Golf IV R32 :: Clutch Pedal Dropping Out From Under Foot?
Jul 19, 2010
I started having issues with my clutch pedal "dropping out" from under my foot. Not necessarily during a shift. It still works but will stay down towards the bottom of the travel and after either lifting with my toe or pressing it a few times it kicks back up and usually stays up. Is this my clutch dieing? or something hydraulic related? Hoping I don't have to replace clutch. Searched R32 forum for anything similar and couldn't find anything.
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Last night pulling out of a gas station I gave the R some gas and dropped the clutch. The car lurched me into the street but then the RPM just climbed while in gear. Shifted to second, same thing. After a couple of seconds it finally caught and started driving normally.
The whole way home I smelled horrible organic-ness yet didn't feel anymore slipping. To do another test, I have a large hill to climb going into my apartment complex. I went ahead and turned off the traction control and went at it, everything went fine, AWD kicked in and clutch held.
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About 2-3 months ago I noticed that whenever I would push the clutch in and let the revs drop, they would drop below the 800 rpm mark and the car would automatically rev them back up to prevent from stalling. This usually happens when I am slowing to come to a stop, like coming down an off-ramp or to a stop light. Then one night after a 45 minute steady speed highway drive, I pushed the clutch in, shifted to neutral and let the clutch out and coasted to a stop. As the revs dropped, the engine stalled completely and the red alternator warning light came on. While still rolling on the highway, I pushed and held the start/stop button and it immediately started back up.
Over the last 6 weeks, this has become more frequently. It is now at a point where the revs will pretty much always drop below 800 rpm when I slow down and the car usually revs them back. However, I have had six more stall episodes like the one above and it is starting to scare me about driving. I find myself revving the engine when I coast in neutral to slow down to prevent this from happening. This happens either with the clutch depressed and gear engaged and slowing or clutch out and in neutral gear.
The car has never had issues. I am the sole owner. Just coming up on 30,000 miles. I currently have UM tune stage 2, EVOMS intake, APR HPFP, 42DD downpipe with stock cat-back exhaust, HPA short shifter with metal cable bushings, Stoptech Street rotors and pads, VWR springs and RSR clutch, which was installed at about 22,000 miles one year ago. Have serviced it religiously, oil changes every 5,000 miles, did the water pump recall and had no issues thus far.
I moved from high-elevation Utah to New Hampshire last summer. The tune and calibration were all done in Utah prior to the move. These symptoms/issues beginning and getting worse coincided with the cold winter and lots of snow were are having. Could that and the tune having been calibrated at another elevation have anything to do with this?
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So I just recently had to take my 2010 Golf TDI into the shop to replace the mechanics unit. Took them a while to get the unit installed but overall I was happy. The car was driving perfect for about 2-3 months. Then all of a sudden the transmission starting violently surging and dropping the clutch again. I thought the mech unit was going bad again in less than 5K miles. I couldn't get the car in the shop until about 3-4 days after and I did drive the car there because the surging was manageable. It did kick the car into safe mode when the dsg appeared to overheat. It turns out there was a leak from the gasket. They are fixing it now free of charge but it looks like they messed up.
The issue is now I am afraid of any damage that may have been caused to the mech/clutch form the fluid getting low. Should I be worried about this and if so what should I do? I would think the shop should be responsible for any damage done to the car.
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I read all of the threads regarding clutch vibrations and other problems but I have 1,500 miles on my R and since day 1 I have been feeling a very slight ticking on my foot when the clutch is depressed. It gets more pronounced when I rev the engine a bit but nothing you can hear. Is this a normal feeling or should I not feel this at all.
I'm getting the APR tune next week and will do HPFP/intake soon but I need to be convinced that the Carbonio Intake is actually an upgrade from the stock intake with just a K&N filter, it doesn't look much different, the intake area looks the same as stock. I don't want to have to modify the engine cover or else I'd get the VWR intake. Any experience with the K&N vs stock vs Carbino?
Not sure if it was just the hot/humid weather yesterday but the car felt a little boggy when starting in 1st gear like it was running too rich or something. Any history of this?
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I came home last night and rolled into the driveway. With the car in neutral I took my foot off the clutch and the car stalled. I get in the car this morning to go to work, and it's still happening. I put it in reverse to see if it will drive.....and now it's stuck in reverse.
I can't get it into any other gear or neutral..........even when the car is off. I've unattached the linkage, and the shift knob moves freely.....so I don't think it's that. I found these old threads (one even mine)
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So I'm lead to believe that the master/slave cylinder is acting up again. Also, how can I get it into neutral so I can at least get it towed and stop blocking my driveway?
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I've been noticing that when I step on it some times my clutch pedal seems to get stiff and if I press on it a couple times its normal again. This has been going on for awhile now and I've just been driving it normal but when I do decide to get on it then the pedal will get stiff..
