I am going to install a BBK on the front of my car and I was wondering if I can take the larger front brakes and move them to the back of the car.
If not, any good set of drilled or slotted rotors for the rear brakes?
I jacked up both front wheels and I can't move them at all. I was able to get the car into neutral and still they won't move. emergency brake off as well (even though that only stops the rear wheel) Could the disc brakes be too tight or could they just be on all the time somehow? I had noticed that when driving, it felt like the brakes were on. This feeling was especially evident when taking my foot off the gas pedal to glide on flat ground, and the car would slow down faster than I thought it should. Also notice a huge drop in MPGs. I know the car is FWD, so maybe there is supposed to be resistance but I can barely get either wheel to turn more than an inch or two.
View 12 RepliesMy boyfriend ( a mechanic) has a 94 Lexus car for me to use how ever it has problems. It has rear brakes locking( they were changed) and the car freezes won't move in anyway. Every time when it's driven 3-4 miles it freezes steering locks in place won't move. What can be done?
View 2 RepliesSo tonight I got the chance to install my H&R Rear sway bar on my car...let me start off by saying I was lucky enough to have a lift, air tools, all the correct tools, etc...now the frustrating part...i opened the box saw the bar and new bushings, figured this should be 100% straight forward 10 min job... the old bar came out in about 3 minutes...then I got the new bushings on the H&R Bar and went to put the factory brackets on...they wouldn't fit even close. Luckily I had a press so I pressed them on. Once I got the bar in the car I got the two top bolts started and could not for the life of me get the bottom two...its like they were 1/4in to low... Was I missing parts from H&R? also the factory caps/brackets seemed to sit off to the side of the new H&R bushings and there was no way to line them up straight, but I finally got everything on there..
View 18 RepliesI use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
View 14 RepliesI installed my LEDs put in the fog trigger wire, did the vag com, and on my dash the rear fog icon pops up. BUT no rear fog, I still have a bulb out message as-well. I've triple checked all of my wiring today, and did not see anything wrong. I've tried replacing the bulb.
View 17 RepliesJust installed a set of euro tails with rear fog (non-LED). I also have front fogs on my car. I used the following VDCS changes in Central Electronics to activate the rear fog:
Byte 3 - Bit 1 set to 1 (1 rear fog light)
Byte 3 - Bit 2 set to 1 (1 reverse driving light)
Byte 4 - Bit 6 set to 0 (Rear fog deactivated)
Byte 18 - Bit 3 set to 1 (Cold diagnose rear fog lights active)
All lights work correctly, but I still get bulb out warnings for all four fog/reverse lights, i.e.
Front Left Fog
Front Right Fog
Rear Left Fog
Rear Right Reverse
I have cleared all CECM errors and the warning light disappears, but as soon as the fog lights are used, it comes back.
I am installing VWR Springs to replace worn stock components on my mk6 R. It appears that the previous owner slammed the car, and removed the "nipple" that holds the rear spring in place from the top. Both upper and lower spring isolators were present.
I am trying to find a name or part number for this unknown "nipple". I tried some combinations, such as "rear spring cap" and "rear spring centering guide". It looks like it would screw into the body, right above the springs themselves.
Installed the euroswitch yesterday because I want the parking lights to work in the front. All the lights work except for the front parking! In the second click I have the rear but no front. Am I missing something or do I have a bad euroswitch?
View 12 RepliesI just received both items today.. The CF spoiler seems a little bit twisted...but no big deal, I can bend it a little bit to fit...
How to install that spoiler? using 3M tape only? and also I cannot push the original side marker out...I pushed so hard and it didn't pop out...
Check brakes light came on at 46000 miles the other day. Not really sure what replacement brake rotors and pads to put on? Should I go with OEM or aftermarket? put on rotors and pads from Hawk? and how do you like them? Are aftermarket better than OEM parts?(longer lasting, less dust, ect..)
View 12 RepliesI'm not sure if this is the proper operation of the disc brakes because all my cars in the past were front disc and rear drum. A search turned up nothing useful so here I am.
To me, the sensation I'm having is the rear brakes are activating before the front. I sense the rear going down before the front. I don't hear any squealing or grinding. I also don't feel any vibration while braking. Perhaps it's a sensory illusion? Or is this the normal operation of disc brakes?
How to remove/install a reflector on the right rear side of the 'lower' rear bumper? I don't see any screws. So, can I pop it out with a screwdriver? Or, is it attached from the inside?
View 2 RepliesSo when I got this truck everything on the brakes were messed up. So long story short I got a new master cylinder new pads and all lines are bled. Now this hole time my ABS light has been on so I looked at all the sensors and i found one connector that goes to the rear axle but it has no where to plug into. But I also found some writing on the axle which tells me that is a different axle and may not have had ABS set up. But I am not sure. Now the problem I am having is when I hit the breaks i don't have much bite but if i push on them harder the rear will lock up and the front brakes are biting just a little like 50% power. So how can I get more stopping power to the front pads ? And if its that unconnected sensor is there anyway i can loop in out of the system ?.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
I have a 2007 Prius with 130,000 miles on it. I plan to trade in about a year, maybe a little less. I have noticed my brakes grabbing. My mechanic says that the front brakes are sort of grinding and the rear brakes are grabbing. Both are worn, the rear brakes to about 30%, front brakes to 60%. They also say they will probably last out the year. Should I put new brakes on to be safe and to be able to sell the car with new brakes, or should I just wait it out and trade it in with worn brakes?
View 6 RepliesI installed led bulbs for the parking lights and the vsc/vsc off lights came on, also when i tap the brakes it beeps and the abs and brake light comes on for a few seconds.
View 2 RepliesI have a '13 GTI Autobahn Edition...
40K miles on it, and the rear brakes are squeaking.
I have some new rotors and pads picked out, but i dont know if i have the Bosch or the Girling rear calipers...
Truck is 2007 6.0L 4 door F-250 FX4
So this started after some High water encounters around my area. All freshwater. Went to the store and then i notice the truck pulling Left and got home and checked brake temps and the driver front and rear were over 400*F passenger side was 150* or less. No trailer no load in the bed. I decided to clean everything. Pads are worn but still have life.
Rotors showed some signs of where the pad is dragging Not bad though just a small area close to the top hat. I cleaned pads, carriage, and clips and reinstalled everything with some anti seize on the edges of the pads where the clips are and at the same spots on the carriage.
Thought it was ok but the after more water and a day or two sitting the same thing happened again. It is only the drivers side and it's both front and rear. I am stumped on this one. Two calipers going bad at once? I need to tow a boat on Monday So I have got to fix this.
What would cause this? The brakes work fine until you get into that range of brake pressure in which the abs wants to kick in. The brakes then lock up(may be only front driver), the pedal sinks to the floor, and don't disengage until the car is at a complete stop. It does this with esp on or off.
The previous owner changed a front wheel sensor and bled the brakes. The abs module fuse under the battery cover was melted but not blown.
VCDS shows no codes. I did not do output test on pump, didn't have my laptop with me.
Abs pump bad?
Mc?
Servo?
Caliper?
Brake line?
I bought this car 2 weeks ago and the previous owner failed to let me know about the problem and it happened to me a mile down the road after purchasing the car. I started to notice a lot more because of the rain and snow recently. It's definitely an uneasy feeling. I really don't wanna drive the car till it's sorted.
Actually this started occurring at around 10k miles and I find it odd this would happen this early. It seems to happen more often on cold days and after a couple stops its gone. Why is this? I have heard of premature brake where on these cars and that braking power is biased towards the back under normal braking. I really do not how there is reduced brake dive using the brakes this way but its a vw. Is it just the stock pads that are bad?
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