Golf IV R32 :: At Idle Clutch Rattle?
Sep 9, 2014
I have had a FX400 installed for about 4 months with a solid flyweel(stock weight). Question is at idle the clutch will rattle? When the Clutch pedal is pushed in the noise is gone. When you engage 1st and accelerate through 1st and 2nd it will rattle till you get into higher RPM's. In higher gears the noise is not present or at least unable to be heard. Is this normal operation for an aftermarket clutch and flywheel? This is not the normal chatter while slipping the clutch slightly to get the car moving Which is only present if you accidentally slip too much. Otherwise there is no chatter under normal driving.
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So when the car is idle i hear a weird rattle noise but when i push the clutch in the noise goes away.
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Specs :
-SB stage 3 feramic clutch with ss flywheel
-Motul trans fluid
What exactly is making this sound? What do I do to fix this because its driving me insane. Noise is constant with clutch out. Goes away when pushed in. Rattle when at low rpm. This clip is me lightly revving the engine. This is something clutch/flywheel related.
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2000 GTI all stock 220K miles
AEG motor
02J transmission
I just swapped clutch on the manual transmission of 2.0L 4 cylinder GTI.
Now every time I start the motor, I hear high pitched rattlesnake sound. It starts about 2-3 seconds after the motor starts.
The sound is coming from center of oil pan or downpipe area but can't tell how high on the motor's long block the source of sound is located at.
Check out the following youtube video. You can hear the sound at 9 seconds and it get really audible around 12 - 14 seconds and disappears around 21 seconds. I can hear this sound for the whole duration of motor running. The sound is not coming from the downpipe cover.
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I have this rattle from the tranny at idle in park. If I blip the throttle it goes away. I'm guessing a heat shield vibrating or something....I seem to recall my Corrado having a similar sound at idle.
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MK6 gti/golf ... I recently found a new *metal* type rattle coming from my rear seat on the passenger side no one seemed to have the fix for it online, so i decided to hunt for the rattle. found it and the fix is very easy. There are 3 possible repairs:
Repair 1 steps:
1) release the rear seat clips, 2 slide in clips in the front, just pull up, and then the 2 rear hooks by pushing the seat back and up motion to unhook.
2) fold the carpet over on the passenger side and you will find the fuel tank access lid
3) pull the grommet with the wires going through it out, i also wrapped the module sitting in the pocket of the lid with cloth tape/ felt tape
4) pull up on the plastic lid. (you might break a tap or two of the lid you can easily secure the lid down with sound deadening or dum dum)
5) first thing you see is a black and blue fuel line ( mine were touching each other making a rattle noise) and if u were to shake the lines they would rattle farther in against the body
6) take piece of rubber hose (i used a type of fuel line i had at work) cut one side of the rubber hose so u can fit it over the line.
7) slide the rubber piece over both lines and push it in as far as you need, untill the line does not hit the body or make a rattle type noise.
8) place one more piece where the two lines touch
9) re assemble the rear seats (seal the lid if you broke any clips. to prevent air noise)
Repair 2:
1) lift car up and locate the top camber bolt on the passenger side. there should be a white plastic evap line. i found mine touching and rattling.
2) cut a piece of rubber hose and slice one side so you can slip it over the line
Repair 3:
1) remove the 10 mm plastic nuts on the plastic cover on the passenger side to reveal the fuel lines and evap lines.
2) found my lines touching
3) place rubbing tubing on all three of the lines
4) re assemble plastic cover and road test car.
You can always add more rubber pieces if needed.
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I bought my 2014 GTI TUESDAY... In less than 24 hours, I noticed a knock when the car was at idle with the clutch not in. Went away once the clutch was in. The car has 248 miles on it.
I am thinking it is the throw out bearing, but vw service seems to think it is nothing and they want to just run some tests and keep it for the weeknd. In all reality, I will have the rental longer than I actually had my brand new car.
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Just replaced my OEM clutch and flywheel with SPEC ones and now I have a weird clicking noise during idle from it. Noise goes away when I press in clutch. My technician says that they are known for this noise. Is that true?
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having some issues with my idle, when im coasting and i push in the clutch it doesnt drop down to idle like it used to it sticks at about 2000 when its dropping, also at a stop light the idle will rise up and hunt from 1700 to 2300 or so. also if im in a parking lot in second gear or so the rpms will rise and accdelerate the vehicle.
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This morning when I started my car the RPMs were all over the place. The engine would rev to just below 2k and then drop, as it it were gonna die and right before it did, it would rev back up. Then, when I tried to move it, it would not accelerate and would hardly move and while coasting it dies if the clutch is depressed. The car does not die when idling (albeit a very rough idle) but it does when it is moving.
It flashed a check engine for a few seconds at one point but went away and has not come back on. I am running APR Stg 1 and a Carbonio intake. I switched from 93 octane mode to stock and nothing changed.
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I've searched but can't find what my problem is , ON idle when clutch is not depressed loud ticking noise , but when I push the clutch in it goes away . Also the ticking noise will get louder if I accelerate . ONLY Im first gear will I hear a loud grinding noise which means I have to quickly switch into second . Sound similar to something being dragged along a fence . Again the grinding sound I'm first will only happen if I'm giving it gas. Car has 325,000 km . Something with the transmission ?
