Since the weather has warmed up, I have been experiencing an odd issue. After I drive my car for a little while I will let it sit and go to class for example. Whenever I get back into my car and start it, It will bog for a second and then resume to normal idle. It has happened multiple times with no check engine light. I will try to get a video tomorrow.
View 9 Replieslike the title said is it normal that my car idles at 875 rpm on idle
View 7 RepliesSo every morning I get in my car and start it up. Usually, It starts right up, hit 1.5K RPM and then drops to almost dead (~3-400RPM) and then goes back up to a normal idle. This has always concerned me but never thought too much of it since the car goes right back to normal after a few seconds. Today the car did the normal startup and then died. What is causing this?
View 4 RepliesNormally when cold the car would start and rest at about 1,200 maybe 1,300 for a couple minutes then go down to its normal idle point, recently when starting it when cold, it sounds and looks like it wants to do that but just goes straight to its normal idle point, its only started this a couple does ago and has me a little worried now. could there be anything wrong ?
View 12 RepliesIs there a way to resume cruise control once it is stopped by braking or hitting the cruise button? My other vehicle saves it so that it can be resumed but I don't see this option in the Azera and have to set it up again every time.
View 2 RepliesMy 2015 IS250 base model wipers don't resume while is enabled after I turned off the car. Is it suppose to resume after I turn on the car if I don't turn off the wiper?
View 2 RepliesA few months back my Explorer Sport Trac's traction control activated while I was driving up a hill. My engine idled down and I slowed almost to a stop. Almost immediately, the light went off and everything returned to normal. This morning on the way to university, the traction control activated and would not allow the engine to resume acceleration until I disabled it (which only allows it to be disabled below 40 mph).
It finally stopped as I was arriving at campus. There were no odd noises, nothing unusual about how it drove (apart from the issue above), and no other warning lights were present.
Audio doesn't resume upon selecting Radio or Media from the display?
Instead, we have to press the volume **** and then select radio or media, adding a step.
So here's my problem; my 05 Excursion has a v10 and now it does not idle correctly. At a stop sign and in gear it idles anywhere between 900 to 1200 rpms. Normally it should be idling around 750. I just noticed this as I had to apply more brake pressure to keep from driving through an intersection. Since this has happened I have changed the air filter and fuel filter. Do you think I need a computer reset, or something else?
View 14 RepliesMy cruise control has been out for awhile and I have run the diagnostic test several times, earlier this year and now again recently. The cruise control light blinks after I push the ON and RESUME buttons, but no blink for the COAST button. I suspect there is a problem in the wiring, but I wanted to get your thoughts before I replace the switches. 2007 Ranger XLT ....
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 chevy blazer about 134000 miles v6 4.3 4wd.. This last two weeks my blazer been running rough. I like to know what is normal idle for that blazer. When at idle its 500- 550 rpm when in drive its 500rpm.
View 16 RepliesWhat normal idle rpm is with a/c on with automatic transmission. Mine fluctuates between 680 to 710 with condenser fan on low and 900 when high speed condenser fan is on.
View 1 RepliesThe idle speed is higher than normal, about 800-900 RPM. Whenever I stop for the traffic light, the engine will behave as if someone is pressing the gas pedal intermittently. It has new spark plug wires and coil.
View 8 RepliesI have a problem with my Camry 170k on the clock. Took it out a few nights back and the high idle was stuck on, after about an hour the idle gradually dropped to normal.
The next night it would not start and run unless I keep the accelerator pedal pressed slightly, after warming up it seems to run fine, The high idle has not returned
I have seen a few suggestion on cleaning the iac valve with Carbie cleaner, so I tried that and it made no difference.
I have done everything I can think of to this car. New; plugs, wires, distributor, battery, fuel pump, fuel filter, relay, and electrical lines to fuel pump. The timing belt is fine. The car has a rough idle and when I am stopped the RPM's drop below normal. Now it won't start. What can I try now?
View 1 RepliesSo I just bought a 2002 Elantra with 72k on the clock (legitimate) and I'm having issues where the car will start fine in the morning and idle normally, however, say I come back to go somewhere else about two hours later, when I start it the car will rev up to 3k and stay there for about 3 seconds and jump down to normal idle speed. What's the issue?
View 7 RepliesMy '96 Honda Accord has about 174,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago I checked my oil and the oil was black and way above the full level. I had also been adding 8-9 ounces of coolant previous to checking the level.
My coolant temp gauge has never gone beyond normal range. Two mechanics said I had a blown head gasket. I decided to change the oil and filter and only put in 4 quarts of oil. The level is only up about 1/4 inch level and the rest of the dipstick is completely clear. My friends also checked and it is so clean, like there is no oil in the car, but I have no signs of oil leaking. My oil pressure gauge shows normal pressure.
I continue to add 2-3 ounces of coolant each week. Early in the morning the engine shudders a minute or two before calming to a normal idle. I only drive around town a little, 75 miles a week. Can I continue running the car in this condition? If so, for how long? There is nothing else wrong with the car. Is it worth repairing?
I've got a P0456 code on my 02 LS v6. I came to a stop at a light, RPMs quickly dipped twice from 800 to 400(ish) then went right back to normal idle (800-1000) and the CEL lit up. It seems to be running fine other than the RPM drops after coming to a stop.
I checked the gas cap, everything seems OK there. Checked the hoses coming into/out of Evap valve (well, assuming this diagram actually points me to the evap valve: [URL] .... and there were no major/detectable cracks. Any other hoses/fittings that I should check?
ive actually owned 4 volkswagens one of which was a 2002 big turbo gti which made 325whp..... so now i have a 2005 Jetta GLI with about 41k on it. This car has a serious idle problem. Start up is fine and it runs great and hits boost perfect. It has a 6 speed, APR chip intake, forge DV, and DP. When i come to a traffic light and come to a complete stop after about 10 seconds it hiccups and the idle drops to abou 600 and then back up to normal idle. It will also do it if i just leave the car running in neutral it will randomly stutter. I have new spark plugs and new fuel injectors and i only use 93.
View 1 Replies1997 escort lx wagon, manual, 173,000 miles... When I stop at a red light or stop sign, it takes 10-15 seconds for the idle to drop down to where it should be, and when I push clutch in to shift gears it doesn't drop down, it stays where it is. No codes are coming up. I'm thinking IAC....
View 9 RepliesI filled up my car at the local gas station. It had been raining non-stop for the past three days and nights. 10-15 minutes later as I'm stopped at a light, the car starts shuddering, almost stalls a few times. Rough idle all the way home.
I limp home, guessing water in the fuel. Next day I go to Advance Auto and buy some fuel additives which are supposed to solve the water problem. The guy there mentions that he's had a number of reports of similar issues from this particular gas station (it's now out of business, go figure). Additives make things better but not fully.
2 tanks of gas later now and the rough idle is much better but not gone. Car seems to have less power and sounds a little bit raspy on acceleration (not noticeable unless driving near a wall which can bounce the sound back). My guess is that one of the cylinders is not firing, maybe needs a new spark plug?
The more worrisome thing is that as the car has started running more smoothly I've also noticed a smell of gas after startup (may still be there when running but I don't notice it then) -- coming from the exhaust. This seems to be in-line with the missing cylinder theory but I'm running blind here as I don't have much experience on this topic.
The car's a 1997 C280. 130K on it. It's old but mechanically the thing has been a tank so far (Inline 6 I think) -- very sturdy and responsive. I'm hoping that this whole ordeal hasn't done permanent damage.