I'm looking for alternate jacking points on our car. I know we've got the ghetto scissor jack that comes with the car and fits where the frame meets the chassis on that little lip, but I hate using it because it seems so unstable. I'm an auto-xer and so changing tires quickly and often is a necessity....Where I can do a whole side of the car at once?
View 12 RepliesSo I have had my coilovers in for a little less than 2 months now and i have been noticing that my front suspension is becoming loose at the mounting points under hood and needs to be re-tightened periodically. I will say that unfortunately i have to drive in and out of some steep inclines and funny angles where it puts the car into tripod mode regularly. I'm not rubbing anywhere (fenders or bumpers) upon entry or exit but I am very low and really getting every bit of movement out of each corner, lots of creaking and popping (all from front, rears are fine) until tightened then its quiet again, but it all comes back after 3 or 4 days. I haven't tried driving for a week without hitting the steep inclines so I'm not sure if this is even the reason. But its the only thing that i can think of.
View 10 RepliesI was jacking up front end the car started to roll back!, I had the parking brake on, so do I like bricks behind the back tires? or do i have to jack the back end up put the jacks under the car, then the front?
View 9 RepliesYesterday when I jacked up my car to switch to winter tires I hear this clicking sound, every stroke I turned the jack it will make that sound and it continues until my wheel is off the ground then it will stop. It only came from the rear 2 wheels and it happened when I jacked up the front and the back (more noticeable when jacking up the back).
I continue anyway, but today when I am driving down a parking lot (down hill turning) I hear this bumping sound from the back (sounds like bouncing basketball), it will go away if I stop but continues once I start driving again. I stop the car on flat ground and examined the tires and found nothing odd. Then when I restart the car the sound went away.
My Drivers side headlight points slightly higher than my passenger side headlight. Is this normal or do I need to adjust, and if so how do I adjust?
View 6 RepliesJust wondered if can use a floor jack to lift a vehicle but jacked directly on the torsion bar? Or let the vehicle rest on the torsion bar on a jackstand?
I have done this a few times with different vehicles and I guess didn't really think hard about it damaging anything, but was curious...
Any reason why I couldn't use my Curt front mount receiver hitch to lift the front wheels off the ground? It is bolted to the front spring hangers.
View 4 RepliesI cannot find specs for Points on my truck. My dad use to set them using a match book cover. Not that talented! Should condenser automatically be changed with points. 352 engine FYI
View 4 RepliesLifting a 2AZ-FE block to get it on an engine stand. Block is already on the ground. I need to confirm engine lift points for this block. ( block & cyl. head without trans-axle ). Couldn't find anything in any of the docs & refs that I have & searched. I would rather not lift it by the cyl. head lift points since the head bolts are a weak point on this block.
View 3 RepliesI have owned my 2008 Elantra for 8 months. I am the second owner and the car has 75K highway miles. I would like to know what the RPM is supposed to be at WOT (getting onto highway).
I have seen it go to almost 7K before shifting. That does not seem normal as redline is 6.5k The trans fluid was changed (by me) with the correct, recommended fluid at 60K. That did not change the characteristics of the high shift points at all. It seems to be just fine with normal city driving, very smooth. A great car overall and I don't want to screw it up as I drive on the highway every day and need WOT to get into 80 MPH traffic.
We are at a point where we need to install the tensioner for the chain, but the harness itself can't be moved enough. We may wind up removing the intake again to do so. Any easier methods?
Also under the intake at the back I noticed what appears like an open ended vacuum line after some small check valve... I don't recall it attaching to anything during tear down... Looking for vacuum diagram of the 2.4?
I have a 92 Volvo 240 (250k) with EGR (California car). I live in Alabama, no EGR needed here. There is check engine code that points to the EGR. It has been exhibiting all the symptoms of a defective EGR for quite a spell, check engine light just showing up recently.
Should I clean it, replace it ...or just take it off entirely. If I remove it, what needs to be done with that removal (such as ECU adjustment, replacement)?
I had the opportunity to test my mother's 2012 non-GT Elantra automatic. In auto mode when I floored it, it shifted from 1st to 2nd at around 6,000RPM so it shifted too soon. I didn't try it in manual mode.
