Golf IV R32 :: Blown Engine Due To Cam Timing Sensor?
Sep 14, 2010
If the sensor starts to work loose the engine will keep advancing until valve loving embraces little piston then the party is over.
View 12 RepliesIf the sensor starts to work loose the engine will keep advancing until valve loving embraces little piston then the party is over.
View 12 RepliesI posted my passat to sell/part out last week. So I talked to the mechanic today and he hasn't looked in the engine. He just says that when the timing chain goes it wrecks the valves and pistons (needs rebuild). HE WAS TRYING TO SAVE ME MONEY THOUGH...FAMILY FRIEND. My sister got lucky on her passat and only messed up the valves. But she was sitting still....I was doing 80mph on 95 going to work. Should I have the engine looked at or sell it.....what are the odds I got lucky??? I found a lot of posts/blogs about how everyones engine blew, but no one said they got lucky.
View 9 RepliesI've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
View 19 Replies2001 volvo s40. Diagnostics performed. Error codes for the timing belt and temperature sensor. These were replaced. The check engine light still comes on/stays on.
View 6 RepliesI took the car out for a little spin about 8 miles. We where about .5 of a mile from the house and there is a section where you have to stop on a little bit of a hill. I stalled the car due to the new Dm clutch then headed to the house and the car started to run like crap. I hooked up VAGCOM and had this code:
17748.P1340 camshaft position sensor-G40/ Engine speed sensor-G28: incorrect allocation(#1)
I swapped out the 2 cam position sensors and cleared the code and started the car and it still ran like crap. I just happen to have a new Cam position sensor(hall sensor) so I swapped it out in both cam positions one at a time and cleared the code and the car still runs like crap.
Is there a way to check(test) with vagcom to see if its one of the engine speed sensors?
I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
View 9 RepliesSo I was driving home from work in my 2000 Jetta 2.0, which has 115k miles on it. Its a 5 speed and I love the car, even though its kind of a beater. Anyway, coming off the highway and reducing speed, I hear a loud banging coming from the engine bay. It sounds like a car would if a spark plug were blown out of the block.
There is definitely a loss of power and the motor is running rough. The check engine light is flashing at me constantly. I pull off the highway and pop the hood. No fluid loss, no obvious smoke coming from anywhere. I start feeling around the engine bay and I feel high pressure air (exhaust?) being expelled from under the valve cover.
So what could have broken? Cracked head? blown headgasket? some other thing I haven't thought of? Its obvious that exhaust gas is leaking from a cylinder into the valve cover.
My '06 Trailblazer has apparently blown out the fuel gauge sensor. it was erratic then stayed on "E' for two months. So I get to drop the tank to check it... how to check it easily. So I'm figuring if I'm going to drop the tank maybe I should just get a pump and sensor replacement. It has 150 k.
View 4 RepliesI dropped off my R almost 10 days ago due to a check engine light and was told my timing is advanced at idle. So they replaced both timing chains and the timing tensioner. What could have caused the timing advance?
Engine is stock and always use 91octane ...
I own a 2001 Jetta 1.8t with Gti front end. So I was driving downtown the other day and I bottomed out really hard and cracked my oil pan. I didn't realize it was cracked and leaking so I drove it home, drove fine with no issues at all. When I got home I parked it and went inside and in the morning I came out and tuned it on for maybe ten seconds. It made a really loud ticking sound that was constant and oil pressure was almost all the way down. So I shut it off and looked and saw the oil pan. I fixed the oil pan yesterday and started it up and it sounded really good and drives fine. But I've been hearing a pretty decently loud ticking sound when everything's up to temp and warmed up. The ticking is only at an idle and it drives like it use to just sounds bad at an idle. Some people think it's my oil pump and tensioner, some people thing I ruined the turbo and possibly internals.
View 4 RepliesI've a 2.0L Santa Fe CRDI 4WD, 2003. My Crank position sensor has blown. My question is, does the timing belt have to be replaced with the sensor, or can the sensor be replaced alone? I know the belt must be replaced with petrol models but I've been told it may not be necessary with diesels.
View 1 RepliesI have a 01 Elantra and my daughter has a 02. Both cars have the camshaft sensor at the front (timing belt) end of the engine. My daughters car is a early model with a 01 engine in it. My understanding is that later 02 engines moved the camshaft sensor to the ignition coil end of the cylinder head. My question is did the timing remain the same so that if I put a 01 engine in a late 02 body and spliced the sensor in would it work correctly?
