Golf IV R32 :: Blown Tire And Damaged Rim?
Feb 7, 2010
So last night i was driving in minneapolis and felt like hitting a pot hole i couldn't see and now i have a blown tire and damage to my rim, this is now the second blown tire i have had and i have only had the car for 3 months. luckly i got replacement plans on all my new tires
I am just wondering if this is a common issue with the low profile tires and if so what can i do so i don't have this issue again? If i switch to 17 inch wheels would the tires i guess be more reliable to rough road conditions? and if so what are some choices i can go with to get over the breaks.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
I was driving on the freeway(70mph), when a loud pop noise (sound of a blown tire.) Felt like a wheel bearing seized up then felt rough on the road. Got off the freeway and everything looked normal from the outside. No smell/smoke. While driving home on the back roads, i was hearing a rattle from the trunk area.
Lifted the car and noticed a little bit of fluid on the front of the differential. Didn't find any leaks or puddles. Took the fuse out for the haldex, and drove it around, still feels the same but still hear the rattle. Hoping its not the differential but haven't drained any fluid yet.
Ok, well never mind. brake system locked up on me.
View 1 Replies
I have a Hyundai Sonata 2006. About a month and a half ago, I got in an accident and had to have the very front of the car repaired (they replaced the radiator, a/c unit, hood and a few other smaller things). The receipt that lists everything out in detail shows that the antifreeze/coolant was filled.
Fast forward to yesterday, and I'm getting an oil change. I also asked them to check out the front tire on the driver's side, as it seemed to have a slow leak. The woman at the counter wrote down to check the front left tire. A couple hours later, the guy calls me up and tells me that they found a nail in the right tire and will patch it up but nothing in the left. He also says that I am low on coolant and that he highly recommends I get the radiator flushed. Of course I told him not to do it since the radiator was just installed last month (well within the 90 day warranty).
I got the car home, checked the coolant level, and sure enough, it was way below the L. I haven't noticed any fluid under the car in parking spots or the driveway. I figured I would call up the place that did the repair work on Tuesday (it being a holiday weekend and they were already closed) and ask them about it. The receipt does say that it is an aftermarket part, but it wouldn't need to be flushed already, right?
Around 1 AM this morning, I heard a loud bang. It was my driver's side tire. What are the odds that the mechanic thinks that driver's side is right and the receptionist thinks that it is left? Do you think that it is more likely the patch failed or that the unpatched tire burst? Who should I call first on Tuesday: the mechanics that did the repairs about the radiator, or the mechanics that did the oil change/patch job?
View 3 Replies
Unfortunately I encountered damage to my rims while parking.
One of them is deep the other is a lighter one.
I will call some rim repair places tomorrow, is this fixable.
I tried to put some scratch remover but it does not work over metal.
I saw some videos on youtube on fixing rims.
[URL]
They are sand papering it, applying bondo and painting over it.
Even if this is possible, what would be color of the touch up paint.
View 10 Replies
Drove over one of those median lane seperators. You know those pointed yellow curb type thingys. Of course my R is lowered, and afterwards I got out to see if I busted my oil pan. I see oil leaking!!! Limp my car to Auburn Vdub. They give me a loaner and send me on my way. I am thinking okay so I am out a couple hundred bucks for a new oil pan. Then I get the call...Broke my transmission case, it was gear oil leaking out! $11,000 later I get my ride back as good as new. Of course I turned it in to my insurance. They sent out an adjuster and ended up replacing various other parts besides the DSG that were also damaged.
View 11 Replies
A little background info: 2012 .:R. After about 6 months bought an APR CBE. Had no issues. Another few months go by and I bought a VWR intake. No
Issues. Another few months go by and I decide to get a reflash to APR Stage 1. Take it down to the authorized dealer they have HPFPs in stock so I say what the he'll do stage 1+. drove the car for a bit felt and sounded amazing. Go eat. Come out and car won't start. I'm getting fault displays for ESC and AFS. Tried disconnecting battery to reset to slot 1 which is stock setting. Didn't work. My radiator fan is kicking on with the key in on but the engine off. I'm not sure if I locked myself out or if the ECU is fried. I tried toggling settings nothing works as the instructions say. Had it towed to the dealership. Guy says it may cost a lot if the ECU is damaged. APR is closed. Their dealer here is closed. I have to wait until Monday to find anything out.
