So, for the past year or so, my R backfires on cold starts. I have had the MAF, Fuel pump, door sensor, and coil packs replaced. Still no progress. Now that it is starting to cool down here in CO, this is happening much more often.
View 15 RepliesI have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee that when you start and put in drive, it will feeling like it is stalling and sometimes backfire. It does this until I step on the gas and go fast for a couple of seconds. After that it is fine until I start again alter in the day. There were no codes when the garage checked.
View 2 Replies2005 v6 silverado, not starting, backfiring some, this happened all of a sudden, I do have spark, good clean distrub cap/rotor, plug wires, since this no start happened today then - new hall effect sensor, and new cank position sensor, new battery, Should I be looking into the fuse system? there is pressure at the fuel line, but do not know how much (don't have a guage) and am confused if this would cause backfiring.It is currently show no error codes for the OBD II
View 6 RepliesWhen engine is cold, my 1989 Honda Civic with 270,000 miles starts fine. I'll drive it about 3-5 miles to run an errand, and shut it off for a few minutes while I'm in the store. When I come out, engine turns over but has trouble starting. It almost seems like it's backfiring through the engine. If I wait about 15-20 minutes, I can usually get it to start by goosing it, but the engine runs rough (intermittently) and sometimes stalls. The problem seems to be related to the engine temperature. Could this be caused by a sticky valve?
View 1 RepliesI'm having problems with my 2000 ranger 4x4 off road edition it has 262,000 miles when it runs for about a half an hour shut it off try to start it in 20 minutes or so doesn't want to start sounds like it's backfiring to the throttle body replace the crank positioning sensor replace the ignition coil still doing it.
View 3 RepliesTo start I drive a mliv 1.8t jetta. The car has a stage II custom tune, a turbo back exhaust straight piped, and a splitter valve. The valve cover gasket, spark plugs and coil packs, rear o2 sensor (with a 42dd spacer as well) were all changed recently to try and stop my problems from reoccurring. Also the MAF sensor was cleaned too, but was not very dirty. The problem tends to cease when I delete the codes and it has to relearn the fuel mapping. When the check engine light comes back on, the problems re occur. The code thrown is catalytic converter below threshold, but i have no cats. What happens with my car is, when the car is fully warmed, the car has a rough idle, to where it sounds like a heavy duty diesel truck when idling, the car will shake from the vibrations, when i go to start moving, the car bogs down to where it feels like it will stall, but it will buck and shoot off. Also when driving the car randomly bogs down, but then will shoot off will power! Sometimes at idle when its bad, if i tap the gas, the car will back fire very loudly.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Jetta VR6 12v. I'm having an issue with backfiring. Also, I am having a severe issue with bucking. Sometimes it will not happen at all, and when it does happen it can occur from 2300-5500 RPMs. No matter how hard or soft I am on the throttle, it will hit this point, different everytime, and the throttle will cut out, then pick up, then cut out, then pick up.
Now, I know my MAF is throwing a few codes. But it was throwing codes for a month before this started, maybe longer,and the only symptoms were backfiring and a little lag at startup. However, the same night my issue began, I also developed a coolant leak. Upon inspection, the coolant leak path was traveling directly over my CKP sensor where it connects to the engine block, which also began throwing a code. The car starts fine, idles fine, and never stalls or dies. So my options here are replace the MAF if that seems likely to be the issue, or to attempt using liquid electrical tape to prevent the leak from hitting my CKP sensor.
I've noticed that she has to turn over a few more times than normal to start up. I don't have any engine mods and I'm approaching 10k miles. I've found a couple posts where people say their cars are a little harder to start when it's cold out, but I live in Hawaii and the temperature is never below the mid 60's.
View 11 RepliesEver since its been real cold out, or if the car sits overnight, I've noticed my car doesn't turn on right away. Hold the key for a solid 2 seconds before it turns over.
View 9 RepliesMy car has been acting funny when I first turn it on I can't get into Reverse. But when I got to work today I could go right into reverse and park at work.
Then leaving I went to try and nothing the shifter I can push down and go to the side but will not go up like it's not even meant to do so. But by the time I got home and had to reserve a little and got it right in and I can reverse find no weird sounds or anything.
Couple months ago I noticed that my car was experiencing rough idle, stuttering exhaust note during cold start. RPM is very stable!
Forward 4-5 months to last week, starting to notice vibration and it seems like the situation has gotten worse. The car returns to normal after 1 minute or so depending on how long it has been sitting there for. For example, If I park there for 30 minutes and try to start the car, I can feel a little vibration for up to 10 seconds. If it was parked for overnight, then the problem lasts up to one minute and then clears out. Now it's throwing a P0302 error which is cylinder 2 misfiring.
It's really like magic, the car would idle pretty rough and suddenly clears out.
I put in 4 brand new ignition coils and plugs, all OEM stuff and still hasn't worked.
This problems started during the winter time and I can clearly notice it's gotten worse and finally last week it threw the misfiring code.
I feel like something is failing or building up slowly. My car is a 2009 GTI TSI which has the same engine as the MK6 GTI.
I recently got my Mk7 1.8T manual brand new and have been wondering about the long cold start idle. It usually takes around a minute or two before the revs drop below 1000. Coming from a '04 Mercedes and '11 TDI Jetta, I can say those cars the idles dropped much faster. Is this normal with the golf?
View 11 Repliesjust got my R32 a year and 3 months ago and love it. I came across my first issue though a couple months ago, when i start my car on cold starts before it would of course go to the cold start mode at over 1,000 rpm's before going back down after 30 seconds and depending on the weather i'd let it warm up anywhere from 5-15 minutes.
