Golf IV R32 :: Car Started Shaking When Down Shifted Back Into Third Gear
Mar 9, 2012
Last night I was messing around with a bimmer. I was on 2nd gear, so i floored it and it wouldn't go in third gear. So I tried fourth and it wasn't going 4th neither. So i threw it in fifth. Started driving, I down shifted back into third, the car started shaking. Now the car shakes so much on idle. This all happen last night. I went home, and i checked out the coil packs. They seem to be fine. I was told it could be my spark plugs. So this morning,i replaced the spark plugs and coil packs and the car still shakes a lot on idle and when i drive it. I scanned it, and nothing pops up, no check engine light. My motor mounts seem good. I just recently got my um N/A tune. I feel like the tune is doing this. I have no clue whats the problem. I changed the spark plugs and coil pack for no reason. Also under my exhaust mid pips where the clamps are right after the cats. Water is leaking out. So i thought the gas station i went to, use water in their gas. Gas was low, so i put more gas, and still having the same problem.
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So when I got my car a couple months ago there was this problem where the backup camera wouldn't come on every now and then when I shifted into reverse so I decided to get it fixed under warranty. the dealership said the problem had to do with the whole infotainment system or something so they gave me a whole new center console and navigation screen for some reason but after I got my car back a couple days ago it was working fine up until today where the back up camera won't even come on at all anymore. I've driven the car about 5 different times today and the backup camera never came on once.
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I have a 99 Merc Sable, only 75,000 miles. Car has ran smooth, no issues. Until, I had ran over a blown tire. Pulled gas line off filter. Replaced it. Everything seemed fine. But turns out, I think anyhow this is when this happened. My car started having shifting problem, found problem within a few days. Transmission bottom cooler line came off. I fixed it but sadly was a little too late a week later tranny died. Just had it replaced. Here's where I need experienced minds. After getting my car back 5Miles down as car shifted there was a pull back and engine light came on. I toom back to mechanic owner said my front engine mounts were bad. One of his mechanics told me secretly they are not bad. He ran diagnostic test nothing came back, they test drove it but of course it didnt do anything. As soon as I left work it pulled light came back on. I pulled over looked at engine as it was running. The engine moves as if its rearing up. Best way I can explain it. Is there something they could of broke or didn't put together right to cause this?
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At the airport made a wrong entrance and notice it so fast, therefore, did a quick reverse and shifted back to drive, but the car died on me. It took me a little while to see what is happening and start the engine again, but the cars behind me were not real cooperative.
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I have a 2000 passat v6 with a automatic transmission, I was on the highway yesterday and 2x the car shifted down by itself from 5th to 4th gear. I noticed when I bought the car it had a slight tranny leak which I assumed was from the seal drying up because the previous owner let the car sit for a little bit. The first day I bought the car she hesitated going from 4th to 5th for like 3 seconds but every day after that it has been fine. I have been told by some people to flush it and get new fluid and a filter, and then other people telling me that the tranny fluid is lifetime and if you flush it your going to blow the tranny up.... What should I do, the day it acted up I got to where I was going then the car sat for about 2 hours and on the way home on the interstate it was fine like nothing ever happened. I drove it to work today there and back and again no problem.
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My '98 4.0 has 213k on it and the other day I started the engine and the jeep started shaking like crazy. Eventually the engine quit and refused to turn over so I looked under the hood and quickly discovered the problem, a deteriorated rubber elbow on the left manifold. The elbow connects to a threaded breather type valve in the manifold and has a thin piece of black plastic routing to the purge solenoid next to the left fender/air box.
When I removed the rubber elbow from the manifold the engine eventually turned over and idled fine, I then headed to autozone and found replacements of the same diameter, I cut them down a bit to match the length of the originals. Since its been a while I changed the plugs and wires, coil pack along with cap and rotor while I was at it. I replaced one plug and wire at a time to ensure I didn't mix things up, same goes for the cap. Now the jeep seems to take a few more seconds to get started but once it does it idles fine.
