Golf IV R32 :: Check Engine Light Come Up / Secondary Air Pump Broken
Mar 13, 2010
I recently had a check engine light come up on my 2004 r32. Dealer told me that the secondary air pump is broken and needs to be replaces, codes that came up were p1432, p1423, and p1411.
I replaced the pump and the next day I heard the "vacuum" sound of the air pump so I know that it works. A day later my check engine light come on again, and I cannot hear the pump anymore.
Now I just changed the pump, not even the rubbery inserts as I didn't know. The pipes seemed to be fine. I checked the quote from the dealer and they also mentioned that the intake pipe is broken, part number 1J0-131-128-AB.
Is that one of the pipes that is connected with the secondary air pump or it's the main intake pipe??? If it's from the main intake, is it possible that the secondary air pump want work because of that???
Should I change the rubbery inserts on the secondary air pump??? Is it safe to drive until I take care of this?
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Ok so I accidentally broke the hose that connects the secondary air pump to the stock intake box and been looking around for a replacement. I have looked around and searched and searched and the only one I found is this one: [URL] .....
Will this work for a 2004 1.8T? I know it says that its for the 2000-01 but it looks exactly like the one that goes on mine. Haven't checked the dealer to see how much they want for it but it will most likely be an arm and a leg.
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Got a check engine light, whoever scanned it said something about a secondary air intake? Upon searching, I found a post about a bad MAF.
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Encountered this check engine problem > 16805 and 16815 < I replaced the 02 sensors, problem solved for 1000 kms, and now the dreaded light is showing its face again ! Possible secondary air system at fault? Cat about to go, or already gone?
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I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
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I got my a fuel injector cleaning on my Saturn at the dealer. They sent me on my way with the car smelling like gas. After days of driving with the smell of gas, the service engine light on, and the car stalling I took back into the dealer. Now they are telling me that the fuel pump is broken and they want me to pay for it. This does not seem right. What happened. This seems to me something that the mechanic messed up...
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I have 2000 Pontiac Grand AM V6 3.4 liter. The check engine light came on and when I used the computer to see what's the problem, it gave me code PO412 which is air pump. The light turned off, but when I turned my car back ON, the light came again. Where the air pump is located in 2000 Pontiac Grand AM ?
When I hit the gas, the RPM goes all the way up and looks like it wont change the gear. The car is really lazy and I hope the air pump is the problem to fix this ?
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My check engine light is on and I think the inverter pump is shot. I have a some questions about how and when the pump is on. I have a mini vic on order and as soon as I get it hooked up I'll run for some codes. That is if I get it installed????
1- With the car in "ready mode" and at start up (car cold) should the inverter coolant pump be running.
2- With the car in "ready mode" Should I always see a water moving in the water reservoir.
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I recently had a Jasper rebuilt engine installed in my Ford E150. Since than my check engine light keeps coming on and the computer is saying my cas air mix is "lean". The instaler says i need a new fuel pump.Another mechanic says it is more likely a vacuum problem.I know it's possible that the fuel pump is bad bur since this has just started since the install, I don't believe it can be the fuel pump unless it's just one hell of a coincidence.
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Well I had the dreaded loss of power and EPC/Check Engine light happen on Monday. Was driving down the Interstate and all of sudden we just lost power. It did not go completely dead, but it ran like crap. Called the local VW and they advised to bring it in, still under warranty (27k, 26mths) and it turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump. They replaced the pump and the replacement was bad! Luckily they tested it before they got it out the door back to me. Provided me with a loaner and the dealer had to get a replacement pump overnight. Picked up the car yesterday and everything drives the way it should again.
I had already had the software update, but according to the service advisor that was for the fuel pump in the tank, not the one on the engine. Not sure if that is correct, but that is what the advisor told me..
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I just replaced fuel pump and tps on my 1989 Dodge Dakota 4 cyl truck. Now it idles rough and the check engine light came on. I have removed battery cable to reset computer but did no good. What could be the problem now? I have since replaced the plug wires and distrib cap and it is flashing 3 5 5 twice now?
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The secondary air pump on my 2001 went out the other day. The question that I have is it bad to drive with a bad pump?
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Looks like I have an issue with the Secondary Air Pump, but I am not sure where its located, where this is on the car?
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I have had an engine code for some time claiming my auxiliary air pump is not working properly. My indy saw no obvious problem, but it could just be shot. He suggested I take it to the dealer. But from my understanding, that pump only works to achieve cleaner combustion when the engine is cold right after a start. I am tempted to continue ignoring it. Would I be making a mistake? I haven't noticed any power or mpg reduction.
I guess I can always take my car in for the under the hood seal recall and have them do a diagnostics too.
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Where the secondary air injection pump is? I'm getting P1411 & P1423 codes.
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Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
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I have a question? I have had my car parked for about 2 1/2 months and I just started it this weekend and I've always noticed on our cars when we start them in the morning I think it's the secondary air pump that turns on, it sounds like a blow dryer.. It only stays on for about 10 seconds maybe. Cause when I started my car this weekend I didn't hear come on.
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Started with the p0410 trouble code. Pump was seized, so replaced pump along with the check valve and hoses. Ran fine for about a day, then noticed pump was running when I passed by the vehicle. Unplugged it, plugged back in, and all seemed to be fixed. Now the check engine light back on, and again the pump stays running- vehicle turned off and key removed from ignition. Have to go borrow a code tester again, but what is causing the pump to stay running? I don't want this one to burn up. I need to get it smogged for my reg renewal asap before I get penalized for it being late. The guy who replaced the pump and did the unplugging thing just wants to reset the codes and try again. I'm thinking there is a more logical reason or a step he neglected to do when replacing the pump.
99 suburban LS 5.7l V8
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I have a beautiful 1996 Saab, 900s. Recently the check engine light came on and at Autozone they said the code was for the secondary air injection pump. I took it to a new mechanic, he checked it out and called me to say the pump itself was broken and would cost 1,000 to fix. I said that was a lot, and would think about it, and picked up my car.
Strangest thing- the check engine light is now off! Is this normal? And I just took the car in for the state inspection, it passed! I was under the impression a car without a working secondary air injection pump can't pass emissions. What is going on here??
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I have a PZEV (Partial zero emission vehicle) 2006 Focus. Recently, my car threw the check engine light. Looked at the two codes, found out it was for the secondary air system. I pulled the car apart, removed the pump, checked that the pump was indeed receiving 12v (checked with a multimeter) with ignition-on-engine-off. I couldn't feel, or hear, the pump spinning. Figuring it was the source of the problem (as opposed to a clogged hose), I replaced the relay, thinking that perhaps it was on its dying leg. That didn't work. I next replaced the pump, which also didn't work. I can't even hear or feel the new pump running with ignition-on-engine-off.
I "reset" the codes, or so I thought, by disconnecting my battery for quite a few minutes. During the first startup, the check engine light isn't on. Starting up again though later in the day, the light returns. The engine does run a bit rough when cold without the pump malfunctioning for the first few brief moments.
Is the pump supposed to be powered and running for the entire time ignition-on-engine-off (I assume so since it is receiving 12v). How loud should these guys be? I would have thought I would be able to feel the motor spinning or hear something....
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What is the solution to fix the secondary pump humming/vibration noise? I get this humming noise from my driver side center dash area and according to few other members, it's the secondary pump. Some dealer fixed it by moving it to the side a bit to stop the vibration.
My dealer told me that's false and it's normal to make that noise (never had this noise before) and if there is something wrong, VWoA will issue an TSB to fix it..
Well, they won't do anything until there is an TSB and I was wondering if it's a easy fix that i can do it myself??
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