I have had some weird feelings in my clutch after I launch my R hard, it feels like the clutch is tighter and has a different feel to it than with normal driving. car is stock for the most point and fairly new to me so I am not sure if anything has been replaced clutch wise. What the problem might be?
View 3 RepliesI've just about had it with this car:
- Car always had a "mushy" clutch feel. Not proper pushback against your foot feel.
- brought in several times under warranty, all was fine (documented by several dealers) from Jun- November 2015.
- Clutch then goes out at 52k, slipping in high gears. Dealer noted the pressure plate was blackened/burnt. June 2016
- I replace clutch at dealer, $1700 later. Pressure plate, slave cylinder, clutch disc, resurfaced flywheel. Pedal feel is awesome for about a month. Pedal "mush" comes back 1000 miles later. July 2016
- Take it in under the 12k warranty again, and they replace clutch master cylinder. It's about 60% better, but pedal will lose pressure occasionally and at higher altitudes (over 4000 feet) July 2016
What else haven't I replaced? And would a failed clutch master cylinder cause premature clutch wear if not replaced for months?
I have a Mk VII R manual transmission with only 500 miles on it, but I'm having an issue that I think some of you may have experienced. My clutch is perfectly smooth when idling or in neutral, but there is a slight "gritty" feel or like rubbing against sandpaper when I lift up the clutch, mostly in 1st or 2nd gear and just when I give it throttle and the car starts moving or when the clutch engages. I thought maybe I was crazy but I did a search and found multiple people with this same issue on the MK VI R's.
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And this one: [URL] ....
I've got 500 miles now, so I'm going to wait until 1000 to bring it to the dealer.
My wife and I purchased our 2005 Chrysler 300 Limited in May 2004.Our 300 has over 117,00 miles as of May 2011. It has been a rather dependable automobile.I have enjoyed it almost as much as my HD. We have performed maintenance as close to the schedule as possible.
I failed to drive the car as often as our second car is an used 2002 S430 which had been my primary auto until about two months. My niece and nephew reported to my wife that the car was not "doing something right". No one could really explain, so I had drove the vehicle myself to determine the issue. The transmission had the feel that it was being "slammed" into the next gear without any clutch. Once the car was warmed up, it appeared that when it shifted at 38-40 mph or 48-50 mph, the car shudders. It almost resembles the feeling you get when you run a car across those strips in the road.
I took the car to the dealership where I have had it serviced locally. They replaced a module which had Technical Service Bulletin from Chrysler for noted similar problems. The first module replaced did not resolve the problem. I took it back and they tried again with the end result being same as before I took the 300 into the shop, transmission appeared to shudder when shifting at the midrange gears.
The dealership as another option recommended that the transmission be replaced. I was not confident with their assessment as I had the distinct feeling they were not clear on the real issue.
I took the car to another service shop which I had more confidence in their work. I asked that they check the car for the problem with the transmission as I wanted their assessment. At this point, I had pretty much decided that I would get rid of the car, but did not want to give anybody else the troubled vehicle nor did I want to have to rush to decide on an automobile to purchase.
The second shop recommended the transmission be replaced, as well several other items be checked as there appeared to be oil leaks. The CAM plugs had been replaced as part of the service the dealer performed though the engine area had not been cleaned of the previous oil. That news was alarming, as the price estimate for a replacement engine was around 6500-7000 smackeroos, way outside of my comfort for repair on the car.
I was able to locate a used transmission with only 86k on it through a very gratuitous turn of fate. I digress, however, as the source for the used transmission was available only to licensed shops.
Two shops had referenced a transmission repair shop as one of the best in our small county. I left the car with the transmission shop for their testing, and it came back with their recommendation that the problem existed in either the coil or spark or an area related there.
I again took the car to the second shop and asked that they check the engine thoroughly for any issues with the spark plugs, wires or similarly related issues. The shop reported that the motor compression was at 190 across all six cylinder and the spark plugs and wires were new and there were no issues with the coils.