View 24 Replies
I have a 2006 VW Golf with 140,000 miles. Last week took it to the shop to have a wheel bearing replaced. Mechanic also replaced the wheel hub. When I left the shop I discovered a new problem that had not previously been there. Now the Anti-lock brakes are kicking in at the very end of a soft stop on smooth, dry roads and even in my garage. This happens about 20% of the time, but never during a hard stop. I took it back to the shop on Monday and mechanic could not find anything and was perplexed. The question is whether the ABS sensor could have been damaged during repairs and is the car safe to drive?
View 14 Replies
I'm having an obvious tire pressure loss on my rear left tire. Fill it up and in a few days I get the warning. I don't see any holes or anything. My question is this. Whats the cheapest route to go about this? I bought the car in June, so wondering if warranty would even cover tires? Is it worth a try? Not sure if I should take to the dealer to check it out, or just a town fair tire place.
View 13 Replies
i blew my trans,what transmission can be used with the r32?
View 3 Replies
If the sensor starts to work loose the engine will keep advancing until valve loving embraces little piston then the party is over.
View 12 Replies
I was installing my LED interior light kit from deautokey and I'm pretty sure I blew a fuse. No interior lights are working now. I found the fuse box but which fuse controls interior lighting circuit.
View 7 Replies
My car has been leaking coolant as soon as you put it in from it looks like the transmission area. Today I filled the car with water and drove it on the interstate to work. The car started getting jerky like it was losing power. So I pulled over and when I did the car shut off. There was excessive smoke under the hood and after removing the oil cap, smoke coming from there also. Tried restarting and it sounds like it just spins. No start. Looked at the timing belt, it's still intact. Put a wrench on the crank pulley and it's turning. What's wrong? Is it a goner?
View 10 Replies
Recenly, i feel like i haven't been hitting boost, so i went to get an oil change last week. I did the oil change, and everything seemed ok, I thought it might have been a slight boost leak. This morning i check my drive way to see a little oil on it. So i check the dip stick and the oil level is already at a minimum. Do you think i have a blown turbo due to the oil drop and lack of boost. It hasn't been a 100 mi since the oil change either.
View 7 Replies
VW GTI 1.8T 5 speed.
So I've blown the differential on my transmission, it's been blown for a little while. I have basically no transmission fluid at all.
Question: Why is the car still driving normally?
Some time ago I was getting a transmission fluid flush and change, my gear shifter was a bit stiff before the change and after changing the fluid it became smoother.
According to my mechanic that would be the result of changing the fluid.
Question: So then why is my gear shifter completely smooth without any transmission fluid at all and a blown differential?
Question: what will happen if I leave it like this? I'm assuming it will eventually seize up?
View 13 Replies
So I was driving home from work in my 2000 Jetta 2.0, which has 115k miles on it. Its a 5 speed and I love the car, even though its kind of a beater. Anyway, coming off the highway and reducing speed, I hear a loud banging coming from the engine bay. It sounds like a car would if a spark plug were blown out of the block.
There is definitely a loss of power and the motor is running rough. The check engine light is flashing at me constantly. I pull off the highway and pop the hood. No fluid loss, no obvious smoke coming from anywhere. I start feeling around the engine bay and I feel high pressure air (exhaust?) being expelled from under the valve cover.
So what could have broken? Cracked head? blown headgasket? some other thing I haven't thought of? Its obvious that exhaust gas is leaking from a cylinder into the valve cover.
View 1 Replies
So over the last couple of days my GTi has been hesitating as I accelerated past 2500-3500 rpms so I took it in to the dealer this morning to have them look at and sure enough, it had blown an Ignition Coil.
I know this was a common issue with the 1.8l Turbo engines but I thought this had been corrected in the new models.
I have a '10 GTi with 14000 km's on it and some mods (see signature). And no, they didn't comment or ask about the APR chip or intake.
