So when I pull my E-brake the BRAKE light is hit or miss. Sometimes it goes on then flickers for a bit then shuts off, sometimes it stays on, and sometimes it doesn't come on at all. The owners manual says it's an electrical issue.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Scion TC. Sometimes the dashboard brake warning light will turn on for a few seconds and then goes off. It happens after the brake is pressed at a traffic light or stop sign, a second or two after releasing the brake pedal and accelerating. The sometime the dashboard brake warning light will switch on for a few seconds. It seems to occur more often when the outside temperature is cold. Also when the car is cold. I had a oil change and lube and they said the brake fluid level was ok.
View 8 RepliesI found that my headlight has a tendency to flicker, it happens more when I'm accelerating. This morning I had a "check headlights" in the information column right after start-up. Took it to the dealership. Nothing was found, no stored codes?
View 8 RepliesEvery morning when i leave to work my brake light begins to turn on, when i go over a bump or brake it shuts off. But only happens in the mornings when my car sits over night or long periods of time . What is the cause of this and how can it be replaced?
View 7 RepliesFor those of you who have not purchased a new car for a while and are considering doing so in the near future I want to share the recent service experience I had for my 2015 Jeep Cherokee. I don't know if my experience was typical but I suspect it is.
I took my Jeep to the dealer for a routine service (LOF and tire rotation). The total time at the dealer was about 4 hours. Of that time, about 2 1/2 or 3 hours was spent in updating the software for the various computers. It had never occurred to me that computers were that pervasive in new cars.
Attendant to that, my Jeep has the 3.2L V6 engine, which comes with start/stop technology (when you stop at a stop light the engine shuts off and restarts when you take your foot off the brake). After the service was completed I noticed the start/stop function had stopped working. I contacted the dealer. The customer service representative spoke with the service technician, who contacted Chrysler. It seems that all of the software updates (there were a total of 6 of them) may take 3-7 days to become fully integrated into the system. I was told to wait a few days to see if the problem rectified. Sure enough, when I drove it today it had.
I go my R32 calipers powder coated, I rebuilt the err m and got 20th rears while I was at it.
I did make a noob mistake and pressed the brake pedal to try to manually bleed my rear brakes (used a vacuum pump prior) then I remembered my front calipers were off.I might have pressed it 3-4 times.I re-bled all 4 corners, once all 4 calipers were on, and did so until I was sure there was no air.I read in a few places that our rear calipers bleed because the bleeder screw isnt at the high point, which makes sense. So Im wondering if this is what I'm experiencing or is there something, via VAGCOM, I have over looked?
This morning, during a routine drive to work in my 2007 Toyota Prius, my instrument panel lit up with the brake light and ABS light. The car braked normally, although when I tested the anti-lock brakes in a parking lot, the car slid and the ABS did not engage. I brought it to a shop - they ran a diagnostic and came up with a Malfunction of the Hydraulic System - right rear. They said I need to take it to a dealer for repairs. This car has cost me a lot in repairs over the last year...and with 170,000 miles, I'm not willing to put in a lot more.
View 3 RepliesIn my one-owner purchased-new 2005 Prius w/ 74K miles and w/ no maintenance/accident history other than doing all scheduled maintenances at Toyota Dealers along w/ recalls applicable at each time (other than we had Toyota replace the 12V battery last year just because I knew it would die at some point anyway and I don't like pushing my luck; I'm not 100% certain if there's been a recall on any water pump for this car and if so, don't believe the dealer has mentioned it), I have the following indicators which appeared all at once while I was driving along at around 45 MPH in no unusual circumstances (80F, dry afternoon, about 30 minutes into a trip of mixed speeds, no loads in the vehicle, no effect on the car while driving):
From Left to Right on the display:
1) Red Triangle - Master Warning Light
2) Orange (Symbol)CHECK - Malfunction Indicator Lamp
3) Orange (!) - Brake Warning Light (but it didn't highlight the word 'Brake' in red)
4) Orange VSC - Vehicle Stability Control Warning Light
On the Screen:
Orange Car w/ the ! symbol - Hybrid System Warning Light
We immediately aimed for the house (about 5 miles away); the car drove perfectly fine, with the engine stopping and starting at lights as needed, with speeds going from the 55MPH we were traveling at the time of the alarms down to 0 and back up thru 35/45 MPH and such per normal off-interstate driving. The battery currently shows all the blue bars, and the engine and hybrid systems showed charge/discharge as usual as we drove. There was no discernible change in the driving reaction of the car to brake, steering, accelerator, etc.
I have this problem of my in dash cluster flickers and dims at the same time? Also the green lights on indicator flickers and disappears? Took it to the Dealer and put in a new multi function switch, but still does the same thing?
View 1 RepliesI'm having several problems, and I'm wondering if they are related: Sometimes the heat/ac/vent blows on the windshield instead of where they are supposed to be. Occaisionally it works at first, and then changes after a few minutes to blow onto the windshield.
Sometimes I get a buzzing sound under the hood. Usually when I'm stopped, but sometimes while moving. The car idles high when this happens. If I tap the accelerator, this usually stops the noise and the idle drops to normal.
This morning, the brake warning light kept coming on while using the brake. The fluid level and pedal are OK, and the car stops OK. Then the buzzing sound came on, the engine light came on, and the brake warning light went out at the same time. The brake light hasn't come on since. The scanner tool indicates the IAC was running too fast.