I am most happy that the engine is in excellent condition. I have planned to take the car back to the tranny shop as I reported the findings to him of the other shop. I am concerned about the transmission, though I am driving it about 60 miles round trip to work about 2-3 days each week. It still convulses at the mid-range shifting but otherwise runs pretty good after that. The car body is in very good shape as is the interior.
I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cyl w/ hydraulic clutch, about 95k miles, and an intermittent problem. Normally, my clutch works fine, but a few times a year, normally during the summer, and normally only after driving for a half hour or more, it starts to act up. First, the pedal starts to feel a little spongy. Then, I'll depress the clutch, and when I release it, the peddle comes up, but the clutch does not engage; a few seconds later, the clutch engages fully instantaneously, which usually stalls the engine if I am stopped.
Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
I've got an oddball '88 SWB with the M5OD transmission. Since I've had it (about a year now), its always required a lot of gas to get it rolling without it stalling after sitting overnight or during the day at work, especially putting it in reverse for the first time. The shifts have always been a little choppy/jerky/grabby/whatever you want to call it, too. Mostly going into first from a stop, but you can feel it other gears too, especially if you're not flooring it.
Anyway, it seems to have gotten worse and I'm getting to the point where I'm looking at a cause. One thought I had was oil contamination on the clutch discs, I know this will make a clutch feel "grabby". There is some sludge accumulation between the trans and engine, and it appears I may have a very slow leak there.
I have to change the trans fluid this weekend and am wondering if there's anything I should inspect while I'm at it -- I don't know a whole lot about the clutch system on this van and there's next to no information on it. Frankly, I don't even know if its hydraulic or cable.
I recently changed the clutch in my 1967 F 250, all was golden. This was about 5 months ago , just the other day when going from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a clang and popping feel. the truck was making similar noises before the clutch blew out causing me to change it last time.
View 1 RepliesNeed to adjust doors for a tighter fit? When going over bumps, I'm hearing fabric-rubbing-noise from the driver door and passenger rear door.
View 2 RepliesI don't do much city driving with my rig. And when I do, I head straight to the back of any parking lots I encounter. But I decided to take the ol' girl to a big empty church lot today to get a feel for its turning radius.
I found that it makes a tighter left turn vs. a right turn. And the difference is 6-8 feet. I repeated this many times. Steering wheel was fully locked in both directions.
Is this normal? Others experienced this? It drives straight and true and the alignment was given a clean bill of health not too long ago. Weird.
The last few times I drove my car, I noticed the A/C didn't feel very cold. I checked today, and noticed that neither cooling fan comes on with the A/C on. My understanding is that both fans should be in LOW mode with the A/C on. Also, after idling for a while and even after doing some spirited driving and pulling over, the fans never turned on.
View 15 RepliesSo after my first track day i bleed my brakes and they felt great for about 3 days, but then the pedal feel started to deteriorate back to its old crappy feel where nothing happens until its depressed to the same depth as the gas pedal...
In other words, I have about a solid 1.5 inches of travel with nothing happening.
Fixes? Bleeding procedure? I heard we have to prime our abs pumps? yes no?
I am going to be looking into this a little bit tomorrow with an oil change and noisy hub bearing.
Car : 2002 Jetta GLS 1.8t stock 5spd ~165k miles
Symptoms : Light acceleration (day to day), After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms come down to 2-2500 range, while accelerating it feels like a hesitation for a couple seconds then continues to go without issue.
Moderate acceleration (casual hwy on ramp, stoplight fun), After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms come down to the 25-2800 range, while accelerating it feels like a hesitation for a couple seconds then continues to go without issue.
Hard acceleration (short hwy on ramp), After shifting into 2nd gear, the rpms come down to the 28-3100 range. I do not feel any symptoms noted above.
The hesitation felt is enough to cause the car to feel like it had a short loss of power. This does give a jerky feel.
My thoughts : I know there were issues with the coils in this model/year. I have verified through the deal that the vin had received the replacements but unsure if they are the actual replacements. My dad thinks it may be turbo related (which is also stock and never pulled apart to my knowledge).
