All buttons on my key fob now cause the alarm to go off, and it won't deactivate. Even when the car starts up it still goes. Changed battery in my key- nothing. Reset battery- nothing. So what is the cause Battery? Key fob? Fuse? What is going on?
View 4 RepliesSo I had my hood open to check my oil, not a big deal for a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. When I shut the hood, the car decided to simultaneously lock, and now the horn/alarm is going off and the key fob won't unlock the car or disable the alarm. And the keys don't work in the door/trunk so I can't get inside. What I should do?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 GTI and lately I've been running into an issue with my steering wheel buttons and the RNS-315.
Issue #1: When I use the left button to toggle left/right between my radio presets (does it on both FM and Sirius), if I hit "right" it will go left. If I hit "left" it goes right...but only 3 times. On the fourth time it will jump to some random station. This happens all the time.
Issue #2: When using MDI connected to an ipod, the left button lets me switch through the songs just fine. but every once in a while (for example it has only happened once this month) it will freeze up and the left buttons will no longer function (e.g. let me toggle between songs). When this happens I switch to radio and the same deal, buttons are frozen. turning the radio off and back on again lets me switch once, then it's frozen again. If I turn the car off and on, it's back to normal.
Noticed yesterday my door lock buttons don't work on my door. They work fine from key fob.
View 9 RepliesI went with a group to a concert Friday night. I realized that I hadn't locked the car, and called back to have someone lock it for me. It would not lock by the buttons while the door was open. I thought this was unbelievable, so I tried it when I got back to the car, and it would not lock with either door.
View 9 RepliesHad a subwoofer installed, did the trunk rattle on the outside of the car?
View 11 RepliesMy radio is pretty much froze. I can turn it on but no sound and none of the buttons work. I was thinking I might need the code to reset it but I don't know where to find that.
View 1 RepliesSo the other day I went to the mechanic for him to see what code(s) were causing my CEL. He simply told me that there was an issue with the throttle body and it didn't know what position to be in; he cleared the codes, clean the throttle body and said if the light came on again I needed a new tb. The CEL came back on, but his diagnosis doesn't make sense to me.
From what I've researched if the throttle body had this issue the car would run like crap; however, it runs fine. Smooth idle, good throttle response, accelerates smoothly through the rev range, and I'm still getting decent fuel economy. Given that, it doesn't seem like it's the TPS either, and the tb was just cleaned so I'm confused. Could it actually be the throttle body, or is there some sensor that has just gone bad? The car is a 2000 Golf with an AEG engine & 5-speed box.
And here are a couple pic for clicks of a stock-ish car.....
Last week I posted about dropping my car off for service and the dealer finding that all four of my wheels were bent, causing vibration at highway speeds. So I spent a couple hundred dollars and had them fixed.
Car still vibrates at highway speeds...
I feel the vibration in my seat and throughout the car at about 60+mph. The faster I go, the more noticeable it is. I can even hear it.
Dropped off at the shop. Shop called me back stating that the vibrations are being caused by the two tires that need to be replaced.
I have a 2005 Jetta 1.8t and the thing will not start! The battery is fine, and has been recharged 100%. The fuel pump is pumping. It cranks all day, but just won't start. The only error code i'm getting is a P0411 which I understand is a leak in the vacuum system somewhere.
View 5 RepliesWhile braking, the car is revving up to about 1500 rpm and causing the vehicle to shudder and buck as if it wants to take off with no throttle input. The car is an automatic and this is the information relayed to me via my sister.
The car is a 2002 Jetta 2.0 automatic wagon.
I have a 337 with Injen cai. Well, I have since removed the cai due to the fact that rainwater/water during a car wash will run off the hood and onto the top of the inside of the drivers side fender (under hood) and eventually run down onto the filter itself, thus causing it to become water logged. This of course is not good. My question.. I've tried so many things to no avail.
View 7 RepliesLet's say I accelerate hard and hit some potholes and/or bumps in the road. this causes wheel spin/loss of traction. could anything be damaged if i keep accelerating past all the bumps while the traction control keeps trying to stop the wheels from spinning freely? I am talking about throttle to the floor in 2nd gear over bumps/small potholes
View 24 RepliesI just had the tie rods replaced and a front end alignment on my VW Golf. The tires that were on the front were moved to the back because of some wear on the inside edge. The tires currently on the front look brand new, but the car pulls to the right more than it did before I had any of the work done. The place where I got the work done told me I would need to replace the two tires with wear but they are still in mostly good condition. They are telling me now the pulling is because the tires on the rear have wear. Can wear on rear tires really cause my car to pull so significantly to the right? The tires are only two years old. I do not want to replace them yet. The car front wheel drive.