I have a feeling in manual mode, if I have it set to '1' and I continue to floor it , it won't reduce power at some point (say 6100RPM), but rather will automatically shift up for me?
What are the RPM points that it'll shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd when flooring it both in manual and auto mode? I hope there is a way for it to not shift until it reaches it's peak HP at 6,500RPM, if not the 6,750RPM redline at each gear change.
I have an 07 tiptronic and in Drive "D" the shift points are getting too high for my liking. How do you reset what the transmission has "learned"?
View 4 RepliesWhat are the parts of the truck that should be greased? I'm about to do a front, transfer and rear differential fluid change..
View 2 RepliesI'm not familiar with my ford truck as yet. What are the happy shift points in rpm or speed? The old VW transporter manual actually listed it. The VW wanted to shift around 2500rpm. The Explorer Looks like
10mph into 2nd
20 mph into 3rd
35 mph into 4th
Its running 3000 rpm at 75mph in 4th
Have not figured out where to go to OD. Seems to have more ooomph at lower rpm than most cars I've had. Why isn't there a red line or light on the tach? What is the higher safe rpms you can use for hills for example? Am I close?
We are considering the purchase of a 1992 Volvo 960 sedan. We have two young daughters who both need to be using child seats. I cannot work out where the anchor points are for fitting the seats.
View 1 RepliesI started experiencing a delay in my shift points going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Then today I was driving and my automatic transmission wouldn't shift into third gear...the speedometer stuck at 20 mph...and it would rev all the way to red line, but wouldn't shift.
There is no "abnormal" noise coming from the transmission, or from the drive train. I suspect that this has something to do with the shift points and the computer rather than a mechanical problem with the transmission.
I would like to know what it could be before I take it into the dealer to get it diagnosed.
So we've recently surpassed 11,000 miles on our 2010 Wolfsburg. Overall we really love the Tiguan and aside from a few minor issues, it's been trouble free.
Over the past month I've been putting a lot of miles in doing some out of state travel and have been on some roads that lets say, have been less than smooth ... lots of potholes (filled and not), old pavement, etc and I'm starting to get, or maybe just notice some squeaks and rattles.
Most of them seem to be coming from trim points ... at least thats how it sounds, but the one that is really annoying me the most is the drivers side sun visor. Even when locked into position there's a little bit of play in the visor and it's a really annoying squeak.
I brought my car to one of those "quick change" places to get the oil and transmission fluid changed (the CVT is notorious for needing regular transmission fluid changes). Less than 2 weeks later, after several hundred miles of driving, the car was barely drivable. I brought it back. When they checked on their computer, it turned out they had put in regular transmission fluid instead of CVT fluid. They flushed and refilled transmission a bunch of times. I was there, watching, so I know the work was done - and the car worked fine for about 2 weeks. Then it started to act up again. I brought it back again, and they flushed it twice more, but now it's acting up again after only 2 days.
By "acting up," I mean shifting out of or into park, reverse, or drive is really, really stiff, and the car "lurches" at certain points when driving, both at low speed and at highway speeds. It's worst in stop & go traffic - attempting to stall when we come to a stop. If you try to manually shift into "L," it doesn't go, or rather it will go into low most of the way, but not quite far enough for the little light that says it's actually in low to light up. If the last two instances since the wrong fluid change are any indication, it won't be long before it fails to go into "L" no matter how hard I pull on the shifter, which also means it's going to start stalling again when I come to a stop.
They've been really, really nice about all this, and I've wanted to try to save the transmission - if for no other reason than to prevent the kid who made the mistake from being fired in this awful economy. It's a big name company, and I have a feeling they're not going to be very understanding of an honest mistake up at "corporate HQ." At the same time, however, I need my car to work.
Is there something else to try that could save the transmission? I know it can't be taken apart and rebuilt, because on this model car, the transmission core is completely sealed and is not serviceable. Or is it too far gone - should I ask for a new transmission?
Is this a regional thing? I changed my region. Could that be the reason? It doesn't seem to adjust as far down as it used to. Left side works fine and it adjusts in other directions as it always did.
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