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Can switch out the R's clutch pedal for the Audi R8? Was in an Audi showroom yesterday and there was an R8, and it was actually open. It was manual and the clutch placement was perfect, way better than the R. I've got short legs, but the R8's reach was great. The R is a bit long for me.
I know that there is compatibility across Audi/VW platforms, but I'm not sure of the R8. The TT is compatible for sure but I don't know if the clutch pedal is the same or not.
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Just as the title states. When I put the AC on in the car my clutch pedal gets some play in it, enough that it messes up shifting and gets jerky. I tried searching, but no results
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Ok so I took my R out to look track to get some 1/4mile passes in. Didn't do anything out of the norm. Took my first pass and noticed that much clutch pedal wasn't feeling right. It wasn't grabbing like it usually does, it was grabbing close to the floor. I took it out of gear and pumped the clutch peddle a few times and then it grabbed like it normally would. I've never had something like this happen in any of my VWs or any other car. What may have happened? I was thinking maybe a slave cylinder issue?
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Put in a brand new Clutch Masters stage 2 kit with flywheel and throwout bearing. Also installed ecs bleeder block. Got everything back together and bled the system. But the pedal is still sticking to the floor with no pedal feel at all.
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This morning I could feel vibration in both the clutch pedal and the brake pedal under normal acceleration. This just happened and is significant enough to make me feel something is wrong. Car has about 5700 miles on it. To be honest, I have never liked this transmission and have zero confidence in it. It feels completely weak, loose, soft, and lacks any feedback except unbelievably notchy shifting. Maybe it's my DieselGeek. I've already had to tighten/adjust it twice in ~2000 miles.
I am not resting my foot on the pedals during acceleration. I can feel the vibration as I go to engage the clutch/apply brakes.
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I have a question about an annoying issue that I'm having with the clutch pedal: is it normal for the clutch pedal to knock or vibrate whenever the AC is on? I ask because it only happens when the AC is turned on. The knocking goes away if I fully depress the clutch pedal or only lightly depress it. It seems to only occur in the in-between.
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So my clutch has been acting up lately. When it sits for a few hours the clutch engagement point seemed to creep down but over the course of 35 minutes of driving would work its way back up again. Today it was unusually low and wouldn't let me get it into gear. I tried pumping it a few times and realized it wasn't coming back up all the way, I pulled it up and then tried again and it just dropped right to the floor where it now sits. Fortunately I was at work and can hang here until my ride arrives, and will just wait until late tomorrow night to drive it to my shop without stopping...
My guess is I need a new clutch master cylinder. I have plenty of fluid in there although its a bit old so I'll be changing that when I change the cylinder. Could it be the slave cylinder? If so is it a bear to change that? (do I need to drop the trans?)
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Experienced a chatter in the clutch pedal with the a/c on when clutch pedal is pushed in. To me it feels like the throw bearing isn't disengaging the clutch fully, plus my clutch is kind of high once full disengage unless its normal.
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I changed my brake light switch, and i had my buddy check it with vagcom and now I am getting a clutch pedal switch fault and I am also getting a clutch mechanical fault in my rear end what the most probable cause of this, could it be the clutch pedal switch causing a mechanical fault?
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I am having a scratchy type feeling in my clutch pedal when i accelerate in 1st gear or R from Neutral. as im easing off the clutch and applying gas, there is a mild scratchy feeling coming from the clutch pedal. its more a feel and no noise. The car is brand new with 600km, its a 6 spd gti. I just want to see if its normal or whether i should get it looked at.
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I DD the car. I'd like to be able to start the car without depressing the clutch, so i don't have to jump into the car while in my work gear to start it. Now to my knowledge, there are 2 clutch switches. One at top side near steering column/shat. And another near the firewall.
Correct me if I'm wrong, top side is for cruise and ecu. Bottom side towards firewall is for the starter and such.
My question, is there a way to fool bottom side clutch switch to thinking it is depressed so I am able to start the car without the pedal depressed.
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If I'm at part throttle and i press the clutch pedal in about 2-3 inches, leaving the clutch still fully engaged, i can feel a really rough vibration in the clutch pedal. it stops vibrating as soon as i let off the gas. and i'm only giving it a little bit of gas, mind you.
If I'm at idle, and i have the clutch depressed all the way and rev the engine, I can feel vibration in the clutch pedal. My 6-speed MK4 did not do this, not in the slightest. Is this normal for MK6 or do I have a problem?
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I just finished installing a new clutch kit on my 2003 Jetta Wolfsburg Edition 1.8 and I have absolutely no pressure on the clutch pedal, I am pretty sure I installed everything correctly. How do you bleed the clutch lines, how do you know if the slave cylinder is bad. When i push the clutch pedal it just goes to the floor with absolutely no return.
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So over the weekend my clutch pedal stuck to the floor 2 times and would not come all the way up on several occasions. It has since then stopped doing it. I am wondering if I should bleed my clutch or not. Flush and change fluid?
Just concerned it may turn worse.
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