Golf IV R32 :: Chatter Noise After Plastic Coolant Pipe Swap
Nov 6, 2012
My car started make a weird chatter noise. The noise was never there before I swapped out the plastic coolant pipe with the billet crack pipe.
Car info : Stock flash, flapper open, EVOMs intake, 46k miles
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Come out to the this am and notice a small puddle that was not there last night. Pull the car out and it's start burning something off. Roll the car in first thought is oil (maybe the turbo return line is leaking) no its coolant. On the lower portion of the down pipe and running across the bottom. I'm at a loss as where the leak could be coming from being back there.
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I have a '02 Jetta Wagon with 180k miles. The plastic coolant pipe on the side of the head had been weeping (as they do) and I decided to replace it last night. The pipe replacement went smoothly and uneventful. When I removed the pipe as usual a normal amount of coolant spilled from the head down onto the trans area. After the replacement, I hosed down the top of the tranny with the garden house. I then took the car out for a drive.
First thing I noticed that my CEL was off (it had been on for a small emissions leak) and that seemed odd. Then about quarter mile down the road I noticed she was not shifting. It would hit maybe 30 at 3000 rpm and just stay there. So I pulled over and turned her off and looked under the hood...all seemed well. Started it back up and the CEL comes on right away. I drive and still stuck in gear.
I get home and run a cheap CEL check and get 00281 and 00652. Which seems to be fault codes for the VSS G68 sensor. So I check my connectors, take apart and make sure they are clean and dry...all seems good. I clear the codes and start it up and codes are right back again and stuck in gear.
It is late so lat thing I do is check the resistance of the G68 and get pins 1-2 800ohm, pins 1-3 800ohm, pins 2-3 1600ohm. I also check pins on G38 and get 1000ohm there.
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GS 350 AWD. I use the plastic pipe attached to a tube for draining. Worked fine the first few oil changes, but now it won't drain. The only way I can get it to drain is to leave the pipe attached and very, very briefly start the car and then turn it off. Then the oil pours out as it should. This happened the last time as well. I'm now at about 40,000 miles.
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My car has a knocking icking noise all the time, I think it is clutch chatter, but not fully sure. This is a 6MT 2011 GTI. It is annoying, but if you turn the radio up.... The annoying sound goes away....
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When pulling away casually in 1st from a stop, I hear a slight chatter noise. Had this since before the tune (stage 1). Almost like the sound a diesel makes at idle but only lasts a second or two. To the best of my knowledge it is an OEM clutch. Had 9k miles when I bought it, now has 25k.
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Just noticed my 2012 didn't come with a noise pipe. Did VW stop installing these for the 2012s?
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I just got my MkV R and I'm loving it. Quick question - with the EVOMS intake, does that come with the noise pipe delete? Or do I have to order the A3 MAF pipe and attach that to the EVOMS intake? And which is better? EVOMS or VF? Is one intake louder than the other?
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2012 GTi DSG... In low rpm when I have the gas pushed down and to get it up in speed to it sounds like in metal rattling around or like a plastic bag and you are smashing it around.
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Having problems with sunroof cover making noise when going over bumps? It just sounds like the plastic is making all the noise.
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It sounds like a plastic on plastic rattle coming from the dash area. The sound comes loudly through the vents, so I am thinking it is something under the hood. Bumps make it much worse. No relationship to whether I am on the throttle or not.
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I have been doing some research on why my 6sp MT makes a weird almost "Plastic Grinding" noise when shifting from 1st to second on cold days when it sits overnight. It has been getting under 40 degree that last couple days and it seems to go away after just a few minutes of driving. It only happens from 1st to 2nd. I have been told its normal and just because the trans fluid is thicker when cold.
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Been hearing a plastic sounding tapping noise when I ride over very bumpy roads. Turns out the floor panel in the trunk has some play and it's not padded. Well I wedged a towel Between the floor and the trunk lid and the tapping is gone. I was able to duplicate the sound by lifting and dropping the sliding floor in the trunk. Anyway I'm thrilled car is supple and quite over bumpy roads now. I went over every bumpy road I could find; nice and planted and quite now...
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I was changing the engine coolant on my 2005 Prius today. When I went to fill up the tanks, I noticed a small pool of coolant right under the filler pipe. I thought I might have overfilled something, but when I jiggled the filler pipe, I heard an air leak. It looks like there is a bad seal between the filler pipe and the radiator. I also noticed that my coolant recovery tank was empty. I never noticed this before so I don't know if this issue is related.
