Golf IV R32 :: CEL Came On And Off Consistently
Dec 9, 2011
A couple weeks ago I got a check engine light for the first time on my R, but before I could take it somewhere to get the code pulled, it went out on me. So I figure if it aint broke dont fix it. (FYI I have the flapper valve mod with the switch installed.)
Over the next few days the light would go on and off about once each time I drove it to work (about 45 min), and it seems to be associated with the flapper switch. The strange thing is that the light only comes on when I have been driving in "stock" mode for a while. Every time I leave the flapper open the light goes out after a while and seems to stay out.
I know "just leave the flapper open all the time!" which is what I've basically been doing, but still curious about what could be tripping the system.
Here's a pic...
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
A few days ago I changed my oil and decided to throw in a can of sea foam with a fresh tank of gas. I live literally 100ft from a gas station so I poured the bottle of sea foam in my tank while on empty and then immediately drove over and filled up my car. Right after that my car was bouncing from 500-600 rpms consistently at idle...I gathered it did not mix well and was running mainly on the sea foam. After a day or so of really driving the car that issue had stopped and it was idling/driving normal.
Fast forward a few days to today and all of a sudden my CEL comes on. Also, when I come to a stop after a long drive my car decides to jump up to a 1200rpm idle. I let it sit there for a good 2-3 minutes and it will not come down. I've noticed before that if I blip the throttle a tiny bit it will get it to drop to its normal idle, but that is not working for this. Do you think all of this originates from running that sea foam or could it be a completely different issue? I just turned 62k miles and haven't had a single problem before this. It wont be until later this week when I can plug it in and check to see what codes it is throwing..
View 3 Replies
Ok so my 2002 gti is having some boost problems... Instead of hitting boost consistently the boost is fluctuating for example hitting 12 psi then 15 psi and it just hits and bounces back to 0. what could be problem I was thinking bad downpipe, bad waste gate, or bad n75 valve.
View 6 Replies
There's been a reoccurring squeak and click coming from my passenger side for a while now recently it has been a lot more consistent. For the longest while I'd thought it was my springs/swaybar or something generally just not being tight. Suffice to say I was surprised when I jacked up the front of my car to do an oil change today and happened to catch a glance to the rear while working under there. One of the four subframe bolts in the rear (passenger side, closest to the rear of car, not the one next to the control arms) is apparently no longer doing it's job.
The subframe was hanging free of the body there as though no bolt was there, but upon inspecting the bolt in the subframe itself it is torques to spec (74 lb/ft). So whatever it should be attaching to up in the car is apparently no longer doing it and if I feel around the back of the subframe and rubber bushing I can feel a nut that I suppose should be up in car to accept the thread of the bolt. The hole above the frame doesn't appear broken or deformed, what gives? I've never torques this bolt or removed it, I can only assume the damage was done to it long ago and has just been getting worse ( I've only had the car for a year now). Is there so kind of rivnut type action that I can insert up into the hole, do I need the dealer to fix this for me?
View 17 Replies
I have a 2004 prius with 149k on it and can't seem to break into the 40 mpg range. I live in an area with some hills, but nothing too crazy. I have even had trips of 60+ miles on pretty flat freeways/highways/roads and have only hit 38 mpg driving with a very light foot, coasting down hills, coasting to stop lights and using cruise control. I have tried keeping my speeds low and just cant get great gas mileage. I am not sure what else to try.
In the past few weeks I have had the oil, transaxle and inverter coolant changed and the water pump was changed 15k ago. I also had the spark plugs changed, air filter and have new tires.
btw, I bought the car used a few months back and have been getting the same mileage since I got it. I have not noticed any improvement from any of the maintenance I have done.
2001 Lexus IS300. I got 17mpg with HARD driving
View 19 Replies
92 PA, 134,000 miles
I'm constantly getting a 'Code 41' and now my fuel economy is almost 100 miles less than usual on a full tank. I was wondering what could be causing the decrease of fuel economy?
Also, direct me to the location of the cam sensor and the directions for replacing. I've tried the AutoZone site to locate it but it was difficult to decipher.
View 14 Replies
I drive a 2000 Isuzu Trooper. About 3 weeks ago my oil light came on while driving. I immediately stopped, checked my oil, then had my car towed to the shop, worried that I had lost oil pressure. Mechanic couldn't find anything wrong--oil was full, pressure is fine. He couldn't even get the light to come on once my car was at the shop. I drove home, and the light came on later during my drive. Knowing everything was okay, I continued.
I brought my car in again today since the light has been consistently coming on since then (which includes constantly turning on/off, flickering, dimming, brightening). He replaced my oil sending unit. I drive away today, and the light hasn't come on yet.