I found that this KO3s turbo should be fully spooled about 2200rpms. It seems to coincide with my lower rpm accel that maybe I am loosing some of the spool and feeling that?
Other Info : Am I way off or is there anything I can check for easily? I am not very knowledgeable in turbos beyond their basic functions. This is also my first turbo car. I have owned the car 2yrs now. It seemed to have always been there but I don't recall noticing it on the initial test drive. The trans has been replaced since noticing this for other reasons but did not correct this.
I've had my R32 for a week now and I'm starting to develop some questions. This is one that I haven't been able to find an answer to by searching, so here it goes. When the ABS is active (coming to a hard stop on snow and ice, for example), I get a really strange almost "crunchy" feel through the brake pedal. ABS I've experienced on other cars hasn't been this harsh so I'm not sure if it's normal on these.
View 4 RepliesCarefully modulating the brake in this car to offset any jerkiness caused by the DSG riding the gears down eventually became second nature to me and I am pretty good at keeping things nice and smooth. As of late however, my brakes are all over the place and it's driving me insane. If the person ahead of me stops short pulling up to a light and I need to follow suit, my brakes will often BITE hard resulting in a not so subtle jolt. Other times I don't get nearly as much stopping power as I think I should given how much force I'm putting on the pedal and I really have to bury it at the last minute. Not sure if these are a factor of the DSG downshifting at just the wrong moment or what, but it's gotten a bit unnerving.
View 3 RepliesI noticed a month ago that my transmission didn't feel as smooth whenever I shifted. It would come and go, it'd feel smooth and then out of nowhere it wouldn't be smooth again. It feels similar to when you sit inside a car when it's off and you move the shifter from gear to gear (a nonsmooth feeling). So this Monday I decided to empty out a bit of transmission fluid and add some transmission additive. I drove around and it did feel much smoother. However, it does not feel as smooth as it has always felt. The car runs perfect, it just comes down to my personal preference in smoothness.
Mk4 GTI 1.8t 2003
So this morning I was driving to work - normal driving no hard accelerations. As I stopped at a trafic light the car felt going into a limp mode? - engine started to misfire - no smoke from exhaust - but felt is was going to stall. Also the idle started fluctuate from low 600 to high 1100. At low RPMs the engine felt stalling but when I drove around 3000 RPM in 4, 5th gear felt fine.
I was able to plug in the APR dongle and got 7 fault codes: 1)DTC Not Found, 2) Idle Air Control System RPM HIgher than Expected; 3) Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected and 4,5,6 and 7) Cylinder 1,3,4,2 Misfire Detected.
I am APR 1+ with VWR CAI, 20K on 93 oct.
Coil? Injector? Manifold? HPFP?
The car is a 2002 VW Jetta, automatic 1.8t GLS. 146k miles on it. Has an external amp/sub wired up by my brother who is an MECP certified tech and has been doing car audio and overall Audi/VW for years.
I was driving, nothing out of the usual, this car is my daily. Stopped because of traffic and my car died in the middle of traffic, the gauges (tach, speedo, gas, etc) spiked immediately, which I assumed meant loss of electricity, but my radio, headlights and everything else stayed on. The oil and Battery lights came on as well. Tried to start it, it was trying to start, and was cranking quickly, but wouldn't turn over. I got it out of traffic. I pulled my amp power and the car turned over and started driving like normal, so i figured there had been a short in the wire and that was what caused my issue. Drove about a half mile down the road, car shut off again, car said it needed oil this time. checked the oil, there was plenty, but i put more in to be safe, and it turned right over and i managed to drive it about 30 minutes and got it back to my house.
