Golf IV R32 :: Car Bogs Down On Throttle
Sep 6, 2010
With normal driving or semi spirited, once i change gears the car seems to bog down initially then pick up slowly but then it seems fine, but if I am actually getting on it threw the gears it doesn't seem to happen. its very noticeable sense the throttle response is now and it used to be great. If I let off the gas then get back on it at a lower rpm it seems to happen as well. it just feels like it dips down then picks up. i first noticed it when i down shifted to 5th the car seemed to hiccup and then went on, now its seems to be in every gear, I am not getting any codes or lights what so ever and the car drives fine other than that....
Mods: C2 flash, eip exhaust, intake.
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The fuel pump has just been replaced with no change. Exhaust has been unbolted before converter to rule out catalytic converter. It ran the same.
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1986 Ranger 2.3 inline 4
I just recently bought an 86 Ranger from a friend. It had recently stopped working and had no desire to fix it. So here I am. The truck will sit in park and rev all day long, once its in drive it idols fine and moves its self down the street. The problem occurs when I apply throttle. It begins to bog down and I cannot get past 20mph. I have replaced the fuel regulator and also I took the tank down and replaced the fuel pump. The fuel filter is two months old, and the throttle response sensor is two weeks old.
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I have a '99 passat 1.8t Tiptronic. 106,000 miles. Recently I've been getting a bad hesitation when accelerating from a stop. At half throttle the car kinda bogs down and hesitates then as the rpms get higher it seems to clear out and accelerate smoother. At the same time the car doesn't have the same sack it used to. I checked he plugs, found them very fouled. Replaced them and the problem got a little better, but definitely still there. There has to be a reason the plugs fouled. There is no CEL so I don't really know what to check first.
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Back in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
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After driving my car for about ~15 miles it bogs, throttle doesn't respond, if anything makes it worse. And then she dies. I've cleaned my MAF sensor and checked for spark, cleaned the connectors.
The only symptoms it seems to have is-when my A/C is on, the idle will jump from ~1000 RPMs to 700RPMs to 900RPMS etc. Its all over the place every few seconds.-bad gas mileage
My culprits right now are maybe -the fuel filter getting clogged up, -or the fuel pump overheating? (even with a full tank) -or my O2 sensors. Do O2's overheat? I feel like it could be that, given the horrible gas mileage I'm getting.
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I have an 03 Ranger 4.0 4x4 5 speed. It has no power, can't give throttle or it bogs real bad. Baro shows 18in vac with KOEO. When running it has 15in vac. Replaced MAF, fuel pump, and fuel filter.
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1999 Outback 2.5, idles fine but bogs or loss of power when stepping on throttle. Can "feather" or tease to get going and will hold rpm once it gets there...
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So Im not sure if this is normal or not. When I try to launch my car (esp off) at around 3.5-4, then when i drop it the car is fine for a second then the awd light comes on and the car acts like its not getting gas or it bogs down until the wheels catch again. hopefully this makes sense. Why its doing this.
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I have an r32 mk V, runs great when its cool. I've been having a hot start issue that makes my car bog out. recently replaced the fuel pump and filter. had the dealership change O2 sensor and still having the same issue.
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Ok so this one is pretty hard to explain. I was driving home from school, doing about 55 in fifth gear. Out of no where, my car started to bog very hard and slow down. I pulled into a lot and as I was in the entrance of the lot the car haulted itself but stayed on. I say there for about a minute, then put it in 1st and drove into a parking spot. I stayed there for a little, then drove home in the right lane and it seems to be back to normal. I also did a few test pulls and it felt a little laggy but that might just be in my head. It's a 2012 golf r, 37k miles with just an EVOMs intake. Stock otherwise. What this could be? Don't want to get stuck on the highway somewhere if this happens again.
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Alright I drive a 05 1.8t with 68k original miles.. nder a full load my car bogs and hesitates. also my turbo will stop spooling and my boost gauge will go from 10 pounds to about 4 and i will have to let go of the gas and push down again for my turbo to spool.. What this could be I can't figure it out..