However, I just realized that it also isn't showing when I first turn my key and do a light check. I'm kind of frustrated with him (and also myself) that he or I didn't realize that it wasn't coming on for the light check, and instead just called it good since it wasn't coming on while driving. What could be going on?
View 3 Replies
The VSC dash light that's been consistently illuminating the past couple of weeks. The light never tripped prior to the car's battery dying. When the battery died, and the car wouldn't start, I disconnected the negative terminal, and charged the battery. Upon charging, the car started, but that is when the VSC light started illuminating.
I have an OBD II reader (craftsman) and saw that there was a failure to start code which was probably when I tried to start the car with the weak battery. There are other readiness codes (which I will have to get from my phone if you guys think they may be relevant). I cleared the failure to start code, but the light is still illuminated.
Specs: 2010 ES 350, ~68,000 miles
View 1 Replies
My 2008 Prius has a dash that won't light up consistently. Also won't turn off until you hold the Start button for about 10 seconds. I found out my problems were a result of a bad 12v battery. So I changed it and the problem continues. Took the battery out and it tests fine. What else could be the problem and how can I fix it.
View 4 Replies
I've had a noise coming from my rear end since I got the car and usually it stayed consistently bad. A year or more ago (I barely ever drive this car) I had the fluid changed in the differential, and that made the noise significantly better barely noticeable at all. Now, however, the noise is back and seemingly worse than ever. It's a low pitched grumbling noise almost a grinding and really only does it when I reverse or am turning one way or the other. Since this is such a high performance car, I'm worried the rear end is just going to blow out on me one day. What might be going on and what's causing the noise? Also, there's no play In the drive shaft for it to be a U-joint or anything.
2005 Pontiac GTO with a 6.0 L LS2 engine and a T-56 6 speed manual transmission.....
View 4 Replies
I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey. It consistently, randomly skips during acceleration. Have brought it to Honda and they said nothing is findable. Another mechanic tried to sell me an engine mount, stating that this was the cause. At this point, brought it to Honda to have this verified. They scoffed and said the guy was nuts and that my engine mount was fine.
As for the skipping, the only other way I can describe the feeling is like tires spinning on ice, but without the sound of spinning tires, just that jumping over ice feeling. It happens when I accelerate from a stop, or even while I'm on the highway, as I go from a steady speed to an increased speed. It sounds like a jump in the engine.
I keep thinking TRANSMISSION! But as I've said, I have brought it to two mechanics with no answer! VERY FRUSTRATING. The skipping has been going on randomly for years.
Also, the D and engine light started over the summer, behaving consistently randomly, usually a day after I have pumped gas. It then shuts off on its own after some random amount of time. Honda reset the computer panel and denied any problems. I'm not surprised, and yet I am.
On a separate note, I was an idiot and drove on hot tar! I wasn't paying attention to the tar trucks. Did I ruin my tires?!
View 2 Replies
I have had some issues with my 2000 Honda civic. I have had consistent issues with my car getting hot. I have changed the thermostat, temp sender, O2 sensor, spark plugs and wires, fan relay, Air filter, Oil filter and fuel filter. I have also installed a toggle switch all within the last 9-12 months. My heating issues seem to be very random, when I changed some parts out it seems to do good for a bit but then randomly heats up and fast usually when I am idling. I have had 3 mechanics look at my car to work with the replacement of parts yet even they are puzzled with the issue as the car has been very well taken car of for it's age but had so many new parts installed in such a short time. On top of that I have noticed my gas mileage drop again, I noticed this before I had changed the temp sender but it went away for some time. The MPG has had a significant drop the past while and as you can imagine does not good for the pocket book when you are consistently filling the tank and replacing parts.
View 7 Replies
Have a Hyundai accent 2000 manual. The vehicle inconsistently stalls while driving. One day it will drive all day without stopping. The next it will stall while driving 10 or more times.
I`ll pull over, turn ignition off. Turn the key 1-2 times. It starts. Drive sometimes 5-10 minutes will stall again, sometimes will stall an hour later. Some days not at all.
What I should be checking and how to go about it. Have the car booked in to get it put on the computer, but would rather do it myself especially if its just a sensor that needs replacing.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2008 Prius and my car consistently tops out just under 40 MPG - I've never had a tank last over 325 miles. Seems like it's somewhat below the average.
View 8 Replies
My wife's explorer has developed a misfire on cylinder 3&4 consistently. I did have cylinder 2 misfire once. But have not had it come back. The explorer is a 2006 4.6 limited with 130000 miles. Originally it was misfiring on cylinder 3. So I swapped the coil packs between 2&3. Cleared the codes. Still got a cylinder 3 misfire. So I went and bought new plugs for it. Cleared the codes. Still misfire on cylinder 3. Swapped injectors 3&1.