Now when I hit the gas hard the jeep will hesitate and then backfire. If I'm smooth on the gas the jeep drives good, whether city or highway. When coming to a stop the jeep will sometimes buck slightly like it wants to cut but doesn't. The backfire sounds like its coming from the air box and oddly enough, my aftermarket radio no longer plays in the accessory position, probably a separate issue. So far there's been no check engine light.
I really need to keep this jeep for a few more months and I would hate to put big money into at this stage.
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Minor shaking sensation felt in low gear at baseline rpm like a wha wha wha sensation. VWOA said pull both transmissions and see what ya find.
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I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 4x4 ... Automatic transmission sport model
I have a severe shaking at 1500 rpm last gear and a slight shaking at idle doesn't shake when I'm off the gas barely shake when I kick it into higher revs but I than hear piston slap.
I replaced the spark plugs and I have brand new U-joints. Last night I checked all the plug wires and they are all getting spark. But my exhaust is skipping like I'm not firing in a couple cylinders
I checked the rear transmission mount (I'm replacing it). And the Engine mounts look ok but I'll check again today
I've read a ton of forums and they all have different answers so I'm really trying to figure out what is wrong before I spend a bunch of money replacing things that won't fix it!
I've read that it can be my tranny, TC, Harmonic Balancer, Steering Stabilizer, pinions, Tie rods, Steering(over all), IAC, Fuel System, IgnitionSystem.
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My car is 7k short of its drive train warranty expiring. I noticed a rumbling vibration when the transmission shifted between 3-4 gear at approximately 20-25 mph. Took it into the dealer, and their expert rode with me and verified that it indeed was vibrating, but that he had never seen this issue on the 2007 GS350 AWD. He said he would have to check around the country to see if others had this problem. Four days later, he advised me that he was told to flush the transmission 2-3 times and for me to drive it about 1k miles to see if that fixed it. Well, it doesn't do it anymore, but I'm not sure why, or that it won't do it again just after the warranty expires at 70k miles. I certainly don't want to look at a 4-6,000.00 transmission replacement after the warranty expires. The dealer obviously doesn't want to incur the expense either, under warranty. Even though the transmission does not rumble or vibrate anymore, should I ask for the replacement anyway?
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So when I shifted into 2nd gear as I was putting my foot on the leg rest beside the clutch by accident my foot tapped it for a second and it went down a bit. I didn't smell any burning clutch and don't recall the rpms going up. Is this a problem that a did that I am scared....
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Need to identify this noise? After starting the car after sitting overnight or anytime the engine is cold it makes this sound when shifted into gear. You can hear the sound dissipate and eventually go away but it has me worried.
2002 I4 Camry LE 150K
Video : [URL] ....
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Recently purchased this Monte Carlo SS with a bad engine. Picked up a really good engine and it sounds great. Backed the car out of the garage, and when I shifted into drive, the car would hardly move. It felt like it was starting out in high gear. Had code P1860 (Trans converter clutch) set. Car has 150K on it. Suspected bad trans. Just had the trans rebuilt by AAMCO to the tune of $1100.00. Still have the exact same problem. The car will go in reverse just fine, but it won't hardly move forward. The old engine pushed a lot of antifreeze and oil through the exhaust. When I started the new engine, it smoked like a smoke stack for about 20 minutes, but then quit smoking. What am I missing? The trans is full of oil, and all connections are fine.
The Monte Carlo is a 2000, not a 2001.
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First time Lexus and RX350 owner. Not familiar with the new type of shift gear. When I shifted the gear from Park to Reverse straight down instead of moving to the right first, the vehicle would jerk and make a thud sound. Not sure if this would have damaged anything. After I have get used to moving the gear to the right first before shifting down, I would still sometimes have this jerk/thud. But if I do the whole shift movement (shift the right first) real quick then the chance of getting the jerk/thud is much less. Is it a manufacture defect or just I am not doing it properly?
