So after my first track day i bleed my brakes and they felt great for about 3 days, but then the pedal feel started to deteriorate back to its old crappy feel where nothing happens until its depressed to the same depth as the gas pedal...
In other words, I have about a solid 1.5 inches of travel with nothing happening.
Fixes? Bleeding procedure? I heard we have to prime our abs pumps? yes no?
I own a stock 2010 golf with 22k miles on it. There seems to be a problem with brake feel. Brake pedal feels way too soft and there is way too much pedal travel for brakes to engage. Car won't start decelerating until pedal is pushed nearly 1/2 of its total travel length. However there seems no problem with stopping the car. On hard braking car stops well (with ABS). Another problem is brake feel isn't linear.
View 10 RepliesI've had my R32 for a week now and I'm starting to develop some questions. This is one that I haven't been able to find an answer to by searching, so here it goes. When the ABS is active (coming to a hard stop on snow and ice, for example), I get a really strange almost "crunchy" feel through the brake pedal. ABS I've experienced on other cars hasn't been this harsh so I'm not sure if it's normal on these.
View 4 RepliesMy 2002 camry has a vibration feel while pumping the brake pedal (no other vibration from car). It happens, when you drive slow or fast and stop. Happens when the engine is not even turned on and the brake pedal is just pumped. Its hard to describe the feeling other than zig zaggy on the way down, pulsating, etc. It starts to feel this way on the way down and halfway through the press ends smooth.
I took it to a auto mechanic two days ago and he stated the car had zero brake issues. Rotors and pads are in good condition (sometimes these are the cause for the vibration, but only when driving and stopping), fluid level are good etc. I asked him to test it out and pump it slowly or adruptly, at standstill or while driving, but he still couldn't understand what i was talking about. Researched on the net and found out the likely problem has to do with either Brake booster pump or Master brake cylinder. From a tsb (like a recall note from toyota, see below) , it seemed certain it had to do with the master brake cylinder. I took it to Toyota today and they stated it had to do with the brake booster pump instead , its not worth fixing bc it cost an arm and a leg. Just now i stopped by Active Green + Ross at 110 Gerrard and he stated that its most likely the Master Brake Cylinder, since if you were to pump on the brake while the car was off, turn on the ignition, and if the pedal goes down smoothly , the booster pump should be ok. (it does go down smoothly)
He also stated that for a refurb master cylinder (non toyota) + labour it would come out to 250 bucks. The dealership was going to charge me 1500 for the booster pump and labour. They also advised not to used non toyota parts.
This issue does not hamper safety issues with the car. Its more of an annoyance that i'd like to take care of. I also don't want to pay 1500 for a car with 150k on it.
When coming to a hard stop and downshifting using engine braking, is it normal to have the brake pedal feel like it loses pressure to where the brake pedal pushes down further towards the floor for a split second? What causes that to occur?
View 10 RepliesCarefully modulating the brake in this car to offset any jerkiness caused by the DSG riding the gears down eventually became second nature to me and I am pretty good at keeping things nice and smooth. As of late however, my brakes are all over the place and it's driving me insane. If the person ahead of me stops short pulling up to a light and I need to follow suit, my brakes will often BITE hard resulting in a not so subtle jolt. Other times I don't get nearly as much stopping power as I think I should given how much force I'm putting on the pedal and I really have to bury it at the last minute. Not sure if these are a factor of the DSG downshifting at just the wrong moment or what, but it's gotten a bit unnerving.
View 3 Replies I swapped my fluid and ever since I did that my clutch and brake pedal are pulsing/vibrating only when I start the car. It almost feels like ABS pulsing but on both pedals and the car is obviously stationary.
I followed the procedure from the manual and did all 4 corners and slave.
Brakes work fine/clutch is fine...
I must have done something to upset the BRAKE system?
2015 Lexus IS 350 AWD.
Any time I've been driving for 10-15 minutes, my foot starts to feel like pins and needles because of a buzzing/vibration feel from the gas pedal. If someone were to drive in stop and go traffic for 5 minutes, they wouldn't notice it. However, it takes me 30 minutes on a highway to get to work and my foot is on the gas pedal the entire time. However, within several minutes of having my foot on the pedal, I get this sensation as described above and it gets so annoying that I almost don't want to have my foot on the gas pedal any more.
I did change my tires when I first got my car with Michelin tires but kept the stock rims. I did this so I can save the run flat tires for when I return my vehicle after the lease is done. I highly doubt its from the tires as there are no vibrations or other feelings in the steering wheel or seat. The car is otherwise smooth.
However, I feel like there are these buzzing vibrations in the foot well of this vehicle. What it could be? I know these gas pedals are metal but I find it hard to believe that would be the reason.
When I Accelerate It almost feels like I am fluttering the gas pedal. Its weird on my car now I have revo stage 2, a TIP, 42DD TBE, 4bar FPR.. Do I need to buy a race n75 vavle ?
View 11 RepliesMaybe I'm just too picky or my imagination is kicking in. In the last week or two, I noticed a grinding like feel on the stick, the steering wheel and the gas pedal (just a little, not too much), something like a bracket or plate loose somewhere and I can feel it more the faster I go. This can be reproduced by just pressing the clutch a little right up to the point where actually start engaging. I had the same feel on my Maxima and it was the heat shield. Am I alone on this one?