I took it out and romped on it and now I get cylinder 3&4 consistently misfiring. Now I got me to thinking that the only side that is misfiring is the pass side. I was going to swap o2 sensors but couldn't get the driver side out so I went and bought a new o2 upstream for the passenger side. Still get 3&4 misfire. Thought it might be fuel related so I pulled the filter. It was kinda tough to blow through so I put a new fuel filter in it. How the hell can I check the fuel pressure without a fuel fitting? I am now thinking it might be fuel pump, plugged cat, or low compression
View 11 Replies
2004 ford ranger edge 3.0 misfires. It does it consistently. The check engine light stays on all the time, but flashes when idling. I have put it on a code reader and it said misfire on cylinders 1 and 2 I believe. I have changed the coil pack and CPS also. It has been doing this for some time now. It doesn't have any problems stalling out or starting up just misfires bad while running. Oh, and you can also smell fuel while your idling pretty strong. And I have also replaced the plugs and wires.
View 6 Replies
Just got the car back from the dealer. I had the issue last summer, about this time as well. Sunroof started activating the pinch protection consistently. Took in, re-lubed tracks, re-set timing. [URL] ....
View 2 Replies
I was wondering if there may perhaps be a more conventional approach to getting the blower fan motor for the AC/Heat in my 1990 Mazda to work consistently - other than whacking it with my hand or foot? Is there an easy fix for this?
View 5 Replies
My parents have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix. The blower that controls the a/c and the heater does not work consistently. It just works when "the spirit moves it." I took it to a mechanic today. They didn't even look at the car. They just went by my description of the "symptoms" of the car. According to the place I went, it needs the whole nine yards (naturally). How could they tell what was wrong without examining the car?!
View 8 Replies
I would like to find out why my car is misfiring before throwing parts at it. I have a basic level of mechanics and have checked a few things before posting here, which may or may not have ruled out some possibilities.
The problem: I have been consistently getting P0301 and P0304 but only happens sometimes, while other times there is no check engine light. I first checked the ignition coil, right side of it, that controls cylinders 1 and 4. Did resistance test, measured for voltage, and checked the wires for continuity to the connector, with everything coming out good. I know a few must have had issues with the cheap pigtail connector like me so I went and changed that but still got the misfire codes. I then put in an older known to be good working coil but no change.
After that, I removed spark plugs 1 and 4 and put them where 2 and 3 go but still got the same codes P0301 and P0304.
A friend who is a mechanic for Nissan checked the spark and wires, saying they were fine. He then checked the injectors and noticed that injector 1 didn't increase in ticking sound when RPM increased. He said I should replace injectors 1 and 4 to see if that changes anything or switch injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the codes at least change. I removed them all, got two of them from junkyard just in case, made my own tool where I pumped straight fuel injector cleaner through each of them with pumped air, and put the two from junkyard on cylinders 1 and 4. I still got the same codes so then I switched injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3, which didn't change the codes.
I was told by another local mechanic shop that it's definitely the coil but I knew it wasn't.
Other info: I am not sure it would matter when dealing with a misfire but I borrowed a code scanner and saw that the Long Term Fuel Trim was -7%. I researched that and it means that the car is running rich and the computer is being told that it needs to run lean. I am not sure that this would make only two of the cylinders misfire and the freeze data shows that same negative LTFT for when the P0301 happened. I also know that there is an air leak at the gasket where the front cat connects to the flex pipe/rear cat. I have also gotten a rear downstream 02 sensor code once within the past month but it hasn't come back.
Would the LTFT being lean have anything to do with the misfires? Would the gasket between the two cats cause the 02 sensor to get a faulty reading? If so, would the downstream 02 sensor be able to adjust to a lean fuel mix? What else should I check?
View 40 Replies
I travel on the highway frequently and when I am cruising at 115-120 km/h my gear consistently drops from 6th gear to 5th gear then back to 6th gear. I am not pressing hard on the gas just keeping it at a normal pressure. This is the 2016 Hyundai Santa Fe brand new only 6500km. I brought it to the dealership twice already and they found nothing wrong. Saying there are no error codes when scanned and when they drive it nothing happens.
On my second visit I showed them a video of what is happening. It was two minutes long and within the two minutes my gear down shifted 3 times. So you can imagine when I am long driving how many times this happens. In order to get around it I have to shift to tiptronic and leave it on 6 gear so I don't get this down shifting incident.
View 29 Replies