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I Have a 2000 Passat 30 valve v6. I got a low oil pressure message figured I could make it to the store for some oil. Well I turn a corner and heard a valve rattle and the car started to idle rough. I was two quarts low but the noise and the rough idle still exist. In neutral the noise is not noticeable. Driving the noise is only noticeable at high RPM. The car doesn't smoke and otherwise runs fine.
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I recently purchased a 2006 SE with 4 cylinder/at combo. Engine is silky smooth, but I have a rattle that I think is coming from behind the driver instruments or against the fire wall where the brake m/c is. This only occurs when the engine is in gear, mainly with a/c on, & the idle drops to 600-700 rpm range. Like if I am sitting at a red light for more than a minute or two. If I put the tranny in neutral, cut the a/c off, or step on gas to raise the idle speed the rattle goes away. It's definitely rpm dependent.
It's not the a/c, because I have been able to repeat the issue with the a/c off. I did notice that on the back of the air filter box, there are several plastic components attached but what they do. Is there anyway to increase idle speed?
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'02 V6 30v with 73k.. engine noise sounds like rattle consistent with idle sounds like its coming from rear section of motor. i did search came up with a few probabilities but no resolutions just wondering if possible it could be oil pump because if i add oil then start up the noise disappears for a few mins then comes back, a few guys mentioned it could be camshaft tensioner.
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I have a strange rattle from the center vent. This happens only at idle when at light or stop sign. If I move shift to N the rattle stops. This happens after car is warmed up to operating temp. seems like maybe the idle is a bit low. I have 35k miles.
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My car is making this noise. Its only at idle. Doesn't affect fuel economy, just alarming.
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I have taken this problem to the dealer 3 times in the last 6 months and they claim not to notice any vibration or rattle. However, whenever I am at a stop sign or stop light with the car in Drive (automatic trans), a loud vibration sound can be heard and also felt in the steering column and the brake pedal. As soon as I press on the gas pedal again, the vibration goes away. The only other way to stop the noise is to place the car into Neutral. What might be causing this? Apparently, the noise is not audible outside of the vehicle since none of the techs at Toyota were able to hear a rattle or vibration.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Yaris four door. When I am stopped while in drive, the front left part of the vehicle rattles, sounds like it is around the front driver-side tire. If I change the car into Neutral, Reverse, or Park it will go away, but Drive or any of the lower gears will cause the rattle. I have only had the car for about 2 months and it has been doing this for a couple weeks.
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I have a 2004 GMC Envoy w/130K+ miles that just went in for maintenance. One of the things my mechanic was fixing for me was a rough idle, vibrating strongly enough to rattle the mirrors and glass. He replaced a very loose and failing water pump, and I will say that the idling is better, but it's still a little rough. The one problem was hiding another. Once I accelerate, no problems; nothing in park or neutral, only idling in drive. No CEL, no codes from the computer. My mechanic thought engine mounts might need replacement.
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The problem started when my clutch fluid began leaking a couple of months ago. I first noticed that it would take an unusual amount of effort to shift into gear and, after checking, found the clutch fluid completely gone and I filled it up immediately. Three weeks later, the fluid was gone again, so I took it in to a reputable mechanic, who said I needed my slave cylinder replaced. A week after replacement, I start to notice that my car increasingly had trouble "catching" into gear (my engine was accelerating, but not moving very fast; soft clutch). I thought maybe something went wrong with the slave cylinder repair and took it back to the same place, but the news came back that I needed a new clutch.
At 143,000 miles on the original clutch, I wasn't surprised it was time for a new one. Immediately after picking up my car with the new clutch--and by immediate, I mean right after I pulled out of the mechanic's parking lot--I noticed my car was driving horribly. The engine was idling extremely rough and it felt gritty when pressing the gas pedal during acceleration. I took it back to my mechanic the next morning to explain the problem, but they treated me like I was an idiot, didn't detect anything wrong with my car, and clearly didn't know what I was talking about even though I personally showed them my steering was shaking pretty badly while idling.
A few more days of the rough idle/gritty acceleration and I went back, but they just suggested getting my fuel injection system cleaned. I personally checked to make sure that the wires in my car were connected properly, as well as making sure the hose connecting to the air filter was on there correctly. Today on a whim, I took my car to Autozone to have them check the computer, even though I don't have a check engine light on, and sure enough the only code read was P0302--Cylinder 2 misfire.
My question is, what is the most likely cause of the cylinder 2 misfire (given my car's very recent history) and most importantly, could the mechanic have caused the problem I am experiencing? How should I handle this situation with them from here? I will no longer be using their services after I get this problem sorted out, as I feel like my car did not receive the best service.
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So I recently bought a 2010 Chevy Silverado LTZ with 31,000 miles (5.3l engine). After having the truck a few days, I have noticed a couple of problems ...
1) I have noticed there is a rough idle in the passenger seat while the truck is in drive. Once the truck is started and driven about 5 minutes, once you come to a complete stop in drive (ex. stop light) a rough idle over takes the truck. You can feel this idle a lot more in the passenger seat than in the driver seat. The RPM gauge also fluctuates during the rattle.
2) At night my the headlights flicker randomly, on and off very quickly.
3) In the morning when I start the truck and drive it a bit, I hear a rattle which sounds like it is coming from the front right of the truck. Bumps do not trigger this rattle, which usually only lasts a couple seconds. I usually hear the rattle between 1,000 and 1,200 rpms.
I have taken the truck into the shop 2 times to get these items fixed, and they said they cannot feel a rough idle.
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