I did the "slave mod" on the old one AND the new one so it's not that. Do you guys think the new slave is bad? I have high temp dot 3 in there (I try to only use the best fluids for my cars). It just doesn't seem to grab as hard as she used to. Like it takes a bit longer to engage. The clutch (should) only have 15k miles on it. The clutch parts are under warranty but I'd still have to pay for labor since it's a wear part. I'd like to avoid replacing it if it's that new u less it's definitely going.
The truck runs but After staring and during idle there is a heavy relay click and the speedo jumps to 20 or 30 mph. Afterwards on a 30 to 45 sec cycle there is a relay clicking in the area of the PCM relay.
Speedo jumps to 10mph and radio resets. 15 to 20 seconds later there is a light click behind the dash ( no speedo jump or radio reset). Rinse and repeat...
I have tried to locate which relay is setting it is either the PCm or possibly the pcm and the icm. Can't tell. Popped and swapped for s&@$s and giggles but no change.
1999 7.3, 308,000 miles. No mods. Original injectors and no other major repairs.
My trans is starting to slip very slightly. I am going to replace the filter and fluid to see if this works. Its a 2002 gti.
View 5 RepliesI was changing the fuel filter and I got it all done, started the car and heard a pop and the car died. the line that goes from the tank to the filter keeps popping off the filter... i can pull it off with my hands.. the other one is fine but the fuel line to the fuel filter isnt grabbing that barb on the filter. its not the filters problem cause it now does it with my old one too...
View 23 RepliesRecently upgraded to a 2015 DSG PP pearl white 2-door GTI. I'm really enjoying the car. It is my third GTI (MK IV, MK VI) but the first automatic. On the morning commute to work today my DSG straight up stopped working. While trying to accelerate from completely stopped at a stop light my transmission seemed to slip out of gear followed by the engine reving freely... A message appeared to "Press Brake". I had to stop my car in the middle of an intersection and then magically the transmission stuck in gear and i made it to the next stop light. Unfortunately at this light I was never able to get my car back in gear... I tried reverse as well as S mode shifting into 2nd or 3rd.
Had to get towed to the nearest dealership... at least I got to try out the carnet feature . Basically it is a glorified operator who will request a local tow truck for you. FYI.. I thought that the service would at least notify the service dept at the dealer it was being towed to (nope!). 5 hours later they gave me my car back saying that the cable between the ECU and DSG had come loose and that was the only problem.
So far the car seems to be driving like a champ again... I'm just a bit concerned as to how a cable can magically come loose and cause my car to be inoperable. The main reason I upgraded from my 2010 gti was the peace of mind that the car was going to be dependable...
A few questions... Is it feasible that a loose cable was the only issue? If so... how can a cable magically come loose after 2200 miles of driving? I could see this being an issue from the manufacturer but would think it would happen much sooner during the break in process.
Last night it was just below freezing and the roads were a little damp so I figured I'd see at what point ESP would kick in on a hard 2nd gear pull. Sure enough power cuts off at around 4000-4500 rpm.
Turn "off" ESP, try another hard 2nd gear pull expecting some nice tire squeal but I get nothing and obviously still no traction from 4500-6000 rpm. Was my clutch slipping? Is ESP capable of knowing when the clutch is slipping (I would think it had nothing to do with it)? Maybe it was just damp enough that the rubber was spinning in one place but it wasn't making any/limited amount of noise?
Car: GTI, Manual, Stage 1, Winter Tires.
Had my .:R for 2 years now and just noticed other day. When you cruise in 2/3/4/5 gears about 3000 RPM and suddenly press accelerator 1/3 down RPM jump UP for a split second on tachometer. They go up by one segment (which is 200RPM) and then drop back down.
Now, DSG should not do that to my understanding as clutch pack is engaged! There should be no slip. Also, it is not a drive train shunt, as I kept the car in very slight acceleration.
So the trans on my '02 GTI 1.8T has started doing this exciting new thing where it won't shift out of first gear for a few minutes when it's cold. I had attributed this mainly to that pesky valve body everyone talks about and hadn't got around to doing anything yet, when something new happened.
I noticed that if I turn right within a minute of the transmission "starting to work again", it'll slip out of gear again. There's one turn it always happens on, an uphill right-hander down the street from home.
Anyway, is it possible that this transmission has had some fluid loss? I know they're supposed to be "no maintenance" ( lol ) but I've had the engine rebuilt in the last year and maybe the shop borked something while they were down there?
What are the possibilities here?
Yesterday i was cleaning my car and when I took it out from the garage i noticed a spot on the garage floor. Put my finger on it and thought it was oil but when i looked under the car it was red. It was a few drips on the oil pan and a few on the splash shield. I'm sure its coolant because i was missing some too. This morning on my way to school by serpentine belt started the squeal every time I let go of the clutch. Where this leak is from? My guess is that its leaking onto the belt making it squeal and slip. Its a 03 vr6 24v ...
View 1 RepliesWhat would make a clutch switch keep going out? I've replaced it 3 times in the past year and at this point I'm pretty sure it's not bad switches. I currently have a UM NA tune with launch control which obviously doesn't work when the switch goes bad.
View 1 Replies