View 2 RepliesIve been having problems with my o2 sensor behind the left cat coming loose and causing a horrible rattle. Ive tightened the hell out of it a few times and it lasted around 4k miles each. recently i tightened it again and it comes loose within like 20 miles. I was gonna put lock tight on it but with the wiring going into the sensor i cant back it all the way out. I just said screw it and put some JB weld metal putty on it to hold and it lasted like 2 days and now its rattling again. I guess next step is find out how to take apart the sensor so i can un thread and lock tight it....electrical stuff scares me though.
View 3 RepliesDuring the tedious removal of the airbag from my mk4 multifunction steering wheel, I managed to rip the cruise control buttons wires out of their harness. I am honestly bewildered by the descriptions I've found online, and just want a photo of which colored wires should go in which holes XD.
View 2 RepliesI have a raspy exhaust leak sounding noise when I start my 2003 GTi 1.8t that cuts off just a few minutes after I start the car and a fellow owner told me he thought it was a vacuum pump that has rivets that fail and allow the case to separate and cause this noise. Where this pump is located? This former coworker of mine said he replaced the rivets with long slender screws and nuts after removing the rivets but I lost contact with him and don't know where this pump is located.
View 2 RepliesSo here is a fun one for you. Somewhere in my wiring I have a short that is causing my lights, blinkers and ignition to all activate. Example, I lock the car, the dash lights, brights, everything flash on and off with the horn... Should be a fun one, car runs and drives fun, however when I turn on the lights both blinkers and the bright come on the dash, weirdness.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 VW MK4 1.8t. It has 172,000 miles on it. Since i bought the car i have had to add coolant from time to time due to leaks from various plastic coolant parts so I replaced the crappy plastic connectors and flanges as they failed but it has never overheated till a couple days ago. It rose up to about 210'F but I didn't let it get to 260'F (aka the red zone).
While the temperature was up, the coolant was spraying everywhere causing white smoke under the hood. I stopped and looked under the hood and came up with the conclusion it was the coolant flange that holds the temp sensor since it was leaking coolant from the flange like a faucet hince the reason it caused it to overheat due to lost of pressure and no coolant in the system. So I replaced the part and gaskets then checked for other obvious leaks.
No leaks are shown nowhere else in the vehicle. So I added coolant to the car and let the cooling system do its magic as i left the heater on high. Let car idle with cap off and heater on for about 45 minutes. No signs of overheating. So I take the car for a spin and that's when the car starts heating up. I look under the hood and feel hoses and notice all are pressurized but top hose that leads to coolant flange is hot and the bottom hose connected to thermostat is cold.
I checked the return hose that leads up to the coolant reservoir to see if it's cycling and it appears it was. At low rpms the return hose had a steady flow and at high rpms it was flowing much rapidly. Which made me think it wasn't the water pump also this car with that many miles wouldn't have lasted with the plastic impellar this long if it wasn't already swapped out by previous owners. My question is what would cause it to still overheat? I forgot to note the fans did not turn on when the temperature was rising unless i turned the a/c on. But i still did a drive test with a/c on and it still overheated. I also did multiple burp cycles. I have invested alot of money in custom work and suck to leave it parked on the drive way.
Will overfilling transmission fluid cause hard shifts? I used ~4.3 quarts to refill. How much should I drain out? My check engine light came on.
Basically, I am having hard shifts from 2-3 and 3-4 in tip mode and auto. more tip mode tho.
-I did a complete solenoid change b/c of cold start problem with n92 solenoid.
Fixed the cold start shifting out of first.
-Did a trans fluid change with Mercon V ATF Fluid works fine.
-Just changed oil on 4th of July last week.
Yesterday my check engine light came on. It's been about 500 miles since the solenoid change/trans fluid change, and 100 miles since the oil change.
Now my Mk4 is having this obnoxious shifting. I am thinking I possibly added too much trans fluid into my system as I do not have the VAGcom tool.
I drained out (bone dry drain till no more dripping from check/drain plug), roughly 4 quarts. I added 4.3 give or take 0.1 quarts back into the car.
Now I'm worried because everywhere I'm reading says anywhere from as little as 2.1 quarts to 3.5 quarts.
Should I drain out 0.5 quarts (because I know theres over 4 in there now) to make it 3.5 quarts?
Or should I just redrain the whole thing and start by measure one quart at a time?
New 2015 Mercedes E350 wagon ..... The day after I took delivery, I tried to open the new wagon's doors (it has a keyless feature) and nothing happened. I tried again and still nothing happened. I then took the smartkey out of my pocket and tried to click open the locks and nothing happened. I then took the ancillary key out of the smartkey and unlocked the car manually. This set off the alarm which would only stop when I closed the door and relocked the car.
Also, the car would not start. It was like I had broken in to the car. A few minutes later, while waiting for roadside assistance to speak with me, I tried the door handle again and discovered that the doors would now open keylessly. I have driven the car several times since the incident (which occurred yesterday) and it has not repeated the problem. What caused the problem?Is this a one time glitch or am I in danger of being stranded somewhere?