My car has been acting funny when I first turn it on I can't get into Reverse. But when I got to work today I could go right into reverse and park at work.
Then leaving I went to try and nothing the shifter I can push down and go to the side but will not go up like it's not even meant to do so. But by the time I got home and had to reserve a little and got it right in and I can reverse find no weird sounds or anything.
I've noticed that she has to turn over a few more times than normal to start up. I don't have any engine mods and I'm approaching 10k miles. I've found a couple posts where people say their cars are a little harder to start when it's cold out, but I live in Hawaii and the temperature is never below the mid 60's.
View 11 RepliesFirst: 2007 GX470 with 63k miles
On some 'cold' starts (and I use that term very loosely, because it never really drops below 40 degrees here), when the engine has sat overnight, and when I shift into reverse (never Drive, just Reverse) and stand on the brake I get a knock. I don't hear it in Park. Not valve clatter like on my german cars while the oil gets routed to the lifters, but instead a loud, startling deep-down knock that sounds like BAMBAMBAMBAMBAM. Then it goes away. Put it in neutral and the revs rise and it's gone. Put it in Drive and nothing there. Just lasts for maybe 5-10 seconds, but is it loud. BAMBAMBAMBAM! Like someone hitting a 2x4 on the block or tranny housing.
Once I'm past that 5-10 seconds it won't do it again all day. Just after a "cold soak". And perhaps 5-10% of the time.
There is a lot of examples with this motor of what some call "piston slap". Don't know if I have it - and I suppose it might get worse (to the point where I hear it) when the engine is cold and under load (in gear), but I don't get it in Drive. Just Reverse.
Is it a good deal to buy a 1.8t jetta with transmission problems. Won't go on reverse when the car is cold. 1500? mk4 vr6 .....
View 10 RepliesI recently purchased a 2002 Jetta VR6 GLX. It drives fine when the transmission is warm, but fails to go into reverse and has a hard time shifting out of first when it's cold. I took it to my german mechanic friend who specializes in transmissions and he said that both the valve body and transmission need to be replaced. Problem is I don't have the funds to replace both.
The current transmission has 131000 on it.
Noticed that the transmission is cold (ie. sits overnight) it is hard, sometimes impossible, to shift into reverse. Specs on my gti: 14k miles, pretty much stock, manual trans...
View 1 RepliesJust bought a 2005 Jetta 2.0 4 speed automatic (non tiptronic) with 92,000 miles. This is the old 1999-2005 style, not the New Jetta that was introduced that year.
I've done research and have found that the transmissions on these bodied Jettas seem to be acting up.
This one shifts fine with a few weird things. When I start the car cold (this is in LA, so even over night the temps don't go below 60), and I put it in reverse, the car does not go into reverse for a good 3-5 seconds. This does not happen after the car has been driven for a while. After that it shifts fine, no delay.
The other symptom is sometimes the shifts from 1st to 2nd gear are a bit rough, with a thump sound, but nothing too out of the ordinary...if it wasn't for the other mentioned problem above, I wouldn't think twice about the 1st to 2nd shift as many automatic cars have some rough shifts. All the other gears shift fine.
I've done the basic research to know there could be a couple things causing this such as clutch piston seals and excessive drainback. I want some more info since I know there are my experienced people on this forum. Should I be worried and are there any things I should do immediately?
I have also found that these transmissions are sealed and can not be checked for oil levels with out taking to expert shop. I've also seen that they are very sensitive to overfill and any service needs to be performed by experts. Should I just continue and come back to this if symptoms get worse?
I am having a problem with my MKIV, @ 182k. I think problem first arose a couple months ago when reverse began not engaging on cold starts, so I would have to sit there 5-10 minutes waiting for car to 'warm up' enough for reverse to engage. This led me to taking it to a local tranny shop who I asked to change fluid only, which they did. Problem persisted however, but forward driving was noticeably much smoother. If that matters. I gave up on it, since I knew it was only reverse messing up, and started parking in reverse overnight etc.