View 1 RepliesAfter almost 12,ooo miles, I'm starting to experience some kind of buzzing resonance that come through to the dash, console, and can feel it in the gas pedal. It's weird because it will happen when accelerating and decelerating too, but not it's not a constant occurrence. I wondering if the motor mounts are loose? The ICE runs great and the transmission seems to be operating as smoothly as ever. It's just odd that this started just recently.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cyl w/ hydraulic clutch, about 95k miles, and an intermittent problem. Normally, my clutch works fine, but a few times a year, normally during the summer, and normally only after driving for a half hour or more, it starts to act up. First, the pedal starts to feel a little spongy. Then, I'll depress the clutch, and when I release it, the peddle comes up, but the clutch does not engage; a few seconds later, the clutch engages fully instantaneously, which usually stalls the engine if I am stopped.
Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
I have a 1997 Subaru Legacy sedan with a 2.2L engine with AWD. When I step on the brakes I hear a ratcheting type of sound and feel pulsations in the brake pedal.There is no problem with brake performance that I have noticed. We have replaced the front rotors and front brake pads.We also replaced the rear passenger side brake caliper. It still makes a loud ratchet/groaning-like sound. It makes the sound when you first start braking after starting the car and intermittently while driving. It's not constant when you step on the brakes.
View 3 RepliesMy husband and I just bought a 2006 Accord Hybrid with 123,000 miles on it. The IMA and check engine lights came on two days later. I had the diagnostic check done on it and the code for battery pack deterioration came up. I read online where this code could be caused by the 12-volt battery going bad, and as it had the original battery in it, and the check on that showed it needed to be replaced, we did that. Two days later, the lights were on again. So we know we're going to have to replace the battery pack, which we're okay with, but what we want to know is whether the car will still run once that battery is completely shot. So far, it's still showing a good charge on it - whether that means anything, I don't know. Also, if it will run without the IMA component, will we be doing any damage to the car if we let it go for a few weeks?
View 8 RepliesSo, it snowed pretty good this morning and there was about 3-4 inches of snow on the ground. I pulled out of the driveway as usual (in reverse), I get to the end and I'm turning and I noticed a vibration like something was rubbing against the wheels, I thought maybe something to do with the snow and wheels lost traction or something. Then I continue driving and when I step on the brake moderately hard (normal braking), I get this vibration like something is stuck in the wheel well and the brake pedal vibrates. If I very gently press it, it doesn't happen. So i pulled over and check the wheel wells and rotors and nothing seems out of whack. Is this the ABS? The pedal shakes quite a bit.
View 18 RepliesI have a 2013 golf r with 12k miles and I remember the next day after racing it my brake petal started vibrating every time I step on it.
View 10 RepliesI was driving around today and had to hit the brakes really hard for the first time. ABS kicked in and during the ABS 'action' the brake pedal rapidly went to the floor. With each 'pump' the ABS made it felt like the pedal sunk slightly.
This was on dry pavement, a little gravelly / dirty and the car stopped rapidly, but just as I stopped the pedal was VERY close to the floor, and with just a touch more pressure it did in fact hit bottom.
Sounds to me like the ABS pump needs to be bled, is that right? Can I do that myself with a VAGCOM? I hate having the dealer do anything, even if it is their job. How to SAFELY confirm if cars does / does not do this as well?
A friend of mine recently had a VWR intake installed in his R along with HPA dogbone mount. After the installation he noticed a lot of vibration in his brake pedal. He then had the dogbone mount removed and the stock put back in thinking that the mount was causing the problem. After doing that he still had the vibrations in his brake pedal. He then brought the vehicle back to the dealership who did the install for him. They couldn't find what was causing the problem. He later found out that his VWR intake was resting directly on top of the brake reservoir. Noticed vibrations in the brake pedal or notice that it is resting on top of brake reservoir? Can his intake be missing a bracket or installed improperly?
View 5 RepliesThis morning I could feel vibration in both the clutch pedal and the brake pedal under normal acceleration. This just happened and is significant enough to make me feel something is wrong. Car has about 5700 miles on it. To be honest, I have never liked this transmission and have zero confidence in it. It feels completely weak, loose, soft, and lacks any feedback except unbelievably notchy shifting. Maybe it's my DieselGeek. I've already had to tighten/adjust it twice in ~2000 miles.
I am not resting my foot on the pedals during acceleration. I can feel the vibration as I go to engage the clutch/apply brakes.
2010 TDI DSG 25k miles. Something I just noticed when I was coming off cruise control I went to cancel cruise by stepping on the brake pedal and noticed it vibrating quite a bit (kind of tickled). I tried experimenting with it on the way to work the next day. Seems to happen when the car is under power not coasting. Tires are at 38psi no vibration through the steering wheel or seat, car tracks straight.
My previous two cars were Subaru's WRX and Legacy GT and boxer motors shake a lot but I never noticed a vibration. This could have been happening with the Golf for a while and I just noticed now. I don't think it's the rotors as I was feeling around under the brake pedal with my left foot while accelerating with my right and definitely vibrating. I brought it to the dealer and they replaced the brake pedal carrier bearing/pin and it's a little better but still vibrating. Is this normal?
So out of nowhere after about 20k miles, I am driving and start to feel what seems like something metal, tapping my brake pedal (felt like someone was tapping it lightly with a hammer). It clearly was not coming from inside of the car and was annoying, if you place your foot on the brake and "jiggle" the steering wheel you could feel it, as if something was loose. After looking I could not find anything on the inside or outside of the vehicle that seemed loose. I did not have to equip to jack the car up and get into the nitty gritty, but did what i could from the top.
Since I still have a warranty I took it in. Stealership calls about 2 hours later and says there is an obvious issue with my ABS. Then proceeds to tell me that my car is "heavily modified" (i have a twintake and hi-flo pipe) and they are basically trying to blame the issue on my intake. Because clearly that makes sense.