I just installed new coils, front and rear control arm bushings, and ball joints. I had some noise before the install, but after it was all good and quiet. Now, I have a clunk during braking hard, and I've noticed a clunk upon moving forward. In my mind I would think the mounts are going bad. 140k, and i'm not sure if they've been replaced before. I do know the dog bone has an insert.
View 6 Repliesi am wondering if any other touareg v-10 owners have experienced what i call "slop in the drivetrain"?symptoms: when just crawling off from a dead stop and then letting off of the pedal i can both hear and feel a little clunk whether forward or reverse. its real subtle but its always there if you listen for it. Is this just what they call normal "slash" of the worm gears in the differentials? i would hate to find out later once warranty's gone that i should have done something about it earlier? i have 19,000 miles on it, 70%highway and 30% city driving.
View 5 RepliesHave the HPA SHS installed now. Everything is aligned. Getting the worst clunk noise when moving the car backwards. The noise comes from the front right. Clunking with slight vibration felt in steering wheel. Also clunks when straightening out the wheel to move forward. The noise stops once I start going. What could cause this?
View 24 RepliesMy Santa Fe has roughly 120,000 miles on it (v6, fancy version with the sun roof). Today, I got in to go to a meeting. Noticed the car was shimmying and having trouble moving forward. Then noticed my check engine light was on. Managed to drive 5 miles to the meeting, and an hour later, the light and the shimmying were gone. What's going on? (Or even wildly speculative guesses?) ...
View 1 RepliesI've bought a brand new 2012 Prius C 3.
This morning I was trying to back out of a parking spot and put it on a reverse after starting my car. As soon as I my car started moving forward and hit the curb right in front of the car. I couldn't believe my eyes so I put the gear back to Parking and back to reverse, and as soon as I touched gas, it again accelerated forward.
Yesterday I reversed my 1996 Subaru Outback (manual transmission) out of a perpendicular parking place on a hill, swung around forward and coasted down the hill. Near the bottom, I let out the clutch out without realizing I was still in reverse gear. It made a not-so-awful noise (sounding rather like engine braking) and I very quickly put it in neutral. I immediately smelled a fairly strong gasoline/exhaust aroma and the engine stalled.
The Subaru restarted without trouble, but the check engine light was on. Everything appears to function normally now, and I've reset the engine light by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for a few minutes.
Have I likely damaged anything? Is there anything I should check? Should I have tried to read the diagnostic code?
So It's been a while since I've noticed this wearing rusty sound when moving the driver seat forward and back. It only happens at a certain point where I feel most of my family members are positioned when driving.... I took a look it seemed a bit rusted... Will post pics later.
View 3 RepliesOK, this is the second time I noticed this. I'm at a stop light, looking around, suddenly, I notice I am slightly moving forward. Is my foot (on the brake) just too relaxed, or what? I have never experienced this before in any vehicle.
View 14 RepliesSo today I got in the car and started to drive off and noticed a squeal coming from the front passenger tire while the vehicle is moving forward. This is the first time I've heard this noise and it is very annoying and loud.
Details on the car:
2011 Sonata Limited (not turbo)
Roughly 34700
I purchased it used with 28K on it in May of this year
I have a 1994 Honda Accord EX AT. Recently, while I am stopped at a Stop Sign or a Red Light, the car will suddenly start moving forward causing me to apply more pressure to the brakes. It also feels that the brake pedal is traveling a lot further now.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Limited with an issue with my driver's seat. The heater works but I cannot get the seat to move forward/backward etc. The passenger side works and I've switched the fuses around so it isn't the fuse.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 dakota in the morning after the first start, moving foward the truck rocks and feels like trans. slipping. After 5 mins, just fine. Change the Trans. Ffilter?
View 1 RepliesPassat moving forward very slightly every few seconds while stopped with auto stop button engaged? It happened twice to me today on a flat surface.
View 7 Replies2011 F250 6.7L Powerstroke, automatic tranny, Electric Locking Diff
When I engage the On the Fly 4WD switch the indicator panel says "shift to 4x4H in Progress" and everything seems fine but if I am not moving forward when I shift the 4WD doesn't engage. The engine revs up but nothing happens. When I release the accelerator the transfer case bangs like it is going to rip out of the truck. In reverse it is even worse. I am lucky that I didn't gun it or I could have done allot of potential damage. All my other Ford 4WD vehicles engage immediately from a full stopped position. This is quite of troublesome because if you have to shift when your stuck in the mud, your still stuck. If I shift while moving forward it works just fine.
My question is: Does this particular model (2011 F250 6.7L Powerstroke with an automatic tranny) have to be moving forward in order for the 4WD to engage?