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I take my 4.2 to a great mechanic in the Minneapolis area. I took it in for some pretty hefty service. Control arm bushings, ATF change, and timing belt. My car has 205k miles on it and I feel like shes got another 100k in her. Lots of highway miles. I mentioned that I noticed a small coolant leak in the right front. He gave a compassionate grin and he seemed to know exactly what it was. He told me about a plastic pipe near the oil cooler that leaks. He's seen it on a handful of A8s. Told me to read up on it...I wish I hadn't. It seems like one hell of a job. Engine needs to come out.
My question is, if the engine is coming out and I've got 205k on it, do I take the opportunity to buy a used low mileage engine and enjoy another 200k+ miles? For those with experience regarding this leak, is this something I can live with, or does it continue to get worse? The system holds pressure as it is. It's a very small leak.
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I have a 2002 V6 Passat Wagon. I am hemorrhaging coolant out of my lower coolant pipe. I can reach it put my finger in a feel the coolant coming out as fast as I pour it in. I can't see any way to get at the pipe from the top and I can't see the hose that should be attached there from the top. I assume this means the front end will need to be jacked up and go at it from the bottom. Also note the intake and return from the heater in my car is mexi fixed and looped together (no heat).
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I own a 2001 isuzi trooper, the water pipe has been broken a couple times, so the radiator has been leaking so my car overheats. But I fixed it a couple of months ago, yet after I fixed it the car kept going through the water/coolant extremely fast and was overheating unless i put water in it every other day.
Yet, a couple of days ago, I was driving home, and i heard a bubbling noise, ignoring it i kept driving only to have complete loss of my accelerator and had my car rolling along the highway unable to accelerate. (And the last time I put water in the radiator was 10 days ago) now my car won't even turn on, and it sounds like it is having a very difficult time when I try the ignition. plus when I do try to turn the engine on, coolant is coming out of my exhaust pipe.
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I replaced water pump and thermostat...thermostat 2 times.
This is the thing : No coolant will come out the water outlet pipe.... I sit there for way too long and nothing flows out the outlet. remove the thermostat or an inlet hose and coolant flows out.
I overheated pretty bad... I drove maybe 10-15 minutes unaware. I suspected blown head gasket but no missing coolant and nothing in the oil. I removed the water outlet pipe and thermostat and just poured coolant in to see if any reached behind the thermostat. It did.
I even started the engine with it removed and coolant flowed out. now it didn't pour out...as in filling the entire diameter and squirting out... HOW MUCH pressure or flow should be normal there.
I am really stuck. I don't think air is an issue because I don't have a radiator cap. I am thinking blown head gasket restricting flow? New water pump is not up to par ?
Why the hell won't the thermostat open at all!!!!??? removed I get some flow!!! Its a get a jiggle pin. I am about to take into to be diagnosed but I cant believe this problem has turned into this. Can they test head gasket? I am preparing myself to do the head gasket and the rest.
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As shown in the photo, the metal pipe that runs behind the exhaust manifold is leaking coolant. I can't see the leak (obviously), but I can feel it with my hand (after getting burned on the exhaust!) It is NOT leaking from the right hand clamp of the metal pipe. How do I remove this pipe to inspect? Do I have to remove the exhaust to get to it, or simply remove the right side clamp and some bolts?
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Noticed this leak today a few days after parking the Ex (V10) -- not a daily driver. Crawled under the Ex and checked under the hood but I could not find an obvious sign of where the leak is coming from.
I checked the coolant plastic reservoir and its on MIN -- I believe that where it should be when the engine is cold. I noticed that these trucks do not have a cap directly on the radiator. That plastic reservoir, is that where I would top off the coolant?
Is there a spot on these engines where it would commonly leak? Should I try to put some dye on the coolant and/or possibly pressure test it?
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I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 Duramax diesel pickup. It has been blowing white smoke from the tail pipe and drinking coolant, 10 - 15 gallons since February. There are no obvious leaks of coolant under the truck. However, within the last 3 weeks it has on 4 occasions spewed coolant from the surge tank from the overflow vent. We have narrowed down the problem to either a headgasket leak or an injector leak.
We had it in to the dealership (big mistake) and they found nothing wrong. They think we either need to wait for something catastrophic to happen or do the head gasket and replace the heads. There is a technical service bulletin about the head gasket. There is anecdotal info from an article written by a master tech from GM about the injectors. We also know there is something about GM paying for the injectors and injector sleeves to be replaced if there is an issue like we have.
All the dealership is saying they did was drive around the truck and saw no coolant spewing forth and no smoke. They did see a lowering of coolant level in the surge tank. They also did another pressure test on the coolant system and found nothing. Outside temps and weather conditions have no effect on this situation unfortunately nor does the length of time it's driven. How much should a head gasket/head job cost? How much time should it take? Does it require removal of the cab? How much should an injector job cost? How much time should that take?
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