View 16 Replies
I own a 2001 Jetta 1.8t with Gti front end. So I was driving downtown the other day and I bottomed out really hard and cracked my oil pan. I didn't realize it was cracked and leaking so I drove it home, drove fine with no issues at all. When I got home I parked it and went inside and in the morning I came out and tuned it on for maybe ten seconds. It made a really loud ticking sound that was constant and oil pressure was almost all the way down. So I shut it off and looked and saw the oil pan. I fixed the oil pan yesterday and started it up and it sounded really good and drives fine. But I've been hearing a pretty decently loud ticking sound when everything's up to temp and warmed up. The ticking is only at an idle and it drives like it use to just sounds bad at an idle. Some people think it's my oil pump and tensioner, some people thing I ruined the turbo and possibly internals.
View 4 Replies
2 nights ago I was driving around the neighborhood. I was coming down a small hill to a stop sign where I could only make a right or a left. I proceeded to turn right and a dog ran in front of the car. I swerved to the left, managing to not hit the dog but run flat into the sidewalk. In the moment it felt like my bumper had just scraped the edge and it sounded like I had just scatched the bottom of the bumper. I proceeded down the street for about 2-3 minutes before my car started slowing down. The engine was still on but when I pushed down on the pedal to accelerate the engine just revved.
When I looked down to see if maybe I had knocked the car into neutral, I couldn't move the shifter and it appeared to be stuck in reverse? When I tried pulling my car to the side of the road I found that now my steering wheel was also locked up and could barely tug it enough to get it moved over. Finally, I made it to the side of the road and now my brakes were locked as well. I managed to stop it with the e-brake but still the shifter wouldn't budge to put it in park. I turned the car off to avoid damaging the engine. I didn't address this problem immediately so I came back the following day to check it out, and couldn't get the car to turn over. I had power, the battery was fine, the engine wouldn't even make a noise like it was trying.
Eventually I looked underneath the car and saw the oil leaking from what I believe is the oil pan? This is my first car and know absolutely nothing about how an engine works. Could this be a computer response so that the engine doesn't seize? Again, the brakes, the gear shifter,and the steering wheel are all locked and won't budge. I used the emergency release lever to realease the gear shifter and was able to pull it into neutral and start the engine but I had to hold the shifter firmly the whole time and if I let go it would pop back into reverse(but it still rolls forward like it's in neutral?). Is this something a warranty or insurance would cover? Hopefully this is just the oil pan because I do not have a fraction of the money to get my transmission or engine entirely replaced.. It's a 2013 VW Jetta 2.5SE with 45k miles on it.
View 1 Replies
So when I was washing my car for the first time I noticed that the bumper was damaged. It can be fixed or does the bumper need to be replaced?
View 14 Replies
So I have a 2009 metallic Prius and I just recently got into an accident. I ran over a fire hydrant. My front bumper went through a front collision. The left part of my front bumper is pretty much destroyed.
View 10 Replies
Man, do I long for the days of carburated engines and distributor caps. Problems were obvious and so were the fixes. About 2 months ago, my engine light came on. There were no symptoms of any problems. Plugged in VAG COM and got the codes. They pointed to a possible faulty temp sensor and a possible bad O2 sensor. I grabbed my multimeter and tested both. They checked out withing specs. I read about a problem with the OEM temp sensor and replaced it for $4.50. A new O2 sensor is about $125. I didn't feel like wasting $125 on a perfectly good O2 sensor. So I waited until I could afford to take it to VW to let it be their problem at $90/hour.
Last week, the car was hard-starting from what seemed to be a low battery. All the voltages tested fine, so I called a friend with a load tester to test it on the weekend. Before the weekend came, I had to get jumped once and pop-start a couple other times. I needed a new battery. After all, it was the original, oem battery.
48 battery for my 2001.5 Passat. This battery does not fit. It needs a group 91. This was a pain in the a&$ to locate and one expensive battery at $119 before tax and core charge.
The silver lining, however, is that replacing the battery seems to have made my engine problems disappear. I have dome the requisite amount of driving to reproduce an engine light, but it has not re-appeared. VAG COM reported that everything is A-OK. I would never have guessed to replace the battery to fix the codes I was getting.
Anyway, take note, I am not sure what lesson I leared here, if any, but it's worth having this knowledge if you ever run into this elusive problem.
BTW, I also undestand that you can fix a faulty headlight by kicking your Passat in the tailpipe.
View 6 Replies