Simultaneously I had a code for P0420/P0411 (the SAI incorrect flow crap which causes catalyst inefficiency) so I went ahead and swapped out the cracked SAI plastic hose leading to stock airbox, after doing so I reset the CEL and ran the car. And it ran like crap, I think it was in limp mode (i had never experienced this in my Jetta) from what Ive read, but not sure. So, I pulled to the side, and restarted car, let it sit, same problem. Finally, after 3-4 cycles it threw a CEL, which ironically FIXED the problem. It ran fine from then on. Made it home, hooked up scanner and CEL code was P0732, which I read elsewhere is a 'Gear 2 - Incorrect Ratio' meaning 2nd gear is messed up somehow.
So, overnight I reset CEL and today in the morning I let it idle for 10 minutes before taking off, immediately same issue, where car will not accelerate/ change gears it seems. Went back straight home, waited for CEL to display, and VOILA, runs fine again. Same code P0732. Running fine as of writing this. Problem only arose after taking a swing at SAI code and reset of CEL's. Once CEL lights up its fine.
How do I turn on the automatic rear wipe when I put the car in reverse? I already activated it in the car's menu but it still doesn't do it when I put the car in reverse. I am still trying to figure out the automatic wipe for the front also . Had it activated in the menu and also left the stick in the int position...going to see if it work tomorrow in the rain. Having problem with juddering issue on their wipers (front and back)? I got the for about 2-3 months now and today is the first time I drove it in the rain so haven't notice these issues since I got the car.
View 8 RepliesI just purchased my first VW about a month ago. (Golf tsi white auto). I love the way the car drives/handles. But I was surprised because at just under a 1000 miles the engine light went on. Took it to VW service to check it out. They had to keep it for a few days to do tests with the main VW center. I got the car back without much explanation other than they put in an O2 sensor.
No engine light now for a couple weeks. They also noticed that my wheels are missing 4 lug nut covers (not a big deal). For some reason I am just starting to notice the green brake light on when I first turn on the ignition prior to setting in reverse which disappears upon reverse or drive. I assume this is normal... Question: should I be concerned about this engine light O2 sensor issue?
My daughter owns a 1992 Honda Accord wagon, she cannot get it to start on colder days. Sometimes she goes out and runs a hair dryer over the engine, it works, but it is getting worse. Her husband says that is ridiculous to do.
View 2 RepliesWhen it's cold out, sub-60F, the car won't turn over when the key is turned to start. Eventually, after repeated attempts, it will turn over and start like normal. My battery is fairly new. My first guess would be a starter relay issue but according to the manual I have there is no starter relay.
View 2 RepliesWe just bought a 2013 ford escape and every morning when we turn on the ignition we hear a quick pop noise under the drivers side near the back (I think). Sometimes it happens if the car is sitting in a parking lot for a long time and then you start it. The same quick brief pop noise. Sounds like a popcorn pop. It happens when the car is cold. I cannot figure out if its something because the vehicle is running fine and its hard to prove to dealership. They said nothing to worry about because they could not hear it.
View 3 RepliesI have cleaned the fuel injectors, put in new spark plugs and new spark plug wires. What else I can do. The only time it starts easily is when it's very hot. If I leave it off for just 5 minutes, it will start up quickly. And a few times, when it is dead cold it will start on the first turn. All other times I have to crank it for what seems like minutes. I'm killing batteries and starters on a regular basis.
View 2 RepliesEver since its been real cold out, or if the car sits overnight, I've noticed my car doesn't turn on right away. Hold the key for a solid 2 seconds before it turns over.
View 9 RepliesSo, for the past year or so, my R backfires on cold starts. I have had the MAF, Fuel pump, door sensor, and coil packs replaced. Still no progress. Now that it is starting to cool down here in CO, this is happening much more often.
View 15 RepliesCouple months ago I noticed that my car was experiencing rough idle, stuttering exhaust note during cold start. RPM is very stable!
