Golf IV R32 :: Car Restarting Itself While Driving
Feb 3, 2016
I've got a pioneer avic d3 in the car, and for a week or so it was restarting itself while I was driving. Now it doesn't work at all. The screen has power, but is blank. The buttons don't work at all, and there is no sound.
I took it out and tore apart the center console to do some sleuthing, and I found that a ground wire was connected to one of the points right in front of the shift linkage. The other end has a connector, but it wasn't connected to anything.
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My navigation out of no where has been restarting on its own meaning screen goes black and warning comes up again. I have had car since November and it only started happening last week and I have 6k on car. It will actually restart on its own twice and this has occurred 3 times so far.
Now not sure if I am dreaming this but if I shut the car off with NAV screen split with home screen I always remembered it staying that way even when I restarted car. Now however regardless of what I leave it when I restart car always shows full map. I am thinking did they push an update to NAV which is also causing the glitch in it restarting? I haven't brought it dealer since new so I know no one updated manually but I can swear home screen would stay split if I left it that way.
Having issue with NAV restart while driving, I see it was occurring in IS forum but no fix. Also it is very cold but car is garaged and every time I been driving already for a bit, another thing maybe it's my iPhone because it always plugged in when it has occurred.
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I have a 2005 f250 5.4 auto trans and the past few days the truck has been stalling randomly while driving and some times not restarting right away. Now today it stalled a few times. once while driving, once when i sitting in it trying to load up obd2 scanner. I got it home and it started running rough for 2 mins then it would stall out. It did that 3 or 4 times and now it stalled while sitting in drive way and wont start at all. it wont crank. no fuel pump noise any more.
The odometer goes out and just has a bunch of flat lines. I can not get scanner to connect anymore. it never had any codes before when it was stalling. When I could get scanner to work it had 42psi of fuel pressure. battery and starter are good. all the fuses are good and I can hear the pcm relay clicking when I turn the key and swapping relays does nothing. I can hear a very rapid clicking noise from the throttle body area. What that could be? is the pcm fried? what would cause it to fry? how can i test pcm? if get used pcm does dealer have to program it?
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I turn the car off and 1 of 3 things happen.
Nothing and everything is fine.
It restarts itself instantly and everything is reset ( radio stations, gas gauge, MPG info )
I shut the door and start to walk away and it restarts ( and everything in 2 )
Just like number 2, everything just resets ( it looses it's memory) but it doesn't restart.
Or I get in the car and nothing happens at all. I sit there push the power button NOTHING, no lights, no panel lights, no response whatsoever. At this point I usually just wait and keep pushing it until it finally starts. Sometimes if I shut the door hard it will come back to life, but not always. My first thought was the 12v battery, but I ran the checker on the car and it seems fine, I also had it checked at and they said that it was fine.
I feel like the car is possessed or something. It doesn't always happen but today it happened 8 times, and that's just effing annoying.
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I pulled off I40 to check my tires. I was getting some side to side wobble. I didnt see anything wrong and restarting got no power only light was parking led very dim. After a while power was back. I started up to the red triangle. Now I'm sitting in ready mode not wanting to shut down. 4 bars. Torque indicates no error codes
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Occasionally when I start my car my phone won't connect and the only way to get a connection is to restart the car. Trying to connect through the system doesn't work.
Sometimes I have to restart the car several times to get a connection.
The phone is an iPhone 6.
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I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier that is having issues. I had the distributor replaced and the knock sensor. The day I got it home it started having a weird starting issue. It has always started first crank super easy & strong. Runs GREAT.
When the truck is cool it starts right up but, when I've been driving around for a bit and turn it off, if it's a short stop starts right back up, some hesitation. If I stop for 15-45 mins it doesn't want to start. I can crank it all day and it wont start and gives a little kickback, if I crank too much the engine will smoke a bit, spits and sputters when you turn the key off. The longer it sits before I try to start it the worse it gets... around one hour is the worse. - Finally figured out if I try cranking it over several times, turn off the key and wait literally one to two minutes it starts right up super quick and strong just like when it's cool. So random and weird.
No warning lights & Nothing shows up when hooked up to the computer, fuel pump checked out OK.
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So my car is currently getting serviced and getting a new nav screen/system installed.
2014 IS350 F, Having this issue of their screen freezing then restarting?
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I have a '94 Camry that has not been started in a year. I'd like to either see if I can get it running again or donate it somewhere. But I heard recently that the onboard computer in a Camry has to be restarted if it's been idle a certain time. I've tried unsuccessfully to get any life signs when I tried to jump start it. Is this computer issue true?
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I have a 2008 Sante Fe with 165K mileage. At times, not regular, when restarting the car we hear a grinding noise. Immediately we turn the car off and re start, noise goes away. Could this be the starter going bad? Dealership wants 400 to fix.