So, my brother and i look the car over, couldn't find anything really wrong with it, so we took it out for a drive, no problem at all for the first few minutes of driving. Car shuts off again, doing the same thing, but just the battery light came on. My brother jumped my car, it turned over, but as i started to drive it, it was a lot more rough with shifting (possibly tied to electrical problems because i know there is a solenoid cluster for automatic transmissions), i mean you could actually hear the gears shifting and the car was kicking through each gear, as well as my driver side headlight not turning on (just installed brand new xantec 6k 55w HIDs, but i dont think those are the problem because the problem started before i installed the HIDs) and died 3 more times before i got it home, having to jump the car every single time with symptoms the same as the first time it died without the oil light. Another thing i noticed is that the car seemed to only die when i hit the brakes and the car went to low RPMs, which lead me to believe a major vacuum leak. At idle the car also seemed like it was misfiring even though the CEL was not flashing, it just had the jerking feeling and sound of misfiring.
My brother and i take a better look into the bay area, and noticed that the top of my engine was covered in oil, from the intake manifold back. I know my car has been leaking oil, but not spraying it. We pulled everything apart, totally cleaned the engine bay area out including MAF, spark plugs, coil packs etc. The engine bay area looked practically brand new. Now i do know that my car has had a vacuum leak (no boost gauge to tell how bad, but the brakes were a little bit less responsive and the car was acting as though it was misfiring despite the fact that the coil packs and spark plugs are brand new) and we couldn't find where it was, and we thought that maybe that was the problem. A lot of the vacuum line was dry rotted and falling apart and some parts weren't even connected anymore from that, which we replaced all of the line we could find to eliminate the idea of a vacuum leak causing the car to die when i hit the brakes. We also tested the battery with a multi-meter which read variably between 13.8-14 V, which if i understand correctly is within normal range, but oddly enough we put the battery through a stress test including turning on defrosted, turning sound system back on, headlights on etc, and the voltage didn't read much different, still bouncing between 13.8-14.
When tearing things apart, we also found that the starter solenoid was unbelievably loose due to a bad transmission mount, and one bolt was missing, so we were thinking that could be arcing causing the problems, but when the solenoid was tightened down, the problems still persisted.
Started the car, let it warm up, and it seemed perfectly fine. I drove it into town without problems, but forgot my wallet at home, so i had to turn around and go back. Almost made it home, the car died while stopping at a stop sign. Tried turning it back over, nothing the first 3 times, let it sit for about 5 minutes and the car turned right over as if nothing was wrong. Died again when i made it into my driveway about 0.5 miles away and the symptoms repeated until the car finally just turns on like normal now, but the idle is at 1100 RPMS (not sure if related or not) even though the car is at the optimal temperature. I tried driving it again after the car starts normally like it does now, but it just repeats the symptoms that it has been, cutting off but leaving the stereo, headlights etc on. I managed to get it back in my driveway.
I own a stock 2010 golf with 22k miles on it. There seems to be a problem with brake feel. Brake pedal feels way too soft and there is way too much pedal travel for brakes to engage. Car won't start decelerating until pedal is pushed nearly 1/2 of its total travel length. However there seems no problem with stopping the car. On hard braking car stops well (with ABS). Another problem is brake feel isn't linear.
View 10 RepliesWhat would make a clutch switch keep going out? I've replaced it 3 times in the past year and at this point I'm pretty sure it's not bad switches. I currently have a UM NA tune with launch control which obviously doesn't work when the switch goes bad.
View 1 RepliesJust bought my first r 32 recently , had previously owned a 20th anniversary GTI, anyway guy i bought the car from mentioned the awd system was not working , recently was driving and clutch would not go into gear in addition to the haldex or awd not functioning . The clutch also kinda "stuck" to the floor .. Also I noticed some fluid on the undercarriage the day I brought it home . I'm pretty sure the car was beat on but there aren't many available up this way , and honestly I know I'm prob gonna spend some to get her road worthy again , Also felt like the car was operating in rwd for some reason and traction control light is on.
View 3 RepliesI've had my Golf for about two and a half weeks now. Since the first day, I noticed a soft rattle coming from the car wheel sitting in neutral with the clutch out. If I push the clutch in, it quiets down even further but is still existent. If it's in gear and under load no noise.
I bought the car with 48 miles on it IIRC.