Forward 4-5 months to last week, starting to notice vibration and it seems like the situation has gotten worse. The car returns to normal after 1 minute or so depending on how long it has been sitting there for. For example, If I park there for 30 minutes and try to start the car, I can feel a little vibration for up to 10 seconds. If it was parked for overnight, then the problem lasts up to one minute and then clears out. Now it's throwing a P0302 error which is cylinder 2 misfiring.
It's really like magic, the car would idle pretty rough and suddenly clears out.
I put in 4 brand new ignition coils and plugs, all OEM stuff and still hasn't worked.
This problems started during the winter time and I can clearly notice it's gotten worse and finally last week it threw the misfiring code.
I feel like something is failing or building up slowly. My car is a 2009 GTI TSI which has the same engine as the MK6 GTI.
I recently got my Mk7 1.8T manual brand new and have been wondering about the long cold start idle. It usually takes around a minute or two before the revs drop below 1000. Coming from a '04 Mercedes and '11 TDI Jetta, I can say those cars the idles dropped much faster. Is this normal with the golf?
View 11 Repliesjust got my R32 a year and 3 months ago and love it. I came across my first issue though a couple months ago, when i start my car on cold starts before it would of course go to the cold start mode at over 1,000 rpm's before going back down after 30 seconds and depending on the weather i'd let it warm up anywhere from 5-15 minutes.
Well a couple months ago my car wouldn't do its normal cold start routine, i'd turn it and it made its loud pitch as if it was going to do the cold start and it just immediately went down to regular idle skipping the warm up, it did this for a week before i got it checked out. I went to a shop by me and he said that it might be a thermostat sensor so i replaced it and nothing. So he then pulled my throttle body off cleaned it did the whole calibration thing or whatever its called that you have to do when unplugging them and it went back to normal!!! Well after a month (two weeks ago) its doing it again. Then he told me it might be that the throttle body has some condensation frozen and isn't allowing the throttle to open like it needs too.
I live in a suburb 20 minutes north of chicago and i don't drive the car if it snows, i keep it in my garage. I have a CAI installed on the car that i put on back in March of 09 and a flapper that i just permanently opened with an IV clamp. So i don't have any big modification on the car...yet
At cold start (car sitting at least 8 hours), and the first block or so of driving, I have been getting smoke from the exhaust. I am not 100% certain whether to describe it as black or blue. If I start and idle the car, the smoke continues until I start driving.
After warming the car up, I have tried letting the car sit and idle for an extended period (over 5 minutes), and the smoke does not reappear.
Background;
- APR Stage 3 car, 17,700 miles
- On a particularly cold night this winter, the BFI clean catch did freeze up, and the car started blowing smoke. I removed it for winter and re-installed recently.
- Oil change with Rotella T6 and Mann filter 700 miles ago; the level when warm is at Max level
During the winter, it is hard to say whether this issue was happening. I noticed the issue some time after changing the oil, so I am wondering if the oil level may be slightly high. I changed the oil around the time the weather started consistently staying above 40F, though, so it could be coincidence.
I tried to come up with what the cause could be. What I was thinking (in order of easy to difficult);
- It's normal! The weather is warm, and the fuel trims have not adjusted yet, so it's running rich at start-up.
- It's normal! Typical 2.0T stuff.
- It's a catch can problem. Troubleshoot by removing it and seeing if the smoking stops.
---> Catch can is NOT full. I check it at least once per week.
- It's a turbo problem. The catch can freezing overpressurized the turbo lines and blew a seal
---> Although my experience has been that idling the car should bring the smoke back in this case, which I haven't gotten it to do.
- It's an engine problem.
My 2010 gti has a p30030 misfire cylinder 3 only on cold starts. Swapped plugs and coil packs, still only on 3. Took a look inside every cylinder and found that there was some oil in the cylinder only cylinder 3. So much blow by that it kind of collected in the cylinder? Carbon cleaning needed?
View 7 Replies