Well a couple months ago my car wouldn't do its normal cold start routine, i'd turn it and it made its loud pitch as if it was going to do the cold start and it just immediately went down to regular idle skipping the warm up, it did this for a week before i got it checked out. I went to a shop by me and he said that it might be a thermostat sensor so i replaced it and nothing. So he then pulled my throttle body off cleaned it did the whole calibration thing or whatever its called that you have to do when unplugging them and it went back to normal!!! Well after a month (two weeks ago) its doing it again. Then he told me it might be that the throttle body has some condensation frozen and isn't allowing the throttle to open like it needs too.
I live in a suburb 20 minutes north of chicago and i don't drive the car if it snows, i keep it in my garage. I have a CAI installed on the car that i put on back in March of 09 and a flapper that i just permanently opened with an IV clamp. So i don't have any big modification on the car...yet
At cold start (car sitting at least 8 hours), and the first block or so of driving, I have been getting smoke from the exhaust. I am not 100% certain whether to describe it as black or blue. If I start and idle the car, the smoke continues until I start driving.
After warming the car up, I have tried letting the car sit and idle for an extended period (over 5 minutes), and the smoke does not reappear.
Background;
- APR Stage 3 car, 17,700 miles
- On a particularly cold night this winter, the BFI clean catch did freeze up, and the car started blowing smoke. I removed it for winter and re-installed recently.
- Oil change with Rotella T6 and Mann filter 700 miles ago; the level when warm is at Max level
During the winter, it is hard to say whether this issue was happening. I noticed the issue some time after changing the oil, so I am wondering if the oil level may be slightly high. I changed the oil around the time the weather started consistently staying above 40F, though, so it could be coincidence.
I tried to come up with what the cause could be. What I was thinking (in order of easy to difficult);
- It's normal! The weather is warm, and the fuel trims have not adjusted yet, so it's running rich at start-up.
- It's normal! Typical 2.0T stuff.
- It's a catch can problem. Troubleshoot by removing it and seeing if the smoking stops.
---> Catch can is NOT full. I check it at least once per week.
- It's a turbo problem. The catch can freezing overpressurized the turbo lines and blew a seal
---> Although my experience has been that idling the car should bring the smoke back in this case, which I haven't gotten it to do.
- It's an engine problem.
My 2010 gti has a p30030 misfire cylinder 3 only on cold starts. Swapped plugs and coil packs, still only on 3. Took a look inside every cylinder and found that there was some oil in the cylinder only cylinder 3. So much blow by that it kind of collected in the cylinder? Carbon cleaning needed?
View 7 RepliesOnce the temperatures started to get into the 30's in the morning I noticed it. So a few months back but I just have been too lazy to dig deeper. It can best be described as an electrical, higher pitched, HUUMMmmmmm. It occurs every 1-3 seconds and lasts about 1 second when it is really cold but both those quicken once I start driving. It goes away within a minute or so of driving.
I am unable to locate the noise but it seems to be coming from the engine bay. It is different from the fuel pump clicking that others have noticed. To those that have VAGCOM it is somewhat similar to the noises from the engine bay when you do an autoscan... No CEL's or any other problems, I'm just concerned some electrical component is struggling.
I am experiencing issues with starting my '08 R32 when it is cold (winter, CO). Almost all of the time it sputters when starting cold and 25% of the time is stalls out and I have to restart. My local dealer told me it is related to the fuel tank valve recall?????
View 4 RepliesOk, to start off. I have a 2010 2.0T CCTA with 23k miles. I recently purchased a HPA Intake Manifold and installed it myself. I was told by HPA that they offer a tune specifically for their manifold. I however, purchase the Maestro suite by Eurodyne with the intention on getting it all tuned myself. I was able to code out the CEL for the flappers no problem. Now my only issue is the cold starts. During the cold start cycle I get misfires and air surge. I ran the fault reader and got the P0300-P0304 (Misfire faults). Obvious thing to check were plugs and packs. So I changed them. No change.
I read in a bunch of threads that these faults as well as air surge are a sign of the PCV Valve. I have a catch can kit on order so I will see if that wotrks. My guess is no. Another thing I think it could be is the N75 valve however, this issue only occurs during the cold start cycle. After the cold start cycle is done I have no issues what so ever. So I ruled out the N75 valve. If it was bad, then it would be bad regardless of how cold/warm the engine was. I have attached a video of the Cold Start.
So I'm trying to figure out the issue with my girls car, upon cold start sometimes a cloud of white smoke will come out of the tail pipe but not all the times, sometimes the oil level slowly drops but again not all the time, coolant doesn't look mixed but I'm not 100% sure. The car is the pzev 2.0.
View 2 RepliesSo I got a check engine light... did a scan and it said something about, "Cold Start Idle-Control System" and then it also has misfires on all of the cylinders and that it is running too lean.
I automatically went to check the intake, took it apart and the rubber coupler that connects the MAF sensor to the stage 2 pipe has a rip in it.
Now I'm freaking out thinking that maybe water... dust... dirt... has gotten into the engine.
I just purchased a 2012 CC-R 2.0T Manual. One issue I'm having is during a cold start, the engine makes a very loud noise that doesn't resemble a higher rpm that usually comes with a warm up stage. It sounds like something is grinding, followed by a vacuum/sucking noise. It lasts about 20sec and then idles normally. It only happens during cold start.
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