Here is my car.....
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My friend has 2000 12v vr6 auto and recently he experienced his car bogging under acceleration. He had the plugs and wires recently done to solve the problem and the problem went away for a day and has since returned. I scanned it and here are the codes that its threw. After doing some research i'm thinking its the coil pack, since it was pretty foggy/damp today (when the problem started again).
17626.p1218 - fuel injector for cylinder 6 (N84): short to b+
16690.p0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
16684.p0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
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1993 Golf GL III, automatic: Engine size: 2.0 Date on door 5/1993
I have an intermittent problem, in the morning my car will start fine, idle fine and drive well for about six blocks, but then it suddenly bogs down and goes sluggish like it is not getting gas or not firing correctly. It has not stalled completely, it just bogs down and giving it gas does not do much. I can barely coax the car to my destination about a mile away.
The weird part: A few hours later when I leave this location my car runs fine, starts fine, drives fine and I have no problems the rest of the day. Thus, I only have this problem in the morning, otherwise the car runs great.
Question: Could there be a sensor that is reading incorrectly in the morning, but is fine after it warms up? Perhaps the sensor is messing up the air/gas mixture.
NOTE: My check engine light is on, but I have not figured out how to pull the codes. In the middle console, above the ash tray behind two unused button panels, I have two diagnostic connectors, one black and one white (see photo). I think they may be 2x2 connectors, perhaps OBD1, but I am not sure.
* I have heard a jumper cable can be used to get the codes to blink, but I have not found any documentation to confirm that for this year and model.
* I am also not sure if an OBD2 scanner could read this codes if I use an 16 pin adapter.
Pull codes, either using a jumper or scanner, My local auto parts stores will not pull the codes.
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I don't see anything in my 2010 owners manual about the air cond compressor cutting off under throttle. Yet on my 2007 Audi, it stated such in the owners manual. I'm wondering if it still has this excellent feature in the base Golf.
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So after replacing the entire clutch assembly, coil packs, plugs,valve cover gasket, thermostat housing, blah blah blah basically a tons of new parts. I get her up and running and notice my heat only works when under throttle...yup water pump...but wait what's that milky substance under the valve cover cap now never ran hot but appears to have blown the head gasket as well. Doing compression test this weekend..
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Where to find this wiring diagram? I was getting hesitation in my throttle and the EPC light kept going on.. So I did some looking and found that 2 wires pulled out of the plug in the cowl harness... There are like 5 plugs under there, and these 2 wires were pulled clean.. So I cant tell which one goes to which... I know its definitely part of the 4 wires going to my pedal...
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My accelerator is very "slowpoke", anything I can do?
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So driving home from work today and got on the throttle a little hard going uphill in the highway when the EPC light came on. I was only at at 4.5-5k rpm and the engine didn't totally cut out it just shuttered if I hit the gas. I pulled off turned the car off and when I started it again the light was off and car drove fine.
2015 Golf Sport SE 1.8T, APR Stage 2, APR downpipe, APR Carbon Fiber Intake, Remus Cat Back Exhaust Chrome Tips, LED license plate/rear/turn/brake lights
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I am leaving from a meeting with my business partner and taking a left turn at about 10mph and very light throttle due to a rough road. All of the sudden I've got nothing. No throttle response and my car starts chugging bad. Then I see the EPC light on. I shut the car off as it sounds like I have only 2 cyls firing. start her back up and boom, normal again. No power loss, no lights, nothing. I immediately thought water pump. not the case though obviously. From what I can tell the EPC will come on for multi misfires. but for it to come on that suddenly for no apparent reason and then just be fine when I shut off and restart, I would assume this may be an ecu or coil issue.
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Whenever I try to brake boost my GTI the throttle seems to cut out. is this some kind of safety feature where brakes will dominate throttle when both are depressed?
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