2010 F150 for the past 15,000 miles I have been experiencing a nasty repetitive surge when moving slowly forward with the brakes on, as you would do going through a drive through. The truck shakes when this happens and is very noticeable. Ford reprogrammed the transmission module, and now the surge happens twice as fast. What was the remedy? This is my first Ford after only GM products for the past 30 years.......and I hope they can find a resolution soon.
View 1 RepliesWhile driving our 1990 toyota corolla (3-speed automatic transmission) on the freeway recently, the car gave a slight jerk, at which point my husband looked at the gas gauge and noticed it was well below "E".. Oops. fortunately, there was an exit right there with a gas station. Filled up and we were off toward the next on-ramp. Got to about 35-40 mph, and all of a sudden the car literally just stopped moving forward after violently jerking back and forth several times. We then tried to put in neutral and push it to the side, but it wouldn't even do that. Everything was locked up, seized solid. Somehow we managed to get it to the side.
The flatbed tow truck took us home, and all we could do by that point was move a foot or two in reverse after it dropped us off... fast forward... After several days/weeks of it sitting around we can now actually drive it forward! reverse! but we haven't taken it out of the driveway to go more than 5 mph.. We had seen some fluid leaking prior to this incident, but could NOT figure out where it was coming from despite checking obvious fluids meticulously every couple of days. A friend said it might have been the diff fluid? We'd like to fix the car, but to repair a tranny on this old car (although it only has 67K miles!!!) is too expensive. My husband wants to make it a weekend project.
I have a 1995 ranger four letre 5sp, dubbed Beula. I figured there'd be a few gremlins and there was and is, which I know to be more common than not in older trucks. The top priority is figuring out why when I push the lever for the high beams forward, the headlights cut out completely, whether in gear or not, and I don't know where to begin troubleshooting. I've surfed around the forums looking for answers and really only found conjecture.
View 14 Replies2004 Ranger Edge 2wd 3.0L. When the truck has been sitting for a while and i start moving forward there is a very loud sound of metal on metal. Changed the diff fluid last week, used royal purple 75-140 with the friction additive. No change, tried to take rear wheels off, but the drums are stuck by the pads. I was able to get the drums off only bout an inch.
Recently, I've noticed that on hard acceleration the RPM go up but it seems sluggish on acceleration. There is also a vibration that comes from the rear and goes away when i remove my foot from the accelerator. The squeal happens between 15 and 20 mph, but goes away fairly quickly. The vibration happens around 40 or so. I am thinking rear axle bearings? But i cant get my drums off to replace the bearings.
When I turn my car to the left or right i hear a clicking sound. Usually happens when I am moving slow, like when backing into a driveway or parking spot. Could this be a tie rod, ball joint, or what? How can I be sure before just replacing parts? I need to have this fixed before I get my alignment, which has to happen before I get my rims.
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 F250 5.4 has started to make a screeching sound. It only happens when it is in gear (auto) moving forwards or in reverse, and increases in pitch relative to engine speed rather than road speed, and is much more noticeable under mild to moderate acceleration. Maybe I actually mean transmission input speed?
When simply maintaining road speed, it is almost silent. Anyway, if I drop it into neutral while driving, the sound stops, and starts again when I put it back into gear.
From the drivers seat and with the windows closed, it sounds as though it is coming from the engine bay at steering column height, although this is really tough to gauge while actually looking where I am going. With windows open, it comes from both sides of the vehicle.
1st thought is tranny......
2nd thought is a water pump bearing, although there are no apparent cooling problems or leaks.
3rd thought is the alternator bearing, although there are no charging problems.
I say alternator because I recently changed the serpentine belt and noticed that the alternator made a very faint screech-like sound when spun without the belt on it. The main screech was there before I changed the belt. Maybe it gets really loud under load?
So I'm kinda scratching my bean and wondering what expensive piece of mechanics I'm going to shell out for next. If it's #2 or #3, I can do those myself, but if it's #1.... it likely means more money than I have to spare.
I did wonder about removing the serpentine belt and driving a very short distance (end of the driveway and back) to see if I can remove the pulleys, tensioner or other belt driven parts from the equation. Maybe this is not such a smart idea. I'm somewhat at a loss right now.
Our Vitz 5 door hatch has about 127000km on it and sometimes when moving off makes a clunk as the transmission takes up. What could cause this it also dosent appear to have a transmission dip stick unlike our Platz. Both cars have the 1.5 motor but both are different years the Platz is 2002 and the Vitz 2006. The mechanic said the Vitz has a sealed for life type gearbox. The engine mounts appear to be okay. So where do I look now?
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