I have a 2.0 Avh jetta. Around January I started getting intermittent cel coming up. I pulled the code back then and it said it was misfiring cylinders. It'd give me some rough idling when it was on. Since then the light would come on during wet weather. About a week ago the light came on and stayed on. I haven't been able to pull a code recently though to see if it is the same as before (cant get vcds to connect to my car for some reason).
My car has randomly died with a battery light (electronics stay on, engine shuts off) and I know this is pretty dangerous but it hasn't happened on a main road. I replaced the coilpack yesterday and planned to change the spark plugs as well but the spark plugs turned out to be more than i was equipped for (i do have them). Since I replaced the coilpack the car no longer rough idles but it did shut off with the battery light coming on. I'm really trying to avoid taking it in somewhere but I'm starting to think that is my only option left.
Should also add that the car starts up just fine initially but after a random battery light shut off it is a hard start and sometimes takes a few tries...
I have a 2007 GS350, one of my headlights will come on but shuts off after a short period. 1-+5 minutes. I can immediatly shut my lights off and then turn them back on and the light comes on.Is this the Ballast? Is it the Headlight? Where can i get new headlights that wont break the bank if thats what needs to be changed?
View 14 RepliesI just noticed that even when switching the dome light off, the trunk light never shuts off with the hatch open.
I assume there is no way to turn it off other than taking out the bulb?
I have 2003 Jetta GLI 24V VR6 original owner right from the showroom floor. Just the other day I was driving to work and all of the sudden the rpm's dropped the oil light came on (Beeping) and the car shuts off. I had just changed the oil several days ago and I know the oil level is correct and I check again and the oil level is correct.
So I started of very easy, like most blogs say "oil Sender"...replaced that and after driving for about 20 to 25 minutes...the same thing. So I also replace the oil pump and after driving 20 to 25 minutes the same thing.
No oil leaks. Oil pan is not cracked. So now I am at a loss. I have owned the car from day one and it is very well maintained.
I'm coming home from just running errands around town, got the stereo on pretty loud, normal driving, good weather, and the engine just shuts off. Lights are still on, regular brightness, everything electrical working, but battery light and EPC light are on and the engine won't restart. It'll turn and "click" like it's about to start, but just the starter turns over.
Fast forward 5 minutes (no activity in the interim), and it starts up first try. Battery light is now off but EPC light is still on. This happened about 2 blocks from home, so I gently take it home. 1 block away, the EPC light goes off. I let it idle for a minute and everything now seems normal. I shut it off and so here we are.
have a 2000 golf TDI 5 SPD Manuel. Was driving into work today and I got on the gas a bit and all the sudden the battery light comes on I hear the beep dash noise and my guage cluster shuts off. I pull into work. Car seems to be running fine.. All belts intact. battery brand new. Car starts and operates fine. At idle dash works. But when I tap the accelerator pedal that's when dash shuts off and battery light comes on. Bizarre. I checked a few fuses not exactly sure which one would be bad but. I didn't see any popped ones. I did notice that my top cluster of fuses all the connecting points are browning but fuses are good. So I am not sure if it was already like that....
View 4 Replies2001 Jetta 1.8t... Recently made a change in the engine head because in broke the timing belt and had to do valves etc., the car was without power(battery disconnected almost a month), now when it start, a light(symbol orange)comes in the cluster and the engine shuts off, what is causing this problem.
View 10 RepliesSo i installed the ddm tuning hid fog lights but every time i attempt to turn the fogs on they go on and off right away?
View 8 RepliesI'm having a turn signal issue with my '02 F-250 that started this morning out of the blue. Seems that when the signal switch is set for a right hand turn and the brakes are applied, the signal will then become solid, not flash, and then blow the fuse. Evidently something with the brake light circuit is overloading the turn signal circuit and not canceling when the turn signal is activated.
Here are a couple of things I have tried to narrow down the culprit.
1) Left turn signal works fine regardless if the brake lights are operating.
2) Brake light circuit operates fine by itself.
3) Right turn signal works fine but there seems to be a back-feed of power causing the center third brake light as well as the left side rear brake light to flash in unison. If brake lights are then activated, the flash stops and becomes constant thus blowing the fuse.
4) Emergency Hazard lights work perfect but the center third brake light again flashes as well which reverts back to some type of back-feed of power. Also, if brake lights come on, flashing turns to constant light and then blows the fuse again.
I guess my question is,. does this seem like the multi-function switch needs replacing or could this be a relay issue of some sort? I don' think its a ground issue simply because the left turn signal circuit as well as the center brake light circuit are both being breached when the right turn signal is activated. Your thoughts?
2002 F-250 Super Duty 5.4 V8
After replacing a tail light, my rear hatch quit opening, power windows quit rolling down, interior lights quit working, and also my key will not lock or unlock the doors. My first thought is a blown fuse. How did you solve it?
View 5 RepliesCar won't start this morning. Put the key in, turn it, and all the dash lights come on but the MPD flickers in sync a rapid clicking noise and I get an "Airbag Error" on the display. Lights, fans, etc work. This has to be tied to the fact that I totally blanked after going out to close my windows and left the keys in the ignition for approximately five hours. The key was in the ACC position, so I assume that led to battery drain on a battery approximately three years old. I've got a trickle charger on it now.
Just figured I'd check here verify that these batteries are not too temperamental/delicate for use with a trickle charger. Also to see if the general opinion is that running the car will recharge the battery or if I should just head out and replace it since three years seems to be the life of these batteries based on what I've read.