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Ok so I'm having a problem that seems to have been getting worse. 1999 7.3, auto, 4 door, long bed, 6" lift. When I got the truck a while back I had a slight problem where if I was accelerating hard I would hear a clunk when it shifted into 3rd gear. I'm not hard on the truck that often so it took me a while to realize that the noise was the driveshaft hitting the floorboard right at the joint at the transfer case output.
The carrier bearing was flopping around a bit so I replaced that first. No better... kept driving the truck since it was only a problem while being really hard on it. But it's gotten worse so now when I tow (usually not more than 7-8k lbs) I have a bad vibration on takeoff at low speed. If I try to take off from a stop very hard with any load the driveshaft jumps into the floorboard. So I just replaced the transmission mount and checked the motor mounts, no better. Only thing I can figure at this point is axle wrap...?
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So I get in the car to drive back home, and after i start it wont engage gear, PRNDS flashing, cant get the key out, total drama. Called the dealer. I will tow it back to the origin where it came from. What it is. Shift solenoid failure... But f..ck knows with these things. It only took me 4589785115 times to get the key out...
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So yesterday my car was running as fine as it always has. Then today came around...Car started fine, shifted into first and second fine, but when I hit 3rd it started to sputter in the low rpm's. Around 3000 it picks up a bit. This then continued happening through all of the gears. I noticed that the engine light was flashing for a few seconds and then went away completely. It still putters, struggles, and shakes when accelerating in the low rpms but its not throwing any codes. I know there are a few things it could be i.e. vacuum pump, bad coils or plugs, are maybe something more serious (fuel pump maybe?). I'm at a loss, especially since the car is throwing no codes (so there is nothing to scan for). I was hoping vortex could give me somewhere to start on this, I don't have a VAGcom so getting it scanned means $$$ and I want to get a start on the problem before I go that route. Here's some basic info:
Its at 182,XXX miles. Its never thrown any engine light or cel code in the 2 years 40,000+ miles i've owned it. I run 0w 40 eurpean car formula oil through it every 3-5k. I run seafoam through it every 6 months. I'm NOT sure when the last time the coils have been replaced.
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I have a 2001 mk4 golf 1.8T, tonight I was driving and all of the sudden the gear changes started clunking really rough ( it's an automatic) and then it would pulse for power only give it to me at random not when I gave it gas, coming to the next stop sign I pushed the accelerator to go and for the first 3 seconds nothing happened until it jumped in revs spinning tires and shooting me forward, so I shut off all the electronics in my car which seemed to work with the not getting power issue but when I finally got to where I was going it now won't turn over, you turn the key you hear the starter try but that's it it just won't turn over, there's no check engine light and I already have a call into my mechanic.
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I'm bench testing my starter and wanted to make sure that it's working as it should before I install it. The plunger comes out and the gear spins as expected, but it takes a second for the gear to pop back in after I disconnect it. I'm worried that it might get stuck on the flywheel if the return spring isn't working as it should.
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OK, my stock exhaust would rattle when I shifted UP with the DSG, seems to be a fairly common thing. I got the EJ exhaust and it STILL does it on occasion, not as bad. Is there a loose heat shield or something? If I rev the car slowly while driving (not standing still) and get it to red line there is no metallic rattle. If I rev it fast and shift, it rattles
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2015 TSI Transmission Problem... Clicking sound, over the past few weeks clicking has got worse, rough idle, very abrupt gear changes when gearing down, gear gets "stuck" around 2200 revs and jumps back and forth. what do you think the problem is. and no its not dsg. has 5000 miles.
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Ok at waterfest I got a UM ECU/DSG tune with the spark cut option. I now noticed that once in a while, only in regular D mode, there will be a very very aggressive and uncomfortable shift. It only really seems to happen under higher load and form 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th. The car shifts and there is like a double spark cut pop instantaneously after each other. It feels like the car shifted 2 gears and each with a spark cut. I called UM and they said sometimes it can be fixed with a clutch alignment. Car hs 56k mile on it and it was just recently DSG serviced.
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