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My brother has a 2000 Chevy Cavalier, not sure what engine. It killed on him on the freeway last night and we had it towed. It tried to start, it has spark and is getting gas. He said that he had no "check engine light" before it stalled. We are sure it has plenty of gas in the tank.
After the tow, when we pulled the key out of the ignition, EVERY stratis light stayed on (Emergency Brake, check engine, ABS, oil ,etc..) We checked to be sure the ignition WAS in the off position and tried the key numerous times, turning it to on or acc, then to off and pulling the key. Still the statis lights stayed on after pulling the key.
I'm thinking the Ignition switch is bad. Also, when we were turning it over....I think it felt a little rough....like slightly out of time. But then It's not my car, so I'm not familiar with how it sounds starting.I'm pretty good with cars and engines, and do most of my own work, but this has me stumped.
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My 2001 Volvo S60 2.4T 148,000 miles starts up fine in the winter and in the morning's in the summer. However, if its 85 degrees or above in the summer and the car is warmed up and I'm running errands, stopping and restarting the engine. The car will crank and sputter before it starts or it will not start. These are the dealers notes from last year: RPM signal not good. Checked for relevant codes none found. Tested fuel pressure it is OK. Found when problem exists the tach bounces and the RPM sensor signal is erratic. Needless to say I declined the extra $300 to pay for more diagnostics. When the problem reoccurred this year I took it to my local Volvo tech and they replaced the RPM sensor at the cost of $180 for parts and labor.
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I have a 2004 Phaeton which has been having multiple problems with error codes. I keep getting Level Fault Work Shop. When this code comes on the ABS and EPS also fail and can only be reset by restarting the car. My VW dealer is having significant trouble finding the problem. Thus are they have repalaced the batteries, and the control module for the ABS. I think an option could be the battery control module.
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1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager - all the gauges tach, speedo, fuel, etc., do not function on a restart after about a drive of 20 miles or so. Where I should start looking?
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On the way I get a msg saying that there was a gear fault. Not sure what it is and I can not find anything using the search. What this may be. After restarting the egg, the message has gone away.
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so I just got a 2014 Passat S (with NAV) and I'm having some Bluetooth auto connection issues - only when I start my car to let it warm up for a few mins while I run back inside (I live in New England and leave the house at 5am when it's 5-10 degrees out). My fiance's Santa fe keeps an option on the screen that reads "could not connect to phone, re-try? Yes or No" and you can click yes and she's instantly connected. When I start my car to warm up for a few mins I've tried manually doing it when I get in the car under "paired devices" but it fails every time. I want to get a remote starter but I don't want to turn the car off then on again every time so my phone will connect. I have to turn the car off then turn it on and it will instantly connect. When I'm just getting in and going it's no problem.
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I have a 2011 5.0 screw with 3.73 gears. Today my wife has the truck to haul stuff for her craft show. She calls and says the truck keeps stalling, like she had to keep restarting the truck 3-4 times to back up 10 feet. The dealership we bought it from is going to pick it up and give us another truck to use while they figure it out.
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I bought a 2008 Santa Fe last September, since around 2 weeks after I bought it the engine management light has been coming on intermittently. First it then after a few starts it goes off, only to come on again a few days later. Basically dealership hasn't got a clue what's causing it and thus far they've:
Replaced the DPF
Replaced the temp sensors
Replaced injector sleeves
Cleaned the EGR
DPF was changed after they couldn't force regen.
Now, it mainly comes on when I've got cruise control on, although the way I turn it on is bizarre, I have to hold down the on/off and cancel buttons for 10 seconds before it turns on.
Basically I am now running out of solutions as are the dealers, they can't replicate the problem ( although they haven't tried with the cruise)...
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Chevy Tahoe LS 2002: My electrochromic automatic dimming mirrors suddenly do not turn ON when restarting the vehicle. I can turn them ON by pressing the button on the mirror for 6 seconds, but when I turn off the vehicle and restart, they are OFF again. How do I set them so they will be turned ON when I start the vehicle, as used to be the case?
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I bought a new Holley 600 CFM 4150 with electric choke for my 79 ford F 250 with 400 engine. If I start the truck cold the choke works as it should and after driving 10 or so minutes it runs fine off choke. When I restart the truck after stopping for gas or food it goes back on high idle even with the engine temp at 180 degrees. Should it go on high idle even on a hot day fully warmed up every time i start it? I don't remember my last 600 doing it.
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It was raining and had the AC on for the first time, epc light came on while I was driving. Went into a store then when I started back up the one turn start didn't work.. drove for five minutes and Epc light went off and evry things fine...I have APR stage 1 and carbonio intake for 1,000 miles...
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