View 8 RepliesI am a newbie Golf owner and have little trouble. I am not sure where is the map sensor located in my 1.8 tsi engine. I've been googling and have not found pic or technical drawing to be 100% proof which one is it.
View 2 RepliesI recently bought my new (For me) R32, the first owner of the car remove the 2 catalyst from the car and now I have the check engine light on. When my friend put the vagcom on the car it shows an oxygen sensor fault. What can I do to fix this? can I just buy a MagnaFlow exhaust?
View 11 RepliesI've been having an issue with my car and the check engine light is on.
The code reads : P0030
Heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 1
heater control circuit
2001 VW GTI VR6 ....
My temperature has been randomly dropping, them back to middle, and recently my engine was overheating because I'm guessing the fans didn't turn on, because I'm also guessing, the engine didn't know it was overheating?
Anywho, during my replacement, I made sure to get rid of the pressure, and the car was cold. I tightened the cap again, but when I took the sensor out, all the coolant spewed out.
Now if I understand this correctly, do I have a leak? I figured the leak I had was coming from the temp sensor as it is.
Here's some pictures for those who'd like to see ....
I've got a 2003 Jetta Wolfsberg that is acting up, I'll do my best to describe and outline the steps I've taken with the mechanic to fix the problem,
Occasionally, when starting the car one of two things happens, (1) engine turns over, fires, and then dies. Removing the key, letting the car sit for 30 seconds and trying again usually gets the car started. (2) The car will start but will run VERY roughly (misfiring, sounding like the engine is choking out). Very much like this (only sometimes much worse, usually ending in a stall): [URL] ....
Turning the car off, removing the key, letting it sit, and then trying it again will eventually work, even though it might take a few cycles. Once the car gets running it almost always runs fine from thereon. (There have been a couple occasions where the car has gone into limp mode, even on the freeway. Pulling over, letting it sit, and starting it again almost always fixes the problem. I've not yet been stranded.)
Diagnosis & Steps taken:
I get regular codes for the camshaft position sensor and also for the MAP (Barometric pressure) sensor. Both have been replaced.The MAP sensor and the atmospheric pressure readings are off by about 30 (something like 960 and 990). My mechanic thought that maybe it was an electrical problem, he noted that the two sensors mentioned above share a common ground. He replaced the ground because it looked corroded. This brought the pressure numbers both to 990 and the car ran perfectly for a few weeks.One thought was to splice in a new wire to the MAP sensor, to see whether it was a signal problem, this hasn't been done yet. Another possibility was that there is a problem with the ECM.
I THINK, that the problems began just after having the computer flashed at the dealership two years ago. I'd got a code about an update and so the dealership did this. I don't know whether this could have had any effect on these problems, but the times lined up too well to not mention it.
I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t. My check engine light came on and it gave me the code P0135 sensor heater circuit. Bank 1 Sensor 1. We bought a new 02 sensor and replaced it. We definitely bought the right one too. Cleared the codes. After a little driving the CEL came back on with the same code P0135. What is wrong and how I can fix this?
View 6 RepliesMy daughters 2004 f150 5.4 3v. 130k miles. Had a broken timing chain guide on passenger side. Changed phasers, solenoids, timing chains, crank gear, tensioners, and oil pump. Pulled pan and cleaned it and the pickup tube of pieces of the old guide. Engine had zero sludge. Very clean inside.
Put it all back together. Left crank sensor unplugged to rotate engine until it had good oil pressure which only took a few seconds. Plugged sensor back in. Truck started right up. Runs perfect. Drove perfect. Idles with no noise. But as soon as I rev it up a little, there is a HORRENDOUS squealing from the lower left of the engine. Pulled serpentine belt and squealing is still there. Used a stethoscope to determine its in the lower left behind the timing cover.
I haven't pulled the cover back off yet but what this could be? Everything went back together fine so I can't imagine what it is.
HOWEVER, I did notice that my new tensioners only had an oil hole in one of them. The two I removed both had an oil hole. So one of the new tensioners does not have an oil hole in the center of the plunger. I see online, that many did not come with an oil hole. But I'm wondering if this could be the source of the squealing? Maybe not oiling the chain enough and the squeal that I hear is the chain on the plastic guide?
I was thinking about checking out the above vehicle at my local dealer (Chevrolet). They're asking 15.9k and it has 57k miles. I need to know if it has a timing belt or a timing chain and how reliable is the engine/transmission.
View 1 Repliesi blew my trans,what transmission can be used with the r32?
View 3 Replies